Stacking HDR images

oneofone25

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So, I have always just used the focus bracketing feature that comes with Olympus/OM System cameras, or, used OM Capture of another program to manually bracketing images while the camera is in High Resolution Mode which produces 80MP images.

I get excellent results either way, but a larger file with the high resolution mode and slightly additional detail which is useful when I’m cropping the 4:1 image down to 1mm or so for 95% of my images (sand grain photos rule the day for me)

…so I decided to try using the HDR Mode on my Olympus EM1 Mark 3 with the computer program I had made, which moves the focus (brackets) whatever picture mode I’m using. So it’s working on a stack right now, of a dental bur. Not going to do anything but stack the images, and then I’ll post comparing the stack to a high resolution (80mp) stack of the same number of images, and also a regular focus bracketed stack of 20mp JPEGs.
I am shooting with the 90mm Olympus Pro macro lens along with the MC-20 teleconverter at 4:1 magnification for the comparison. If anyone wants me to NOT use the teleconverter let me know and I’ll do another set without and just at 2:1.

images to come shortly….
 
Alright, so first, a regular focus bracket of over 100 images, bracketed at 4:1 and stacked in Helicon, method C. Each image here in this post is 4.3mm field of view

5c159bf9d3614ad49f771ac8d5041158.jpg


next, the HDR image. Stacked around 100 images





d008aac93891422ab9374fea711d6865.jpg


and last, the high resolution mode stack of 95 total images each 80mp each



View attachment 8b465441670b4ad6aa36a75e1dbfd655.jpg
 
Crops

first, of the regular stacked image



6e90952cb7ed496c8fdcfee295cc94e0.jpg


second, the HDR



7dffe7f9a71c4c13b3752e39cd75345a.jpg


and third, the high resolution stack crop



c2ccc0799b67470d90f29213f08467aa.jpg


obviously, the HDR stack looks awful compared to the other two. So I won’t be stacking using HDR going forward
 
I’ll also note, no editing was done with any of those stacks before posting, aside from the crops you saw.



here’s a slightly sharpened version of the last image, the cropped High Resolution 80MP stack

this is about 0.9mm Field of view at most after cropping



652db03a0e6247e4bdcaf5fbd990f2d4.jpg
 
Interesting test, well executed.

First, the HDR image is definitely UNsharp. I don't know why that would be. And for this scene/brightness, I don't think HDR is necessary.

Examining the crops: Hi-Res (80mp) image is a tad sharper than the standard (20mp) resolution image. But that's already a crop, and one has to look hard to see the difference.

For sure, the sharpened image is the winner by a mile (kilometer). With the nominal aperture at f/10 (I assume the camera has taken into account the teleconverter), at 4X the effective aperture is f/50, way into diffraction territory. This is where modern sharpening algorithms come to the rescue.

It would be interesting to sharpen the crop of the 20mp image and compare it to the sharpened, cropped 80mp image (use exact same amount of sharpening). I've heard varying reports about the value of high-res, pixel shift, and whether it's worth the extra trouble.

Lester Lefkowitz, author of The Manual of Close-Up and Macro Photography, Volumes I & II

www.MacroPhotographer.net
 
Interesting test, well executed.

First, the HDR image is definitely UNsharp. I don't know why that would be. And for this scene/brightness, I don't think HDR is necessary.

Examining the crops: Hi-Res (80mp) image is a tad sharper than the standard (20mp) resolution image. But that's already a crop, and one has to look hard to see the difference.

For sure, the sharpened image is the winner by a mile (kilometer). With the nominal aperture at f/10 (I assume the camera has taken into account the teleconverter), at 4X the effective aperture is f/50, way into diffraction territory. This is where modern sharpening algorithms come to the rescue.

It would be interesting to sharpen the crop of the 20mp image and compare it to the sharpened, cropped 80mp image (use exact same amount of sharpening). I've heard varying reports about the value of high-res, pixel shift, and whether it's worth the extra trouble.

Lester Lefkowitz, author of The Manual of Close-Up and Macro Photography, Volumes I & II

www.MacroPhotographer.net




I’ll do that when I get back to my computer, as I’ve still got the files. Personally, I find the focus shifting high resolution images to be worth the effort for my stacking, as I feel it grabs a little extra detail, especially with my sand grain images which are important to me

This is 1mm field of view

7195ce0213f9483a8efbf180ed712ec0.jpg





 
I had a good look at all the images. The only thing I might add is did you use the manual shutter or electrice? Have you done any tests with that?

I just got out of bed and haven't had my first cup of coffee. My spelling might be stranger than usual.
 
Interesting test, well executed.

First, the HDR image is definitely UNsharp. I don't know why that would be. And for this scene/brightness, I don't think HDR is necessary.

Examining the crops: Hi-Res (80mp) image is a tad sharper than the standard (20mp) resolution image. But that's already a crop, and one has to look hard to see the difference.

For sure, the sharpened image is the winner by a mile (kilometer). With the nominal aperture at f/10 (I assume the camera has taken into account the teleconverter), at 4X the effective aperture is f/50, way into diffraction territory. This is where modern sharpening algorithms come to the rescue.

It would be interesting to sharpen the crop of the 20mp image and compare it to the sharpened, cropped 80mp image (use exact same amount of sharpening). I've heard varying reports about the value of high-res, pixel shift, and whether it's worth the extra trouble.

Lester Lefkowitz, author of The Manual of Close-Up and Macro Photography, Volumes I & II

www.MacroPhotographer.net

here’s the regular focus stack sharpened, and then the high Rez again



cc9057d711f749a7aaba2bba932ea82a.jpg



da8a0cbeb4bc4595bb76175387315159.jpg
 
I had a good look at all the images. The only thing I might add is did you use the manual shutter or electrice? Have you done any tests with that?

I just got out of bed and haven't had my first cup of coffee. My spelling might be stranger than usual.

it’s using electric when focus bracketing and for high resolution mode

may try the manual shutter one time to see how that pans out

thanks for the idea!
 
I had a good look at all the images. The only thing I might add is did you use the manual shutter or electrice? Have you done any tests with that?

I just got out of bed and haven't had my first cup of coffee. My spelling might be stranger than usual.

so, here’s a focus stack using manual shutter



80c6d0ed828a44d9ae52311b6a6a238d.jpg


and here is using focus bracketing and electrical shutter





7cd31490a3674e87b4247a0bc915df9d.jpg

I think you’ll see a difference!!!
 
Wow. The shutter causes more vibration than expected. I will have to remember that.

Does you camera allow you to use flash with electric shutter?
 
Wow. The shutter causes more vibration than expected. I will have to remember that.

Does you camera allow you to use flash with electric shutter?

I don’t know as I don’t use flash. I only use constant light. But I would think so as I’ve heard of bracketing working with flash I thought…



here’s a crop of a high rez shot that I like - got the lighting coming from the right side instead of the left.



f680a7d83f004f99838da3d98d93f880.jpg
 
Interesting test, well executed.

First, the HDR image is definitely UNsharp. I don't know why that would be. And for this scene/brightness, I don't think HDR is necessary.

Examining the crops: Hi-Res (80mp) image is a tad sharper than the standard (20mp) resolution image. But that's already a crop, and one has to look hard to see the difference.

For sure, the sharpened image is the winner by a mile (kilometer). With the nominal aperture at f/10 (I assume the camera has taken into account the teleconverter), at 4X the effective aperture is f/50, way into diffraction territory. This is where modern sharpening algorithms come to the rescue.

It would be interesting to sharpen the crop of the 20mp image and compare it to the sharpened, cropped 80mp image (use exact same amount of sharpening). I've heard varying reports about the value of high-res, pixel shift, and whether it's worth the extra trouble.

Lester Lefkowitz, author of The Manual of Close-Up and Macro Photography, Volumes I & II

www.MacroPhotographer.net
here’s the regular focus stack sharpened, and then the high Rez again.
Thanks for doing the comparison. For sure, the 80mp is a bit sharper, has a tad more resolution. These are already 100% (?) crops of the full image, which is what it takes to see the difference.

If one has the time, patience, need - and storage capacity - no doubt pixel-shift high-resolution does work!

Lester Lefkowitz
 
. . . For sure, the sharpened image is the winner by a mile (kilometer). With the nominal aperture at f/10 (I assume the camera has taken into account the teleconverter), at 4X the effective aperture is f/50, way into diffraction territory. This is where modern sharpening algorithms come to the rescue. . . .
A note about the OMS 90mm . . . Oneforone25 is shooting at f/16, not f/50, with 4x on this lens.

The 90mm's minimum effective aperture at 2x -- without the TC -- is f/8, as described in the OM documentation. (Note that this lens manipulates both focal length and pupillary ratio to produce its light loss profile.) Adding the 2x TC brings the final effective aperture to f/16 for 4x. My understanding is that in calculating final effective aperture, this is correct:

Final_effective = Primary_lens_effective + TC_loss

Oneforone25 is into diffraction territory with his MFT setup, but he isn't anywhere near f/50.

Enjoyed your books . . . Steven
 
. . . For sure, the sharpened image is the winner by a mile (kilometer). With the nominal aperture at f/10 (I assume the camera has taken into account the teleconverter), at 4X the effective aperture is f/50, way into diffraction territory. This is where modern sharpening algorithms come to the rescue. . . .
A note about the OMS 90mm . . . Oneforone25 is shooting at f/16, not f/50, with 4x on this lens.

The 90mm's minimum effective aperture at 2x -- without the TC -- is f/8, as described in the OM documentation. (Note that this lens manipulates both focal length and pupillary ratio to produce its light loss profile.) Adding the 2x TC brings the final effective aperture to f/16 for 4x. My understanding is that in calculating final effective aperture, this is correct:

Final_effective = Primary_lens_effective + TC_loss

Oneforone25 is into diffraction territory with his MFT setup, but he isn't anywhere near f/50.

Enjoyed your books . . . Steven
I doubt it's actually an f16 effective aperture at 4x, the combination is too soft to have a similar effective aperture to the Laowa 25mm. Or the focal length/tc glass have a higher impact on the sharpness than I would expect, though we are already diffraction limited even with the MC14.

You'll still have to factor in the magnification change when calculating the effective aperture. The OM 90mm with the MC20 at 2x has an effective aperture of f16 at a nominal aperture of f10, but not at 4x.
 
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. . . For sure, the sharpened image is the winner by a mile (kilometer). With the nominal aperture at f/10 (I assume the camera has taken into account the teleconverter), at 4X the effective aperture is f/50, way into diffraction territory. This is where modern sharpening algorithms come to the rescue. . . .
A note about the OMS 90mm . . . Oneforone25 is shooting at f/16, not f/50, with 4x on this lens.

The 90mm's minimum effective aperture at 2x -- without the TC -- is f/8, as described in the OM documentation. (Note that this lens manipulates both focal length and pupillary ratio to produce its light loss profile.) Adding the 2x TC brings the final effective aperture to f/16 for 4x. My understanding is that in calculating final effective aperture, this is correct:

Final_effective = Primary_lens_effective + TC_loss

Oneforone25 is into diffraction territory with his MFT setup, but he isn't anywhere near f/50.

Enjoyed your books . . . Steven
I doubt it's actually an f16 effective aperture at 4x, the combination is too soft to have a similar effective aperture to the Laowa 25mm. Or the focal length/tc glass have a higher impact on the sharpness than I would expect, though we are already diffraction limited even with the MC14.

You'll still have to factor in the magnification change when calculating the effective aperture. The OM 90mm with the MC20 at 2x has an effective aperture of f16 at a nominal aperture of f10, but not at 4x.
Hmmmm? I'm confused and always willing to learn more. Accepting the fact that this lens truly is f/8 effective at 2X (per Olympus instruction manual, a bit unusual among macro lenses where an f/3.5 lens would be f/9.5 at 2X - f-effective = f-nominal (M+1), adding the 2X TC to f/8 brings the effective aperture to f/16. I think, indeed, now that we're at 4X, that is the effective aperture, with attendant DOF and diffraction. Am I missing something? Or...is the f/16 effective just due to loss of light in the TC, and then we have to add even more effective-efffective for the increased 2X magnification from 4X????

But here's another way to look at it: The EXIF data on oneofone25's photos reports f/10, which would be what we would expect from an f/3.5 lens (wide open) at infinity when a 2X TC is attached, assuming the lens/camera knows the presence of the TC. Though not an Olympus user, I believe like all cameras (except Nikon) the EXIF data is unaware of any lens magnification.

Normally, a nominal f/10 aperture would be (M+1) = f/50 effective 4X. Even with Olympus' adjustment of the entrance pupil, I doubt it would gain more than about one stop lower effective aperture.

So we can get two significantly-different results for effective aperture. Can some smart person out there explain what the heck is going on?

I wish I had that 90mm Olympus lens to test: doing 4X with the TC and 4X with a long bellows. That's always better than a theoretical discussion.

By the way, is oneofone25 always shooting wide open in is tests?

Lester Lefkowitz www.MacroPhotographer.net
 
. . . For sure, the sharpened image is the winner by a mile (kilometer). With the nominal aperture at f/10 (I assume the camera has taken into account the teleconverter), at 4X the effective aperture is f/50, way into diffraction territory. This is where modern sharpening algorithms come to the rescue. . . .
A note about the OMS 90mm . . . Oneforone25 is shooting at f/16, not f/50, with 4x on this lens.

The 90mm's minimum effective aperture at 2x -- without the TC -- is f/8, as described in the OM documentation. (Note that this lens manipulates both focal length and pupillary ratio to produce its light loss profile.) Adding the 2x TC brings the final effective aperture to f/16 for 4x. My understanding is that in calculating final effective aperture, this is correct:

Final_effective = Primary_lens_effective + TC_loss

Oneforone25 is into diffraction territory with his MFT setup, but he isn't anywhere near f/50.

Enjoyed your books . . . Steven
I doubt it's actually an f16 effective aperture at 4x, the combination is too soft to have a similar effective aperture to the Laowa 25mm. Or the focal length/tc glass have a higher impact on the sharpness than I would expect, though we are already diffraction limited even with the MC14.

You'll still have to factor in the magnification change when calculating the effective aperture. The OM 90mm with the MC20 at 2x has an effective aperture of f16 at a nominal aperture of f10, but not at 4x.
Hmmmm? I'm confused and always willing to learn more. Accepting the fact that this lens truly is f/8 effective at 2X (per Olympus instruction manual, a bit unusual among macro lenses where an f/3.5 lens would be f/9.5 at 2X - f-effective = f-nominal (M+1), adding the 2X TC to f/8 brings the effective aperture to f/16. I think, indeed, now that we're at 4X, that is the effective aperture, with attendant DOF and diffraction. Am I missing something? Or...is the f/16 effective just due to loss of light in the TC, and then we have to add even more effective-efffective for the increased 2X magnification from 4X????
It's not an f3.5 lens, it is only f3.5 in the non S-macro mode. At 2x it is f5 wide open with an effective aperture of f8, at f10 2x magnification it will have an effective aperture of f16.

At 4x f10 the effective aperture would then be somewhere around f22 i think (?).
But here's another way to look at it: The EXIF data on oneofone25's photos reports f/10, which would be what we would expect from an f/3.5 lens (wide open) at infinity when a 2X TC is attached, assuming the lens/camera knows the presence of the TC. Though not an Olympus user, I believe like all cameras (except Nikon) the EXIF data is unaware of any lens magnification.
It states f10 because the lens is being used wide open, nominal aperture at 4x with the MC20 wide open is f10, the camera just calculates the nominal aperture when using teleconverters, but not the effective aperture.
Normally, a nominal f/10 aperture would be (M+1) = f/50 effective 4X. Even with Olympus' adjustment of the entrance pupil, I doubt it would gain more than about one stop lower effective aperture.
I am not sure how the effective aperture translates when using the teleconverter with the design of the OM 90mm, this reviewer did some measurements of the entrance pupil, though.
So we can get two significantly-different results for effective aperture. Can some smart person out there explain what the heck is going on?

I wish I had that 90mm Olympus lens to test: doing 4X with the TC and 4X with a long bellows. That's always better than a theoretical discussion.

By the way, is oneofone25 always shooting wide open in is tests?
Yes, stopping down from f10 to f11 instantly softens the image, albeit just a little due to diffraction. Even when just using the MC14 at 2.8x it is sharpest wide open at f7.1 at 2.8x and sharpness just decreases when stopping down. This is unfortunate since when using the lens without teleconverters it is quite soft at f5 and the sharpness increases drastically when stopping down to f6.3 through f8.

What's even more interesting, the MC20 shot at 3x f10 actually has very similar sharpness as the MC14 shot at f7.1, with the MC14 just being slightly sharper, so I assume the lens is severly diffraction limited much earlier anyway.
 
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. . . For sure, the sharpened image is the winner by a mile (kilometer). With the nominal aperture at f/10 (I assume the camera has taken into account the teleconverter), at 4X the effective aperture is f/50, way into diffraction territory. This is where modern sharpening algorithms come to the rescue. . . .
A note about the OMS 90mm . . . Oneforone25 is shooting at f/16, not f/50, with 4x on this lens.

The 90mm's minimum effective aperture at 2x -- without the TC -- is f/8, as described in the OM documentation. (Note that this lens manipulates both focal length and pupillary ratio to produce its light loss profile.) Adding the 2x TC brings the final effective aperture to f/16 for 4x. My understanding is that in calculating final effective aperture, this is correct:

Final_effective = Primary_lens_effective + TC_loss

Oneforone25 is into diffraction territory with his MFT setup, but he isn't anywhere near f/50.

Enjoyed your books . . . Steven
I doubt it's actually an f16 effective aperture at 4x, the combination is too soft to have a similar effective aperture to the Laowa 25mm. Or the focal length/tc glass have a higher impact on the sharpness than I would expect, though we are already diffraction limited even with the MC14.

You'll still have to factor in the magnification change when calculating the effective aperture. The OM 90mm with the MC20 at 2x has an effective aperture of f16 at a nominal aperture of f10, but not at 4x.
Hmmmm? I'm confused and always willing to learn more. Accepting the fact that this lens truly is f/8 effective at 2X (per Olympus instruction manual, a bit unusual among macro lenses where an f/3.5 lens would be f/9.5 at 2X - f-effective = f-nominal (M+1), adding the 2X TC to f/8 brings the effective aperture to f/16. I think, indeed, now that we're at 4X, that is the effective aperture, with attendant DOF and diffraction. Am I missing something? Or...is the f/16 effective just due to loss of light in the TC, and then we have to add even more effective-efffective for the increased 2X magnification from 4X????
It's not an f3.5 lens, it is only f3.5 in the non S-macro mode. At 2x it is f5 wide open with an effective aperture of f8, at f10 2x magnification it will have an effective aperture of f16.

At 4x f10 the effective aperture would then be somewhere around f22 i think (?).
But here's another way to look at it: The EXIF data on oneofone25's photos reports f/10, which would be what we would expect from an f/3.5 lens (wide open) at infinity when a 2X TC is attached, assuming the lens/camera knows the presence of the TC. Though not an Olympus user, I believe like all cameras (except Nikon) the EXIF data is unaware of any lens magnification.
It states f10 because the lens is being used wide open, nominal aperture at 4x with the MC20 wide open is f10, the camera just calculates the nominal aperture when using teleconverters, but not the effective aperture.
Normally, a nominal f/10 aperture would be (M+1) = f/50 effective 4X. Even with Olympus' adjustment of the entrance pupil, I doubt it would gain more than about one stop lower effective aperture.
I am not sure how the effective aperture translates when using the teleconverter with the design of the OM 90mm, this reviewer did some measurements of the entrance pupil, though.
So we can get two significantly-different results for effective aperture. Can some smart person out there explain what the heck is going on?

I wish I had that 90mm Olympus lens to test: doing 4X with the TC and 4X with a long bellows. That's always better than a theoretical discussion.

By the way, is oneofone25 always shooting wide open in is tests?
Yes, stopping down from f10 to f11 instantly softens the image, albeit just a little due to diffraction. Even when just using the MC14 at 2.8x it is sharpest wide open at f7.1 at 2.8x and sharpness just decreases when stopping down. This is unfortunate since when using the lens without teleconverters it is quite soft at f5 and the sharpness increases drastically when stopping down to f6.3 through f8.

What's even more interesting, the MC20 shot at 3x f10 actually has very similar sharpness as the MC14 shot at f7.1, with the MC14 just being slightly sharper, so I assume the lens is severly diffraction limited much earlier anyway.
huh. That’s what I was going to say…
 
So, I get quite addicted to stacking the diamond bits used for polishing fillings and drilling teeth. Here’s another I was given by a local dentist. This stack was of 75 images in the 80MP high resolution mode. The image was 4.3mm and cropped down to 4mm just for a better view. I am sharpening this image now, but here’s the unsharpened one first. And yes, I set a tiny 0.25mm sand garnet atop.





View attachment 9d96e1c0efdc4b08bed4c04fb3377b45.jpg



Here are two crops of the bur that I sharpened as well…





54f364f7a9ec44dda57269651e192fee.jpg



a8140d536283499e92ee123639825abf.jpg





here’s the deal in my eyes…yeah, I could spend a few thousand and get an automated rail and tube set and Mitutoyo 20x and 50x and try to get these shots with less diffraction, but then I’d be (1) out big money, (2) not be assured I would even be good at doing shots that way, and (3) be out a LOT of time. Each shot I do with bracketing, stacking, and all editing takes me about 8-10 minutes. There are 15-20 minutes where I can walk away from my setup while the computer brackets the shots for me while in High Resolution mode, and I come back and stack when it’s done.



my customers love the color and “artsy” look for my sand grain shots. They aren’t really looking for more detail and better quality images. They seem very happy with the results. Shots like my normal sand pictures seem boring to some. To others, they are waiting for the right one to purchase as a “1of1”. At some point I may see where I can further my detail. But I think I’m doing alright considering what I’m using…



the shots above I think were done at 1/100th second shutter speed which is pretty crazy for macro photography at 4:1, isn’t it?? Or is that normal? I used the Raynox 505 for years as 1/8 second exposure time so I’m in heaven with my new setup…
 
. . . For sure, the sharpened image is the winner by a mile (kilometer). With the nominal aperture at f/10 (I assume the camera has taken into account the teleconverter), at 4X the effective aperture is f/50, way into diffraction territory. This is where modern sharpening algorithms come to the rescue. . . .
A note about the OMS 90mm . . . Oneforone25 is shooting at f/16, not f/50, with 4x on this lens.

The 90mm's minimum effective aperture at 2x -- without the TC -- is f/8, as described in the OM documentation. (Note that this lens manipulates both focal length and pupillary ratio to produce its light loss profile.) Adding the 2x TC brings the final effective aperture to f/16 for 4x. My understanding is that in calculating final effective aperture, this is correct:

Final_effective = Primary_lens_effective + TC_loss

Oneforone25 is into diffraction territory with his MFT setup, but he isn't anywhere near f/50.

Enjoyed your books . . . Steven
I doubt it's actually an f16 effective aperture at 4x, the combination is too soft to have a similar effective aperture to the Laowa 25mm. Or the focal length/tc glass have a higher impact on the sharpness than I would expect, though we are already diffraction limited even with the MC14.

You'll still have to factor in the magnification change when calculating the effective aperture. The OM 90mm with the MC20 at 2x has an effective aperture of f16 at a nominal aperture of f10, but not at 4x.
Hmmmm? I'm confused and always willing to learn more. Accepting the fact that this lens truly is f/8 effective at 2X (per Olympus instruction manual, a bit unusual among macro lenses where an f/3.5 lens would be f/9.5 at 2X - f-effective = f-nominal (M+1), adding the 2X TC to f/8 brings the effective aperture to f/16. I think, indeed, now that we're at 4X, that is the effective aperture, with attendant DOF and diffraction. Am I missing something? Or...is the f/16 effective just due to loss of light in the TC, and then we have to add even more effective-efffective for the increased 2X magnification from 4X????
There shouldn't be confusion. Shooting the 90mm wide open (at nominal f/5 in S-macro), at 2x without TC brings us to f/8. (This can be easily verified by simple testing.) The 90mm apparently achieves this lower-than-expected effective aperture by manipulating both pupil ratio and focal length. (See also the reference below.) Adding the TC loses two additional stops (only) and brings final effective aperture to f/16.

Macrophoto_markus' comment, above, on the TC's effect is incorrect. The TC magnifies an existing image; it doesn't generate additional magnification through lens extension. The loss with a 2x TC is two stops; there is no additional magnification penalty.
But here's another way to look at it: The EXIF data on oneofone25's photos reports f/10, which would be what we would expect from an f/3.5 lens (wide open) at infinity when a 2X TC is attached, assuming the lens/camera knows the presence of the TC. Though not an Olympus user, I believe like all cameras (except Nikon) the EXIF data is unaware of any lens magnification.
The f/10 only tells us that Oneforone25 is shooting in S-macro wide open at nominal f/5, or f/10 with the TC. Using nominal f/10 as a base to calculate final effective aperture runs into trouble, however, because you're now double-counting the TC's light-loss effect.

Again, the applicable formula is:

final_effective = primary_lens_effective + TC_loss
Normally, a nominal f/10 aperture would be (M+1) = f/50 effective 4X. Even with Olympus' adjustment of the entrance pupil, I doubt it would gain more than about one stop lower effective aperture.
F/50 double-counts the TC's effect and isn't correct. Also, where the exit and entrance pupil diameters don't match, which seems to be true in this case, the applicable multiplier is (m/p+1), where p=pupil ratio.

For those interested, a good discussion of the pupil ratio's effect on effective aperture appears in this photomacrography.net thread. I would suggest reading through the entire discussion:

https://www.photomacrography.net/forum/viewtopic.php?f=29&t=8895

(The thread references your 1979 book :-).)
So we can get two significantly-different results for effective aperture. Can some smart person out there explain what the heck is going on?
There is one correct result; see above.
I wish I had that 90mm Olympus lens to test: doing 4X with the TC and 4X with a long bellows. That's always better than a theoretical discussion.
This lens is very popular in MFT land (and my favorite lens) in part because it's the only 2x auto macro on the market. Also, the 8.6mm field width at 2x means that, unless you're into extreme macro like Oneforone25, you really don't need to attach any TC. You're already at 4x FF FOV equivalent without one.

A lot of people are producing good results with this lens. I suspect, however, that most are using this lens in the 0.5x-1x range.
By the way, is oneofone25 always shooting wide open in is tests?
If his nominal aperture is f/10 with 2x TC, that means that he has to be shooting at marked f/5, the widest aperture available in S-Macro.
. . . Steven
 

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