Iliah Borg
Forum Pro
The wonderful part of it is that D1, D1H, D1X, D2X, and D2Xs are all based on the same sensor design.Don't seen an H after D3. So much for the H line.D1H - D2H - D2Hs - D3 - D3s
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The wonderful part of it is that D1, D1H, D1X, D2X, and D2Xs are all based on the same sensor design.Don't seen an H after D3. So much for the H line.D1H - D2H - D2Hs - D3 - D3s
That and the fact that application of gamma will make the noise more obvious in mid-toneswhich is the primary contributor to visible noise in mid-tones of high-ISO images.
Exactly !Regardless of the electron/photon ratio (Ne/Np) that you achieve, shot-noise limited SNR cannot be better than SQRT(Np).
D2Hs worked just fine for me. Of course, at that time 1600 was considered "high."Except that the D2H was not very good at high ISO ...
Speed: 8fps without cropping down. Perhaps it's a detail of no consequence for some, but it completely ruled the D2x out for my purposes. Now, if there had been an f/2 zoom available, the D2x HSC mode might have been an option (just as it could make the V1 a viable option today).There is nothing the D2H is good at that the D2X could not achieve.
Not for my applications - and I'm not alone. I still own and use both, and they are not used for the same purposes.The D2X is indeed the next DX flagship after the D2H and in this regards is its successor.
Yes, but to discuss that, I would then have needed to get into some detail about the region where read noise starts to dominate. In terms of DN, that's dependent on ISO setting and camera model - just more detail than I have time to delve into now. Please excuse my over-simplification.But it's also about dark areas of the image.
Mike, your behaviour is pathetic and childish. What you said was absolutely wrong and I have shown that it was with a simple example. Everything else in that post, which flows from your faulty premise is also wrong. Since it appears that you require me to knock it down point by point, i will now do just that. It will take a couple of posts...Bob,
Thank you for admitting that you are arguing out of context.
Where is it written that a premise must be contained within a single sentence?
As I showed, this is wrong. You can use some of the extra resolution to print larger while still having higher resolution.In other words, as long as you don't use the additional pixel count of a 36MP sensor to make a larger print than you would make with a 24MP sensor having the same dimensions, you can enjoy a higher resolution in that print, as seen at a given viewing distance, without having to use a wider aperture (smaller f-Number) to prevent diffraction from inhibiting that higher resolution.
As above this is also untrue, you can get more resolution and a larger print without using a smaller f-number.But if you try to make a larger print with the 36MP sensor than you would make with the 24MP sensor having the same dimensions and you're intent is to deliver the same resolution in the larger print as you have enjoyed in the smaller print, for viewing at a given viewing distance (i.e., you do not anticipate an increase in viewing distance that's proportional to the increase in print size), you will have to shoot at a wider aperture (smaller f-Number) to prevent diffraction from inhibiting your desired print resolution.
Not wrong, but not exactly news, either.In short:
1) When like-sized sensors with dissimilar pixel counts are used to produce like-sized prints (identical enlargement factors) the higher-density sensor will yield a higher resolution print while shooting at the same f-Number. There's no need to open to a wider aperture to avoid diffraction when using the higher-density sensor, because the diameter of diffraction's Airy disks will be the same size in both prints, after enlargement, at any given f-Number.
Wrong, as stated above. It's simply a third repetition of your faulty premise.2) When like-sized sensors with dissimilar pixel counts are used to produce proportionately dissimilar print sizes (dissimilar enlargement factors), the higher-density sensor will yield the same print resolution in the larger print as was had with the lower density sensor in the smaller print ONLY if the higher-density sensor uses a proportionately smaller f-Number (a wider aperture). Only by shooting with a smaller f-Number will the diameter of diffraction's Airy disks be the same size in both prints, after applying dissimilar enlargement factors.
N = anticipated viewing distance / desired print resolution for a 10-inch viewing distance / enlargement factor / 0.0135383Here's a formula for calculating the aperture at which diffraction will begin to impact an image at a specified combination of desired print resolution for a 10-inch viewing distance (in lp/mm), enlargement factor, and anticipated viewing distance (inches):
N = 1 / desired print resolution for a 10-inch viewing distance / enlargement factor / 0.00135383If you prefer to always assume someone may view your prints as closely as 10 inches, you can use this formula:
Thank you for your recommendation.I recommend you select a desired print resolution no lower than 4 lp/mm and no higher than 8 lp/mm.
But what about the cases when the resolution is not diffraction limited? Or the cases where the lens is diffraction limited but the resultant MTF is high enough for the cameras MTF to make a worthwhile contribution?So, if you know your desired print resolution and how much larger the diagonal of your final print will be than your sensor (or film) diagonal, you can use this formula to calculate the f-Number at which diffraction will begin to inhibit your desired print resolution for a 10-inch viewing distance.
What isn't ludicrous is that for most of the aperture range for most of the cameras we use, the overall system is not diffraction limited, and increases in camera MTF can deliver useful gains in overall resolution because the diffraction contribution to the MTF is high enough for it not to act as a 'limit' in the presence of other 'limiting' factors, the aberration MTF and the camera MTF.Whenever someone declares that diffraction isn't a problem for a given camera until a certain aperture is selected, do yourself a favor and IGNORE what they are saying if, in the same breath, they have not QUAILIFED their statement with a specified combination of enlargement factor, anticipated viewing distance, and desired print resolution. There are so many possible combinations of these variables that any attempt to state that diffraction will become "visible" at some constant aperture f/N is ludicrous.
OK, but again, not news.It's possible to have a resolution requirement that's low enough, and/or an enlargement factor that's small enough, and/or a viewing distance that's great enough to permit the use of even the smallest apertures (largest f-Numbers) available on your lens without concern for diffraction.
Here's a little news for you . The Airy disc is an abstraction, the average photographer will never recognise an image as a superposition of 'Airy discs', so really, this is not useful information.The degradation caused by diffraction is never a problem until the Airy disks are large enough in the final print, after enlargement, to inhibit your personal goal for print resolution at an anticipated viewing distance.
Or has different standards for acceptable sharpness than you? More of an issue would be the people who use your formula thinking they can produce humongous prints at large apertures, only to find that they cannot ignore resolution loss to lens aberrations or camera.While I'm on my soap box... Anyone who says they shoot with smaller apertures (larger f-Numbers) than those calculated using the above formula for a desired resolution of 4 lp/mm at a 10-inch viewing distance and finds the results to be satisfying, either has poorer than average vision -OR- does not understand what they are losing when stopping down too far.
Well, that depends. It depends on which contrast level you are working with as 'cutoff'. Still, the point is that while we need to understand the effects of diffraction, your discussion is oversimplified to the point of uselessness, and ignores the relevant issues discussed above.A print can have accutance (edge sharpness) even though it lacks resolution (detail). Detail lost to diffraction at the time the light is striking the sensor can not be restored. At best, all you can do is sharpen the image afterwards. It is impossible to restore subject detail that has been lost to diffraction.
This is nonsense. Enlargement factor does not, at all, equate to 'pixel density'.Enlargement factor is the enemy here and in digital photography, that equates to pixel density.
This is also nonsense. The extra pixels can be used to realise additional resolution, microcontrast and freedom from aliasing at the same print size.The more pixels a manufacturer squeezes onto a sensor of a given size, the greater will be the enlargement factor necessary to actually exploit all those pixels.
That is true, but as said, ignores the other factors, and in context leads one to believe that pixel density has something to do with this, which it does not.> Big, low-density sensors give us more diffraction-free stops to work with,As enlargement factor goes up for a given combination of viewing distance and desired print resolution, the f-Number at which diffraction begins to inhibit that resolution goes down.
And another thing is that the amount of light collected, and therefore the noise, is the same at the same print size and DOF for any sensor size and pixel count. The noise therefore depends on sensor efficiency not size at fixed DOF. Sensor efficiency as a trend tends to drop as sensors get bigger, with the D3s being a notable exception.in addtion to lower noise.
If they are content with that, why should they not be.The vast majority of photographers are unknowingly content with amazingly low resolution, but high acutance prints.
One of his less misleading and misinformed tutorials.For an explanation of the difference between resolution and acutance, see Sean McHugh's tutorial on sharpness:
http://www.cambridgeincolour.com/tutorials/sharpness.htm
Thanks for the effort, but given the faults in the premise it is based on, not as useful, is it?Here's an Excel spreadsheet I put together, titled: "Sensor (or Film) Size vs. Print Size vs. Diffraction"
http://home.globalcrossing.net/~zilch0/tools/Sensor1.xls
Well, it was you who objected to me only finding the glaring fault in your opening premise. Are you happier now I've pulled the lot apart?Watch out folks, he'll be attacking individual words, next...
You claimed that the D2X was the successor of the D2H and I have prooved that statement to be false. Nothing more. Nothing less.I want to see this classification on a Nikon site. All the rest is just the view of a person.Here is a classification (scroll down to the bottom of the page) which clearly validates the facts I have written:
Two lines of "Flagships" as I said.
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Comparison_of_Nikon_DSLR_cameras
The reality is that Canon had a well defined sport oriented camera, the 1D. Nikon never had that line and its cameras straggled the lines. Now Canon itself is giving up on the cost of a separate APS-H sensor, on a $,4000 + camera that sells to a relatively small market, and is introducing a 1DX which is more of a jack of all trade, like Nikon.
Proof in the pudding: you still haven't answered my question: what is it that you can do with the D2H which you cannot do with a D2x. All you can do is refer to a somewhat arbitrary classification. But you can't named a photographic activity. Your lack of true answers speaks volume.
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Thierry
Neither were good at high ISO. That was just not a feature where Nikon put the emphasis at the time.D2Hs worked just fine for me. Of course, at that time 1600 was considered "high."Except that the D2H was not very good at high ISO ...
Maybe the HSC did not work for you. But it's presence means that Nikon was again trying to make a camera straggling the lines. The D2x tried to do sports (in fact it was specifically introduced right before a sport event, and Nikon was lending the camera during that event). It was the flagship successor to the D2H, even if for you both cameras were usable and in different situatinosSpeed: 8fps without cropping down. Perhaps it's a detail of no consequence for some, but it completely ruled the D2x out for my purposes. Now, if there had been an f/2 zoom available, the D2x HSC mode might have been an option (just as it could make the V1 a viable option today).There is nothing the D2H is good at that the D2X could not achieve.
Say the rumored 24 MP D400 comes out, but you still like the D2H for a specific usage where you want small images: it would still not mean that the D400 is not the current flagship DX camera, succeeding in this role to the D300(s), itself succeeding the D2X(s), the latter succeding the D2H(s).Not for my applications - and I'm not alone. I still own and use both, and they are not used for the same purposes.The D2X is indeed the next DX flagship after the D2H and in this regards is its successor.
To the best of my knowledge Nikon were trying to do their utmost with high ISO on D2H/D2Hs. Also, for me D2H was quite usable for low light, and I continued to use it even after I got D2X - because even with downsampling D2X images D2H was still better, not to mention the frame rate available with D2H which served me better for catching the right phase of the motion and helped handholding.Neither were good at high ISO. That was just not a feature where Nikon put the emphasis at the time.D2Hs worked just fine for me. Of course, at that time 1600 was considered "high."Except that the D2H was not very good at high ISO ...
Hi Iliah,I do not know for a fact if Nikon themselves thought of D2X being sort of D2H flagship successor, but what was the timeline with D2Hs? Was it out after D2X?
After checking the database I stand corrected: the D2Hs came after the D2X.Not for my applications - and I'm not alone. I still own and use both, and they are not used for the same purposes.The D2X is indeed the next DX flagship after the D2H and in this regards is its successor.
Thank you.Using dpreview's database the D2Hs was announced ~5 months after the D2X.
Bob,
Thank you for admitting that you are arguing out of context.
Where is it written that a premise must be contained within a single sentence?
Wow, were your hands shaking when you wrote that?Mike, your behaviour is pathetic and childish.
Your example was out of context.What you said was absolutely wrong and I have shown that it was with a simple example.
My "faulty premise" being the first sentence of my post, right? Well, at least I've got you reading past the first sentence, now.Everything else in that post, which flows from your faulty premise is also wrong.
Joy!Since it appears that you require me to knock it down point by point, i will now do just that. It will take a couple of posts...
In other words, as long as you don't use the additional pixel count of a 36MP sensor to make a larger print than you would make with a 24MP sensor having the same dimensions, you can enjoy a higher resolution in that print, as seen at a given viewing distance, without having to use a wider aperture (smaller f-Number) to prevent diffraction from inhibiting that higher resolution.
Your inability to honor context is astounding. You've quoted a paragraph that describes a scenario where like-sized prints are made from like-sized sensors and yet you rebut by suggesting the extra pixels of the higher-density sensor can be used to make larger prints at higher resolutions. Dude - please try to stay inside the ring - I can't hit you if you keep jumping over the ropes!As I showed, this is wrong. You can use some of the extra resolution to print larger while still having higher resolution.
But if you try to make a larger print with the 36MP sensor than you would make with the 24MP sensor having the same dimensions and you're intent is to deliver the same resolution in the larger print as you have enjoyed in the smaller print, for viewing at a given viewing distance (i.e., you do not anticipate an increase in viewing distance that's proportional to the increase in print size), you will have to shoot at a wider aperture (smaller f-Number) to prevent diffraction from inhibiting your desired print resolution.
(Hallelujah! We're on the same page - at least for a brief moment!)As above this is also untrue, you can get more resolution and a larger print without using a smaller f-number.
In short:
1) When like-sized sensors with dissimilar pixel counts are used to produce like-sized prints (identical enlargement factors) the higher-density sensor will yield a higher resolution print while shooting at the same f-Number. There's no need to open to a wider aperture to avoid diffraction when using the higher-density sensor, because the diameter of diffraction's Airy disks will be the same size in both prints, after enlargement, at any given f-Number.
Yay!Not wrong, but not exactly news, either.
2) When like-sized sensors with dissimilar pixel counts are used to produce proportionately dissimilar print sizes (dissimilar enlargement factors), the higher-density sensor will yield the same print resolution in the larger print as was had with the lower density sensor in the smaller print ONLY if the higher-density sensor uses a proportionately smaller f-Number (a wider aperture). Only by shooting with a smaller f-Number will the diameter of diffraction's Airy disks be the same size in both prints, after applying dissimilar enlargement factors.
Oops! There you go, jumping the ropes, again.Wrong, as stated above. It's simply a third repetition of your faulty premise.
Here's a formula for calculating the aperture at which diffraction will begin to impact an image at a specified combination of desired print resolution for a 10-inch viewing distance (in lp/mm), enlargement factor, and anticipated viewing distance (inches):
N = anticipated viewing distance / desired print resolution for a 10-inch viewing distance / enlargement factor / 0.0135383
Amazing analysis, Bob! Do you see anything in that formula addressing pixel size? Answer: No. By using the word "nonsense" as you have, you've once again proven that you do not understand the context of my argument. You're thinking through a straw.Well, a fairly simple restatement of the Airy disc formula, but ignores the fact that diffraction, by itself does not determine the MTF of a lens until one gets to diffraction limited apertures (in the proper sense, not this diffraction limited by pixel size nonsense), so pretty much a formula without useful application unless you're working above f/11 or so.
Hint: When like-sized sensors with dissimilar pixel counts are used to produce proportionately dissimilar print sizes, you will have DISSIMILAR ENLARGEMENT FACTORS, and thus, the higher-density sensor will be producing larger Airy disks in the larger print even though the Airy disks start out the same size at the sensor, prior to enlargement - for any given f-Number.2) When like-sized sensors with dissimilar pixel counts are used to produce proportionately dissimilar print sizes (dissimilar enlargement factors), the higher-density sensor will yield the same print resolution in the larger print as was had with the lower density sensor in the smaller print ONLY if the higher-density sensor uses a proportionately smaller f-Number (a wider aperture). Only by shooting with a smaller f-Number will the diameter of diffraction's Airy disks be the same size in both prints, after applying dissimilar enlargement factors.
If you prefer to always assume someone may view your prints as closely as 10 inches, you can use this formula:
N = 1 / desired print resolution for a 10-inch viewing distance / enlargement factor / 0.00135383
Note: The two versions of the formula have different constants (a 10x difference).
Joy!Thanks for letting us know how to multiply by 1. Will be useful for some.
I recommend you select a desired print resolution no lower than 4 lp/mm and no higher than 8 lp/mm.
You're welcome!Thank you for your recommendation.
So, if you know your desired print resolution and how much larger the diagonal of your final print will be than your sensor (or film) diagonal, you can use this formula to calculate the f-Number at which diffraction will begin to inhibit your desired print resolution for a 10-inch viewing distance.
And what about the case where a meteor falls from the sky and smashes me and my camera to smithereens before I can make the exposure?But what about the cases when the resolution is not diffraction limited? Or the cases where the lens is diffraction limited but the resultant MTF is high enough for the cameras MTF to make a worthwhile contribution?
Whenever someone declares that diffraction isn't a problem for a given camera until a certain aperture is selected, do yourself a favor and IGNORE what they are saying if, in the same breath, they have not QUAILIFED their statement with a specified combination of enlargement factor, anticipated viewing distance, and desired print resolution. There are so many possible combinations of these variables that any attempt to state that diffraction will become "visible" at some constant aperture f/N is ludicrous.
Agreed! And nothing you've said contradicts my contention.What isn't ludicrous is that for most of the aperture range for most of the cameras we use, the overall system is not diffraction limited, and increases in camera MTF can deliver useful gains in overall resolution because the diffraction contribution to the MTF is high enough for it not to act as a 'limit' in the presence of other 'limiting' factors, the aberration MTF and the camera MTF.
Roger that!... to be continued
Your pathetic and childish behaviour is treating a simple issue of engineering fact as a measure of self esteem, to the extent that when it is called, you just can't let it go. You objected to me finding fault with only your first sentence, even though I have shown beyond doubt that what you said is not right. I went through the lot, and you are not happy with that either. The fact is, as I said, that your initial sentence, which is the premise for the rest of a bloated, repetitive and unfocussed post, is untrue and the rest really wasn't worth bothering about. You've been trading a line of 'advice' which is based on incorrect assumptions and facts. Stop doing it, learn and get over the fact that you've been in error, we all are at some time or other.You're thinking through a straw. It's as if you're only capable of digesting one or two sentences at a time and as long as you continue to do that, you'll continue to argue out of context.