What is most essential everyday lens (10D)

(soon that is).

How slow are these older lenses focusing? I'd buy those if Canon
upgraded them to USM and (???) rear element coating designed for
digital sensors (it looks like Canon is moving in this direction
with newly released lenses)
--
Mishkin
Since getting my 10D, I've used my EF 35 f2 very heavily, and it focuses quickly and without much noise. I'd imagine the 24 f2.8 is similar in that there can't be much focus travel. With the 35 f2 I certainly don't miss USM which I've got on other lenses such as the 85 f1.8.

--
Malcolm Stewart
Milton Keynes, UK
 
Thanks Imp! Great comments :)

Thank you for your time... Brian
You might think about primes. They tend to be a bit sharper and
cheaper but only hit one focal length.
True, primes are generally sharper than zooms, although it may not
be that visible in prints. Since you're just starting out, I'd
recommend a zoom because it's more flexible. After a while, you'll
develop a sense of which range you shoot most. Then you can
purchase prime lenses (if you do decide to get one). But for me, I
cannot live without the flexibility of a zoom lens. YMMV though :-)
The 28-135 IS lens is used be many and is a decent lens. It does
not open up much (slow lens), but it is a good place to start.
Yup. However I'd choose the 24-85 over the 28-135 due to its wider
end. Because of 10D's 1.6x crop factor, the extra 4mm on the wide
end is just far more valuable for me than the longer reach.
Avoid the "L" lenses until you KNOW you need one. They are very
expensive and a waste of money unless you need what they offer.
However, they are great lenses both mechanically and optically.
Very very very true. Do not get 'poisoned' when people say that you
should only buy an L lens. There are many consumer grade lenses out
there that are more than adequate for most people. Although L
lenses are superior, that does not mean that other lenses are not
good. The 24-85, 28-105 or 28-135 are very capable lenses for the
money. Each has its advantages (and disadvantages) against the L.
The 50mm 1.8 is a nice lens. It is plastic but a good optical
performer. It also very cheap and should exist n every budget kit.
I have this too. It's especially good for low light situations,
portraits and still life.
Then think Sigma and Tokina (sp)... They have some nice lenses and
cost about 30% less on average. Like Canon they have some lemons
as well.
There are very good Sigma lenses out there (I'm not very familiar
with Tokina) for a fraction of the cost of Canons. So do you
research first :-)

Lastly, my recommendation for you would be:
24-85/3.5-4.5
50/1.8 II

Good luck! Starting out in DSLR is very exciting! :-)
 
pattonbd wrote:

[snip]

Do a search on this forum: you'll turn up no end of stuff.

Speaking for myself only... the Canon 35/2. :-)
BTW, hello fellow Carolinian (though you be South LOL). I am at Carolina Beach, NC right now (from Hickory, NC though--just aobut an hour east of Asheville) and today hiked again in Carolina Beach State Park. Though my very favorite and most used lens is the Canon 24-70, today the lens I needed and used was the Sigma 15-30 for landscape. Oh, and I also used the 70-200 a lot for shooting herons (I found a wonderful place earlier in the week where they feed in the afternoon and only had the 28-135 and D30 with me then). So-- would say it depends upon what you need for what I also stuck my 50mm in a pouch with the 1.4x converter but never got either of them out today. For landscape--the Sigma 15-30 would be a very good reasonably priced WA. Maybe the Canon 50mm for family shots and see how that goes before adding any more. Others might say the Canon 28-135 with IS--I bought it as a carry along lens--primarily for my husband on the D30 but I find I'm much happier with it than I expected.

Diane
--
Diane B
http://www.pbase.com/picnic/galleries
B/W lover, but color is seducing me
 
I see this advice too often, usually from people doing mostly urban and indoor photography. For those doing landscape and nature work, zooms are a necessity of life. If I had to 'use my feet to zoom', to get the compositions that I'm afer, I'd often end up over a cliff, in the middle of impenatrable brush, in mid-air, or waist deep in a river. You can't just walk where ever you please out in the natural world to compose your shot, or carry half a dozen lenses to cover all FL's. Animal encounters usually don't leave you the luxury of suddenly changing lenses either. Everyone's needs will differ, depending on what they're trying to capture.
-David
Hey all :)

I am very new to photography and I am about to move up from my
consumer digital (Sony DCS-85) that I took some great pictures with
and go with a digital SLR of which I have narrowed down with all my
vast knowledge, lol ... to the Canon 10D :)

I need to know what the most essential lens is to start out with,
because I am on a limited budget and this is simply a hobie. I
love to take allot of outdoor photos of nature and I live in
Charleston, SC and make it up to Asheville for photos, etc. I also
like to take photos of friends and family and I am simply to new to
photography to make a solid buying decision on a $500-$1500 lens.
If you want to make your 10D an advanced point and shoot, by all
means get the 28-135IS like everyone surely suggests. But if you
want to dig right away deeper into what SLR photography really is,
choose

one from

35/2
50/1.8
50/1.4

and one from

100/2.8 macro
100/2
135/2 + 1.4 extender

Zooms are overrated. Use you feet to zoom.

--
Pekka
http://photography-on-the.net
 
with prime, there's one variable - distance to the subject, x. Both perspective P and framing F depend on the same variable x:

P(x)
F(x)

Thus, if you zoom with your feet and find perfect P(x), this x will automatically determine F and most likely, it's not what you want! Vice versa, if you find perfect F, P will most likely be not what you wanted.

With zoom, you have 2 variables, x and focal length f, so you have

P(x)
F(x, f)

Two variables make achieving perfect P and F simultaneously: you chose x to get perfect Perspective, then adjust f to get perfect Framing.

Oftentimes, timing is everything and a split-second zoom action from 28mm to 135mm gets you a shot you will otherwise miss while zooming with your feet or changing 28mm prime to 135mm prime.
Hey all :)

I am very new to photography and I am about to move up from my
consumer digital (Sony DCS-85) that I took some great pictures with
and go with a digital SLR of which I have narrowed down with all my
vast knowledge, lol ... to the Canon 10D :)

I need to know what the most essential lens is to start out with,
because I am on a limited budget and this is simply a hobie. I
love to take allot of outdoor photos of nature and I live in
Charleston, SC and make it up to Asheville for photos, etc. I also
like to take photos of friends and family and I am simply to new to
photography to make a solid buying decision on a $500-$1500 lens.
If you want to make your 10D an advanced point and shoot, by all
means get the 28-135IS like everyone surely suggests. But if you
want to dig right away deeper into what SLR photography really is,
choose

one from

35/2
50/1.8
50/1.4

and one from

100/2.8 macro
100/2
135/2 + 1.4 extender

Zooms are overrated. Use you feet to zoom.

--
Pekka
http://photography-on-the.net
--
Mishkin
 
I'm holding out for the Sigma 80-400 OS (if it's not available in the U.S. in the next 3 weeks, I'll go for the 50-500), and still haven't decided on a 'normal zoom' between the Canon 28-135IS and the Tamron 24-135, or if the new sigma 24-135 ever comes out. For now, still using the Sigma 15-30, 70-300APO, and Canon 50 1.8.

If I come across a grizzly bear this summer (which I'm hoping to do), I know which way I'd be 'zooming with my feet' if I only had on a prime!!!
-David
Icypeak ,

What lens did you end up buying?
--
David



http://www.fototime.com/ftweb/bin/ft.dll/home?userid= {F351C88E-FEF7-4892-9F30-9FD2DDD1593C}&tio=0tio=0&st=he&GUID={0AB0EAE9-1AF7-41AE-966B-588570432D96}&sent=stored
 
Mishkin, the math class was tough this late at night but i do indeed agree.
P(x)
F(x)

Thus, if you zoom with your feet and find perfect P(x), this x will
automatically determine F and most likely, it's not what you want!
Vice versa, if you find perfect F, P will most likely be not what
you wanted.

With zoom, you have 2 variables, x and focal length f, so you have

P(x)
F(x, f)

Two variables make achieving perfect P and F simultaneously: you
chose x to get perfect Perspective, then adjust f to get perfect
Framing.

Oftentimes, timing is everything and a split-second zoom action
from 28mm to 135mm gets you a shot you will otherwise miss while
zooming with your feet or changing 28mm prime to 135mm prime.
Hey all :)

I am very new to photography and I am about to move up from my
consumer digital (Sony DCS-85) that I took some great pictures with
and go with a digital SLR of which I have narrowed down with all my
vast knowledge, lol ... to the Canon 10D :)

I need to know what the most essential lens is to start out with,
because I am on a limited budget and this is simply a hobie. I
love to take allot of outdoor photos of nature and I live in
Charleston, SC and make it up to Asheville for photos, etc. I also
like to take photos of friends and family and I am simply to new to
photography to make a solid buying decision on a $500-$1500 lens.
If you want to make your 10D an advanced point and shoot, by all
means get the 28-135IS like everyone surely suggests. But if you
want to dig right away deeper into what SLR photography really is,
choose

one from

35/2
50/1.8
50/1.4

and one from

100/2.8 macro
100/2
135/2 + 1.4 extender

Zooms are overrated. Use you feet to zoom.

--
Pekka
http://photography-on-the.net
--
Mishkin
 
I sold a 20 year old collection of Canon FD equipment (5 "L" lenses) to go digital. I thought long and hard about where to put my $$$ in digital and do it right. I bought a 10D and two lenses.

24-70 2.8L
70-200 2.8L IS

After 3 weeks and over 1600 shots I know I made the right choice.

--
Gary Coombs
My Profile contains my Equipment List
http://GaryCoombs.com/10D/New
http://GaryCoombs.com/10D/Test
 
As far as zooms go, I have had the Canon 28-135 IS, 24-85 Canon, 75-300IS Canon, Sigma 17-35, and the Sigma 70-200.

One thing about most consumer zoom lenses is that when you carry these lenses around, they tend to extend by themselves to their longest zoom position. Also, the build quality of the Canon consumer lenses is much worse than the Canon L's and the Sigmas are worse than the Canon consumer lenses.

I would suggest you start with the Canon 17-40 f4/L at ~$785 and maybe the 50mm f1.8. After using this zoom, you will not ever want a consumer zoom lens again (or at least this has been my experience). I just wish that when I started, I would have gone with L lenses first.

Hope this helps,
Chris
Avoid the "L" lenses until you KNOW you need one. They are very
expensive and a waste of money unless you need what they offer.
However, they are great lenses both mechanically and optically.
Very very very true.
 
You might think about primes. They tend to be a bit sharper and
cheaper but only hit one focal length.

The 28-135 IS lens is used be many and is a decent lens. It does
not open up much (slow lens), but it is a good place to start.

Avoid the "L" lenses until you KNOW you need one. They are very
expensive and a waste of money unless you need what they offer.
However, they are great lenses both mechanically and optically.

The 50mm 1.8 is a nice lens. It is plastic but a good optical
performer. It also very cheap and should exist n every budget kit.

Then think Sigma and Tokina (sp)... They have some nice lenses and
cost about 30% less on average. Like Canon they have some lemons
as well.

BTW: My everyday lens is an 85mm f1.8.

Steven

--
---
New and Updated!!!
http://www.pbase.com/snoyes/desertmuseum
http://www.pbase.com/snoyes/desertbotanicalgardens
I also would encourage starting with primes. I am not a professional photographer, but I feel that there is an aweful lot to learn about perspective and framing that can be best learned with a prime lense. It takes a lot of walking around and viewing the world through the lense to see how different angles affect the outcome. Once you know exactly what the (say 50mm) lense is capable of, then use a WA prime or telephoto and get used to the new perspctive it offers. I think you will learn a lot more and become a better photographer.

My $0.02
Dave

http://www.pbase.com/dgsmithmd
10D, S30
Sigma 15-30
Canon 24-85
Sigma 28, 1.8
Canon 50, 1.8
Canon 85 1.8
Canon 70-200 2.8L
Sigma 50-500
 
(soon that is).
I keep sending chocolates and bottles of wine to the Canon R/D department in the hope that they'll let me in on their secrets, but they just mumble about NDA's and losing their jobs... [sigh]
How slow are these older lenses focusing? I'd buy those if Canon
upgraded them to USM and (???) rear element coating designed for
digital sensors (it looks like Canon is moving in this direction
with newly released lenses)
I'm afraid I'll have to be a bit vague about this, as I don't really have that much experience with really fast-focusing lenses. However, I'd say that the 35/2 focuses more than fast enough for normal shooting, including quick-changing situationals (I've pointed the lens at my rather lively terrier, and it's had no trouble locking on and tracking fast enough to let me grab the frame when I want to). It sounds like a disgruntled wasp in a matchbox, though.

As to the rear element coating... the lens performs so well optically as it is, that I don't think a different coating could make much of a difference. A 7 to 9-blade iris would be a nice improvement, though.

Petteri
--
Portfolio: [ http://www.seittipaja.fi/index/ ]
Photo lessons: [ http://www.seittipaja.fi/lessons/ ]
 
Thanks Malcolm :)
(soon that is).

How slow are these older lenses focusing? I'd buy those if Canon
upgraded them to USM and (???) rear element coating designed for
digital sensors (it looks like Canon is moving in this direction
with newly released lenses)
--
Mishkin
Since getting my 10D, I've used my EF 35 f2 very heavily, and it
focuses quickly and without much noise. I'd imagine the 24 f2.8 is
similar in that there can't be much focus travel. With the 35 f2 I
certainly don't miss USM which I've got on other lenses such as the
85 f1.8.

--
Malcolm Stewart
Milton Keynes, UK
 
Thanks Chris!

My friends call me "mister overkill" so why not one more time? lol :) I just wish I had the extra $$ to go out and try a few lenses at once, but I will learn one and jump on when I have some extra money to invest in a lens
-Brian
One thing about most consumer zoom lenses is that when you carry
these lenses around, they tend to extend by themselves to their
longest zoom position. Also, the build quality of the Canon
consumer lenses is much worse than the Canon L's and the Sigmas are
worse than the Canon consumer lenses.

I would suggest you start with the Canon 17-40 f4/L at ~$785 and
maybe the 50mm f1.8. After using this zoom, you will not ever want
a consumer zoom lens again (or at least this has been my
experience). I just wish that when I started, I would have gone
with L lenses first.

Hope this helps,
Chris
Avoid the "L" lenses until you KNOW you need one. They are very
expensive and a waste of money unless you need what they offer.
However, they are great lenses both mechanically and optically.
Very very very true.
 
Thanks Dave...
nice moon photo by the way :) That looks very cool enlarged
  • Brian
You might think about primes. They tend to be a bit sharper and
cheaper but only hit one focal length.

The 28-135 IS lens is used be many and is a decent lens. It does
not open up much (slow lens), but it is a good place to start.

Avoid the "L" lenses until you KNOW you need one. They are very
expensive and a waste of money unless you need what they offer.
However, they are great lenses both mechanically and optically.

The 50mm 1.8 is a nice lens. It is plastic but a good optical
performer. It also very cheap and should exist n every budget kit.

Then think Sigma and Tokina (sp)... They have some nice lenses and
cost about 30% less on average. Like Canon they have some lemons
as well.

BTW: My everyday lens is an 85mm f1.8.

Steven

--
---
New and Updated!!!
http://www.pbase.com/snoyes/desertmuseum
http://www.pbase.com/snoyes/desertbotanicalgardens
I also would encourage starting with primes. I am not a
professional photographer, but I feel that there is an aweful lot
to learn about perspective and framing that can be best learned
with a prime lense. It takes a lot of walking around and viewing
the world through the lense to see how different angles affect the
outcome. Once you know exactly what the (say 50mm) lense is
capable of, then use a WA prime or telephoto and get used to the
new perspctive it offers. I think you will learn a lot more and
become a better photographer.

My $0.02
Dave

http://www.pbase.com/dgsmithmd
10D, S30
Sigma 15-30
Canon 24-85
Sigma 28, 1.8
Canon 50, 1.8
Canon 85 1.8
Canon 70-200 2.8L
Sigma 50-500
 
Thanks Diane :)

Love your photo page! You seem to take allot of pics that I enjoy taking. I have some great pics I have taken with my sony dcs-85 (4.2mp) but I am excited to move up to a dig slr body and utilize better lenses. Thanks for the feedback... and have fun hiking! I biked up Mt. Mitchel with my camera, lol a few weeks back and it was a bit heavy fo 40 miles straight up!

-Brian
pattonbd wrote:

[snip]

Do a search on this forum: you'll turn up no end of stuff.

Speaking for myself only... the Canon 35/2. :-)
BTW, hello fellow Carolinian (though you be South LOL). I am at
Carolina Beach, NC right now (from Hickory, NC though--just aobut
an hour east of Asheville) and today hiked again in Carolina Beach
State Park. Though my very favorite and most used lens is the
Canon 24-70, today the lens I needed and used was the Sigma 15-30
for landscape. Oh, and I also used the 70-200 a lot for shooting
herons (I found a wonderful place earlier in the week where they
feed in the afternoon and only had the 28-135 and D30 with me
then). So-- would say it depends upon what you need for what I
also stuck my 50mm in a pouch with the 1.4x converter but never got
either of them out today. For landscape--the Sigma 15-30 would be
a very good reasonably priced WA. Maybe the Canon 50mm for family
shots and see how that goes before adding any more. Others might
say the Canon 28-135 with IS--I bought it as a carry along
lens--primarily for my husband on the D30 but I find I'm much
happier with it than I expected.

Diane
--
Diane B
http://www.pbase.com/picnic/galleries
B/W lover, but color is seducing me
 
As many others have said, the 28-135 IS and the 50 1.8 (or 1.4 if you want to spend a bit more) are THE starter lenses IMHO.

The 28-135 gives you great range, and is a perfect travel/"dont know what im going to shoot" lens - plus you get IS.

The 50mm gives you an appreciation for sharpness and speed.

Likely you'll want something wider next, but use these 2 for a while and you'll know much better where you want to go.

Save some of your money until you know!

-b
I'd recommend the Canon 28-135 IS and the Canon 50mm F1.8 for
indoors, low light. You can get both of these for around $500
total. You can build a lens collection from there but this will get
you going with some decent glass for non-pro uses.

--
Doug Walker
Check my profile for equipment list.
 

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