Getting sharp focus helpl

[GinAZ]

I have the original SLT-A77 camera. I'm very happy with it except for sharp focus. Maybe there is something I can do/learn to get sharper focus. I mostly shoot travel photography, 16:9, landscape.

I have several lenses. I mostly use a Sigma 18-250 Macro 3.5-6.3 or a Sony 16-50 2.8. I also have a Tokina 11-16 2.8, a Sony 70-300 (APS-C 105-450) 4.5-5.6, a Tamron 60mm Macro 2.0, and a 35mm 1.8.

I'm frustrated too many pictures are not sharply in focus. I know the A77 only has 19 focus points and can not focus as quickly as newer cameras. I was missing some "in motion" pictures because the camera didn't lock focus so I switched to Priority setup: Release. I know this contributed to some out-of-focus pictures but it shouldn't cause pictures with time to focus lock to be blurry. I've switch back to Priority setup: AF.

I most frequently shoot in Program mode. I'll use Shutter Priority if I know there will be fast action and I'm using Aperture Priority more to control DOF. I almost always use the Viewfinder.

Current Settings: SteadyShot: On. Priority setup: AF. AF w/shutter: On. Eye-Start AF: On.
Metering Mode: Spot. ISO: Auto max 6400.

Any setting or technique suggestions to improve sharp focus consistency are most welcome.

 

[toni]

I have the original SLT-A77 camera. I'm very happy with it except for sharp focus. Maybe there is something I can do/learn to get sharper focus. I mostly shoot travel photography, 16:9, landscape.

I have several lenses. I mostly use a Sigma 18-250 Macro 3.5-6.3 or a Sony 16-50 2.8. I also have a Tokina 11-16 2.8, a Sony 70-300 (APS-C 105-450) 4.5-5.6, a Tamron 60mm Macro 2.0, and a 35mm 1.8.

I'm frustrated too many pictures are not sharply in focus. I know the A77 only has 19 focus points and can not focus as quickly as newer cameras. I was missing some "in motion" pictures because the camera didn't lock focus so I switched to Priority setup: Release. I know this contributed to some out-of-focus pictures but it shouldn't cause pictures with time to focus lock to be blurry. I've switch back to Priority setup: AF.

I most frequently shoot in Program mode. I'll use Shutter Priority if I know there will be fast action and I'm using Aperture Priority more to control DOF. I almost always use the Viewfinder.

Current Settings: SteadyShot: On. Priority setup: AF. AF w/shutter: On. Eye-Start AF: On.
Metering Mode: Spot. ISO: Auto max 6400.

Any setting or technique suggestions to improve sharp focus consistency are most welcome.

Just a note, sharpness is a function of the lens not the camera.

Can you share some examples with exif included so people could see what you see?

One typical user error on action photos is using a too low shutter speed, this will introduce shake (from camera) and blur (from subject movement). When I shoot indoors I use aperture f/2.8 shutther speed 1/1000 (I could go lower in some sports), iso cna be either auto or a fixed value.

--
vitorfonseca.com

 

[MikeInOr]

I have the original SLT-A77 camera. I'm very happy with it except for sharp focus. Maybe there is something I can do/learn to get sharper focus. I mostly shoot travel photography, 16:9, landscape.

I have several lenses. I mostly use a Sigma 18-250 Macro 3.5-6.3 or a Sony 16-50 2.8. I also have a Tokina 11-16 2.8, a Sony 70-300 (APS-C 105-450) 4.5-5.6, a Tamron 60mm Macro 2.0, and a 35mm 1.8.

I'm frustrated too many pictures are not sharply in focus. I know the A77 only has 19 focus points and can not focus as quickly as newer cameras. I was missing some "in motion" pictures because the camera didn't lock focus so I switched to Priority setup: Release. I know this contributed to some out-of-focus pictures but it shouldn't cause pictures with time to focus lock to be blurry. I've switch back to Priority setup: AF.

I most frequently shoot in Program mode. I'll use Shutter Priority if I know there will be fast action and I'm using Aperture Priority more to control DOF. I almost always use the Viewfinder.

Current Settings: SteadyShot: On. Priority setup: AF. AF w/shutter: On. Eye-Start AF: On.
Metering Mode: Spot. ISO: Auto max 6400.

Any setting or technique suggestions to improve sharp focus consistency are most welcome.

Just a note, sharpness is a function of the lens not the camera.

Can you share some examples with exif included so people could see what you see?

One typical user error on action photos is using a too low shutter speed, this will introduce shake (from camera) and blur (from subject movement). When I shoot indoors I use aperture f/2.8 shutther speed 1/1000 (I could go lower in some sports), iso cna be either auto or a fixed value.

Yes, kind of hard to help without some photos to evaluate.

For 10 years my A77 was my main camera. It always performed quite well for me. Especially with the 16-50/2.8. I would expect better results from the 16-50 than the 18-250... noticeably better results. The Sigma 18-250 has never been known for its sharpness.

I have a Tamron 16-300 that I use with my A55. It isn't a sharpness champion either. But it is fine for posting web picks. Nothing I would want to print or use for a keepsake moment though.

 

[Michael Fritzen]

Hi,

well, you mentioned some lenses and their performance considering sharpness and while I think you´re right I´m under the impression the issue of the OP is to get "just" well focussed shots (by the cam´s AF).

The key is that w/o some example shots showing off what´s wrong it´s difficult to give advice.

There are several possibilities starting with AF points not on the (main) subject / slightly off, subject moving but wrong AF mode (AF-S instead of AF-C), tracking not enabled, subject outside the range of the area covered by the AF points. Not sharp may be also related to subject movement and too long exposure time, camera shake (too long exposure time for the FL setting), some rotational shake from too stron pressing of the shutter release. Another area can be too shallow DOF for the subject.

 

[tbcass]

Since sharpness is a bit subjective posting some examples would help.

 

[ishwanu]

Any setting or technique suggestions to improve sharp focus consistency are most welcome.

If you're shooting with autofocus and not getting good focus, you need to try AF micro adjustment. But first confirm that you can get good manual focus with your lenses under strictly controlled conditions.

 

[GinAZ]

Two pictures from Ohio and one from Hobbiton, NZ.

Sony 16-50 2.8. Image: 50mm. F4.5. 1/125. SIO 100 jpg

I think all the foliage and grass just looks mushy.

Sigma 18-250 3.5-6.3 Image: 35mm. F/4.5 1/60 ISO 160. jpg

Sony 16-50 2.8. Image: 16mm. F/5.6. 1/125. ISO 100. jpg

Most of the images just don't appear sharp to me. Other pictures are great. I'm not sure what I'm doing that is causing the inconsistency.

Maybe I'm expecting too much from a 24 MP JPG. Maybe I'm not taking DOF into account as I should. I shoot JPG + Raw. These were probably in Program mode. All handheld. SteadyShot On.

I will try to do the AF Micro Adj.

The camera was probably in program mode, autofocus C or possibly S.

 

[ishwanu]

I shoot JPG + Raw.

EXIF for those suggests that they're in-camera JPEGs (no external software is named). If you processed them from RAW, what software did you use, and did you apply appropriate sharpening?

The second one shows definite camera shake. I'm not sure about the first one, but possibly some there too.

The third one isn't bad in the foreground center plants, especially if you sharpen it. Most of the sharpness loss is toward the edges, which might be normal for the lens.

They were all shot with AF-C. I prefer S, but can't say it would have made a difference.

I will try to do the AF Micro Adj.

Make sure to confirm that each lens can deliver a sharp manually focused image first, otherwise the adjustment won't matter.

 

[Michael Fritzen]

Hi,

on #1 and #2 I see camera shake, more on #2.

No need to worry about sharpening settings before focus is not spot on and camera shake doesn't ruin the shot.

I'd suggest to improve on one factor at a time to detect systematically what's going on / wrong. Perhaps starting to shoot using a tripod is a good idea so shake shouldn't be an issue anymore and you can focus on focus

Taking several single shots of the same subject should assure that a mishap on one attempt doesn't mislead the analyse. Time to worry if you don't get a single really sharp shot this way.

For freehand shooting you might be better starting off but caring less about lowest possible ISO in favour of shorter exposure times. As you get more experienced you could move back to longer exposure times.

 

[toni]

Besides what others have already said, using a smaller aperture for landscapes will help to get the best from your lens. Take two photos with the lens at f/8 and f/5.6 then compare the results. If everything is working properly the f/8 will be the sharpest of the two.

 

[Ralf B]

Two pictures from Ohio and one from Hobbiton, NZ.

Sony 16-50 2.8. Image: 50mm. F4.5. 1/125. SIO 100 jpg

I think all the foliage and grass just looks mushy.

Not enough DOF + possible shake

Sigma 18-250 3.5-6.3 Image: 35mm. F/4.5 1/60 ISO 160. jpg

Shake causes blurr

Sony 16-50 2.8. Image: 16mm. F/5.6. 1/125. ISO 100. jpg

The fence and front plants are in focus, the door is already out of DOF.

Most of the images just don't appear sharp to me. Other pictures are great. I'm not sure what I'm doing that is causing the inconsistency.

Switch shutter release to AF priority on static objects. And use the center AF sensors to focus and re-compose, they are the most precise. The off center sensors tend to have tolerances - in a lack of a better word. This from experience with my SLTs, a99 and a55. Also, your lenses are sharpest in center which may add to center AF precision.

Maybe I'm expecting too much from a 24 MP JPG. Maybe I'm not taking DOF into account as I should. I shoot JPG + Raw.

From the EXIF in all 3 shots, I see you shying away from ISO higher than 200. As you shoot RAW, go for ISO 400 or even 800 to increase DOF and avoid shake - and then edit your RAWs with a PP SW that offers AI-based NR. This post demonstrates what can be done with an a900 file shot at ISO 6400 (!).

I will try to do the AF Micro Adj.

Hard to do on zoom lenses, especially with zooms offering 10x focal length range...
I'd skip the effort.

Here is hoping all above helps!
Cheers,
Ralf

 

[MikeInOr]

Two pictures from Ohio and one from Hobbiton, NZ.

Sony 16-50 2.8. Image: 50mm. F4.5. 1/125. SIO 100 jpg

I think all the foliage and grass just looks mushy.

Sigma 18-250 3.5-6.3 Image: 35mm. F/4.5 1/60 ISO 160. jpg

Sony 16-50 2.8. Image: 16mm. F/5.6. 1/125. ISO 100. jpg

Most of the images just don't appear sharp to me. Other pictures are great. I'm not sure what I'm doing that is causing the inconsistency.

Maybe I'm expecting too much from a 24 MP JPG. Maybe I'm not taking DOF into account as I should. I shoot JPG + Raw. These were probably in Program mode. All handheld. SteadyShot On.

I will try to do the AF Micro Adj.

The camera was probably in program mode, autofocus C or possibly S.

I have had a chance to look at these on a real monitor and they are all soft with the second one being very soft. In reviewing my own photos from my A77 I also think the problem is camera shake blurring the photos.

Here is a random photo from my A77 with 16-50 lens. It has a sharpness and crispness that is missing the your photos.

Here is a second random photo from my A77 with 16-50.

From a series of 20 photos this one sticks out as soft with the others are quite sharp. I have no doubts that the softness on this photo is due to camera shake. The softness in this photo looks a lot like the softness in your photos. No smearing but definitely soft.

As said above a tripod or raising the ISO for a shorter shutter speed will help with the image blur. But it comes down to working on your technique of holding the camera still when taking a photo. I was taught to put my elbows in and against my chest/belly to eliminate camera shake in the film days. Although IBIS is great and gives me a lot more leeway good technique in holding your camera still while shooting is what I suggest you need to practice.

The smaller max aperture of the 18-250 lens will cause slower shutter speeds and increase the likelihood of blur. Longer focal lengths will increase the likelihood of blur. A newer camera with better IBIS would have probably saved the photos you posted. But the A77 is very capable of being sharp with some practice holding the camera still. The A77 is lightyears ahead of the old film days when it comes to camera shake but it is limited in how much camera shake it will handle.

Just to emphasize the point that I am very capable of messing up a photo by not holding the camera still.

P.S. Very nice composition on the photos you posted.

 

[GinAZ]

Thanks so much for the composition compliment!

I think I can take much better pictures in the future. Happily, or sadly, I'm moving up to an A7RV but these are excellent suggestion that I will still apply. I may be able to pass along the A77 to someone in my family that has only been using a point & shoot that would like a camera with more controls.

My son also has an SLT-A77 but his pictures are consistently more sharp than mine. I suspected it was something in my technique.

 

[neilt3]

Thanks so much for the composition compliment!

I think I can take much better pictures in the future. Happily, or sadly, I'm moving up to an A7RV

The extra MP's will show up even more any flaws in your technique than these shots here !

A very good camera though .

but these are excellent suggestion that I will still apply. I may be able to pass along the A77 to someone in my family that has only been using a point & shoot that would like a camera with more controls.

My son also has an SLT-A77 but his pictures are consistently more sharp than mine. I suspected it was something in my technique.

As others have said , it's not the camera that's the issue here .

Changing cameras won't solve your problems, changing technique will .

Setting the camera to aperture priority mode or manual would be best .

Forget Auto or Programme modes .

Set it to f/8 for best DOF , keep the shutter speed up to avoid camera shake .

Don't worry about the ISO .

A noisey image can be cleaned up , a blurred image threw camera shake if useless .

For the sharpest pictures and long exposures , a tripod is best used .

 

[MikeInOr]

I went from an A77 to an A7RIV when my A77 was stolen. The IBIS + OIS (Optical image stabilization) in the lenses on my A7RIV is a huge advance over the A77 IBIS. I almost have to deliberately try to blur a photo with my A7RIV. The IBIS in your A7RV is supposed to be even more advanced than my A7RIV.

I have found that how I shoot my A7RIV is very different than how I used to shoot my A77. With my A77 I used a geared head on my tripod to get perfect framing. With my A7RIV I have stopped using the geared head. I mostly just shoot wide and crop perfectly in post which works great with 61mp. Cropping and rotating in post allows me to get perfect framing and perfect horizontal horizons.

Focus with the A7RIV is very different than the A77. I would back button focus with my A77 and have had to learn to let the camera focus for me with my A7RIV.

I spent 10 years with my A77 and knew the functionality very well. The functionality of the A7RIV is VERY different and it took a fair bit of use before I was able to the same quality results I did with my A77.

With a few years use of the A7RIV I have learned the camera (a small fraction of the cameras functionality) and couldn't go back to a A77. But when I first switched I really missed my A77 and thought I had made a mistake by not getting a replacement A77. I am VERY happy with my A7RIV now and completely addicted to the wonderful full frame 61mp photos!

I bought the LE-EA5 adapter along with 12-24/4 and 24-105/4 lenses. I still occasionally use my Minolta 85mm macro lens with the LE-EA5. But I don't think I would buy the adapter if I were to make the switch again.

I love both my 12-24/4 and 24-105/4 lenses but several lenses have come out since I bought them and think I would probably get something different than the 24-105. My 12-24/4 is a definite keeper though. The weight and size of the full frame lenses is a big change from the smaller lighter APS lenses. When I acquire new lenses weight is a primary concern for me, even more than perfect sharpness.

What lenses did you get with your A7RV?

 

[ishwanu]

I still occasionally use my Minolta 85mm macro lens with the LE-EA5.

There is no Minolta 85mm macro lens. It would be either 50 or 100 (although the effective focal length of the 100 does shrink to about 85mm at 1:1 magnification).

 

[GinAZ]

I went from an A77 to an A7RIV when my A77 was stolen. The IBIS + OIS (Optical image ....

I bought the LE-EA5 adapter along with 12-24/4 and 24-105/4 lenses. I still occasionally use my Minolta 85mm macro lens with the LE-EA5. But I don't think I would buy the adapter if I were to make the switch again.

I love both my 12-24/4 and 24-105/4 lenses but several lenses have come out since I bought them and think I would probably get something different than the 24-105. My 12-24/4 is a definite keeper though. The weight and size of the full frame lenses is a big change from the smaller lighter APS lenses. When I acquire new lenses weight is a primary concern for me, even more than perfect sharpness.

What lenses did you get with your A7RV?

Thanks for your A77-A7RV info!

Since all of my lenses are A Mount, I did purchase the LE-EA5 adapter. They are all APS-C except I have a FF Sony 70-300 4.5-5.6. We have some travel soon so I plan to get a Tamron 28-200 F2.8-5.6 Di III RXD lens, which is E-Mount. I think that lens will be a good walk around lens.

My APS-C lenses are Tokina 11:16 2.8, Sony 16:50 2.8, Sony 35 1.8, Tamron 60mm macro, and Sigma 18:250 3.5-6.3.

With the FF Tamron 28-200, I think the Tokina 11-16, the Tamron 60mm Macro, and the Sony 70-300 will probably still be useful for special situations.

Have you tried any of the APS-C lenses in FF mode? I've read some of them cover more of the FF sensor that just the APS-C area although they would need to be individually cropped.

I am overwhelmed with the myriad of choices! I watched numerous videos and read just as many articles, then tried to condense it all into choices that will work for me. I've ordered a 256GB CFexpress card so I will have the option of 4K video. I plan to use it as primary and a 512GB very slow SDXC as overflow if needed. I plan to copy pictures to a backup 1TB USB as we travel.

I'm still doing setup and haven't taken a single picture, but I'm getting close!

I have a grandson and family if Medford.

 

[tqlla]

Two pictures from Ohio and one from Hobbiton, NZ.

Sony 16-50 2.8. Image: 50mm. F4.5. 1/125. SIO 100 jpg

I think all the foliage and grass just looks mushy.

Sigma 18-250 3.5-6.3 Image: 35mm. F/4.5 1/60 ISO 160. jpg

Sony 16-50 2.8. Image: 16mm. F/5.6. 1/125. ISO 100. jpg

Most of the images just don't appear sharp to me. Other pictures are great. I'm not sure what I'm doing that is causing the inconsistency.

Maybe I'm expecting too much from a 24 MP JPG. Maybe I'm not taking DOF into account as I should. I shoot JPG + Raw. These were probably in Program mode. All handheld. SteadyShot On.

I will try to do the AF Micro Adj.

The camera was probably in program mode, autofocus C or possibly S.

Are those images on a Tripod? If so, SSS should be off.

If they are taken by hand, then you may need to shore up your body position to keep your arms and hands steady. Its tougher as we get older.

Are you using an A77 or an A77ii? If its an A77ii, turn off Stabilized with Shutter.

 

[GinAZ]

The camera was probably in program mode, autofocus C or possibly S.

Are those images on a Tripod? If so, SSS should be off.

If they are taken by hand, then you may need to shore up your body position to keep your arms and hands steady. Its tougher as we get older.

Are you using an A77 or an A77ii? If its an A77ii, turn off Stabilized with Shutter.

These were hand held with the SLT-A77, the original one (not the ii).

I need to work on holding the camera steady and being sure the camera locks focus. Along with shutter speed high enough and paying attention to DOF. I'll try to use shutter or aperture priority rather than Program or Auto. I think more manual focus. Back with the AE-1 it was all manual focus and shutter, and those are almost all in focus!

Most of my travel photos are when we are touring something, or even just walking around town when I see something I want to photograph. Unfortunately, my family group just keeps going. So I try to hurry my shots and catch up. I know it is on me to get the picture correct, there is just pressure to take the shot and move on quickly.

 

[MikeInOr]

I still occasionally use my Minolta 85mm macro lens with the LE-EA5.

There is no Minolta 85mm macro lens. It would be either 50 or 100 (although the effective focal length of the 100 does shrink to about 85mm at 1:1 magnification).

Yes, you are correct. I was thinking of my 100mm Macro.