How are you dealing with noise at upper ISOs with RX10 iv?

Isabel Cutler

Forum Pro
Messages
18,986
Solutions
4
Reaction score
2,973
Location
Western NC, NC, US
I love the camera and I love it for a long day out shooting without a heavy bag weighting down my shoulder. When not shooting I just have my wrist strap on and hold the camera by the very substantial right side with my arm down. I'm surprised that I can even shoot one-handed with it.

But...I don't like the noise at high ISOs...especially the colored stuff with which I NEVER have to deal with my micro 43 bodies.

I'm eager to learn how those of you who are used to Sony output deal with getting rid of it.

I've used by Topaz DeNoise 6 and Nik Dfine and both demolish detail more than I would like. It seems to be a case of either detail or noise.

Isabel
 
Noise treatment to me is a very personal thing. As a general rule I like a touch of “ film like granularity”.

Having said that and not yet tried my IV at higher ISOs, I use DxO on my 100mk3 and I have good luck with 8x10 prints with night, ambient light type shots at ISOs as high as 12800. Capture One also came close and both were better than Adobe ACR. To be clear I judge noise control on the print not the the screen.

I rather suspect it may be different for you, Isabel, if I’m reading it right and I may not be, but that is my take. DxO prime is very hard to beat. I’m aware that neither converter has yet to incorporate the mk I’ve in the inventory.

Tim
 
I think the best way to deal with feedback is not to take underexposed pictures (sometimes necessary when light is marginal and I need a higher shutter speed to stop subject motion).

Isabel
 
I love the camera and I love it for a long day out shooting without a heavy bag weighting down my shoulder. When not shooting I just have my wrist strap on and hold the camera by the very substantial right side with my arm down. I'm surprised that I can even shoot one-handed with it.

But...I don't like the noise at high ISOs...especially the colored stuff with which I NEVER have to deal with my micro 43 bodies.

I'm eager to learn how those of you who are used to Sony output deal with getting rid of it.

I've used by Topaz DeNoise 6 and Nik Dfine and both demolish detail more than I would like. It seems to be a case of either detail or noise.

Isabel
1" sensors aren't very good at high iso so I tend to avoid anything above iso 1600. For higher iso I use my FF A99ii. How much high iso noise one can tolerate is a personal thing. For you M43 is good while for me it's unacceptable. One answer is to avoid 100% pixel peeping. With such a long zoom heavy cropping is unnecessary.
 
Oh that is true! In my case with night ambient shots, then one needs to be careful with pushing the exposure or the shadows and blacks will be horrible. In such cases, I will also switch metering modes to spot or CW. In my previous post, I assumed a good exposure to feed the Raw converter. If I misunderstood your question then my apologies

Tim
 
... One answer is to avoid 100% pixel peeping. With such a long zoom heavy cropping is unnecessary.
I have to agree with Tom. One of the 2 reasons I upgraded from the RX10M1 to the M4 was the 600mm lens. (other focus speed obviously). Hence my attitude on high ISO noise is simply frame your shot so that no cropping is needed and do not pixel peep on the screen. With 20MP photos viewed on my 4K monitor, even 12800 ISO produces keepers.

my 0.02
Bert
 
Isabel, for now I'm dealing with it with the delete key on my computer keyboard. I'm coming to the m4 from my full frame Nikon D750 which, if pushed too hard in the low light area, will also have objectionable noise. So I'm trying not too judge the Sony too hard. I agree with what others have said about using the tremendous zoom to minimize the amount of cropping. I keep wondering when the perfect camera will be built, a zoom ratio like the RX10m4, no noise even with black cats at midnight, and sharp... oh how sharp the lens will be. All for only $999.. $799 on sale. :)

Jarrell
 
What ISO do you consider high ISO? Different for everyone.

Personally, I like noise. Things in life have texture and noise. Strip it out and things look fake.
 
What ISO do you consider high ISO? Different for everyone.

Personally, I like noise. Things in life have texture and noise. Strip it out and things look fake.
 
I played around with the high ISO ARWs posted by DPR, and noise look manageable to me using DNG/CS6. The mushroom shot at ISO 6400 cleaned up reasonably using CS6's built in NR tool, and if I resize this shot to 10 MP, the detail/noise are much better than my old 40D files at ISO 3200.
 
What ISO do you consider high ISO? Different for everyone.

Personally, I like noise. Things in life have texture and noise. Strip it out and things look fake.

--
RX10 iv | RX100 v | Godox tt685s (x3) & X1T-S | Zhiyun Crane
http://501concepts.com
[from Nikon to Sony full frame to Fuji X system and now to onlyI
--I've set my Auto ISO high limit to 1600. 3200's too noisy for me. If, however, I intend to shoot in b/w 3200 would be all right. Noise in b/w I don't find as objectionable as I do when it's in color.

Isabel

http://www.pbase.com/isabel95
https://www.flickr.com/photos/isabel95/
Don't give up at 1600. Depending on the subject matter, 2000-3200 can give you good results. These are from the RX10 M3, but give you an idea of what it can do. They were run through DXO Prime and Apple Photos.



ISO 2000

ISO 2000



ISO 2500

ISO 2500



ISO 3200

ISO 3200
 
Don't give up at 1600. Depending on the subject matter, 2000-3200 can give you good results. These are from the RX10 M3, but give you an idea of what it can do. They were run through DXO Prime and Apple Photos.
You did a great job on these. I will persist to develop high ISO skills!

I think success at the high ISOs is more likely if I don't underexpose, because trying to bring out shadow detail will only invite visual noise.

Isabel
ISO 2000

ISO 2000

ISO 2500

ISO 2500

ISO 3200

ISO 3200


--
 
I am considering this camera to lighten my load from Canon equipment and noise is a concern. Is there a place to read up on the masking technique being talked about to reduce noise. I use Neat Image with pretty good success now using a masking/layer technique but the one being discussed sounds different. Never heard of brushing certain areas. Thanks.
 
I love the camera and I love it for a long day out shooting without a heavy bag weighting down my shoulder. When not shooting I just have my wrist strap on and hold the camera by the very substantial right side with my arm down. I'm surprised that I can even shoot one-handed with it.

But...I don't like the noise at high ISOs...especially the colored stuff with which I NEVER have to deal with my micro 43 bodies.

I'm eager to learn how those of you who are used to Sony output deal with getting rid of it.

I've used by Topaz DeNoise 6 and Nik Dfine and both demolish detail more than I would like. It seems to be a case of either detail or noise.
DxO PhotoLab Elite Prime NR
 
Perhaps take a look at the Neat Image plugin for Photoshop

--

Sherm
Sherms flickr page
 
DxO PhotoLab Elite Prime NR
That's what I use for high ISO shots from my RX100 III. Here's an ISO 6400 example. #1 full frame, size reduced, #2 100% cropped.

170618e9522f4476817c54e15653d72f.jpg


d0f0f12d417b4a2c8ba55ecc34340fec.jpg
 
Last edited:
DxO PhotoLab Elite Prime NR
That's what I use for high ISO shots from my RX100 III. Here's an ISO 6400 example. #1 full frame, size reduced, #2 100% cropped.
In my experience it's the best of the best when it comes to noise reduction.

I, too, have taken ISO 6400 shots and posted them here; and they are more than acceptable.
 
Last edited:
I've been using a Sony RX10 M3 and also love it. I've recently discovered that beginning with dropping the Dehaze in Adobe Camera Raw, then boosting the Clarity (finding the right balance) helps with the extreme noise in my astrophotography.

I hope this helps.
 
I've been using a Sony RX10 M3 and also love it. I've recently discovered that beginning with dropping the Dehaze in Adobe Camera Raw, then boosting the Clarity (finding the right balance) helps with the extreme noise in my astrophotography.

I hope this helps.
I'm still using CS6 and it doesn't have the Dehaze adjustment.

DxO PhotoLab Elite does a good job, but I wish it were a plug-in.

Thanks for the suggestion.

Isabel
 

Keyboard shortcuts

Back
Top