I have tested the 7D and 20D side by side

wendyorg

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Well, I felt I had to test both of these cameras in a number of real-world situations so I could make my final decision on whether teh KM 7D was for me or not, so I got my hands on a 20D and shot a dogs show, toured a bit of Washington DC, the National Aquarium, the Reagan Building and did ISO noise tests using Program mode and mainly default settings with both cameras. I just wanted to see how each camera interpreted the exposure and WB out of the box, also wanted to see noise and focus accuracy and speed.

I will post images tomorrow, it's 2 am and I need to go to bed, but here are a couple of conclusions I have come to. All in all, both are VERY GOOD cameras that anyone would be happy with. There are just a few minor things that separate the two.

I love the way the Canon is so quiet - something I didn't think would matter, but it does to me. There are many times you either want to take a picture in a place that is very quiet or in a place where you really aren't allowed to take pictures . The last thing you want is the big kerflunk sound that comes from the KM shutter. It sounds so weird that you keep thinking you are shooting at a very slow shutter speed, but it's just the way it sounds. Also, the 20D AF is so smooth and quiet, you keep wondering if it did anything. KM can do the er-er-er-er in and out to hunt and it is LOUD.

Indoors, KM is a little cool in it's AWB. Canon is a little warm, towards yellow. Neither hit the WB right-on, so some adjustments would be necessary for both. If I could not make adjustments and had to shoot at default, Canon's warmth would be easier to live with for me personally.

KM tends to underexpose a little, Canon, overexpose. Again, adjustments can be made for this.

Noise. This is where I noticed the biggest differences. Both are about equal till you reach 800 ISO, but even at 800, most could not tell the difference - both are acceptable. But when you reach 1600 and 3200, the differences are huge. As might be expected, the 8mp Canon has the ability to outdo the KM. At 1600, KM falls apart with noise, and Canon still makes excellent images with almost no noise. At 3200, KM is unacceptable, Canon still looks very good and I would not hesitate to use 3200 if I needed to.

Camera shake - I did not seem to have a significantly higher # of blurry pics from the Canon with no AS and no IS in the lens than I did with AS on in the KM which surprised me. Focus, I probably had a few more aquarium fish-swimming shots in focus with the Canon than with the KM, but I got a few "winner" shots with both.

I do have one suggestion for those who feel the KM images are too soft. Before you turn up the sharpness in the camera, try this: turn OFF noise reduction. In my tests, I could see no reduction in noise, but I did see a huge reduction is sharpness. I think it ships with NR ON as a default, so turn it off and see what you think. You will not see extra noise, but you will see sharper details.

There was only one side-by-side shot that the KM resolved detail in better. I was very impressed with that shot compared to the Canon.

Lastly, the only big problem I have with the 20D is that the one I have appears to backfocus in certain situations. In my noise tests (informal) I had the camera on a tripod with my husbands face behind the AF point and he sat still while I shot at different ISO's. At 200 ISO on the Canon, the shot looked to be backfocused - his ears were sharp, his face was not. ISO 100 and ISO 400 etc were all fine. I know little about the problem, but now that I have seen it for myself, I realize it is something I have never, ever seen before with any camera I have used - it's a very weird phenomenon.

I think the image noise at high ISO's was what has swayed me towards the 20D, but on the other hand, unless I can get one that doesn't back-focus, I would not be happy worrying about unpredictable backfocusing results.

Does anyone know if it is a hit and miss thing within a camera model

or if one does it, they all do it? I have heard they can re-calibrate the camera, but you would think they would start turning out new lots with the corrections made by now. I did not notice the KM doing any back-focusing, although in my tripod tests, one KM picture was drastically out of focus when nothing had been moved or changed.

This was meant to report my findings, somewhat unscientific but an

expression of my experiences carrying around 2 cameras and shooting in many different situations (any idea how hard it is to shoot fast-moving fish???) I felt that, since many agree that the technology
"isn't there yet", but we all know we gotta have a DSLR NOW, I wanted

to make sure for myself, that the money was being spent on a camera I wanted to pick up, not one I dreaded picking up because of inconsistent or sub-par results. This was done for me personally and I had no idea which camera would "speak to me". This will be different with each person - just like some people like one type of car, and their friends wouldn't at all feel comfortable driving that kind. There is no one right or wrong answer, and both of these cameras have given me excellent pictures. If I cannot get a 20D that doesn't back-focus, I will gladly stay with KM. I hope some of this has helped some of you understand what differences I have found and it may encourage you to try your own tests and comparisons.

I will post some images tomorrow.

Wendy
 
That is very helpful. Good luck on the choice. For me, with this weather lately, I don't feel so much the need for photography at the moment, so I'll wait a bit more before buying a DSLR. And there is still some film in the fridge anyway...
Ciao, Daniel
 
Wendy,

Thanks for this review. I had been pondering on which DSLR to get, and between the 20D and the 7D, and decided that as I'm a long time Minolta film user, the re-use of my lenses made the diference for me. But as ever, you wonder whether you've made the right decision.
So especially useful - and I am very happy with my images from my 7D to date.

Just one point, according to the manual, noise reduction is only supposed to affect exposures longer than 1 second, and isn't applied to continuous frame shooting. From a software point of view, even if on, but not applicable, some processing in the chip must take place, if only to recognise the set of conditions and to decide whether to apply or not.

Only the software designer would know if this affceted other porcessing, even if the set of conditions were negative.

I certainly shall try and see, when I have a little spare time, but the soft images get very decently sharp with only a little PPing, and I do like the control that this gives me.

If you were shooting fast moving images, I guess your shutter speeds would be high, so perhaps AS doesn't have a great deal of impact. A lot of my photos are slower, big depth of focus, small aperture, and often in tricky light, so my experience to date is rather more positive. But no-one said that the 7D was the camera for every situation!

Good luck with your final choice.
Well, I felt I had to test both of these cameras in a number of
real-world situations so I could make my final decision on whether
teh KM 7D was for me or not, so I got my hands on a 20D and shot a
dogs show, toured a bit of Washington DC, the National Aquarium,
the Reagan Building and did ISO noise tests using Program mode and
mainly default settings with both cameras. I just wanted to see
how each camera interpreted the exposure and WB out of the box,
also wanted to see noise and focus accuracy and speed.

I will post some images tomorrow.

Wendy
 
Hello Wendy,

I would just like to point out one thing, considering the noise levels. I was surprised that there would be a big difference att iso1600, when examples I've seen have indicated that there isn't any very big difference, although the d20 seems to be a little bit better in that aspect.

The thing I was thinking about was if you took into account the difference in under- and overexposing. You said that the canon overexposed and the minolta underexposed. This would give the canonimges a higher signal and thus less noise. It would perhaps be better to judge noise on similarly exposed pictures. I don't know if that was the case conserning the your high-iso pictures, but just a thought.

An iso1600 example from the d7 that i found :



-Thomas
Just one point, according to the manual, noise reduction is only
supposed to affect exposures longer than 1 second, and isn't
applied to continuous frame shooting. From a software point of
view, even if on, but not applicable, some processing in the chip
must take place, if only to recognise the set of conditions and to
decide whether to apply or not.

Only the software designer would know if this affceted other
porcessing, even if the set of conditions were negative.

I certainly shall try and see, when I have a little spare time, but
the soft images get very decently sharp with only a little PPing,
and I do like the control that this gives me.

If you were shooting fast moving images, I guess your shutter
speeds would be high, so perhaps AS doesn't have a great deal of
impact. A lot of my photos are slower, big depth of focus, small
aperture, and often in tricky light, so my experience to date is
rather more positive. But no-one said that the 7D was the camera
for every situation!

Good luck with your final choice.
Well, I felt I had to test both of these cameras in a number of
real-world situations so I could make my final decision on whether
teh KM 7D was for me or not, so I got my hands on a 20D and shot a
dogs show, toured a bit of Washington DC, the National Aquarium,
the Reagan Building and did ISO noise tests using Program mode and
mainly default settings with both cameras. I just wanted to see
how each camera interpreted the exposure and WB out of the box,
also wanted to see noise and focus accuracy and speed.

I will post some images tomorrow.

Wendy
 
I ask because
high ISO examples we have seen from the 7D have looked pretty good.
Besides that, I saw many 3200 samples from Canon and can't really say that they're acceptable for anything showing party pictures to friends on built-in LCD screen. :P Seriously, they're noisy, much better than previous generation of digicams and as noisy as my point-and-shoot shirtpocket camera at ISO400, but anyway, it's all hardly acceptable for any application.
 
I would just like to point out one thing, considering the noise
levels. I was surprised that there would be a big difference att
iso1600, when examples I've seen have indicated that there isn't
any very big difference, although the d20 seems to be a little bit
better in that aspect.
Since it was said that KM shots were underexposed I wonder if it was a cause of noise. It may be actually.

Second, 7D users, can you confirm that shutter is really loud? My film shutter sounds quiter than synthetic shutter sound from digicam...

Wendy, did you try to turn off shutter simulation sound? Sorry, for stupid question.
 
wendyorg wrote:
...
This was meant to report my findings, somewhat unscientific but an
expression of my experiences
That's why it is so valueable.
carrying around 2 cameras and shooting in many different situations
(any idea how hard it is to shoot fast-moving fish???)


Yepp! -but it's fun!, and you really need a dcam,
because many shoots will be of half a fish...
...
I felt that, since many agree that the technology
"isn't there yet", but we all know we gotta have a DSLR NOW, I wanted
to make sure for myself, that the money was being spent on a camera
I wanted to pick up, not one I dreaded picking up because of
inconsistent or sub-par results. This was done for me personally
and I had no idea which camera would "speak to me".
This will be different with each person
  • just like some people like one type of car,
and their friends wouldn't at all feel comfortable driving that kind.
...
I will post some images tomorrow.

Wendy
These are the kinds of information I think is important,
lots of other stuff can be read from the datasheets.

--
Cheers
Erland
 
Lastly, the only big problem I have with the 20D is that the one I
have appears to backfocus in certain situations. In my noise tests
(informal) I had the camera on a tripod with my husbands face
behind the AF point and he sat still while I shot at different
ISO's. At 200 ISO on the Canon, the shot looked to be backfocused
  • his ears were sharp, his face was not. ISO 100 and ISO 400 etc
were all fine. I know little about the problem, but now that I
have seen it for myself, I realize it is something I have never,
ever seen before with any camera I have used - it's a very weird
phenomenon.

I think the image noise at high ISO's was what has swayed me
towards the 20D, but on the other hand, unless I can get one that
doesn't back-focus, I would not be happy worrying about
unpredictable backfocusing results.

Does anyone know if it is a hit and miss thing within a camera model
or if one does it, they all do it? I have heard they can
re-calibrate the camera, but you would think they would start
turning out new lots with the corrections made by now. I did not
notice the KM doing any back-focusing, although in my tripod tests,
one KM picture was drastically out of focus when nothing had been
moved or changed.
SNIP
Wendy
Unlike on the 10D, there is no systemic problem with back-focussing on the 20D.

All the Canon cameraa models can have individual issues in their calibration with their lenses, and theway out of it is to send it in together with the lenses to Canon service, who turn it around very quickly, free of charge, and the problem is solved.

If you check on the 20D forum, you will see that this has sorted out the few who have had any issues.

I guess it may be inherent in the whole idea of having motors in the lenses, as it occurs across the Canon range, and some of the pros with a wide range of lensews and several bodies just routinely send in their gear when they buy any new equipment - it's just a bit of a PIA in not having the camera, but the tech problem is rapidly solved.

--
Regards,
DaveMart
Please see profile for equipment
 
7D manual says (page 77) that noise reduction is only aplied to images with 1 sec or longer exposures.
So noise reduction shoul not affect images with "normal" exposure times.
You mention that the 7D's ISO 1600 and 3200 were very noisy. In
another place you mentioned that you recommend turning off noise
reduction. I'm wondering if the reason ISO 1600 and 3200 were so
noisy was because you turned off noise reduction? I ask because
high ISO examples we have seen from the 7D have looked pretty good.

--
Henry Richardson
http://www.richardson.photoshare.co.nz/
http://www.printroom.com/pro/intrepid
--
Help us build 7D community: http://www.dyxum.com
7D, lens and flash reviews
 
The shutter noise is very quiet, probably inaudible at 10 feet.
I would just like to point out one thing, considering the noise
levels. I was surprised that there would be a big difference att
iso1600, when examples I've seen have indicated that there isn't
any very big difference, although the d20 seems to be a little bit
better in that aspect.
Since it was said that KM shots were underexposed I wonder if it
was a cause of noise. It may be actually.
Second, 7D users, can you confirm that shutter is really loud? My
film shutter sounds quiter than synthetic shutter sound from
digicam...
Wendy, did you try to turn off shutter simulation sound? Sorry, for
stupid question.
 
Wendy, you forgot one very important point in your comparison: The nice people in the MTF forum. I seriously looked for 20D but after some days browsing the Canon Forum, I tried to find all possible arguments to stay with KM and now ordered a 7D (after seeing all the great shots from Sol, José and others).

Think about it, before you leave. ;-))

Fritz
 
Most printers will dither that noise away to th epoint that's it's not visible. Here's a sample from Imaging Resources:

http://www.imaging-resource.com/PRODS/E20D/FULLRES/E20INI3200.HTM
I ask because
high ISO examples we have seen from the 7D have looked pretty good.
Besides that, I saw many 3200 samples from Canon and can't really
say that they're acceptable for anything showing party pictures to
friends on built-in LCD screen. :P Seriously, they're noisy, much
better than previous generation of digicams and as noisy as my
point-and-shoot shirtpocket camera at ISO400, but anyway, it's all
hardly acceptable for any application.
--
Arnold for President!

 
Save that pic to your hard drive and resize to 3000x2000 in order to compare to D7 output.
http://www.imaging-resource.com/PRODS/E20D/FULLRES/E20INI3200.HTM
I ask because
high ISO examples we have seen from the 7D have looked pretty good.
Besides that, I saw many 3200 samples from Canon and can't really
say that they're acceptable for anything showing party pictures to
friends on built-in LCD screen. :P Seriously, they're noisy, much
better than previous generation of digicams and as noisy as my
point-and-shoot shirtpocket camera at ISO400, but anyway, it's all
hardly acceptable for any application.
--
Arnold for President!

--
Arnold for President!

 
The plastic pics??
Well, I felt I had to test both of these cameras in a number of
real-world situations so I could make my final decision on whether
teh KM 7D was for me or not, so I got my hands on a 20D and shot a
dogs show, toured a bit of Washington DC, the National Aquarium,
the Reagan Building and did ISO noise tests using Program mode and
mainly default settings with both cameras. I just wanted to see
how each camera interpreted the exposure and WB out of the box,
also wanted to see noise and focus accuracy and speed.

I will post images tomorrow, it's 2 am and I need to go to bed, but
here are a couple of conclusions I have come to. All in all, both
are VERY GOOD cameras that anyone would be happy with. There are
just a few minor things that separate the two.

I love the way the Canon is so quiet - something I didn't think
would matter, but it does to me. There are many times you either
want to take a picture in a place that is very quiet or in a place
where you really aren't allowed to take pictures . The last thing
you want is the big kerflunk sound that comes from the KM shutter.
It sounds so weird that you keep thinking you are shooting at a
very slow shutter speed, but it's just the way it sounds. Also,
the 20D AF is so smooth and quiet, you keep wondering if it did
anything. KM can do the er-er-er-er in and out to hunt and it is
LOUD.

Indoors, KM is a little cool in it's AWB. Canon is a little warm,
towards yellow. Neither hit the WB right-on, so some adjustments
would be necessary for both. If I could not make adjustments and
had to shoot at default, Canon's warmth would be easier to live
with for me personally.

KM tends to underexpose a little, Canon, overexpose. Again,
adjustments can be made for this.

Noise. This is where I noticed the biggest differences. Both are
about equal till you reach 800 ISO, but even at 800, most could not
tell the difference - both are acceptable. But when you reach 1600
and 3200, the differences are huge. As might be expected, the 8mp
Canon has the ability to outdo the KM. At 1600, KM falls apart
with noise, and Canon still makes excellent images with almost no
noise. At 3200, KM is unacceptable, Canon still looks very good
and I would not hesitate to use 3200 if I needed to.

Camera shake - I did not seem to have a significantly higher # of
blurry pics from the Canon with no AS and no IS in the lens than I
did with AS on in the KM which surprised me. Focus, I probably had
a few more aquarium fish-swimming shots in focus with the Canon
than with the KM, but I got a few "winner" shots with both.

I do have one suggestion for those who feel the KM images are too
soft. Before you turn up the sharpness in the camera, try this:
turn OFF noise reduction. In my tests, I could see no reduction in
noise, but I did see a huge reduction is sharpness. I think it
ships with NR ON as a default, so turn it off and see what you
think. You will not see extra noise, but you will see sharper
details.

There was only one side-by-side shot that the KM resolved detail in
better. I was very impressed with that shot compared to the Canon.

Lastly, the only big problem I have with the 20D is that the one I
have appears to backfocus in certain situations. In my noise tests
(informal) I had the camera on a tripod with my husbands face
behind the AF point and he sat still while I shot at different
ISO's. At 200 ISO on the Canon, the shot looked to be backfocused
  • his ears were sharp, his face was not. ISO 100 and ISO 400 etc
were all fine. I know little about the problem, but now that I
have seen it for myself, I realize it is something I have never,
ever seen before with any camera I have used - it's a very weird
phenomenon.

I think the image noise at high ISO's was what has swayed me
towards the 20D, but on the other hand, unless I can get one that
doesn't back-focus, I would not be happy worrying about
unpredictable backfocusing results.

Does anyone know if it is a hit and miss thing within a camera model
or if one does it, they all do it? I have heard they can
re-calibrate the camera, but you would think they would start
turning out new lots with the corrections made by now. I did not
notice the KM doing any back-focusing, although in my tripod tests,
one KM picture was drastically out of focus when nothing had been
moved or changed.

This was meant to report my findings, somewhat unscientific but an
expression of my experiences carrying around 2 cameras and shooting
in many different situations (any idea how hard it is to shoot
fast-moving fish???) I felt that, since many agree that the
technology
"isn't there yet", but we all know we gotta have a DSLR NOW, I wanted
to make sure for myself, that the money was being spent on a camera
I wanted to pick up, not one I dreaded picking up because of
inconsistent or sub-par results. This was done for me personally
and I had no idea which camera would "speak to me". This will be
different with each person - just like some people like one type of
car, and their friends wouldn't at all feel comfortable driving
that kind. There is no one right or wrong answer, and both of
these cameras have given me excellent pictures. If I cannot get a
20D that doesn't back-focus, I will gladly stay with KM. I hope
some of this has helped some of you understand what differences I
have found and it may encourage you to try your own tests and
comparisons.

I will post some images tomorrow.

Wendy
--
Arnold for President!

 
All the tests I have done with various cameras - Minolta, Kodak, etc - indicate that the NR function is something which may come from a third party - perhaps a specialist firmware house, perhaps from Sony - and that in additional to making the 'subtractive noise' exposures for times longer than 1 second, it has a general function for reducing noise by mushing up the image so nothing can be recognised :-) Seriously - there is a small but substantial improvement in microcontrast and detail when NR is turned off, in RAW file exports, and there is a major improvement in significant detail if shooting to JPEG. Someone coined a term for the way NR affects details - 'squabbly' image. It just about gets the idea over straight off.
You mention that the 7D's ISO 1600 and 3200 were very noisy. In
another place you mentioned that you recommend turning off noise
reduction. I'm wondering if the reason ISO 1600 and 3200 were so
noisy was because you turned off noise reduction? I ask because
high ISO examples we have seen from the 7D have looked pretty good.

--
Henry Richardson
http://www.richardson.photoshare.co.nz/
http://www.printroom.com/pro/intrepid
--
Help us build 7D community: http://www.dyxum.com
7D, lens and flash reviews
 
Noise. This is where I noticed the biggest differences. Both are
about equal till you reach 800 ISO, but even at 800, most could not
tell the difference - both are acceptable. But when you reach 1600
and 3200, the differences are huge.
You should reserve judgment on this until Adobe CS RAW is implemented for D7D. The Canon has the immediate advantage of being convertible using the existing plugin. I have been using Dalibor's MRWFormat plugin, and the very last option in the custom interpolation settings (his own smooth gradient variant) produces a very clean edge contour combined with unusually low noise. The comparison between this and an in-camera JPEG is no contest; you would never shoot JPEG again! Canon's in-camera JPEGs use an exceptional level of smoothing, averaging each point out from 128 source pixels while I think Minolta's default uses a 64-pixel block from the RGGB Bayer pattern when calculating final image pixels. This gives Canon images a sort of plastic look, retaining sharp edges only because of fairly strong processing similar to Photoshop's 'Sharpen Edges' filter. If you want to study how that works, try running 'Sharpen Edges' three or four times on a detailed image, and you will see the fine detail (or scan grain) suddenly disappear while the edges of objects apparantly get clearer, though never more precise. Canon's in-camera processing is very clever, and hides a lot of the inherent noise, but lacks the residual resolution of very fine details which Minolta's CXProcess allows through - along with some inevitable noise. In theory the Canon 20D should outresolve the Minolta A2 just on the grounds of larger sensor; in practice, it's about 5 per cent worse than the EOS 1D Mk II, and about equal to the A2.

While the Canon RAW file can not be made noticeably smoother using Adobe CS RAW processing, Minolta's files probably can judging by the historic formats from Dimage models. MRWFormat processing indicates that the same will be possible when CS RAW is updated.
 
Noise. This is where I noticed the biggest differences. Both are
about equal till you reach 800 ISO, but even at 800, most could not
tell the difference - both are acceptable. But when you reach 1600
and 3200, the differences are huge.
You should reserve judgment on this until Adobe CS RAW is
implemented for D7D. The Canon has the immediate advantage of being
convertible using the existing plugin. I have been using Dalibor's
MRWFormat plugin, and the very last option in the custom
interpolation settings (his own smooth gradient variant) produces a
very clean edge contour combined with unusually low noise. The
comparison between this and an in-camera JPEG is no contest; you
would never shoot JPEG again! Canon's in-camera JPEGs use an
exceptional level of smoothing, averaging each point out from 128
source pixels while I think Minolta's default uses a 64-pixel block
from the RGGB Bayer pattern when calculating final image pixels.
This gives Canon images a sort of plastic look, retaining sharp
edges only because of fairly strong processing similar to
Photoshop's 'Sharpen Edges' filter. If you want to study how that
works, try running 'Sharpen Edges' three or four times on a
detailed image, and you will see the fine detail (or scan grain)
suddenly disappear while the edges of objects apparantly get
clearer, though never more precise. Canon's in-camera processing is
very clever, and hides a lot of the inherent noise, but lacks the
residual resolution of very fine details which Minolta's CXProcess
allows through - along with some inevitable noise.
Not according to the new Imaging Resources review. Noise reduction is NOT at the expense of fine detail in the 20D.
In theory the
Canon 20D should outresolve the Minolta A2 just on the grounds of
larger sensor; in practice, it's about 5 per cent worse than the
EOS 1D Mk II, and about equal to the A2.
According to whom? Phil's tests show identical resolution to the 1D Mk II.
While the Canon RAW file can not be made noticeably smoother using
Adobe CS RAW processing, Minolta's files probably can judging by
the historic formats from Dimage models. MRWFormat processing
indicates that the same will be possible when CS RAW is updated.
--
Arnold for President!

 
Wendy,

Lots of good info, but can't believe that a rigorous low light test would favor Canon.

In fact, AS and the quality of the User Interface, is what draws me to this camera. Any comments on the UI, KM vs Canon?

John
 

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