What is the calculator supposed to predict?Well, I can only confirm that the 'diffraction calculator' doesn't
apply fully to my findings on the FZ5 and FZ8. Maybe we have weaker
AA filters than the calculator assumes (suppose it's 'extrapolated'
from DSLR findings)?
As I said, the resolution will still improve with more megapixels at the
so called "diffraction limit", albeit slower.
And the sharpest setting for the lens will depend on both diffraction
and the aberrations of the lens.
It's not been demonstrated that there is a loss of DR.This is purely an idea, I have no evidence what
so ever. But I don't expect I can 'play' with the aperture too much
with the G10 at 140mm without softening the image severely, so I
cannot use the extra MP, but lose some DR and burst.
Cameras ought to have hardware support for quick downsizing.
Then you could shoot in a low resolution setting at a higher speed.
Wait, don't the recent Lumixes do this? Maybe the G10 doesn't.
That's a good point that I also would like to see investigated better.Yes, I've read and understand what
John S. has proven, but there is one question that remains to be
answered, Do his findings also apply to incremental differences among
small sensors?
I know he was unimpressed by the famous 6Mp Fuji sensor, in the S6500fd.
Less full-well capacity than the FZ50 despite larger pixels and less
quantum efficiency. And more read noise at low ISO. (So poor DR)
Only things it was better at was read noise at high ISO and less
1D noise (pattern noise).
Anyway, his (and others) measurements and demonstrations suggest
that smaller pixels don't give less image DR. So the onus is on those who
say they do, to demonstrate that. IMO.
So better not rely solely on that pair of cameras.The
'solution' would be to compare the LX3 RAW files and the FX150/ FZ28
raw files, which are from the same generation and manufacturer, but
'conservative' vs. 'pop' MP count. The electronics might be better on
the LX3,
Unfortunately, few camera owners make the necessary raw files publicly
available. For DR you need blackframes (fast shutter speed with lens cap on,
preferably two per ISO) and a shot where all the channels are clipped,
preferably one per ISO to be sure it doesn't change.
And preferably reference shots to check the speed of the ISO against
a well investigated camera, like the FZ50, the G9 or a Canikon DSLR. Same
subject (something uniform), lighting and exposure; one shot with the test
camera and one with a reference camera.
IIRC, the D3 uses eight components (working in parallel) in the circuitryEg. I don't think the DR
is independent of the pixel density. The improved DR of the D3
compared to the D300 does suggest something. Yes, electronics could
be a factor, but still.
downstream the sensor that have a list price of $40 each. This to add as little
noise as possible. Obviously, this is only possible in a camera that sells for a lot
of money.
And John Sheehy says the 1Ds mark 3 has more DR than the D3, at equal
viewing size, e.g. if its pixels are downsampled to 12 Mp. (The D3 has a
bit better quantum efficiency though, meaning less midtone noise.)
Well, I have to disagree there. For me it's no problem if the image isSince even 'low' NR can take its toll on a pic, the
'optimum' sensor density would be the one that doesn't need NR at
base iso at all (maybe a slight chroma NR).
noisy at 100% and I would not want a low resolution just to not have to
ever see noise. It's the consumer/reviewer fear of seeing noise at 100%
that causes the makers to destroy the JPEG files with far too much NR.
Just my two oere
Erik from Sweden