XT3 image cut when TimeLapse

[Mendimundi]

Hi

I use software 4.0.0 . Twice has happened that after a 1000 photos TL some of them are cut vertically as seen in the attached images (look at the very right of the second. The one that is correct is just the previous one). It corrects itself later, the first time after 300 photos and the second after 100. any ideas? where should I report this bug?

Thanks!



M.

 

[Bobo Hodls]

What does Software 4.0.0 have to do with the TL being captured?

Maybe I'm dense or just don't know that software. If that's what occurs directly out of camera, then a call to Fuji support to report what you're encountering would be the way to go.

I don't have that model, so can't compare TL notes.

 

[Mendimundi]

Hi, Bob

Thanks. I just wanted to say the Firmware (sorry) version of the camera is the 4.0.0. I guess this is the last one available.

M.

 

[Bobo Hodls]

Hi, Bob

Thanks. I just wanted to say the Firmware (sorry) version of the camera is the 4.0.0. I guess this is the last one available.

 

[crowley213]

Hi

I use software 4.0.0 . Twice has happened that after a 1000 photos TL some of them are cut vertically as seen in the attached images (look at the very right of the second. The one that is correct is just the previous one). It corrects itself later, the first time after 300 photos and the second after 100. any ideas? where should I report this bug?

Thanks!

M.

Hope you don't mind if I ask some questions upfront:

What time lapse settings did you use, means especially exposure time and interval?

Is it possible that your buffer filled up during the time lapse shooting?

Herbert

 

[Bobo Hodls]

Hi

I use software 4.0.0 . Twice has happened that after a 1000 photos TL some of them are cut vertically as seen in the attached images (look at the very right of the second. The one that is correct is just the previous one). It corrects itself later, the first time after 300 photos and the second after 100. any ideas? where should I report this bug?

Thanks!

M.

Hope you don't mind if I ask some questions upfront:

What time lapse settings did you use, means especially exposure time and interval?

Is it possible that your buffer filled up during the time lapse shooting?

That's one consdieration. I did wonder to myself later on, if creating new folders when the current fills might be a consideration, as well. ???

--
"Well, sometimes the magic works. . . Sometimes, it doesn't."
------ Chief Dan George, Little Big Man
@ bobtullis.com & flickr.com/photos/bobtullis
.
My opinions are my own and not those of DPR or its administration.

 

[Mendimundi]

Hi

Normally ISO fixed, 160, Aperture and Shutter Speed automatic (sometimes shutter speed fixed to 1" to 2"). A photo every 2 seconds. Yesterday I did another one with those very settings and all went well. It just happened twice but it can happened any time and don't know the reason.

Thanks

M.

 

[Mendimundi]

Hi, Bon

I those cases with the error no. All the images where in the same folder.

M.

 

[crowley213]

Hi

Normally ISO fixed, 160, Aperture and Shutter Speed automatic (sometimes shutter speed fixed to 1" to 2"). A photo every 2 seconds. Yesterday I did another one with those very settings and all went well. It just happened twice but it can happened any time and don't know the reason.

Thanks

M.

First of all, why would you set shutter speed and aperture in a time lapse shooting to automatic? Maybe it’s just me, but I set all exposure parameters manually, not to automatic, even shooting day to night time (and vice versa) transitions (holy grail). Shooting such time lapses you then either adjust the values manually, normally when the exposure changes around 1/3 of a stop, or you can use for example an app like qDslrDashboard (but that doesn’t work for Fuji). Setting such parameters to automatic will take away from you control over the exposure and most likely also introduce flicker.

Considering that the images you showed have been shot in normal light conditions it does even make less sense to put the parameters to automatic, manually set fixed parameters should (will) work without problems in here.

You have your interval set fix to 2 seconds, also when shooting with 1” or 2” exposure time and when having shutter speed set to automatic? That can cause different problems:

- you need to consider also camera related functional times into your interval, even this are just milliseconds (approx. 100-200 ms).

- your camera also needs time to save to the memory card, otherwise your buffer will run full

Personally I try to keep my interval time at least around 1 sec longer than my exposure time, even with a fast card (UHS-II), just to be on the safe side.

Last but not least, the interval timer shooting function in the X-T3 is not very sophisticated and has one major flaw: In between the shots you cannot see essential information like histogram and exposure values, you only see the scene preview (neither very exact to depend on such a pure visual preview and especially when you only can see it for fractions of a second). That’s the reason I got me an external intervalometer with way more functionalities and it enables the view of these essential informations in between the shots.

Finally, the cut image you show: What shutter speed and interval settings did you use in that sequence / specific shot(s)?

Herbert

 

[robert1955]

Hi

I use software 4.0.0 . Twice has happened that after a 1000 photos TL some of them are cut vertically as seen in the attached images (look at the very right of the second. The one that is correct is just the previous one). It corrects itself later, the first time after 300 photos and the second after 100. any ideas? where should I report this bug?

Thanks!

M.

Hope you don't mind if I ask some questions upfront:

What time lapse settings did you use, means especially exposure time and interval?

Is it possible that your buffer filled up during the time lapse shooting?

That's one consdieration. I did wonder to myself later on, if creating new folders when the current fills might be a consideration, as well. ???

A folder can contain 999 images. But it would be a 1 in 999 chance the time-lapse started at 001

Image dimensions aren't the same BTW, maybe the OP could share a pair not resized

I would not describe what happens as cut. A part of the scene that should be on the left [at middle height there is a jeans clad leg] is on the right. I can't tell whether it from the current image or the next one

 

[Mendimundi]

Hi, Bob

Images are not the same size since I did a screen shot so they might be slightly different but just to show the problem. About the folder, now in a folder fit 9999 images not 999 I think.

M.

 

[Mendimundi]

Hi, Herbert.

Thanks for all your tips.

I first set all the exposure parameters manually as you, but realized that in the day-night transitions had issues. from night to day the light was overexposed soon and the TL went from good exposure to overexposed before I wanted. I normally only set aperture to automatic and that gives me a smoothest transitions from night to day. I usually use angular lenses for TL so the depth of field changes that the diferentes apertures give are not noticeable. When I want movement objets to change their movement time during the TL I set the Shutter Speed to automatic too. So when there is still light you can still and recognize people but later the Shutter Speed changes to bigger lapses and you see moving objects. I like that. As you say flicker is a price you have to pay.

I Use a 128 gb Sandisk Extreme PRO SDXC II 300mb/s (3) (10) card but will follow you advice "keep my interval time at least around 1 sec longer than my exposure time"

About the intervalometer... Which one do you use?

In those specific shots the info is the same

2" between photos

ISO 160

Shutter Speed 1/8s

Aperture f4

Thanks

M.

 

[robert1955]

Hi, Bob

Images are not the same size since I did a screen shot so they might be slightly different but just to show the problem. About the folder, now in a folder fit 9999 images not 999 I think.

M.

[Robert here, don't mind being called Bob but as there is A Real Bob here as well, things might become confusing]

Screenshots OK, but the file dimensions in pixels are the same.

The folders are I think not relevant but for completeness sake: my current latest file is called DCSF7638, that looks like there could be 9999 in a folder, but it resides in folder 107_FUJI. DCSF8001 will be in folder 108_FUJI. The DCSF standard is rather dated.

 

[Mendimundi]

Well

I was answering Robert 1955 about if the sliced part was a part of the same photo or from the very fist part of the next one. I opened both photos in Capture One and when opened the sliced one opened well!! ¿? The same happened when opened in Photoshop!

So, the direct photo is wrong but when opened with a third progress it puzzles well again!

This are the images opened and processed in C1

What do you think? it is a kind of bug?



M.

 

[Mendimundi]

Hi, Robert

Sorry about the name.

See this answer I have posted.

https://www.dpreview.com/forums/post/64826595

M.

 

[robert1955]

Well

I was answering Robert 1955 about if the sliced part was a part of the same photo or from the very fist part of the next one. I opened both photos in Capture One and when opened the sliced one opened well!! ¿? The same happened when opened in Photoshop!

So, the direct photo is wrong but when opened with a third progress it puzzles well again!

This are the images opened and processed in C1

What do you think? it is a kind of bug?

M.

If I understand you correctly only the embedded preview shows a problem?

 

[Mendimundi]

Hi, Robert

The photo, while when it is done and you see it in the camera it is seen wrongly. When you pass the photo to a folder in the computer and you open it in preview it is seen wrongly too. If you use this photo to do a Time Lapse, in Final Cut for example, it is seen wrongly too. But, if you open it in Capture One or Photoshop you can see it correctly, just opening it.

M.

 

[boogisha]

A folder can contain 999 images.

About the folder, now in a folder fit 9999 images not 999 I think.

Yes, since firmware Ver.3.20 a folder can save up to 9,999 pictures.

That said, due to restrictions of the file system where operating a folder with many (a few thousand) images makes everything slower (previewing files in camera, at least), I now need to create a new folder manually, usually around a thousand images (twice the number of files, RAW + JPEG), so I`m not really sure this change was a good one.

 

[boogisha]

The photo, while when it is done and you see it in the camera it is seen wrongly. When you pass the photo to a folder in the computer and you open it in preview it is seen wrongly too. If you use this photo to do a Time Lapse, in Final Cut for example, it is seen wrongly too. But, if you open it in Capture One or Photoshop you can see it correctly, just opening it.

But which exact file are you eventually correctly opening in Capture One or Photoshop - the same JPEG file that is wrong when previewed in-camera and on computer...?

If it`s RAW file instead, then it could really be its embedded JPEG preview is corrupted (as probably original JPEG is, if you saved that one alongside RAW as well), so any application showing you RAW file embedded JPEG preview only will have you see a corrupted (JPEG) image. But once you open RAW inside Capture One or Photoshop (Camera Raw, I would assume), those show you real RAW data (ignoring embedded JPEG preview once RAW is fully loaded), and that one might still be fine.

If so, the corruption could have happened for whatever reason during the (JPEG?) image creation/writing process - but it could possibly be caused due to some SD card issue as well, so might be worth it to try with a different one, just for the sake of it.

That said, I did have a few writing errors with my X-T3 in the past (long before latest Ver.4.00 firmware) - might be twice it errored out on shutter button full press (single photo), but as I use both SD card slots in backup mode one of the cards did have the photo (the failed one didn`t).

Also, it happened once that a few images in a burst series were corrupt - good part of the image holding garbage, sometimes even a part of the other photo, as you have here... which I was aware after the fact only, on reviewing them on computer, as there was no indication in camera at the time. I don`t remember exactly now, but I _think_ the RAW files were fine back then as well, but I still had the same (and non-corrupted) JPEG + RAW files on the backup card, so I just took everything from there.

p.s. I did take some 17k+ photos with my X-T3 so far (for a bit more than two years), and even though I suspected (the older) one of the SD cards myself back at the times, having it happen in a few occasions only, and especially as the backup SD card did the job it was meant to, I wasn`t concerned with the issues much.

 

[Mendimundi]

The photo, while when it is done and you see it in the camera it is seen wrongly. When you pass the photo to a folder in the computer and you open it in preview it is seen wrongly too. If you use this photo to do a Time Lapse, in Final Cut for example, it is seen wrongly too. But, if you open it in Capture One or Photoshop you can see it correctly, just opening it.

But which exact file are you eventually correctly opening in Capture One or Photoshop - the same JPEG file that is wrong when previewed in-camera and on computer...?

If it`s RAW file instead, then it could really be its embedded JPEG preview is corrupted (as probably original JPEG is, if you saved that one alongside RAW as well), so any application showing you RAW file embedded JPEG preview only will have you see a corrupted (JPEG) image. But once you open RAW inside Capture One or Photoshop (Camera Raw, I would assume), those show you real RAW data (ignoring embedded JPEG preview once RAW is fully loaded), and that one might still be fine.

If so, the corruption could have happened for whatever reason during the (JPEG?) image creation/writing process - but it could possibly be caused due to some SD card issue as well, so might be worth it to try with a different one, just for the sake of it.

That said, I did have a few writing errors with my X-T3 in the past (long before latest Ver.4.00 firmware) - might be twice it errored out on shutter button full press (single photo), but as I use both SD card slots in backup mode one of the cards did have the photo (the failed one didn`t).

Also, it happened once that a few images in a burst series were corrupt - good part of the image holding garbage, sometimes even a part of the other photo, as you have here... which I was aware after the fact only, on reviewing them on computer, as there was no indication in camera at the time. I don`t remember exactly now, but I _think_ the RAW files were fine back then as well, but I still had the same (and non-corrupted) JPEG + RAW files on the backup card, so I just took everything from there.

p.s. I did take some 17k+ photos with my X-T3 so far (for a bit more than two years), and even though I suspected (the older) one of the SD cards myself back at the times, having it happen in a few occasions only, and especially as the backup SD card did the job it was meant to, I wasn`t concerned with the issues much.

Hi, Boogisha

Yes, the same exact file that in the camera screen and in the preview once downloaded is wrong opens ok in C1 and Ph. In Time Lapses I only take jpg, so no Raw available to check.

M.