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S1 Hints and Tips

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bdbx18

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Guys n gals, looks like the S1 is getting some recognition in CTF. It won't be long before we see a cult-like following with the S1 just like the UZI, Pro90, G series e.g. Before long, there'll be dedicated S1 sites ...

Let's keep the ball moving by pooling our lessons together on optimizing our experiences with the S1. I've certainly picked up a few from forums such as this. So, I'll start with three but other S1 users please jump in:

Unexplainable blurred pics?

Perhaps you have a bad S1 copy.
See http://forums.dpreview.com/forums/read.asp?forum=1010&message=8792960

Low light focus problems?

Use hyperfocal. Use Av, set to f2.8, set manual focus to 10', zoom out all the way and everything from 4.5' to infinity will be in focus. No focusing needed so it'll be fast. Try in a completely dark room. Save as Custom setting and you're all set for Halloween-type pics. If the subject is closer than 4.5', you should be able to focus on it the 'regular' way.

Need fill-flash for daytime pics?

Set slow-synchro to yes in menu, use Tv, set to 1/250 sec, set flash on.

My S1 Samples Only Gallery
http://ritchie.smugmug.com/gallery/96167
 
Nice pics! I'm interested in the photos that apprea to have an external flash attached. Can that relly be done, or did you do that just for relative size?

Inquiring minds wnat to know...

Stu
-----
bdbx18 said:
Guys n gals, looks like the S1 is getting some recognition in CTF.
It won't be long before we see a cult-like following with the S1
just like the UZI, Pro90, G series e.g. Before long, there'll be
dedicated S1 sites ...

Let's keep the ball moving by pooling our lessons together on
optimizing our experiences with the S1. I've certainly picked up a
few from forums such as this. So, I'll start with three but other
S1 users please jump in:

Unexplainable blurred pics?

Perhaps you have a bad S1 copy.
See
http://forums.dpreview.com/forums/read.asp?forum=1010&message=8792960

Low light focus problems?
Use hyperfocal. Use Av, set to f2.8, set manual focus to 10', zoom
out all the way and everything from 4.5' to infinity will be in
focus. No focusing needed so it'll be fast. Try in a completely
dark room. Save as Custom setting and you're all set for
Halloween-type pics. If the subject is closer than 4.5', you
should be able to focus on it the 'regular' way.

Need fill-flash for daytime pics?

Set slow-synchro to yes in menu, use Tv, set to 1/250 sec, set
flash on.

My S1 Samples Only Gallery
http://ritchie.smugmug.com/gallery/96167
Click to expand...
 
bdbx18 said:
Guys n gals, looks like the S1 is getting some recognition in CTF.
It won't be long before we see a cult-like following with the S1
just like the UZI, Pro90, G series e.g. Before long, there'll be
dedicated S1 sites ...

Let's keep the ball moving by pooling our lessons together on
optimizing our experiences with the S1. I've certainly picked up a
few from forums such as this. So, I'll start with three but other
S1 users please jump in:

Unexplainable blurred pics?

Perhaps you have a bad S1 copy.
See
http://forums.dpreview.com/forums/read.asp?forum=1010&message=8792960

Low light focus problems?
Use hyperfocal. Use Av, set to f2.8, set manual focus to 10', zoom
out all the way and everything from 4.5' to infinity will be in
focus. No focusing needed so it'll be fast. Try in a completely
dark room. Save as Custom setting and you're all set for
Halloween-type pics. If the subject is closer than 4.5', you
should be able to focus on it the 'regular' way.

Need fill-flash for daytime pics?

Set slow-synchro to yes in menu, use Tv, set to 1/250 sec, set
flash on.

My S1 Samples Only Gallery
http://ritchie.smugmug.com/gallery/96167
Click to expand...
--1)) Don't be deceived by the on-board displays. They show a brighter, sometimes washed out image. Probably no need to adjust exposure. The images will be just right on the PC and in print. Trust the camera until you learn your particular copy
2) Want to extend your flash range? Two products:

a) Sunpak digital adapter. Has a built in slave that actuates most shoe type flashes you may have lying around. Has settings for several combinations of pre and red eye flash types
DOES NOT WORK WITH VIVITAR 283 - CONTACTS DON'T MATCH UP.

b) Viviatr DF200 slave flash. Acts as a slave to on-board flash and has a learning mode to sync up with on-board. Comes with a bracket that holds the camera and flash (a little flimsy, but what the heck) and the cutest little tripod you ever saw.

Good luck

Thom
 
One hints to remember for people used to Canon multipoint AF.

I took some portrait photos for my friend last Sun with my S1, the first time outside portrait.

I found the center point AF sometimes annoying as I am quite happy with my olde A60's smart AF frame, which has five frame and once half-press, seems know where my interesting part is, most of the time.

My problem is, I really don't like to put people in the middle of the pic, I like composition at 1/3, left or right, leaving good background (mostly beautiful buildings) on the rest. Then the S1 always end up with focusing the middle and blur my main objects.

I know it's S1's feeature to allow me freely select the focus point. But That really takes time with the omni selector. For still objects OK, but for portrait, my people get bored while I am trying to get the focus point right. I end up with just use the center focus. I first put the people in the center and half press to focuse, then recompose the pic so my people is at 1/3 of the pic, then I shoot.

Seems a practical hints to me. Or if you have better suggestion, please tell me. Thanks.
bdbx18 said:
Guys n gals, looks like the S1 is getting some recognition in CTF.
It won't be long before we see a cult-like following with the S1
just like the UZI, Pro90, G series e.g. Before long, there'll be
dedicated S1 sites ...

Let's keep the ball moving by pooling our lessons together on
optimizing our experiences with the S1. I've certainly picked up a
few from forums such as this. So, I'll start with three but other
S1 users please jump in:

Unexplainable blurred pics?

Perhaps you have a bad S1 copy.
See
http://forums.dpreview.com/forums/read.asp?forum=1010&message=8792960

Low light focus problems?
Use hyperfocal. Use Av, set to f2.8, set manual focus to 10', zoom
out all the way and everything from 4.5' to infinity will be in
focus. No focusing needed so it'll be fast. Try in a completely
dark room. Save as Custom setting and you're all set for
Halloween-type pics. If the subject is closer than 4.5', you
should be able to focus on it the 'regular' way.

Need fill-flash for daytime pics?

Set slow-synchro to yes in menu, use Tv, set to 1/250 sec, set
flash on.

My S1 Samples Only Gallery
http://ritchie.smugmug.com/gallery/96167
Click to expand...
 
of course I can't find it now, but there was someon on this forum who absolutely saved me from returning this camera thanks to the following video tip...

PROBLEM... When capturing video, the focus tends to "hunt" frequently, and can be triggered easily, resulting in the video losing focus for a moment and then regaining it. Terribly annoying !

SOLUTION... before starting to record your video clip, zoom all the way (380mm) and let the camera focus on something. After a second or so, the camera will likely have clear focus... press the MF button on the side of the lense. A small "AFL" (auto focus lock) will appear on your screen.

You should be able to pan and zoom with almost no focus problems. Only time I notice it at all is at the very start of a quicker zoom, if I am panning at the same time.

Hope that helps. thanks for starting the tips thread.
 
Okay so the video from the S1 isn't great in low light, but it was about the same as my 3yr old Sharp camcorder, so I figured I could just use the same process to clean up the noise, and brighten the video clip....

BUT... the S1's AVI file would not load for me in virtualdub (which is a great FREE tool, search google for it).

anyway, elsewhere in these forums I found a posting from 2002 that pointed to a simple MJpeg codec. V3 is available here http://www.morgan-multimedia.com/ . It is a free 60day trial kinda thing, and only $19 if you like it.

After installing the codec and rebooting, virtualdub worked great. You just select the morgan codec from the video compression menu, then open your video clip and apply filters.

so far, I have found that fixing my indoor night clips, requires reducing the saturation down to 75% (HSV filter), and reducing some of the noise with the default settings in the Smart Smooth Hiquality filter.

Another tip... if you have one of those cheap halogen (bright as heck) lamps in your house... lug it into the room where you will be doing the filming. It definitely helped.

take care.
 
BigE said:
--1)) Don't be deceived by the on-board displays. They show a
brighter, sometimes washed out image. Probably no need to adjust
exposure. The images will be just right on the PC and in print.
Trust the camera until you learn your particular copy
Click to expand...
Exactly!! Since I ve been using the highlight mode of the LCD, I found it is really cheating on the exposure. Now I switched back to normal light mode, wondering if it can give more accurate exposure display.
BigE said:
2) Want to extend your flash range? Two products:
a) Sunpak digital adapter. Has a built in slave that actuates most
shoe type flashes you may have lying around. Has settings for
several combinations of pre and red eye flash types
DOES NOT WORK WITH VIVITAR 283 - CONTACTS DON'T MATCH UP.
b) Viviatr DF200 slave flash. Acts as a slave to on-board flash and
has a learning mode to sync up with on-board. Comes with a bracket
that holds the camera and flash (a little flimsy, but what the
heck) and the cutest little tripod you ever saw.

Good luck

Thom
Click to expand...
 
Not sure which pic you're referring to. But the only bounced flash pic in my sample gallery is the below. I have pics of the Vivitar slave flash setup on the last page also.


Stuart Weinberg said:
Inquiring minds wnat to know...

Stu
-----
bdbx18 said:
Guys n gals, looks like the S1 is getting some recognition in CTF.
It won't be long before we see a cult-like following with the S1
just like the UZI, Pro90, G series e.g. Before long, there'll be
dedicated S1 sites ...

Let's keep the ball moving by pooling our lessons together on
optimizing our experiences with the S1. I've certainly picked up a
few from forums such as this. So, I'll start with three but other
S1 users please jump in:

Unexplainable blurred pics?

Perhaps you have a bad S1 copy.
See
http://forums.dpreview.com/forums/read.asp?forum=1010&message=8792960

Low light focus problems?
Use hyperfocal. Use Av, set to f2.8, set manual focus to 10', zoom
out all the way and everything from 4.5' to infinity will be in
focus. No focusing needed so it'll be fast. Try in a completely
dark room. Save as Custom setting and you're all set for
Halloween-type pics. If the subject is closer than 4.5', you
should be able to focus on it the 'regular' way.

Need fill-flash for daytime pics?

Set slow-synchro to yes in menu, use Tv, set to 1/250 sec, set
flash on.

My S1 Samples Only Gallery
http://ritchie.smugmug.com/gallery/96167
Click to expand...
Click to expand...
 
Same here. IMO, its far faster to center focus and recompose than to play around with adjusting the focus spot chosen by the digicam. You're already busy with checking focus let alone checking where it focused on.
Zhiyong Sun said:
... I end up with just use the center
focus. I first put the people in the center and half press to
focuse, then recompose the pic so my people is at 1/3 of the pic,
then I shoot.

Seems a practical hints to me. Or if you have better suggestion,
please tell me. Thanks.
Click to expand...
 
My understanding - from an article I read previously (don't ask when or where because I can't recall the specifics) - stated that a lens' sharpest points are generally 2 stops from the highest/lowest. I can't say if that meant the second stop from end or 2 stops in between but in either case, your observation would ring true.

Assuming the first theory (and the validity of the original article, same lighting/situation etc...)
f2.8, f3.1/3.2, f3.5, f4.0, f4.5, f5.0, f5.6, f6.3, f7.1, f8.0

... the sharpest f-stops would be between f3.5 and f6.3

With the second interpretation it would mean the sharpest points would lie between f4.0 and f5.6

==================
bdbx18 said:
Anyone find the S1's is not as sharp in the higher f-stops? Seems
to perform well within f4- f6.
Click to expand...
 
Look at this thread
http://forums.dpreview.com/forums/read.asp?forum=1010&message=9014326

seems applicable for all Canon camera as long as you resize your pics into the resolution that camera can save. When you want to do presentation and slideshow with edited pics on a TV set, this could be very useful.
bdbx18 said:
Guys n gals, looks like the S1 is getting some recognition in CTF.
It won't be long before we see a cult-like following with the S1
just like the UZI, Pro90, G series e.g. Before long, there'll be
dedicated S1 sites ...

Let's keep the ball moving by pooling our lessons together on
optimizing our experiences with the S1. I've certainly picked up a
few from forums such as this. So, I'll start with three but other
S1 users please jump in:

Unexplainable blurred pics?

Perhaps you have a bad S1 copy.
See
http://forums.dpreview.com/forums/read.asp?forum=1010&message=8792960

Low light focus problems?
Use hyperfocal. Use Av, set to f2.8, set manual focus to 10', zoom
out all the way and everything from 4.5' to infinity will be in
focus. No focusing needed so it'll be fast. Try in a completely
dark room. Save as Custom setting and you're all set for
Halloween-type pics. If the subject is closer than 4.5', you
should be able to focus on it the 'regular' way.

Need fill-flash for daytime pics?

Set slow-synchro to yes in menu, use Tv, set to 1/250 sec, set
flash on.

My S1 Samples Only Gallery
http://ritchie.smugmug.com/gallery/96167
Click to expand...
 
Tried the following a few times and it works sometimes...

Simple Cardboard Bounce Flash

Use a piece of white paper or thin piece of cardboard and hold it just under the built-in pop-up flash. Angle the paper upwards at a 45 degree angle or curve the paper upwards with your left hand and holding the left side of the camera. With your right hand, compose your shot and shoot.

The ideas is for the light to bounce off the paper upwards and to hit the ceiling and lighting your subject like an external bounce flash.

Sometimes it works. The pictures can be unfocussed at times and are a bit underexposed. But they are much softer and nicer at times than the harsh direct flash.

Maybe someone can come up with something for the S1 that makes it more reliable.

Ben
Ben
 
Thanks for this great idea. I tried with aluminum foil and seems work for me, giving more nature night feel indoor shoot. here is what I came up with.

http://public.fotki.com/forrestsun/s1_is_bounce_flash/

I know there is a so-called flash-clip for G1-5 on the market that gives soft flash effect, they might be ablt to come up with good bounser for S1 IS with your idea.
Bennet Ho said:
Tried the following a few times and it works sometimes...

Simple Cardboard Bounce Flash

Use a piece of white paper or thin piece of cardboard and hold it
just under the built-in pop-up flash. Angle the paper upwards at
a 45 degree angle or curve the paper upwards with your left hand
and holding the left side of the camera. With your right hand,
compose your shot and shoot.

The ideas is for the light to bounce off the paper upwards and to
hit the ceiling and lighting your subject like an external bounce
flash.

Sometimes it works. The pictures can be unfocussed at times and
are a bit underexposed. But they are much softer and nicer at
times than the harsh direct flash.

Maybe someone can come up with something for the S1 that makes it
more reliable.

Ben
Ben
Click to expand...
 
Zhiyong Sun said:
Thanks for this great idea. I tried with aluminum foil and seems
work for me, giving more nature night feel indoor shoot. here is
what I came up with.

http://public.fotki.com/forrestsun/s1_is_bounce_flash/

I know there is a so-called flash-clip for G1-5 on the market that
gives soft flash effect, they might be ablt to come up with good
bounser for S1 IS with your idea.
Click to expand...
Thanks for posting your picture Zhiyong!

Here are my samples..........

Picture with Direct Flash:

http://www.pbase.com/image/29699257

Picture with Bounce Flash:

http://www.pbase.com/image/29699357

Picture of the Cardboard I used! (Parents might recognize it)

http://www.pbase.com/image/29699374

Zhiyong - Your setup is much nicer than mine!

Happy shooting!
Ben
-------------------
Canon S1 IS, G1
 
A test for posting pic in the thread.

S1 IS will aluminum foil bouncer





Inddor shoot with direct onboard flash, notice the big shadow of the chair.



Indoor shoot with aluminum foil bouncer, little underexposed, but nice night feel.


Zhiyong Sun said:
http://public.fotki.com/forrestsun/s1_is_bounce_flash/

I know there is a so-called flash-clip for G1-5 on the market that
gives soft flash effect, they might be ablt to come up with good
bounser for S1 IS with your idea.
Bennet Ho said:
Tried the following a few times and it works sometimes...

Simple Cardboard Bounce Flash

Use a piece of white paper or thin piece of cardboard and hold it
just under the built-in pop-up flash. Angle the paper upwards at
a 45 degree angle or curve the paper upwards with your left hand
and holding the left side of the camera. With your right hand,
compose your shot and shoot.

The ideas is for the light to bounce off the paper upwards and to
hit the ceiling and lighting your subject like an external bounce
flash.

Sometimes it works. The pictures can be unfocussed at times and
are a bit underexposed. But they are much softer and nicer at
times than the harsh direct flash.

Maybe someone can come up with something for the S1 that makes it
more reliable.

Ben
Ben
Click to expand...
Click to expand...
 
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