Bad red at iso200

[Pavel Sokolov]

Today I have made some shots at iso200. Generally not bad, but the white balance is wrong in the most of shots.
And, the main trouble, I have shot an red car - the car is not red at the shots!



the left image is unedited, the right image edited in the photoshop.
Image -> Adjustments -> Selective color -> Megnetas:
Magneta -50%
Yellow +50%

Anyone has the same effect?

ps. I don't know the effect on the iso100, because does not shot at iso100 this time.

--
If you found any errors in my english - please let me know.

http://www.pbase.com/crea7or/
http://crea70r.photosight.ru/

 

[rick decker]

did you try changing the wb?

R

Today I have made some shots at iso200. Generally not bad, but the
white balance is wrong in the most of shots.
And, the main trouble, I have shot an red car - the car is not red
at the shots!



the left image is unedited, the right image edited in the photoshop.
Image -> Adjustments -> Selective color -> Megnetas:
Magneta -50%
Yellow +50%

Anyone has the same effect?

ps. I don't know the effect on the iso100, because does not shot at
iso100 this time.

--
If you found any errors in my english - please let me know.

http://www.pbase.com/crea7or/
http://crea70r.photosight.ru/

--
It's a tough job, living in Hawaii, but someone has to do it!!!

Powered By Sigma..........Empowered By FOVEON..........

http://www.lightreflection.com
http://www.silveroaksranch.com
http://www.pbase.com/rickdecker
http://www.pbase.com/sigmasd9/user_home

 

[CJMax]

Pavel,

Yeah, I've had some issues with reds and purples. Yellows tend to fuse into a solid mass too when I do macrophotography of some cactus flowers, although careful use of lighting can help a wee bit.

Some times of day are more user friendly than others. Cloudy days work best (or at least when the sun goes behind a cloud - bear in mind that I'm in Texas too - that may not necessarily be as critical in other geographical areas at different times of the year). Blues (possibly purples too) photograph better after the sun has been up for at least 1/2 hour. I"ve had color problems with them beyond 2-3 hours after sunrise. If you need to photograph in the high sun, a well-worn white bedsheet is one of the best scrims. White flowers show up great against a flat black painted foam core board, as do other colors of flowers too.

By the way, this is not just a Sigma issue. It holds true for other digital cameras and color film too.

For what it's worth,

CJ

Today I have made some shots at iso200. Generally not bad, but the
white balance is wrong in the most of shots.
And, the main trouble, I have shot an red car - the car is not red
at the shots!



the left image is unedited, the right image edited in the photoshop.
Image -> Adjustments -> Selective color -> Megnetas:
Magneta -50%
Yellow +50%

Anyone has the same effect?

ps. I don't know the effect on the iso100, because does not shot at
iso100 this time.

--
If you found any errors in my english - please let me know.

http://www.pbase.com/crea7or/
http://crea70r.photosight.ru/

--
http://www.pbase.com/cjmax/galleries

 

[redhand]

I run into the exact same thing when I first got the sd10 so I ordered a second one to check out. the two camera shooting at some red car and produced 2 different rendition of colors...one went toward pink (like your first one) and the other had more orange tone (like your right one) but none of them were the right red to my eyes
I ended up returing the one toward pinkish tone.

Now in retrospect, I was not familiar with the camera. When I shoot a red car (especially metallic colors) I will vary the exposure settings to see if that makes a difference first.

Max

http://www.pbase.com/maxchau/galleries

Today I have made some shots at iso200. Generally not bad, but the
white balance is wrong in the most of shots.
And, the main trouble, I have shot an red car - the car is not red
at the shots!



the left image is unedited, the right image edited in the photoshop.
Image -> Adjustments -> Selective color -> Megnetas:
Magneta -50%
Yellow +50%

Anyone has the same effect?

ps. I don't know the effect on the iso100, because does not shot at
iso100 this time.

--
If you found any errors in my english - please let me know.

http://www.pbase.com/crea7or/
http://crea70r.photosight.ru/

 

[Mike Morrison]

Hi Pavel,

Sure, I have seen it. Same thing at ISO 100. The best way to reduce it or eliminate it is to underexpose by a stop plus. SPP will accomodate accordingly.

The sure way to tell that you will have to do additional WB adjustments is to watch the image load in SPP under raw. If after the initial processing is completed you get a noticiable color shift, than 1st try using a different WB setting and see if it gets close to what it's suppose to be. If that does not work then adjust with the color wheel or in PS.

Two areas I have noticed this.

1) Highly saturated reds - strong shift to pink or yellow in blown out areas and pink in adjacent areas. Best correction is underexpose but -0.7 to -1.3.

2) In scenes dominated by redish cast light (usually in evening, but not always) raw processed image turns from proper looking exposure to a strong yellow cast. You will see it change in SPP after processing as a raw file. Best correction that works for me is to make your normal SPP adjustments except for the color wheel adjustments. Save and make corrections ove in PS. I have a action that I put together that works for about 80-90 percent of those type of files. If you don't want to go through that hassle then establish a custom WB for that shooting condition.

Every digital camera has it little quirks. The true artist learns to use the positive and negatives of the camera to their advantage.

You will find a number of shots in my galleries that had the above mentioned quirks and were corrected easily once I figured out the problem.

In particular look in http://www.pbase.com/mjmorrison/zion_national_park
and http://www.pbase.com/mjmorrison/sd10

Mike

Today I have made some shots at iso200. Generally not bad, but the
white balance is wrong in the most of shots.
And, the main trouble, I have shot an red car - the car is not red
at the shots!



the left image is unedited, the right image edited in the photoshop.
Image -> Adjustments -> Selective color -> Megnetas:
Magneta -50%
Yellow +50%

Anyone has the same effect?

ps. I don't know the effect on the iso100, because does not shot at
iso100 this time.

--
If you found any errors in my english - please let me know.

http://www.pbase.com/crea7or/
http://crea70r.photosight.ru/

--
http://www.pbase.com/mjmorrison
http://www.pbase.com/sigmasd9/user_sd10

 

[jarvic7]

Do a topic search on this forum for past examples.

There are many posts on the trouble with getting reds that look accurate.
(might also relate to the skin tone issues)

I find my SD9 very (color) tempermental (relative to other digitals) under different lighting conditions, and especially in low light.

It doesn't affect my work in that accurate color isn't critical to many things that I do, and I often like the foveon "look".

When it is, I use a different camera.

Just my opinion.

Sure, I have seen it. Same thing at ISO 100. The best way to
reduce it or eliminate it is to underexpose by a stop plus. SPP
will accomodate accordingly.

The sure way to tell that you will have to do additional WB
adjustments is to watch the image load in SPP under raw. If after
the initial processing is completed you get a noticiable color
shift, than 1st try using a different WB setting and see if it gets
close to what it's suppose to be. If that does not work then adjust
with the color wheel or in PS.

Two areas I have noticed this.

1) Highly saturated reds - strong shift to pink or yellow in blown
out areas and pink in adjacent areas. Best correction is
underexpose but -0.7 to -1.3.

2) In scenes dominated by redish cast light (usually in evening,
but not always) raw processed image turns from proper looking
exposure to a strong yellow cast. You will see it change in SPP
after processing as a raw file. Best correction that works for me
is to make your normal SPP adjustments except for the color wheel
adjustments. Save and make corrections ove in PS. I have a action
that I put together that works for about 80-90 percent of those
type of files. If you don't want to go through that hassle then
establish a custom WB for that shooting condition.

Every digital camera has it little quirks. The true artist learns
to use the positive and negatives of the camera to their advantage.

You will find a number of shots in my galleries that had the above
mentioned quirks and were corrected easily once I figured out the
problem.

In particular look in
http://www.pbase.com/mjmorrison/zion_national_park
and http://www.pbase.com/mjmorrison/sd10

Mike

Today I have made some shots at iso200. Generally not bad, but the
white balance is wrong in the most of shots.
And, the main trouble, I have shot an red car - the car is not red
at the shots!



the left image is unedited, the right image edited in the photoshop.
Image -> Adjustments -> Selective color -> Megnetas:
Magneta -50%
Yellow +50%

Anyone has the same effect?

ps. I don't know the effect on the iso100, because does not shot at
iso100 this time.

--
If you found any errors in my english - please let me know.

http://www.pbase.com/crea7or/
http://crea70r.photosight.ru/

--
http://www.pbase.com/mjmorrison
http://www.pbase.com/sigmasd9/user_sd10

--
Peace: Jarvic7

'Blessed are those drowsy ones: for they shall soon nod to sleep'.
http://www.pbase.com/jarvic7

 

[dr.noise]

Today I have made some shots at iso200. Generally not bad, but the
white balance is wrong in the most of shots.
And, the main trouble, I have shot an red car - the car is not red
at the shots!



the left image is unedited, the right image edited in the photoshop.
Image -> Adjustments -> Selective color -> Megnetas:
Magneta -50%
Yellow +50%

Anyone has the same effect?

ps. I don't know the effect on the iso100, because does not shot at
iso100 this time.

--
If you found any errors in my english - please let me know.

http://www.pbase.com/crea7or/
http://crea70r.photosight.ru/

 

[Pavel Sokolov]

did you try changing the wb?

does not help at all.

--
If you found any errors in my english - please let me know.

http://www.pbase.com/crea7or/
http://crea70r.photosight.ru/

 

[AdmiralSchnitz]

And it isn't a lighting or exposure problem. I should ask you what lens you are using. I am using the 50EX and the 105EX. I shoot only sulight WB and correct everything myself. These lenses don't have the yellow glass elements that the mid-range zooms do and I have to give all my pictures (usually) a yellow boost and a little cyan also. I think the yellow slider is less effective than the cyan slidder (directions of color wheel) and may be equivalent shifts in PS. I suspect that Sigma (or Foveon) has changed the general color balance because of all the complaints about yellow skin. Without the yellow glass in these lenses, the color is too blue in pictures.

Use a gray card for awhile, until you develope a standard set of off sets. Don't use the manual WB, it's too cumbersome. Just repeat a sample of your shots with a gray card in the image and use the eyedropper on it to determine the color wheel settings to use on your good pictures. Hold the graycard parallel to the major surfaces of the suibjects of your pictures to get the right lighting. Out of focus is OK and maybe even better.
--
Cynthia, Prescott, AZ

Today I have made some shots at iso200. Generally not bad, but the
white balance is wrong in the most of shots.
And, the main trouble, I have shot an red car - the car is not red
at the shots!



the left image is unedited, the right image edited in the photoshop.
Image -> Adjustments -> Selective color -> Megnetas:
Magneta -50%
Yellow +50%

Anyone has the same effect?

ps. I don't know the effect on the iso100, because does not shot at
iso100 this time.

--
If you found any errors in my english - please let me know.

http://www.pbase.com/crea7or/
http://crea70r.photosight.ru/

AZ

 

[Laurence Matson]

learn to get your colors right in SPP. It is far easier than in Photoshop.

L

Today I have made some shots at iso200. Generally not bad, but the
white balance is wrong in the most of shots.
And, the main trouble, I have shot an red car - the car is not red
at the shots!



the left image is unedited, the right image edited in the photoshop.
Image -> Adjustments -> Selective color -> Megnetas:
Magneta -50%
Yellow +50%

Anyone has the same effect?

ps. I don't know the effect on the iso100, because does not shot at
iso100 this time.

--
If you found any errors in my english - please let me know.

http://www.pbase.com/crea7or/
http://crea70r.photosight.ru/

--
Laurence

There is a tide in the affairs of men,
Which, taken at the flood, leads on to fortune;
Omitted, all the voyage of their life
Is bound in shallows and in miseries.

http://www.pbase.com/lmatson/root
http://www.pbase.com/sigmasd9/root
http://www.pbase.com/cameras/sigma/sd10
http://www.pbase.com/cameras/sigma/sd9
http://www.beachbriss.com (eternal test site)

 

[Pavel Sokolov]

And it isn't a lighting or exposure problem. I should ask you what
lens you are using. I am using the 50EX and the 105EX. I shoot

generally 50ex

only sulight WB and correct everything myself. These lenses don't
have the yellow glass elements that the mid-range zooms do and I
have to give all my pictures (usually) a yellow boost and a little
cyan also. I think the yellow slider is less effective than the
cyan slidder (directions of color wheel) and may be equivalent
shifts in PS. I suspect that Sigma (or Foveon) has changed the
general color balance because of all the complaints about yellow
skin. Without the yellow glass in these lenses, the color is too
blue in pictures.

Use a gray card for awhile, until you develope a standard set of
off sets. Don't use the manual WB, it's too cumbersome. Just
repeat a sample of your shots with a gray card in the image and use
the eyedropper on it to determine the color wheel settings to use
on your good pictures. Hold the graycard parallel to the major
surfaces of the suibjects of your pictures to get the right
lighting. Out of focus is OK and maybe even better.

Thank you for such good description.

I had try to change WB but without result , just removing magneta and adding the yellow is solve the problem without artifacts, because there is people on the shot ( not visible at this crop ).

--
If you found any errors in my english - please let me know.

http://www.pbase.com/crea7or/
http://crea70r.photosight.ru/

 

[Pavel Sokolov]

Auto

Changing in the SPP does not affect the image to be right and made the other color more badly.

Today I have made some shots at iso200. Generally not bad, but the
white balance is wrong in the most of shots.
And, the main trouble, I have shot an red car - the car is not red
at the shots!



the left image is unedited, the right image edited in the photoshop.
Image -> Adjustments -> Selective color -> Megnetas:
Magneta -50%
Yellow +50%

Anyone has the same effect?

ps. I don't know the effect on the iso100, because does not shot at
iso100 this time.

--
If you found any errors in my english - please let me know.

http://www.pbase.com/crea7or/
http://crea70r.photosight.ru/

--
If you found any errors in my english - please let me know.

http://www.pbase.com/crea7or/
http://crea70r.photosight.ru/

 

[Pavel Sokolov]

the left image is unedited, the right image edited in the photoshop.
Image -> Adjustments -> Selective color -> Megnetas:
Magneta -50%
Yellow +50%

Red hue +50 in the CameraRaw plugin do the colors right.

--
If you found any errors in my english - please let me know.

http://www.pbase.com/crea7or/
http://crea70r.photosight.ru/

 

[dr.noise]

Auto

Why not use Sunlight?
Select Sunlight balanse and reset color wheel.
Given that the day was sunny there shouldn't be any problems.

Changing in the SPP does not affect the image to be right and made
the other color more badly.

It won't work right until you change WB from Auto to Sunlight or Shade or Cloudy (depending of weather)

can you share X3F file, btw?

 

[Laurence Matson]

Wanna see great skin color?

http://forums.dpreview.com/forums/read.asp?forum=1009&message=9587724

Enjoy.

Today I have made some shots at iso200. Generally not bad, but the
white balance is wrong in the most of shots.
And, the main trouble, I have shot an red car - the car is not red
at the shots!



the left image is unedited, the right image edited in the photoshop.
Image -> Adjustments -> Selective color -> Megnetas:
Magneta -50%
Yellow +50%

Anyone has the same effect?

ps. I don't know the effect on the iso100, because does not shot at
iso100 this time.

--
If you found any errors in my english - please let me know.

http://www.pbase.com/crea7or/
http://crea70r.photosight.ru/

--
Laurence

There is a tide in the affairs of men,
Which, taken at the flood, leads on to fortune;
Omitted, all the voyage of their life
Is bound in shallows and in miseries.

http://www.pbase.com/lmatson/root
http://www.pbase.com/sigmasd9/root
http://www.pbase.com/cameras/sigma/sd10
http://www.pbase.com/cameras/sigma/sd9
http://www.beachbriss.com (eternal test site)

 

[CJMax]

Mike,

You are absolutely correct. Correct color renditions are not a sole Foveon problem. It is an issue with other digital cameras and films (ever since color film came on the market) too.

Color film manufacturers get around the problem by offering several different types of emulsions for the photographers to pick and choose from according to their situational needs. No one medium has a corner on this issue or a perfect solution.

The best solution is to know your camera and work accordingly. Experiment, learn its capabilities, and work within the parameters that you know exist.

CJ

There are many posts on the trouble with getting reds that look
accurate.
(might also relate to the skin tone issues)

I find my SD9 very (color) tempermental (relative to other
digitals) under different lighting conditions, and especially in
low light.

It doesn't affect my work in that accurate color isn't critical to
many things that I do, and I often like the foveon "look".

When it is, I use a different camera.

Just my opinion.

Sure, I have seen it. Same thing at ISO 100. The best way to
reduce it or eliminate it is to underexpose by a stop plus. SPP
will accomodate accordingly.

The sure way to tell that you will have to do additional WB
adjustments is to watch the image load in SPP under raw. If after
the initial processing is completed you get a noticiable color
shift, than 1st try using a different WB setting and see if it gets
close to what it's suppose to be. If that does not work then adjust
with the color wheel or in PS.

Two areas I have noticed this.

1) Highly saturated reds - strong shift to pink or yellow in blown
out areas and pink in adjacent areas. Best correction is
underexpose but -0.7 to -1.3.

2) In scenes dominated by redish cast light (usually in evening,
but not always) raw processed image turns from proper looking
exposure to a strong yellow cast. You will see it change in SPP
after processing as a raw file. Best correction that works for me
is to make your normal SPP adjustments except for the color wheel
adjustments. Save and make corrections ove in PS. I have a action
that I put together that works for about 80-90 percent of those
type of files. If you don't want to go through that hassle then
establish a custom WB for that shooting condition.

Every digital camera has it little quirks. The true artist learns
to use the positive and negatives of the camera to their advantage.

You will find a number of shots in my galleries that had the above
mentioned quirks and were corrected easily once I figured out the
problem.

In particular look in
http://www.pbase.com/mjmorrison/zion_national_park
and http://www.pbase.com/mjmorrison/sd10

Mike

Today I have made some shots at iso200. Generally not bad, but the
white balance is wrong in the most of shots.
And, the main trouble, I have shot an red car - the car is not red
at the shots!



the left image is unedited, the right image edited in the photoshop.
Image -> Adjustments -> Selective color -> Megnetas:
Magneta -50%
Yellow +50%

Anyone has the same effect?

ps. I don't know the effect on the iso100, because does not shot at
iso100 this time.

--
If you found any errors in my english - please let me know.

http://www.pbase.com/crea7or/
http://crea70r.photosight.ru/

--
http://www.pbase.com/mjmorrison
http://www.pbase.com/sigmasd9/user_sd10

--
Peace: Jarvic7

'Blessed are those drowsy ones: for they shall soon nod to sleep'.
http://www.pbase.com/jarvic7

--
http://www.pbase.com/cjmax/galleries

 

[Pavel Sokolov]

Why not use Sunlight?
Select Sunlight balanse and reset color wheel.
Given that the day was sunny there shouldn't be any problems.

Does not help, sure.

Changing in the SPP does not affect the image to be right and made
the other color more badly.

It won't work right until you change WB from Auto to Sunlight or
Shade or Cloudy (depending of weather)

can you share X3F file, btw?

Later, my current connection is dialup ;(

--
If you found any errors in my english - please let me know.

http://www.pbase.com/crea7or/
http://crea70r.photosight.ru/

 

[Pavel Sokolov]

Wanna see great skin color?

http://forums.dpreview.com/forums/read.asp?forum=1009&message=9587724

sorry, maybe I misunderstood you, this is sarcasm?

--
If you found any errors in my english - please let me know.

http://www.pbase.com/crea7or/
http://crea70r.photosight.ru/

 

[jarvic7]

And it isn't a lighting or exposure problem. I should ask you what
lens you are using. I am using the 50EX and the 105EX. I shoot

generally 50ex

only sulight WB and correct everything myself. These lenses don't
have the yellow glass elements that the mid-range zooms do and I
have to give all my pictures (usually) a yellow boost and a little
cyan also. I think the yellow slider is less effective than the
cyan slidder (directions of color wheel) and may be equivalent
shifts in PS. I suspect that Sigma (or Foveon) has changed the
general color balance because of all the complaints about yellow
skin. Without the yellow glass in these lenses, the color is too
blue in pictures.

Use a gray card for awhile, until you develope a standard set of
off sets. Don't use the manual WB, it's too cumbersome. Just
repeat a sample of your shots with a gray card in the image and use
the eyedropper on it to determine the color wheel settings to use
on your good pictures. Hold the graycard parallel to the major
surfaces of the suibjects of your pictures to get the right
lighting. Out of focus is OK and maybe even better.

Thank you for such good description.
I had try to change WB but without result , just removing magneta
and adding the yellow is solve the problem without artifacts,
because there is people on the shot ( not visible at this crop ).

--
If you found any errors in my english - please let me know.

http://www.pbase.com/crea7or/
http://crea70r.photosight.ru/

--
Peace: Jarvic7

'Blessed are those drowsy ones: for they shall soon nod to sleep'.
http://www.pbase.com/jarvic7

 

[Pavel Sokolov]

The right image is corrected by magenta -50% and yellow +50%

--
If you found any errors in my english - please let me know.

http://www.pbase.com/crea7or/
http://crea70r.photosight.ru/