Want to know how to best use the VueScan scanning software

[dandydon1]

Hi,

I am currently using an Epson V850 flatbed scanner. I scan 120 slides and color negatives. I have 3 scanning software, Epson Scan, SilverFast 8 Ai Studio, Vuescan Pro. I think I can get fairly good results consistanly except Vuescan Pro.

My strategy is to do it right while I stay with scanning software, and to minimize post-scan edits where possible. For that purpose, I need to finalize the comparative analysis, and design my digitalization workflow adopting the selected scanning software tool.

I tried a dng raw scan and convert/edit processes with Negative Lab Pro or ColorPerfect; however, the processes involved were complicated and time consuming while the results were mediocre compared to the scan output from either Silverfast or Epson Scan.

Honestly, I have never gotten any satisfactory output from Vuescan in terms of color. Particularly with color negative films such as Kodak Ektar 100. I read Vuescan manual and googled others' use cases. I did explore an every option for color balnce settings and the targeted film stock settings. Now I am almost giving up Vuescan option. Here I am asking help from the Vuescan users how they use it as a comprehensive scanning & editing tool. If they use it as a scanning software only, then what would be the best practices for post-scan activities?

Thanks!

 

[sybersitizen]

Why fight it if you're getting good results with the other tools? Using VueScan was unavoidable for me because it's needed for the non-Epson film scanners I've owned. After a lot of experimentation I've refined a process that satisfies me, but if I were doing everything with my Epson flatbed I would never have bought third-party scanning software at all.

 

[Gesture]

I agree.

There is a book available on VueScan.

It does take some work, i.e. patience and experimentation, to handle the Color Tab. Actually, I think Epson Scan is quite good. There is plenty of power in the Professional Mode.

 

[dandydon1]

I am about to delete Vuescan program from my PC. Thanks for your input.

 

[rpjallan]

I would just stick with using Silverfast if you already have it…

 

[dandydon1]

Thanks for your advice.

 

[Overrank]

I am about to delete Vuescan program from my PC. Thanks for your input.

If you haven’t already you might want to keep it in case you ever want to use a camera to digitise your negatives, as VueScan can invert the negatives (although if you’re unhappy with the colours this might not be a big plus !)

 

[dandydon1]

Thank you for your valid suggestion. I will further search other stories who are satisfied with VueScan.

 

[Trevor Sowers]

Hi,

I am currently using an Epson V850 flatbed scanner. I scan 120 slides and color negatives. I have 3 scanning software, Epson Scan, SilverFast 8 Ai Studio, Vuescan Pro. I think I can get fairly good results consistanly except Vuescan Pro.

My strategy is to do it right while I stay with scanning software, and to minimize post-scan edits where possible. For that purpose, I need to finalize the comparative analysis, and design my digitalization workflow adopting the selected scanning software tool.

I tried a dng raw scan and convert/edit processes with Negative Lab Pro or ColorPerfect; however, the processes involved were complicated and time consuming while the results were mediocre compared to the scan output from either Silverfast or Epson Scan.

Honestly, I have never gotten any satisfactory output from Vuescan in terms of color. Particularly with color negative films such as Kodak Ektar 100. I read Vuescan manual and googled others' use cases. I did explore an every option for color balnce settings and the targeted film stock settings. Now I am almost giving up Vuescan option. Here I am asking help from the Vuescan users how they use it as a comprehensive scanning & editing tool. If they use it as a scanning software only, then what would be the best practices for post-scan activities?

Thanks!

I scan mostly slide film and I find that scanners do a bad job of seeing into the shadows. I have recently been playing with using my DSLR with a macro lens and a speedlite to illuminate the film and the difference in shadow detail is immense and I'm having a much easier time getting colours that I like.

 

[dandydon1]

Hi,

I am currently using an Epson V850 flatbed scanner. I scan 120 slides and color negatives. I have 3 scanning software, Epson Scan, SilverFast 8 Ai Studio, Vuescan Pro. I think I can get fairly good results consistanly except Vuescan Pro.

My strategy is to do it right while I stay with scanning software, and to minimize post-scan edits where possible. For that purpose, I need to finalize the comparative analysis, and design my digitalization workflow adopting the selected scanning software tool.

I tried a dng raw scan and convert/edit processes with Negative Lab Pro or ColorPerfect; however, the processes involved were complicated and time consuming while the results were mediocre compared to the scan output from either Silverfast or Epson Scan.

Honestly, I have never gotten any satisfactory output from Vuescan in terms of color. Particularly with color negative films such as Kodak Ektar 100. I read Vuescan manual and googled others' use cases. I did explore an every option for color balnce settings and the targeted film stock settings. Now I am almost giving up Vuescan option. Here I am asking help from the Vuescan users how they use it as a comprehensive scanning & editing tool. If they use it as a scanning software only, then what would be the best practices for post-scan activities?

Thanks!

I scan mostly slide film and I find that scanners do a bad job of seeing into the shadows. I have recently been playing with using my DSLR with a macro lens and a speedlite to illuminate the film and the difference in shadow detail is immense and I'm having a much easier time getting colours that I like.

I did try a scanning with Sony A7r3(pixel shift mode) with Voigtlander 65mm macro APO Lanther. However, I couldn't make the front surface of the lens parallel to the copy stand base due to heavy weight of my camera & macro lens. The camera moved constantly. It was a nightmare to me. So I gave up camera scanning solution.

 

[Overrank]

Hi,

I am currently using an Epson V850 flatbed scanner. I scan 120 slides and color negatives. I have 3 scanning software, Epson Scan, SilverFast 8 Ai Studio, Vuescan Pro. I think I can get fairly good results consistanly except Vuescan Pro.

My strategy is to do it right while I stay with scanning software, and to minimize post-scan edits where possible. For that purpose, I need to finalize the comparative analysis, and design my digitalization workflow adopting the selected scanning software tool.

I tried a dng raw scan and convert/edit processes with Negative Lab Pro or ColorPerfect; however, the processes involved were complicated and time consuming while the results were mediocre compared to the scan output from either Silverfast or Epson Scan.

Honestly, I have never gotten any satisfactory output from Vuescan in terms of color. Particularly with color negative films such as Kodak Ektar 100. I read Vuescan manual and googled others' use cases. I did explore an every option for color balnce settings and the targeted film stock settings. Now I am almost giving up Vuescan option. Here I am asking help from the Vuescan users how they use it as a comprehensive scanning & editing tool. If they use it as a scanning software only, then what would be the best practices for post-scan activities?

Thanks!

I scan mostly slide film and I find that scanners do a bad job of seeing into the shadows. I have recently been playing with using my DSLR with a macro lens and a speedlite to illuminate the film and the difference in shadow detail is immense and I'm having a much easier time getting colours that I like.

I did try a scanning with Sony A7r3(pixel shift mode) with Voigtlander 65mm macro APO Lanther. However, I couldn't make the front surface of the lens parallel to the copy stand base due to heavy weight of my camera & macro lens. The camera moved constantly. It was a nightmare to me. So I gave up camera scanning solution.

If you’re scanning 120 on a V850 you’re not losing much, if anything, in using a scanner vs a camera in terms of resolution. For 35mm the smaller size of the negative will give a camera a resolution advantage over a V850 flatbed. (This is assuming 6x6 or larger negs and using a single shot for the camera)

 

[dandydon1]

Hi,

I am currently using an Epson V850 flatbed scanner. I scan 120 slides and color negatives. I have 3 scanning software, Epson Scan, SilverFast 8 Ai Studio, Vuescan Pro. I think I can get fairly good results consistanly except Vuescan Pro.

My strategy is to do it right while I stay with scanning software, and to minimize post-scan edits where possible. For that purpose, I need to finalize the comparative analysis, and design my digitalization workflow adopting the selected scanning software tool.

I tried a dng raw scan and convert/edit processes with Negative Lab Pro or ColorPerfect; however, the processes involved were complicated and time consuming while the results were mediocre compared to the scan output from either Silverfast or Epson Scan.

Honestly, I have never gotten any satisfactory output from Vuescan in terms of color. Particularly with color negative films such as Kodak Ektar 100. I read Vuescan manual and googled others' use cases. I did explore an every option for color balnce settings and the targeted film stock settings. Now I am almost giving up Vuescan option. Here I am asking help from the Vuescan users how they use it as a comprehensive scanning & editing tool. If they use it as a scanning software only, then what would be the best practices for post-scan activities?

Thanks!

I scan mostly slide film and I find that scanners do a bad job of seeing into the shadows. I have recently been playing with using my DSLR with a macro lens and a speedlite to illuminate the film and the difference in shadow detail is immense and I'm having a much easier time getting colours that I like.

I did try a scanning with Sony A7r3(pixel shift mode) with Voigtlander 65mm macro APO Lanther. However, I couldn't make the front surface of the lens parallel to the copy stand base due to heavy weight of my camera & macro lens. The camera moved constantly. It was a nightmare to me. So I gave up camera scanning solution.

If you’re scanning 120 on a V850 you’re not losing much, if anything, in using a scanner vs a camera in terms of resolution. For 35mm the smaller size of the negative will give a camera a resolution advantage over a V850 flatbed. (This is assuming 6x6 or larger negs and using a single shot for the camera)

Yes, I am aware of that. I may have to buy a dedicated film scanner for 35mm only.

Thanks!

 

[Overrank]

Hi,

I am currently using an Epson V850 flatbed scanner. I scan 120 slides and color negatives. I have 3 scanning software, Epson Scan, SilverFast 8 Ai Studio, Vuescan Pro. I think I can get fairly good results consistanly except Vuescan Pro.

My strategy is to do it right while I stay with scanning software, and to minimize post-scan edits where possible. For that purpose, I need to finalize the comparative analysis, and design my digitalization workflow adopting the selected scanning software tool.

I tried a dng raw scan and convert/edit processes with Negative Lab Pro or ColorPerfect; however, the processes involved were complicated and time consuming while the results were mediocre compared to the scan output from either Silverfast or Epson Scan.

Honestly, I have never gotten any satisfactory output from Vuescan in terms of color. Particularly with color negative films such as Kodak Ektar 100. I read Vuescan manual and googled others' use cases. I did explore an every option for color balnce settings and the targeted film stock settings. Now I am almost giving up Vuescan option. Here I am asking help from the Vuescan users how they use it as a comprehensive scanning & editing tool. If they use it as a scanning software only, then what would be the best practices for post-scan activities?

Thanks!

I scan mostly slide film and I find that scanners do a bad job of seeing into the shadows. I have recently been playing with using my DSLR with a macro lens and a speedlite to illuminate the film and the difference in shadow detail is immense and I'm having a much easier time getting colours that I like.

I did try a scanning with Sony A7r3(pixel shift mode) with Voigtlander 65mm macro APO Lanther. However, I couldn't make the front surface of the lens parallel to the copy stand base due to heavy weight of my camera & macro lens. The camera moved constantly. It was a nightmare to me. So I gave up camera scanning solution.

If you’re scanning 120 on a V850 you’re not losing much, if anything, in using a scanner vs a camera in terms of resolution. For 35mm the smaller size of the negative will give a camera a resolution advantage over a V850 flatbed. (This is assuming 6x6 or larger negs and using a single shot for the camera)

Yes, I am aware of that. I may have to buy a dedicated film scanner for 35mm only.

Thanks!

You may also want to look at the Nikon ES-2 which will solve your issues with keeping the film parallel to the sensor plane . I tried it on my Nikon D610 and wasn’t happy with it, but focussing may be simpler on a mirrorless camera. In the end I went back to my film scanner, but YMMV.

 

[sybersitizen]

... I may have to buy a dedicated film scanner for 35mm only.

You may also want to look at the Nikon ES-2 which will solve your issues with keeping the film parallel to the sensor plane . I tried it on my Nikon D610 and wasn’t happy with it, but focussing may be simpler on a mirrorless camera. In the end I went back to my film scanner, but YMMV.

In the end end you said you stopped scanning entirely and instead rely on lab scans, right?

Loading…

www.dpreview.com

 

[Overrank]

... I may have to buy a dedicated film scanner for 35mm only.

You may also want to look at the Nikon ES-2 which will solve your issues with keeping the film parallel to the sensor plane . I tried it on my Nikon D610 and wasn’t happy with it, but focussing may be simpler on a mirrorless camera. In the end I went back to my film scanner, but YMMV.

In the end end you said you stopped scanning entirely and instead rely on lab scans, right?

https://www.dpreview.com/forums/post/65848413

Yes. I still have my scanners but 99% of my scans are lab scans. I only use my scanner to rescan, such as when I’m experimenting with something ( like here https://www.dpreview.com/forums/post/65761678 with DarkTable).

 

[dandydon1]

... I may have to buy a dedicated film scanner for 35mm only.

You may also want to look at the Nikon ES-2 which will solve your issues with keeping the film parallel to the sensor plane . I tried it on my Nikon D610 and wasn’t happy with it, but focussing may be simpler on a mirrorless camera. In the end I went back to my film scanner, but YMMV.

In the end end you said you stopped scanning entirely and instead rely on lab scans, right?

https://www.dpreview.com/forums/post/65848413

No, I won't stop scanning entirely. I will put a higher priority on the 35mm films over 120 format films for the time being. A Minolta DiMAGE Scanner(5400) is scheduled to arrive home by mid March. I hope the Minolta dedicated film scanner will prove the 35mm films backed up by the Minolta scanner are superior to the 120 films & Epson flatbed scanner combo in terms of resolution & sharpness. We will see.

 

[sybersitizen]

... I may have to buy a dedicated film scanner for 35mm only.

You may also want to look at the Nikon ES-2 which will solve your issues with keeping the film parallel to the sensor plane . I tried it on my Nikon D610 and wasn’t happy with it, but focussing may be simpler on a mirrorless camera. In the end I went back to my film scanner, but YMMV.

In the end end you said you stopped scanning entirely and instead rely on lab scans, right?

https://www.dpreview.com/forums/post/65848413

No, I won't stop scanning entirely. I will put a higher priority on the 35mm films over 120 format films for the time being. A Minolta DiMAGE Scanner(5400) is scheduled to arrive home by mid March. I hope the Minolta dedicated film scanner will prove the 35mm films backed up by the Minolta scanner are superior to the 120 films & Epson flatbed scanner combo in terms of resolution & sharpness. We will see.

Scanning 120 with a high end flatbed means you can get around 24MP of useful resolution, which is probably close to the detail that the film contains. Scanning 35 with a high end film scanner gives you huge pixel resolution of 24MP or more, but it's highly questionable as to whether there's actually anything to be found in the film beyond 12MP.

Another practical factor is the gear with which the film was shot. The maximum resolution of a piece of film is just academic if the camera and lens haven't actually captured it.

 

[Overrank]

Another practical factor is the gear with which the film was shot. The maximum resolution of a piece of film is just academic if the camera and lens haven't actually captured it.

That’s a really good point - many people scan their old negs taken on low end equipment on grainy film in the 1980s and are shocked how bad they are compared to images taken on digital cameras with computer designed lenses. Of course if you use the same lenses on modern film cameras with modern film you can be pleasantly surprised.

 

[dandydon1]

... I may have to buy a dedicated film scanner for 35mm only.

You may also want to look at the Nikon ES-2 which will solve your issues with keeping the film parallel to the sensor plane . I tried it on my Nikon D610 and wasn’t happy with it, but focussing may be simpler on a mirrorless camera. In the end I went back to my film scanner, but YMMV.

In the end end you said you stopped scanning entirely and instead rely on lab scans, right?

https://www.dpreview.com/forums/post/65848413

No, I won't stop scanning entirely. I will put a higher priority on the 35mm films over 120 format films for the time being. A Minolta DiMAGE Scanner(5400) is scheduled to arrive home by mid March. I hope the Minolta dedicated film scanner will prove the 35mm films backed up by the Minolta scanner are superior to the 120 films & Epson flatbed scanner combo in terms of resolution & sharpness. We will see.

Scanning 120 with a high end flatbed means you can get around 24MP of useful resolution, which is probably close to the detail that the film contains. Scanning 35 with a high end film scanner gives you huge pixel resolution of 24MP or more, but it's highly questionable as to whether there's actually anything to be found in the film beyond 12MP.

Another practical factor is the gear with which the film was shot. The maximum resolution of a piece of film is just academic if the camera and lens haven't actually captured it.

Yes, you may be right. Scanning 35mm films with a 5400(effective 4200) dpi resolution scanner would produce lots of interpolated data, which means we don't need to scan with a setting of maximum resolution. I am not sure whether my interpretation is reasonable or not.

 

[Overrank]

... I may have to buy a dedicated film scanner for 35mm only.

You may also want to look at the Nikon ES-2 which will solve your issues with keeping the film parallel to the sensor plane . I tried it on my Nikon D610 and wasn’t happy with it, but focussing may be simpler on a mirrorless camera. In the end I went back to my film scanner, but YMMV.

In the end end you said you stopped scanning entirely and instead rely on lab scans, right?

https://www.dpreview.com/forums/post/65848413

No, I won't stop scanning entirely. I will put a higher priority on the 35mm films over 120 format films for the time being. A Minolta DiMAGE Scanner(5400) is scheduled to arrive home by mid March. I hope the Minolta dedicated film scanner will prove the 35mm films backed up by the Minolta scanner are superior to the 120 films & Epson flatbed scanner combo in terms of resolution & sharpness. We will see.

Scanning 120 with a high end flatbed means you can get around 24MP of useful resolution, which is probably close to the detail that the film contains. Scanning 35 with a high end film scanner gives you huge pixel resolution of 24MP or more, but it's highly questionable as to whether there's actually anything to be found in the film beyond 12MP.

Another practical factor is the gear with which the film was shot. The maximum resolution of a piece of film is just academic if the camera and lens haven't actually captured it.

Yes, you may be right. Scanning 35mm films with a 5400(effective 4200) dpi resolution scanner would produce lots of interpolated data, which means we don't need to scan with a setting of maximum resolution. I am not sure whether my interpretation is reasonable or not.

You will probably find that to get 4200ppi resolution you will need to scan at a slight greater resolution e.g. the 5400 was measured here https://www.dpreview.com/forums/post/64917020 at around 4000ppi but there were features that were dependent on the lineup between the scanner head and the target. Elsewhere on that thread there are MTFs measured for various scanners and for the film scanners they give higher resolutions than were obtainable through the target. I would expect the MTF resolution of the Minolta to be be closer to the 5400ppi value.

The DiMAGE is seen as being an exceptional scanner in terms of resolution and people have used the scanner lens for macro photography ( https://www.closeuphotography.com/minolta-dimage-scan-elite-5400-lens/ ) with better results than with a normal macro lens.