the images to match one another i.e. first by upsizing the 5D images to match the 5D3 dimensions, and then downsizing the 5D3 images to match the 5D dimensions? Or re-sized both to one particular size?
You also have to make sure that all settings are equalized. Shooting RAW and setting everything to zero in your editing software except sharpening, set sharpening to 25% in ACR/LR or level 3 in DPP as capture sharpening, picking exactly the same WB e.g. Daylight if landscape, set the camera profile in ACR/LR/DPP to neutral or faithful.
You've got a unique opportunity here to show yourself (and maybe others) how the increase in MPs of the 5D3 over the 5D not only captures more detail, but how much detail is retained when downsizing to X dimensions (there's always a point of diminishing return where there is no perceptual return).
1.) Pick a scene with a huge amount of detail, a landscape comes to mind. Shoot with the sun at your back. This is a test. You'll want even lighting. A huge light source coming in from one side will complicate your analysis. However, shadows can be a good thing to have to analyze i.e early morning or late evening shadows. Choose a day with mainly cloudless skies and light or no wind. You do not want your lighting to change dramatically or your detail smeared with wind motion.
2.) Set up using tripod, MLU, cable release (or timer). Level the cameras on both axis. Use center point of the AF system and the same focus point in the scene. Do not disturb the tripod or ballhead when removing the first camera. Use the same lens for both cameras.
3.) For the best results in analysis, having the same aperture, shutter speed and ISO is suggested. Setting ISO is easy: ISO 100. Using ISO 100 is for obtaining the max IQ of the system, you can change this later for a high ISO test. Setting aperture is easy too. I suggest running through all of the full stops of the given lens (btw, use your sharpest lens) e.g. f2.8, f4, f5.6, f8, f11, f16, f22. Testing all apertures will show the effects of encroaching diffraction and can be very instructive in determining the sharpest f-stop for a given camera/lens combo. This leaves shutter speed which will be affected by the other parameters. To ensure that you get matching shutter speeds, bracket every shot. You'll only get 3 images with the 5D but I suggest a 7 image bracket spread with 1/3 stop increments. I suggest a 2/3 stop increment for the 5D.
3a.) You'll have to run through the sequences fairly fast because the light changes quickly in early morning or late evening. It may behoove you to practice the sequences before actually getting out there.
4.) Use RAW. Refer back to paragraph 2 for equalizing the files. In comparing the files, be sure to re-size them as mentioned at the outset.
5,) Find the small but important details and see what happens to them in these various re-sizings.
canon person wrote:
When I look at images taken with my 5D in comparison to those with my 5D3, many of the 5D images look markedly sharper. I sent in the 5D3 and all lenses to Canon and was told that "no micro focus was needed with them. While the 5D3 images are much larger, they seem to lack the crisp look as gotten from the 5D.
Any c/c are appreciated. Thank you.
Canon Person
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Rick Knepper, photographer, non-professional, shooting for pleasure, check my profile for gear list and philosophy. TJ said, "Every generation needs a new revolution".
