"Tricking Out" the Oly

glowluzid

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So after an exhaustive comparison of the lesser expensive dSLRs, I bought the E20N for total of $1387 (including taxes and all delivery costs). Plan to get the extended OLY warranty soon enough.

I just finished "tricking out" the e20 with slight modification that, while not earth shattering, add a little icing for me.

1. How to use the IR remote from behind the camera
2. Enhancing the grip
3. LCD shield

See them at
http://www.erim-int.com/~twede/photos/trickedout/trickedout.html
 
Some good ideas, I have made a home made Lithium ion battery pack that can take 400 (I have tested) all flash shots with LCD preview before it needs recharging (guess 600-800 normal photo's) if you would like to know how to make such a pack etc let me know. The battery is quite small and velcros to the camera strap.

Chris
So after an exhaustive comparison of the lesser expensive dSLRs, I
bought the E20N for total of $1387 (including taxes and all
delivery costs). Plan to get the extended OLY warranty soon enough.

I just finished "tricking out" the e20 with slight modification
that, while not earth shattering, add a little icing for me.

1. How to use the IR remote from behind the camera
2. Enhancing the grip
3. LCD shield

See them at
http://www.erim-int.com/~twede/photos/trickedout/trickedout.html
 
Yes, please tell.
Some good ideas, I have made a home made Lithium ion battery pack
that can take 400 (I have tested) all flash shots with LCD preview
before it needs recharging (guess 600-800 normal photo's) if you
would like to know how to make such a pack etc let me know. The
battery is quite small and velcros to the camera strap.
 
Cool stuff, heres a challange for you.

After using the E-20 for awhile with the Lipo,Quantum T2 flash and stroboframe bracket, all the hand pressure ends up on the CF/SM door. This is turn has made the door annoyingly lose.

It seems this door should have a O ring around the edges anyway but it does not. Any ideas on how to tighten up this door?

Just so you know, the movement is UP and Down along the hinged side.

Thanks :)
So after an exhaustive comparison of the lesser expensive dSLRs, I
bought the E20N for total of $1387 (including taxes and all
delivery costs). Plan to get the extended OLY warranty soon enough.

I just finished "tricking out" the e20 with slight modification
that, while not earth shattering, add a little icing for me.

1. How to use the IR remote from behind the camera
2. Enhancing the grip
3. LCD shield

See them at
http://www.erim-int.com/~twede/photos/trickedout/trickedout.html
-- http://members.home.net/mackey135/njdigitalservices.htm 'I have discovered digital photography' Livin life at 5 megapixels!
 
Forgot to mention, the pictures take a real long time to load, you might consider reducing the size...

regards :)
So after an exhaustive comparison of the lesser expensive dSLRs, I
bought the E20N for total of $1387 (including taxes and all
delivery costs). Plan to get the extended OLY warranty soon enough.

I just finished "tricking out" the e20 with slight modification
that, while not earth shattering, add a little icing for me.

1. How to use the IR remote from behind the camera
2. Enhancing the grip
3. LCD shield

See them at
http://www.erim-int.com/~twede/photos/trickedout/trickedout.html
-- http://members.home.net/mackey135/njdigitalservices.htm 'I have discovered digital photography' Livin life at 5 megapixels!
 
Since we already have the Oly wired remote for the E10, I would be interested in knowing if any of the E10/20 users have tried trick #1 with a C3040 as the IR remote is the only remote option.
I just finished "tricking out" the e20 with slight modification
that, while not earth shattering, add a little icing for me.

1. How to use the IR remote from behind the camera
2. Enhancing the grip
3. LCD shield

See them at
http://www.erim-int.com/~twede/photos/trickedout/trickedout.html
 
Cool stuff, heres a challange for you.
After using the E-20 for awhile with the Lipo,Quantum T2 flash and
stroboframe bracket, all the hand pressure ends up on the CF/SM
door. This is turn has made the door annoyingly lose.
It seems this door should have a O ring around the edges anyway but
it does not. Any ideas on how to tighten up this door?

Just so you know, the movement is UP and Down along the hinged side.
No problemo, I already worked on this with my E10 as it moves and creaks ever so slightly, which I don't like, just use a little bit of the black door wind draft excluder that is self adhesive, it is far too thick so use a razor blade (carefully) to trim its depth down to about 1-2mm (and 2 mm wide) then stick a piece on the door right next to the hinge, it should stop the rattle and creaks. You could use some in other places too, if this isn't enough.

Chris
 
How was the sandpaper mounted to the camera?

Honestly I never had a problem with the grid.
Are you doing this becasue the camera is slipping out
of your hands?

Bill
So after an exhaustive comparison of the lesser expensive dSLRs, I
bought the E20N for total of $1387 (including taxes and all
delivery costs). Plan to get the extended OLY warranty soon enough.

I just finished "tricking out" the e20 with slight modification
that, while not earth shattering, add a little icing for me.

1. How to use the IR remote from behind the camera
2. Enhancing the grip
3. LCD shield

See them at
http://www.erim-int.com/~twede/photos/trickedout/trickedout.html
 
Kewl! I did a google search for the "blak door" stuff and came up gooseggs, can you tell me where I can find it?
Cool stuff, heres a challange for you.
After using the E-20 for awhile with the Lipo,Quantum T2 flash and
stroboframe bracket, all the hand pressure ends up on the CF/SM
door. This is turn has made the door annoyingly lose.
It seems this door should have a O ring around the edges anyway but
it does not. Any ideas on how to tighten up this door?

Just so you know, the movement is UP and Down along the hinged side.
No problemo, I already worked on this with my E10 as it moves and
creaks ever so slightly, which I don't like, just use a little bit
of the black door wind draft excluder that is self adhesive, it is
far too thick so use a razor blade (carefully) to trim its depth
down to about 1-2mm (and 2 mm wide) then stick a piece on the door
right next to the hinge, it should stop the rattle and creaks. You
could use some in other places too, if this isn't enough.

Chris
-- http://members.home.net/mackey135/njdigitalservices.htm 'I have discovered digital photography' Livin life at 5 megapixels!
 
Some good ideas, I have made a home made Lithium ion battery pack
that can take 400 (I have tested) all flash shots with LCD preview
before it needs recharging (guess 600-800 normal photo's) if you
would like to know how to make such a pack etc let me know. The
battery is quite small and velcros to the camera strap.
Ok...here goes....I'll give you a brief run down, and if you need more details on a particular part, let me know.

Cruise around Ebay looking for some Lithium Ion laptop batteries, brand new ones are preferable, but good condition used should be ok, I have used dell but Acer (containing Sony Energytec lithium cells) seem to be better, break them up carefully to remove the cells. I will assume in this text that you are using the Sony cells, they are rated at 2700Mah each, and are 3.6volts, so simply put two in series. Try not to solder directly onto the terminals, use the spot welded tags that are already there, so as not to heat the cells too much, solder quickly!

Tape the two cells side by side and attach some velcro to them (good quality stuff) and solder on a socket or plug (the type that can't be pulled apart without unclipping, radio control car battery connectors are a good source). Put some velcro on your camera strap to attach the batteries with.

The next part you can do in two ways, 1 is to buy an Olympus spare battery cartridge and drill a little hole in the bottom to feed the wires from the battery, the other is simply to plug the batteries into the AC adapter port but this is a little clumsy (but cheaper).

As far as re-charging the cells, look for a cheap generic Lithium (HAS to be lithium!!) charger on Ebay, I got a Rayovac for $10. Check the polarity before you connect the cells, or you will damage the batteries and/or charger.

Out of one Acer laptop batterty I managed to get 6 cells, this is enough for 3 lithium packs, at 600 shots a pack, that is 1800 shots!! and for around $15, a lot cheaper than the Lipo.

If you think you maybe going on a mega shoot in the future, you can connect a number of cells in parallel and then put two of these sets in series, in this way you can make packs that will be good for 10,000 shots!!

Have fun and ask me if you need some more details.

Chris

I will try and post some shots of my setup soon.
 
Kewl! I did a google search for the "blak door" stuff and came up
gooseggs, can you tell me where I can find it?
Its the stuff you can buy in rolls at hardware stores, you use it to prevent drafts from coming through doors in your house, some of it is white, but I suggest you look for the black type to blend in to the camera a bit better, mine looks like its was there from the factory!

Chris
 
How was the sandpaper mounted to the camera?
Not sandpaper. It is grip tape--the black kind you'd find on stairs in a school to prevent slippng. It has a very strong adhesive already--good enough to stay on despite highschoolers kicking at it.
Honestly I never had a problem with the grid.
Are you doing this becasue the camera is slipping out
of your hands?
Nah. But it feels good. and it helps my spouse hold the camera the right way. I probably put too much on it, but the right amount makes it look like an advanced grip, raising the 'Pro' look of the camera a small notch.
 
Thanks. I may try that in a month or so, when I get a moment.
Aren't most Lions 3V? I dunno, don't really use them.
Lithium single use cells (not lithium ions) are 3 volts, the rechargeable lithium ions are 3.6volts.
These packs are also great for powering digital wallets and flashes etc etc.

Chris
 
I've been looking around and haven't seen that price...mostly in the $1600-1700 range. Inquiring minds want to know!

Brad
 
One time deal. Dealer friend. Sorry. (If I had to pay $1600+ for it, I might have dissuaded myself and gone with a d30. But then again, probably not--though the d60 might tempt me in the end next time.)
I've been looking around and haven't seen that price...mostly in
the $1600-1700 range. Inquiring minds want to know!

Brad
 
Hi Ape
Thanks for the tips.
Welcome.
While I was on your site I also checked out your photo galleries.
There's some fine shots there. I particularly liked the Autumn
leaves shots and the portraits.
Thanks. Thos were shot with a cheapie casio 3000ex (3mp, but autumn shots were all original low res 1024x768) The farm shots are the only thing I have up from the E20, now a week old.

I didn't know what photography was till digital came out and now I can't get enough (though my wallet has had enough).
 
Its the stuff you can buy in rolls at hardware stores, you use it
to prevent drafts from coming through doors in your house, some of
it is white, but I suggest you look for the black type to blend in
to the camera a bit better, mine looks like its was there from the
factory!
It's generally called self-stick or self-adhesive weatherstripping, from your description, I think... :-)
 
Cool stuff, heres a challange for you.
After using the E-20 for awhile with the Lipo,Quantum T2 flash and
stroboframe bracket, all the hand pressure ends up on the CF/SM
door. This is turn has made the door annoyingly lose.
It seems this door should have a O ring around the edges anyway but
it does not. Any ideas on how to tighten up this door?

Just so you know, the movement is UP and Down along the hinged side.
No problemo, I already worked on this with my E10 as it moves and
creaks ever so slightly, which I don't like, just use a little bit
of the black door wind draft excluder that is self adhesive, it is
far too thick so use a razor blade (carefully) to trim its depth
down to about 1-2mm (and 2 mm wide) then stick a piece on the door
right next to the hinge, it should stop the rattle and creaks. You
could use some in other places too, if this isn't enough.

Chris
--
http://members.home.net/mackey135/njdigitalservices.htm
'I have discovered digital photography' Livin life at 5 megapixels!
An reasonable alternative might be good ol' light seal material. I own a photography studio/camera store/repair shop in Oklahoma and would be happy to send you a strip of this self-adhesive high-density foam material for the cost of shipping. It cuts easily with a razor blade or X-acto and the adhesive is fairly strong stuff. E-mail me at [email protected] if yer interested.

-Shuttermutt
 

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