I've been doing this a LOT lately; copied >1100 old slides pretty efficiently using a FF mirrorless camera. About all you might need to change is the macro lens focal length.
You could try a commercial setup like this:
...and add a light source. Or you could make something like my setup:
EOS R5—12mm extension tube—100mm Macro lens
The tube allows the lens to magnify more than its native 1X, which allows me to get the entire slide frame to fill my camera's frame. Because your camera's sensor has different length x width ratio than 35mm slides, you're going to end up including the slide mount to fill the frame. This isn't a problem if you use batch processing software like Lightroom or Capture One, as you can easily crop the same on multiple images as long as the slides are all aligned the same to the camera.
Similarly, if you can't get to ~1.1X with your macro lens, you'd just crop a bit more to include only the slide area. Or, if you go through the laborious process of removing the slides from their mounts, you'll have to deal with the film surrounding the image.
I chose to not remove the films. Reason: my mounts are plastic and haven't appreciably distorted the film. I use Capture One for processing and found that it's trivial to create an elliptical gradient mask and apply whatever corrections are needed (typically Sharpen and Exposure). I'm also able to remove dust and do all of the normal pp corrections one might do with a fresh image. The results, while not perfect, end up looking better than the original slides in most cases.
That's the camera bit. Two other things are needed: a way to hold the slides perfectly parallel with the camera and aligned with the lens axis...and a way of illuminating the slide.
I mounted a piece of window glass in a plastic holder that I made. Easy jig to make if you've got a saw and means of holding the plastic. The glass dimensions just need to be bigger than the slide mount, and the entire thing must allow you to easily swap slides.
I have a diffuser attached to the back of the glass to ensure good lighting. The diffuser's nothing special: I cut it from a spare filter case.
To accommodate slight variations in slide-to-camera distance, I have the holder mounted on a rail like the ones here:
Next, you need a light source. Any kind of light panel should work as long as it's bright enough and is about daylight temperature.
I found it inconvenient to compose through the EVF/LCD, so I've connected a CamRanger and display the working image on a computer monitor; that's all optional.
The entire thing works very well, and it's much easier than it sounds to get it all setup.
Previously, I used a bellows setup, but found that the lens I had resulted in unacceptable spherical distortion; hence the "kludge" above.
Whatever you do, be prepared for lots of repetitive work, and you'll likely want to process the digital image if you want to bring them closer to what your camera could do today.
