New camera?

[PK62]

I have a 450D and use the 100-400mm lens often because I take mostly wildlife and nature shots. Here's my question. Now that I'm getting more experience is this lens overkill for my camera? I've been told that, and I'm wondering if I should be looking at an upgrade in cameras. I've read that the EOS7D is recommended for wildlife. I guess my question is: would I be getting far superior shots from a new camera that would make it worth the cost? Or should I continue to work on my skills with the camera that I have now. I typically only print up to 8 1/2x 11 prints.

 

[Player9]

Do you feel like you're missing something? Don't fall victim to the materialistic society. G.A.S. is an addiction that won't stop with your buying the 7D.

 

[PK62]

I just feel that my shots aren't as sharp as I would like and seem to have some noise in the background. I'm trying to fix them PP, but not having much luck. I have a feeling it's my inexperience, but just wanted to make sure what others thought.

 

[windmillgolfer]

The 7D is a massive step cost-wise. You'd certainly see a difference because you could user higher ISOs and therefore increased shutter speeds to improve sharpness. Also, with 18MP there's much more room for cropping. But all of this applies to the 550D, 600D and 60D too. If improved weathersealing is a requirement then 60D might be the optimum upgrade. I got the 600D because it is much less expensive than the 60D. Also, having previously owned a 30D I'm conscious that increased weight and size can become a pain when travelling. Stuart

 

[PK62]

Thanks, this is all something to think about. I don't have limitless finances and my lens was a huge investment for me.

I was told by a Canon rep that I should be getting great quality shots from my combination xsi and lens, so I'm thinking it must be me.

 

[PK62]

This is an example of one of my shots at 400mm, I focused the fence out of the photo also, but my wolf just doesn't look really sharp to me.

 

[BAK]

A new camera is not going to make your photos sharper.

Noise is a function of the camera body and the exposure.

Can you tell us what kind of images you are looking at where noise is a problem? 8x12 prints? 12x18 prints? 20x30 prints?

And what ISO was used?

As a general rule, taking wildelife shots with long telephoto lenses is a lot harder than beginners think, other than in bright sunshine.

BAK

 

[PK62]

I mostly print 8x12 or smaller. The ISO here was 400 at F8, 1/800 sec, but often go to ISO 800 for birds. This picture was hand held behind a second fence also, so maybe not a good example. The noise I'm seeing is usually in the background sky, water and grass on cropped photos. It's just that I view the bird and wildlife photos on this site and they all seem so sharp compared to mine. I'm envious.

 

[windmillgolfer]

Can't see the EXIF, so guessing a bit. Low contrast animal against white is inherently difficult to get right. Most likely issue is a combination of slight overexposure and slight movement. What ISO, focal length, aperture and shutter speed? Stuart

 

[PK62]

It's better, but still not what I want. This one is also hand held and through a zoo glass, so again it's not optimum conditions.

 

[PK62]

For the wolf shot, I posted settings after the post except focal length was 300mm.

 

[EpyonXero]

A new body isnt going to solve the problems youre having, only practice.

 

[PK62]

That's good to know and way less expensive. Do you know of any good instructional DVDs that I could purchase, or just practice, practice, practice?

 

[imqqmi]

The trick is to sharpen after you downsize for web view.

before you downsize and apply any kind of sharpening, make sure you're applying some noise reduction. I use Neat image.
In short:

• Process your images without noise reduction or sharpening
• Apply noise reduction with your favorite NR software (supplied DPP does a good job though you may loose a little more detail)
• You can sharpen the full size image. That can be a good thing if the image is slightly too soft.
• Resize and sharpen once more.

This is an example of one of my shots at 400mm, I focused the fence out of the photo also, but my wolf just doesn't look really sharp to me.

--
Kind regards
Imqqmi



http://www.pbase.com/imqqmi

The DSLR jargon cheatsheet:
http://www.jmbfoto.nl/dslrcheatsheet.pdf

Sunset blending tutorial:
http://www.jmbfoto.nl/tutorial/blendingTutorial01a.pdf

Wilba's Frequently Asked (beginners) Questions and answers
http://snipurl.com/RebelFAQ

 

[PK62]

That makes such a difference, thank you. I'll try it again. I don't have much luck with sharpening for some reason, maybe I'm doing it wrong or at the wrong time. I usually do in in PSE8 while doing editing and cropping. I'll try my DPP, I don't use it much. Also, I've never downsized an image for web viewing, I'm so new at this I'm not even sure how to do that. Is it the same as when you email it?

 

[Shorthand]

The newer sensors are only a minor upgrade over the sensor in the 450D. Getting a 550D/600D/60D/7D (which all have the same sensor) isn't the solution. None of them have substantially better performance than the 450D does.

You can post-process somewhat better to solve the issue (and expose very carefully)

My thoughts: With the possible exception of your stalking technique, this isn't really photo technique, you are up against the limitations of your system. In your shoes, I would stop down a little for sharpness, even if it meant higher ISOs.

The 100-400 is not the sharpest of "L" lenses, especially on the long end.
See http://www.luminous-landscape.com/reviews/lenses/forgotten-400.shtml

Potential low-cost fixes include:

• Stop down to f/8 or f/11 - The extra sharpness is probably worth the extra noise to you.
• Post-process with a better model of the Lens' imperfections. I use the optical models in DxO Optics Pro to cope with the optical imperfections of my 18-55 and 55-250. (Whereas the software isn't nearly as helpful with the 50mm f/1.8 or the 100mm f/2.8 Macro USM.) To get an idea of what DxO does that you can't on your own, see http://www.dxo.com/uk/photo/dxo_optics_pro/features/optics_geometry_corrections/lens_softness - It won't fix the fundamental problem, but its the best mathematical way to reverse the optical imperfections of the lens.
• I also think that you could do better in your sharpening using your current software and some of the techniques described above.
• For what you're trying to achieve, though, I wouldn't spend equipment on money, I would learn to work with what I have.

Noise:

• The 7D is only 23% better than your 450D in this department - http://bit.ly/rHj8GV - That's just 1/3rd of a stop. Upcoming cameras should be much better, like the current Nikon (Sony) APS-C sensors are.
• You either have to find a way to post-process it to your satisfaction (check in in the digital darkroom forum, they may be able to help there) or learn to live with it.
• I will mention that most viewers don't find it distracting . If you want that ultra-crisp look (which is what I think you're trying to achieve), you actually need to prioritize sharpness over noise - stop down and then apply minimal luminance noise correction.
• Embrace the Luminance Noise Personally, I am in the habit of embracing the luminance noise. Chroma noise is ugly and distracting but pure luminance noise is something that the eye deals with all the time (it is limited by the same quantum mechanics / counting issues that the camera sensor is). Therefore, I apply minimal noise reduction (not 0 but usually 15/100) on the luminance side while leaving the chrominance NR at its default setting. The technique maximizes sharpness and lets the viewers brain do what it does best.

In terms of high-cost fixes - a sharper lens (like the 400mm f/5.6 or the new 70-300 L) would indeed help noticably. The other way to really improve sharpness is to decrease the amount you have to blow up the picture - i.e. move to the 5D or 5D II. You might want to try the 100-400 on an EOS film body and see if you like what you get (or just rent a 5D II body).

 

[imqqmi]

That makes such a difference, thank you. I'll try it again. I don't have much luck with sharpening for some reason, maybe I'm doing it wrong or at the wrong time. I usually do in in PSE8 while doing editing and cropping. I'll try my DPP, I don't use it much. Also, I've never downsized an image for web viewing, I'm so new at this I'm not even sure how to do that. Is it the same as when you email it?

Yes it should be the same as email. I don't own pse8 but it should be the same as with photoshop. I usually resize the image to 1280x833 pixels or 600x900 pixels (portrait) and then sharpen it. I think you can use smart sharpen or something similar. You need something that can mask out non detailed areas as to not 'sharpen' the noise. That's what my action in photoshop was designed to do and that's why the results can be very clean.

DPP sharpening is possibly the worst kind of sharpening you can do IMO.

--
Kind regards
Imqqmi



http://www.pbase.com/imqqmi

The DSLR jargon cheatsheet:
http://www.jmbfoto.nl/dslrcheatsheet.pdf

Sunset blending tutorial:
http://www.jmbfoto.nl/tutorial/blendingTutorial01a.pdf

Wilba's Frequently Asked (beginners) Questions and answers
http://snipurl.com/RebelFAQ

 

[PK62]

A lot of great info., thank you. I'm going to have to learn to work with my shots. I think it would help if I could find a DVD for my PSE 8 or DPP. I'm a visual person and the books I have just aren't doing it for me. I think I'll just work at it with the equipment that I have. My husband will thank you I'm sure.

 

[Shorthand]

We're all happy to help.

One last tip on the noise issue - expose to the right : http://www.luminous-landscape.com/tutorials/expose-right.shtml

This will minimize your shadow noise.

 

[PK62]

Thanks again. This has been so helpful for me. I've just been sitting here sharpening away in my PSE8. I still have to really work at the noise. I'll just keep at it using all of these tips.