Why do we need Wide Angle Lens

p2c

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Pardon me for my ignorance but I just have to ask this.

I have noticed from the examples posted by some members here using the WA lens.

When pictures taken with full W using WA lens, we can see clearly the pictures are blocked by the lens itself.

I understand the purpose of a WA lens is used when we have space constraint situation and we would like to capture a wider area in picture.

Questions:

1. Is it normal to have the pictures blocked by the WA lens when at full W?

2. In order not to have the picture blocked by the WA lens, we can zoom in until the WA lens no longer blocking the scene, BUT then the framed area we're capturing is now back to the same area when we use full W without the WA lens. Then why are we using the WA lens?

I know I am missing something, could someone please help to explain how to take benefits of the WA lens without blocking the scenes.

Or that's just the way WA lens function?

I understand Tele lens has the same effect at full W, too. But that's okay as it's purpose to take Tele shots and when zoom in full T, the effect is gone. We are supposed to take picture with WA lens at full W to take full benefits of the lens, right?

HELP..

--
ppc
http://www.imagestation.com/album/?id=4290690689
 
If you mean "vignetting" (there are areas of the corners which are covered) by "blocking," then actually, not all WA lens do that/ I have a F717 and the HG0758 lens and there is no vignetting at full WA or with zoom.
Pardon me for my ignorance but I just have to ask this.

I have noticed from the examples posted by some members here using
the WA lens.

When pictures taken with full W using WA lens, we can see clearly
the pictures are blocked by the lens itself.

I understand the purpose of a WA lens is used when we have space
constraint situation and we would like to capture a wider area in
picture.

Questions:

1. Is it normal to have the pictures blocked by the WA lens when
at full W?
2. In order not to have the picture blocked by the WA lens, we can
zoom in until the WA lens no longer blocking the scene, BUT then
the framed area we're capturing is now back to the same area when
we use full W without the WA lens. Then why are we using the WA
lens?

I know I am missing something, could someone please help to explain
how to take benefits of the WA lens without blocking the scenes.

Or that's just the way WA lens function?

I understand Tele lens has the same effect at full W, too. But
that's okay as it's purpose to take Tele shots and when zoom in
full T, the effect is gone. We are supposed to take picture with
WA lens at full W to take full benefits of the lens, right?

HELP..

--
ppc
http://www.imagestation.com/album/?id=4290690689
--
-----
Visit SonyCams, your Sony Digital Imaging Resource
http://www.sonycams.com
 
Yes, I think that's the term - "vignetting". I wasn't sure about the definition so I thought I better use the layman term...

So not all WA lens has that effect, or should I say defect?

I ever asked the vignetting question before and I was given the answer it was a norm.

So why do some have that vignetting effect?
Pardon me for my ignorance but I just have to ask this.

I have noticed from the examples posted by some members here using
the WA lens.

When pictures taken with full W using WA lens, we can see clearly
the pictures are blocked by the lens itself.

I understand the purpose of a WA lens is used when we have space
constraint situation and we would like to capture a wider area in
picture.

Questions:

1. Is it normal to have the pictures blocked by the WA lens when
at full W?
2. In order not to have the picture blocked by the WA lens, we can
zoom in until the WA lens no longer blocking the scene, BUT then
the framed area we're capturing is now back to the same area when
we use full W without the WA lens. Then why are we using the WA
lens?

I know I am missing something, could someone please help to explain
how to take benefits of the WA lens without blocking the scenes.

Or that's just the way WA lens function?

I understand Tele lens has the same effect at full W, too. But
that's okay as it's purpose to take Tele shots and when zoom in
full T, the effect is gone. We are supposed to take picture with
WA lens at full W to take full benefits of the lens, right?

HELP..

--
ppc
http://www.imagestation.com/album/?id=4290690689
--
-----
Visit SonyCams, your Sony Digital Imaging Resource
http://www.sonycams.com
--
ppc
http://www.imagestation.com/album/?id=4290690689
 
I have the Sony Wide Angle lens (VCL-HGD0758) and there is no vignetting. In fact, the lens is quite sharp and clear at all zoom settings.

What you will find common, is if using a telephoto lens at full wide angle settings, you will see vignetting with almost any telephoto. With the Sony Telephoto (VCL-HGD1758) you get vignetting until past half optical zoom.

I have examples up of both lenses at my pbase acct.:

http://www.pbase.com/dwagler/lens_comp

They are night shots, so the vignetting is not so obvious, but you can see it if you look (on the telephoto) there is none, as I said, with the Wide Angle lens.

Dale
--
Dale K. Wagler ~ Santa Monica, California
http://www.pbase.com/dwagler
 
Thanks a millions for all your helps rendered in my other threads, too.
I have the Sony Wide Angle lens (VCL-HGD0758) and there is no
vignetting. In fact, the lens is quite sharp and clear at all zoom
settings.

What you will find common, is if using a telephoto lens at full
wide angle settings, you will see vignetting with almost any
telephoto. With the Sony Telephoto (VCL-HGD1758) you get
vignetting until past half optical zoom.

I have examples up of both lenses at my pbase acct.:

http://www.pbase.com/dwagler/lens_comp

They are night shots, so the vignetting is not so obvious, but you
can see it if you look (on the telephoto) there is none, as I said,
with the Wide Angle lens.

Dale
--
Dale K. Wagler ~ Santa Monica, California
http://www.pbase.com/dwagler
--
ppc
http://www.imagestation.com/album/?id=4290690689
 
The only time I have ever got vignetting, is when I use the UV filter, Polariser, and then Sony WA lens, however this is not a problem, as I just take off the UV Filter temporarily.

Under all other conditions the WA lens is excellent, especially for internal room shots.

2 examples for you ..........



Very Sharp tooo......... (with polariser)



hope this helps
 
I just got the 0758 for my 707 and am concerned about the weight. do you leave the lens on while carrying the camera by the strap or do you hold the camera body and lens at all times. I worry about the WA pulling away from the threads to the body due to the weight.

max
I have the Sony Wide Angle lens (VCL-HGD0758) and there is no
vignetting. In fact, the lens is quite sharp and clear at all zoom
settings.

What you will find common, is if using a telephoto lens at full
wide angle settings, you will see vignetting with almost any
telephoto. With the Sony Telephoto (VCL-HGD1758) you get
vignetting until past half optical zoom.

I have examples up of both lenses at my pbase acct.:

http://www.pbase.com/dwagler/lens_comp

They are night shots, so the vignetting is not so obvious, but you
can see it if you look (on the telephoto) there is none, as I said,
with the Wide Angle lens.

Dale
--
Dale K. Wagler ~ Santa Monica, California
http://www.pbase.com/dwagler
 
Hi Matthew,

I did notice that when I attached the wa monday when I got it. it took so many turns to thread it I was afraid I was stripping the threads off, it seemed to go twice as deep/revolutions as normal filters
thanks for the reply
max
For whatever reason, the 0758 wide angle lens seems to take FOREVER
to thread on. I think this means a higher-quality lens thread with
a tighter spiral.

It seems to be on very securely when I attach it.

--
my favorite work: http://www.pbase.com/sdaconsulting/favorite_work
 
WOW... [simply wordless!!!]

I was thinking of getting the Sony WA lens but hesitated because firstly due to its cost and secondly of its weight. Also want to figure out if I do really need it.

Scott, do you carry the WA lens with you most of the time? Or only when you know specifically that you do need it?

Thanks and regards.
The only time I have ever got vignetting, is when I use the UV
filter, Polariser, and then Sony WA lens, however this is not a
problem, as I just take off the UV Filter temporarily.

Under all other conditions the WA lens is excellent, especially for
internal room shots.

2 examples for you ..........



Very Sharp tooo......... (with polariser)



hope this helps
--
ppc
http://www.imagestation.com/album/?id=4290690689
 
Haha... I wanted to say [simply speechless]... instead..
I was thinking of getting the Sony WA lens but hesitated because
firstly due to its cost and secondly of its weight. Also want to
figure out if I do really need it.

Scott, do you carry the WA lens with you most of the time? Or only
when you know specifically that you do need it?

Thanks and regards.
The only time I have ever got vignetting, is when I use the UV
filter, Polariser, and then Sony WA lens, however this is not a
problem, as I just take off the UV Filter temporarily.

Under all other conditions the WA lens is excellent, especially for
internal room shots.

2 examples for you ..........



Very Sharp tooo......... (with polariser)



hope this helps
--
ppc
http://www.imagestation.com/album/?id=4290690689
--
ppc
http://www.imagestation.com/album/?id=4290690689
 
The only time I have ever got vignetting, is when I use the UV
filter, Polariser, and then Sony WA lens, however this is not a
problem, as I just take off the UV Filter temporarily.

Under all other conditions the WA lens is excellent, especially for
internal room shots.

2 examples for you ..........



Very Sharp tooo......... (with polariser)



hope this helps
--
  • David - Sony S85, MHG07a (wide angle adaptor), VR 360's, traditional pano's, IR's, Hoya R72, PSP-7, PanoTools...
 
1. Is it normal to have the pictures blocked by the WA lens when
at full W?
No, not at all normal.
2. In order not to have the picture blocked by the WA lens, we can
zoom in until the WA lens no longer blocking the scene, BUT then
the framed area we're capturing is now back to the same area when
we use full W without the WA lens. Then why are we using the WA
lens?
To get the most out of a scene compositionally. For architectural shots, its the ONLY way.

I think you may have viewed a few too many pictures that, while composition might have been good, technically they were suffering from light fall off from the edges (VERY wide lenses exhibit that, even expensive ones), or someone stacked too many filters and either didn't crop the result, or though it wouldn't be noticed. Ooops!

If the lens is a good match (and many of them are NOT), then in normal use, 'wide' camera setting with WA conversion lens attached, then there shouldn't be visible problems.

The wider you go, though, the greater the chance of light fall-off at edges, or the dreaded chromatic abberations will appear round the edges. For consumer digicams, much of the above can not be avoided. Just a $$$ vs. design thing.

I've never had any blocking problems myself with my MHG07a and my S85.

This was done with those...



...and a few software tweaks here and there. ;-) Original photo is 16MB, so I spared ya'all from that heavy download.

Don't be afraid of the WA! Its a fun world.
  • David
--
  • David - Sony S85, MHG07a (wide angle adaptor), VR 360's, traditional pano's, IR's, Hoya R72, PSP-7, PanoTools...
 
Hi David,

Just wonder what is the different between VCL-MHG07A and VCL-HGD0758? Noticed both of them have the 0.7 factor in magnification but the prices differ a lot, like almost double. So why do one choose 07A over 0758 and vice versa?

Thanks.
1. Is it normal to have the pictures blocked by the WA lens when
at full W?
No, not at all normal.
2. In order not to have the picture blocked by the WA lens, we can
zoom in until the WA lens no longer blocking the scene, BUT then
the framed area we're capturing is now back to the same area when
we use full W without the WA lens. Then why are we using the WA
lens?
To get the most out of a scene compositionally. For architectural
shots, its the ONLY way.

I think you may have viewed a few too many pictures that, while
composition might have been good, technically they were suffering
from light fall off from the edges (VERY wide lenses exhibit that,
even expensive ones), or someone stacked too many filters and
either didn't crop the result, or though it wouldn't be noticed.
Ooops!

If the lens is a good match (and many of them are NOT), then in
normal use, 'wide' camera setting with WA conversion lens attached,
then there shouldn't be visible problems.

The wider you go, though, the greater the chance of light fall-off
at edges, or the dreaded chromatic abberations will appear round
the edges. For consumer digicams, much of the above can not be
avoided. Just a $$$ vs. design thing.

I've never had any blocking problems myself with my MHG07a and my S85.

This was done with those...



...and a few software tweaks here and there. ;-) Original photo is
16MB, so I spared ya'all from that heavy download.

Don't be afraid of the WA! Its a fun world.
  • David
--
  • David - Sony S85, MHG07a (wide angle adaptor), VR 360's,
traditional pano's, IR's, Hoya R72, PSP-7, PanoTools...

--
ppc
http://www.imagestation.com/album/?id=4290690689
 
Pride perhaps?

There wasn't an upper end Sony lens when I bought the MHG07a. I asked the photo store to transfer some other brand lenses over to help me make a choice. They didn't fit, but looked real nice, and had good reviews (for the respective cameras they were made to go with).

The MHG07a looked like a good fit, and after examining the results at home first, I went back and got it.

If I had a choice (and I didn't), I would have looked at it this way...

My camera's highest pixel resolution is 2272 x 1704. If I could have spent twice the dollars (I really couldn't), would the higher resolution capabilities of the better lens even be visible with 2272 x 1704? My opinion is that it would not be wise to go higher.

Now, if you can use that better lens in the future on a camera that can deliver about 4000 x 3000 pixels (or even more?) then it may be a wise purchase.

My guess is that the better glass is made with higher tolerances than current consumer cams can even resolve.

Your mileage may vary. In my case, the MHG07a would live, and then die with my S85. I couldn't ever see it working with a DSLR in the future.

If I had to do it over again, I would choose the same lens.
  • David
ppc wrote:
Hi David,

Just wonder what is the different between VCL-MHG07A and
VCL-HGD0758? Noticed both of them have the 0.7 factor in
magnification but the prices differ a lot, like almost double. So
why do one choose 07A over 0758 and vice versa?

Thanks.
1. Is it normal to have the pictures blocked by the WA lens when
at full W?
No, not at all normal.
2. In order not to have the picture blocked by the WA lens, we can
zoom in until the WA lens no longer blocking the scene, BUT then
the framed area we're capturing is now back to the same area when
we use full W without the WA lens. Then why are we using the WA
lens?
To get the most out of a scene compositionally. For architectural
shots, its the ONLY way.

I think you may have viewed a few too many pictures that, while
composition might have been good, technically they were suffering
from light fall off from the edges (VERY wide lenses exhibit that,
even expensive ones), or someone stacked too many filters and
either didn't crop the result, or though it wouldn't be noticed.
Ooops!

If the lens is a good match (and many of them are NOT), then in
normal use, 'wide' camera setting with WA conversion lens attached,
then there shouldn't be visible problems.

The wider you go, though, the greater the chance of light fall-off
at edges, or the dreaded chromatic abberations will appear round
the edges. For consumer digicams, much of the above can not be
avoided. Just a $$$ vs. design thing.

I've never had any blocking problems myself with my MHG07a and my S85.

This was done with those...



...and a few software tweaks here and there. ;-) Original photo is
16MB, so I spared ya'all from that heavy download.

Don't be afraid of the WA! Its a fun world.
  • David
--
ppc
http://www.imagestation.com/album/?id=4290690689
--
  • David - Sony S85, MHG07a (wide angle adaptor), VR 360's, traditional pano's, IR's, Hoya R72, PSP-7, PanoTools...
 
I just got the 0758 for my 707 and am concerned about the weight.
do you leave the lens on while carrying the camera by the strap or
do you hold the camera body and lens at all times. I worry about
the WA pulling away from the threads to the body due to the weight.

max
Sorry, I saw this thread late. I tend to support the lens when I carry the camera (hanging) just because I don't trust life! lol I'm not concerned about the threads as there are far more than 3 revolutions, which I'm told by my engineer Dad, is as strong a mechanical grip as you need. The extra turns are, in essence overkill, but do prevent it from dropping, or putting undue stress on the threads should it begin to work loose.

I could be wrong about all this of course, but I have yet to have a problem. THe bigger concern for me, would be the strap coming loose, and that is also unlikely (I have a quick release Tamrac strap).

Cheers,
Dale
--
Dale K. Wagler ~ Santa Monica, California
http://www.pbase.com/dwagler
 
1. Is it normal to have the pictures blocked by the WA lens when
at full W?
2. In order not to have the picture blocked by the WA lens, we can
zoom in until the WA lens no longer blocking the scene, BUT then
the framed area we're capturing is now back to the same area when
we use full W without the WA lens. Then why are we using the WA
lens?
From what I have been able to gather, it looks like .7x is right about the sweetspot as far I can see. Wider than that and vignetting occurs at wider zoom settings with the average video type adapters. .42x adapters seem to vignette to the point of having a fisheye look (although they are far from fisheye lenses) I have a .5x that was made for a vidcam, that vignettes at full tilt, so it's pretty well useless since the point where the vignetting stops is longer than the S85's wide end anyway. However this lens has a back element that unscrews and becomes a kick-butt closeup lens, therefore it stays in the kit.

I'd like a HG0758, but they are a bit costly. B&H has them for $280 and that's a bit more than I can talk myself into spending.

--
~ SONY DSC-S85 ~

Some days it doesn't pay to chew through the restraints...
 

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