Stabilised camera body - how often are you using slow shutter speed?

Raymond2024

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Now that stabilised bodies are readily available for quite some years. If you don't need the quicker shutter speed for freezing action, how often are you deliberately riding on a slower shutter speed? I guess for many of us they take a lot of static images - landscapes, buildings, street scenes and other structures and items, portraitures, general travel.

Many thanks.
 
Now that stabilised bodies are readily available for quite some years. If you don't need the quicker shutter speed for freezing action, how often are you deliberately riding on a slower shutter speed? I guess for many of us they take a lot of static images - landscapes, buildings, street scenes and other structures and items, portraitures, general travel.

Many thanks.
Some of the cuff reasons for using IBIS :

Well, there’s age for one thing.

Low light photography for another.

My go-to lens, the Zuiko 12-100mm is great but the long end needs to be stabilsed.

Keeping ISO in the low numbers or at that value specified by the camera manufacturer.

To be able to use the builtin Focus Stacking of the E-M1 Mark II without a tripod.

Cheers
 
Now that stabilised bodies are readily available for quite some years. If you don't need the quicker shutter speed for freezing action, how often are you deliberately riding on a slower shutter speed? I guess for many of us they take a lot of static images - landscapes, buildings, street scenes and other structures and items, portraitures, general travel.

Many thanks.
Just to start off the IBIS discussion, two factors are involved - obtaining quick and reliable focus in dim lighted situations as well as IBIS. Lidar phase detection is probably going to be used increasingly in high-end cameras as well as IBIS in the coming upgraded models. An interesting article on difference in Contrast detection vs. Phase detection is here:

https://josephineremo.com/phase-detection-vs-contrast-detection/ My current camera does not have IBIS but I do use, as a rule, a lens that does. Using a combination of lens and IBIS has added benefit.

Some cameras have a hydrid system which has both. CDAF & PDAF
 
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I use quicker shutter speeds combined with stabilization to minimize the effects of camera motion, especially end of lens motion, when using long and heavy lenses. It reduces stress and keeps my keeper rate up.
 
Now that stabilised bodies are readily available for quite some years. If you don't need the quicker shutter speed for freezing action, how often are you deliberately riding on a slower shutter speed? I guess for many of us they take a lot of static images - landscapes, buildings, street scenes and other structures and items, portraitures, general travel.

Many thanks.
I prefer keeping stabilization off, & using a steady support like a tripod. The issue with stabilization is that it's a gamble; if you move the camera too much, the stabilization may not be adequate to compensate for the movement. But what many people may not realize is that there's also the risk of the camera moving not enough, and as crazy as it may seem, may cause blur because the stabilization may try to compensate. It's better to ensure that the camera's stable in the first place, otherwise with stabilization, you need to ensure that the camera moves at least to some extent so that there's no stabilization working when the camera's static.
 
I shoot photos mostly while travel. This usually means hiking, but there's also some amount of sightseeing. In lowlight conditions, I routinely use fast prime WA lenses, no flash if possible (but I'm flexible here).

Everything from historic interiors to evening/night street or landscape. Including also tourist adapted mines and caves, fortifications.

Most often these are static scenes, so in-camera stabilisation is invaluable - You couldn't get as much far with fast prime only and ISO 800. Note that most of WA fast prime lenses have no built-in stabilisation, not only in the system I use (m4/3).

This is huge advantage, because I can shoot handheld in really, really dark places. Caves and mines are no joke here. In times of my first digital camera, I was forced to use tripod (usually mini one). This was very painful limitation, even if I practised its creative use to perfection. You can just brace a proper mini-tripod against virtually anything horizontal or vertical, if necessary. Even a low ceilling :-) Nowadays, no such acrobatic anymore. Even though I still toss the mini-tripod into the upper pocket of my backpack, just in case... Or sometimes for purpose, when a real night scape photo is on target.

Regards,

-J.
 

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