[snip]
Basically, I'm taking issue with you describing the use of
pre-flash exposure lock as a "workaround" while recommending an
auto mode flash as a true solution.
Definitely is a workaround using the AEL lock method just to avoid
preflash. The only true solution to preflash is one that
eliminates it all together, that's why I mention the Metz 54MZ4.
Obviously, we disagree on what constitutes a work-around. My method allows you to take advantage of the camera's TTL multi-segment metering system, your method requires no auto exposure locking.
Nikon's pre-flash exposure lock gives you TTL flash metering and
no-preflash before each shot. It only requires that you shoot from
approximately the same position for subsequent photos.
So I'm not allowed to move to take more shots and move my camera
angle toward an area with different lighting. Sounds like a
workaround to me. I rather not have to do that.
You can take lots of subsequent photos with the locked-in exposure. For that matter, you can move around as well, as long as the lighting and subject distance is about the same. If you think about the situations in which this can be used, it is, in fact, quite useful. You also don't need to attach an external flash to do this, so this option is always available to you.
Your non-workaround system consists of an external flash unit
operating in a mode that does not provide TTL flash.
Metz actually works with TTL if you buy the M5 adaptor from Metz
for the Minolta. But it gets that camera info from the camera and
uses the sensor on the Metz, so the best of both worlds.
Yes, I know this, and it is a nice, if expensive, option.
In my experience, TTL
metering is far more accurate than what I get from the flashes in
auto mode.
But remember, the Metz get the camera info in auto mode and uses
its own sensor so that it can take a better shot, but without the
preflash. And people have very good experience with it as
mentioned in other threads, possibly better than the in-camera if
just using TTL, which is required rather than ADI when not using
the D lens.
As I've said, my experience is that TTL provides better flash results than auto-mode (ie: using the flash unit's built-in light sensor). Whether it gets the aperture automatically or manually from the lens doesn't matter. To argue otherwise would be to say that average metering gives equal or better results than multi-segment metering. There will be exceptions, of course, but by and large, the results of a multi-segment metering of today's cameras is much better than anything that a flash's light sensor will produce.
Depending on what's important to you, either could be described as
a workaround.
I have a hard time considering a different choice of equipment as a
workaround. I consider workaround is something you have to do when
shooting to prevent a preflash (or the effect of it) at the time
you are shooting, whether using a 2 second timer, AEL, redeye, etc.
Based on your definition, yes, it is a workaround. Based on mine, they're both workarounds.
I'm not denigrating your solution to pre-flash, I'm just pointing
out that it is not the only one and neither is better than the
other in all situations.
Maybe not all, but I prefer the one that covers the most bases that
I don't have to worry about when shooting as a routine.
I've tried both methods and I'm well aware of how well each works. I've gotten good shots with my 45CT-5 (the dual flash heads are handy -- the 54MZ4 has them, too, right?), but I've gotten even better results with TTL flash metering. If the subject was filling most of the frame, I'd be fine using auto mode on a flash unit, but for off-center subjects with a really dark/light background or other tricky lighting situations, the pre-flash lock is more reliable, in my experience, for metering. Using it is no more cumbersome than using the AEL button which we're all familiar with, it works exactly the same way.
Having said all that, I currently have the 3600HS. I will continue
to use it for the time being to see how much of a problem I have
when using good flash and exposure techniques and using the
2-second time if absolutely needed. At least I know there is a
Metz out there if needed.
BTW, why would you use the 3600HS if you've got the 54MZ4? Don't you have the Minolta module for it? Just curious.
Anyway, I think we've given the OP more than enough info on these two flash-blink avoidance methods. ;-)
larsbc