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Tips to get cleanest, sharpest images with NEX?
- Thread starter peruchox
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Mel Snyder
Senior Member
1. Shoot at sensor native ISO. For the NEX-6, that's ISO 100
2. Shoot 2-3 stops smaller than the maximum aperture
3. Get rid of all "UV" and similar filters that effectively protect you from getting those results.
4. Use lens hoods on all your lenses. Off-axis light, especially sunlight and spots, degrades contrast even on the best primes, and is awful on zooms. Zoom makers know that, and provide those big ugly tulip hoods with their lenses. Guess why. Sony didn't provide one with their PZ - which explains much of the poor results many get with it. A good one costs about $8 on eBay.
5. Learn how to hand-hold your camera at 1/6th second, or use a tripod for all speeds under 1/100th. If you can't take good images at 1/6th, where camera motion is clear, it's likely at 1/100th where you can't
6. Manually focus every shot. Don't depend on AF of any kind. At best, it's a compromise, and at worst, focuses on the background of small subjects.
You have some of the sharpest lenses made for the NEX (no thanks to Sony), but the idiots at Sony, who have almost no experience with serious still photography and thought the NEX was a cute little upgrade for P&S fans, left IBIS off the camera (although their buyout of Minolta gave them the patents to sensor-shift IBIS). That means you either need to use a tripod (which is the way to get ultimate sharpness with any camera) or use high shutter speeds, which requires high ISO in some cases. Fortunately Sony sensors tolerate high ISO quite well.
S
Sonyshine
Guest
As with all cameras - take control - so no auto - shoot raw if you can do PP, jpeg if not - make the most of available light - f5.6-f8 are common sweet spots for many lenses - keep the speed up and raise the ISO if you need to...
...but here is no substitution for getting out there and shooting, shooting, shooting.....you will learn far more that way.
...but here is no substitution for getting out there and shooting, shooting, shooting.....you will learn far more that way.
The advice to use manual focus was more relevant when good, clear optical finders & good focussing screens were the norm. EVF & LCDs do not lend themselves to precise manual focus although the NEX magnified image is a good aid.
AF works well provided that the user recognises the circumstances when it is likely to get confused - low light , low contrast or an area within the focus target where both the intended target background have similar high contrast areas. A good compromise is to use AF but with DMF ( direct manual focus) switched on .
A light touch on the focus ring will bring up a magnified image which will enable the photographer to fine tune focus if that is needed, This can be particularly useful when focussing up close as an area of critical focus can be judged more easily by eye than by the camera which cannot discriminate on focus within a narrow DOF zone. It is important to have the EVF dioptre adjustment correct in order to give a clear focussed VF image.
If you want to see the sweetspots for a few NEX lenses including Sigma 19/30, Photozone has some plots from Imatest. They are closer to wide open than you might expect, but then again you might want more DOF.
I try to shoot at reasonable ISOs, usually 400 or less if the situation allows but don't get too stressed if I have to go up to 1600. You can even clean up a 3200 reasonably well.
For post processing, I use LR with lens profiles and adequate (> default 25) capture sharpening and I try to limit NR if I don't need it. Judicious use of masking under sharpening helps a lot especially when you have lots of blue skies.
I try to shoot at reasonable ISOs, usually 400 or less if the situation allows but don't get too stressed if I have to go up to 1600. You can even clean up a 3200 reasonably well.
For post processing, I use LR with lens profiles and adequate (> default 25) capture sharpening and I try to limit NR if I don't need it. Judicious use of masking under sharpening helps a lot especially when you have lots of blue skies.
expireduser
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Shoot those Sigmas at f/5.6. Shoot in raw, 100 iso. 200 is fine too.
Other than that, just usual photo rules appy... Shutter speed quick enough for camera shake and/or subject movement, exposure done reasonably correct, avoid lens flare, focus properly (AF or manual, whatever gets you there)...
Other than that, just usual photo rules appy... Shutter speed quick enough for camera shake and/or subject movement, exposure done reasonably correct, avoid lens flare, focus properly (AF or manual, whatever gets you there)...
expireduser
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F5.6 is pretty much the sweet spot in terms of center sharpness and corner sharpness. You'll have to make your own decisions regarding diffraction vs DOF compromise. 
using "focus peeking" set to bright yellow helps a great deal on manual focus as well .. very effective in many cases
1) Use a tripod. The heavier and more solid the better.
2) Use base ISO.
3) Spot focus (not tap-the-screen-tracking-focus) or manual focus with peaking set on "low". Personally, I think the camera's CDAF often does a superior job than even manual focus if you constrain it to exactly what you want as your peak target.
4) Use a remote, and use 2-second delay (the NEX forces the shot even if not entirely in focus, so the 2-second delay ensures that the camera has time to reach focus). Or just use 2-second delay on the camera. Personally, I think the remote is superior because touching the camera on a typical tripod often introduces slight vibrations that may take more than 2-seconds to completely resolve... and at the same time you're asking the camera to focus during the time it might still be vibrating.
5) Shoot at the sweet spot of the lens, which would be f/5.6 for the lenses in question, or go stop down as far as f/8 if the composition benefits from it.
6) ETTR (Expose To The Right) as far as you can without blowing the highlights, then take it down to where you want to be in PP.
7) If the scene is truly static, take multiples exposures and blend in PP. Noise is a random function that averages itself away given enough samplings.
8) Keep the sensor cool/cold without introducing other problems. The Exmor sensor architecture runs hot, and heat adds signal noise. This is something you might notice if you take lots of consecutive long exposures. So keep that camera off until you really need it. When I know I'm going to do lots of tripodded serious shooting, I lift the LCD off of the camera body to give the back of the sensor some air space. Astrophotographers even build Peltier cooling boxes to encompass the entire camera to this end. Of course, if you *really* cool your camera through creative means, you might start introducing some other issues, like condensation.
9) Don't use a crappy filter. If you need to use a filter (polarizer, gradient, ND, , big stopper, protector, etc.), be sure it is of a fine quality. It always amuses me when people make blanket statements dismissing an entire class of items whose price varies between $2-$500, and are made by manufacturers as varied as no-names, to as vaunted as Carl Zeiss and Schneider (these are just the well-known to the plebes). I think it makes themselves feel better when they can justify their own choices when they try to dismiss others as stupid and misguided... which is quite amusing when the supposedly stupid and misguided are actually the ones in the position to assess first-hand whether these items cause a noticeable detrimental effect. I mean, they can put it on and take it off, right? Without even moving the camera! They must've never done that!
Of course, no filter is theoretically better than any filter, but a good filter often makes no practical difference. And often, the right filter(s!) can make the difference between a ho-hum photo versus one to give Galen Rowell a run for his money. Oh, I forgot... it's about 100% crops and resolution machines. Couldn't ever be about controlling/manipulating light or enabling yourself to get to interestingly hazardous places without feeling like you have to cradle your gear.
What will the cleanest image of any trite subject bring you?
So, please tell us what extraordinary pictures you have in mind and in your memory of needing to be taken in their sharpest and cleanest rendition way.
Sharp images of nothing worth seeing are some of the sadest nothings ... to shoot.
Technique and gear contribute only about 1/3 to the quality of an image, the other two thirds are made up of light, seeing, discovering a worthy image and good luck and eye in composition and framing.
So: using these well meant and helpful hints will obviously let you shoot technically good pics, but only pics for the delete bin if the other 2/3rd are missing. And you have those in 'spades', right; no need to worry then ... . Vision, artistry and light; right?
So, please tell us what extraordinary pictures you have in mind and in your memory of needing to be taken in their sharpest and cleanest rendition way.
Sharp images of nothing worth seeing are some of the sadest nothings ... to shoot.
Technique and gear contribute only about 1/3 to the quality of an image, the other two thirds are made up of light, seeing, discovering a worthy image and good luck and eye in composition and framing.
So: using these well meant and helpful hints will obviously let you shoot technically good pics, but only pics for the delete bin if the other 2/3rd are missing. And you have those in 'spades', right; no need to worry then ... . Vision, artistry and light; right?
I think that you erroneously think there is some disagreement with your sentiments. There isn't.
However, it is entirely obvious that you've wandered into the wrong thread. This isn't the "how can I take a better picture" thread, but rather the "tips to get cleanest, sharpest images with NEX" thread. (It's over the entrance, ya know?)
So how about starting that separate "how can I take a better picture" thread? I think with as much opinion as you obviously have on the subject, you should be able to make great contributions to better the SNR in these forums, right?
However, it is entirely obvious that you've wandered into the wrong thread. This isn't the "how can I take a better picture" thread, but rather the "tips to get cleanest, sharpest images with NEX" thread. (It's over the entrance, ya know?)
So how about starting that separate "how can I take a better picture" thread? I think with as much opinion as you obviously have on the subject, you should be able to make great contributions to better the SNR in these forums, right?
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Lightshow
Veteran Member
Did you even take the time to see what images he's uploaded to his gallery? I don't think he has a problem seeing compositions, infact I wouldn't be surprised if his portfolio is orders of magnitude better than yours, prove me wrong and post a link to your stuff.
They do when you use peaking, which is better than any focussing aid I have used in SLRs.
I like to learn step by step instead of trying to learn everything at once then put them together in real life.
The same way some people want to know how to get blurry backgrounds (bokeh), I would like to know how to get the the sharpest pictures as well specially with these types of cameras.
Don't think that will happen mate, have you looked at his one joined shot in his gallery
Can't even find the horizon line or get rid of purple corners !!If visionary is his thing, he should try to visualise with both eyes open. Just ignore him. Look at his history = nutter ;-)
Danny.
--
http://www.birdsinaction.com
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The Sigma 30 is pretty sharp even at f2.8, but it's better stopped down a bit. With most lenses, I'll make the blanket statement that f8 is a good target if you have no other specific information on a lens.
You mentioned landscapes in another message? I wouldn't go over f11, as you'll get softer images due to diffraction. I doubt you need to go over f8 or f9 most of the time, due to the hyperfocal distance, unless you're also trying to focus on something closer.
A check with a DOF calculator shows me that with the 30mm lens on an NEX-7, at f5.6 focusing on an object that is 50 feet away, then everything from 17.2 feet to infinity should be in focus. So for it will really depend on how much of the foreground you want in focus for landscapes.
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