A WAY FOR SUPER MACRO (Rx10)

[Sylvain Weiller]

Hi all,

I am glad to share a way to make super macro shots using a lens in front of the Sony RX10


My best shot without added lens, lens very close (no processing)


now with added lens! (no processing)


With added lens and processing !!

Added lens: NIKKON CLOSE UP NO.6T Japan
Added rings: 72 to 67 mm Step Down and 67 to 62 Step Down

Moreover, you will be farther from target (nice for bees, etc ...)

Note: handheld shots. In shadow.

Hope it will be useful!

--
Best Regards,
Sylvain
**************************************
* My personal pages : http://sweiller.free.fr/ *
* My personal videos : https://www.youtube.com/user/sweillerYT *
********************************************************

 

[Snapsh0t]

There are several good add-on close-up lenses available in 72mm so step-down rings are not needed. There's the Marumi Achromat in 3 and 5 dioptre versions, the Canon 500D (2 dioptre) and the Sigma AML72-01. I believe there also used to be some under the Polaroid name. Of course, there's also the Raynox DCR-150 and 250 but these are only 43mm so cause severe vignetting until the longer focal lengths on the camera.

 

[Sylvain Weiller]

Hi and thanks !
I have not those other lenses.

Anyhow in my case I don't see chromatic aberrations as reported for other lenses.

Pixel measurements show that the resolution reached is about 2.5 µ.

Below unprocessed crops of 100% size, F/8 hand held pictures:







--
Best Regards,
Sylvain
**************************************
* My personal pages : http://sweiller.free.fr/ *
* My personal videos : https://www.youtube.com/user/sweillerYT *
********************************************************

 

[Dak on cam]

Hi and thanks !
I have not those other lenses.

Anyhow in my case I don't see chromatic aberrations as reported for other lenses.

You mean, for single-element lenses. The Nikon No 6T is a 2.9 dioptre achromatic (two-element) lens. All of "those other lenses" listed by Snapsh0t are achromatic ones as well.

Pixel measurements show that the resolution reached is about 2.5 µ.

Below unprocessed crops of 100% size, F/8 hand held pictures:

Yes, closeup lenses are fun combined with a long-lens zoom. The RX10M4 has something like 70cm minimum focusing width at longest zoom (it is unusual in that the minimum focusing distance at the very long end is shorter than in medium focal widths). With a 2.9 dioptre closeup lens, you can bring that down to 23cm shortest distance and about 34cm longest distance.

My personal equipment for technical closeup shots is a Panasonic FZ50 (goes down to F11 on an 1/1.8" sensor, crop factor about 4, and up to 432mm equivalent focal length) with a Raynox DCR-250 (8 dioptres). The manually linked internal zoom lens is quite handy for framing well, the aperture goes really low. Granted, an old 10MP sensor and somewhat clunky autofocus is not the greatest asset.

Example:





A forged expensive part on top, a genuine expensive part below. They are different parts, so the different print text is quite expected. The top part has had its original printing sanded off and a new print added. One can see that the overall case thickness is less, and in particular the circular depression on the lower left corner does not have as much depth left. Also the print is not as sharply delineated as the laser-etched printing of the lower example. You see a good depth of field in the images in relation to comparatively small parts.

Some aphids with this setup:





Your setup will offer higher image quality, less noise (given good exposure), longer focusing distances (sometimes convenient, sometimes not so much) but less depth of field.

One often heard recommendation for the RX10M4 is the Sigma AML72-01. This is just a strength 2 achromatic dioptre (doesn't quite get the same magnification as your 2.9 dioptre Nikon) but is very affordable. It more than doubles the magnification you can squeeze out of the RX10M4 without attachments.

Dpreview has a dedicated closeup and macro subforum for people trying every trick in the bag for exploring the small world in our midst.

--
Dak

 

[Sylvain Weiller]

Hi and thanks for nice comment and examples!

You know a difficult situation ... capturing a macro picture from a big (live) fly!
I did it handheld, a few min ago, with most careful moves.

Shown here is a crop of a 100%, [Sony's Full Auto Mode, Full Auto Focus] picture in late afternoon sunshine, first one unprocessed then next one denoised / sharpened (from original JPG).

Note: seen best when choosing "original size".
If somebody can show me a better resolution image (on the eyes, eg.) with the RX10 camera, I would be grateful!


Color balance done as near sunset sunshine, no other processing.


Color balance done, Topaz photo AI.

--
Best Regards,
Sylvain
**************************************
* My personal pages : http://sweiller.free.fr/ *
* My personal videos : https://www.youtube.com/user/sweillerYT *
********************************************************

 

[technicsplayer.]

This thread has reminded me I still have a Canon 250D on 58mm which was always very good with older cameras. If I get a 72 to 58 ring, which settings and distances/zoom would be optimum with an RX10m4? I also have an led ring light for inanimate closeups.

 

[Dak on cam]

Hi and thanks for nice comment and examples!

You know a difficult situation ... capturing a macro picture from a big (live) fly!
I did it handheld, a few min ago, with most careful moves.

Shown here is a crop of a 100%, [Sony's Full Auto Mode, Full Auto Focus] picture in late afternoon sunshine, first one unprocessed then next one denoised / sharpened (from original JPG).

Note: seen best when choosing "original size".
If somebody can show me a better resolution image (on the eyes, eg.) with the RX10 camera, I would be grateful!


Color balance done as near sunset sunshine, no other processing.


Color balance done, Topaz photo AI.

Well, first order of proceeding here is to stop using F4. While the RX10M4 is known to not stop down overly gracefully (somehow it manages an uncommon lot of diffraction), at F4 your depth of field for this kind of image is just not helpful. Go down at least to F8 if not more.

Here is some more depth of field from a small-sensor camera:





And here from a large-sensor camera (APS-C-like)







--
Dak

 

[hwvlover]

Hi and thanks for nice comment and examples!

You know a difficult situation ... capturing a macro picture from a big (live) fly!
I did it handheld, a few min ago, with most careful moves.

Shown here is a crop of a 100%, [Sony's Full Auto Mode, Full Auto Focus] picture in late afternoon sunshine, first one unprocessed then next one denoised / sharpened (from original JPG).

Note: seen best when choosing "original size".
If somebody can show me a better resolution image (on the eyes, eg.) with the RX10 camera, I would be grateful!


Color balance done as near sunset sunshine, no other processing.


Color balance done, Topaz photo AI.

Well, first order of proceeding here is to stop using F4. While the RX10M4 is known to not stop down overly gracefully (somehow it manages an uncommon lot of diffraction), at F4 your depth of field for this kind of image is just not helpful. Go down at least to F8 if not more.

Here is some more depth of field from a small-sensor camera:



And here from a large-sensor camera (APS-C-like)

I rather like f/4 (at times).





Regards,
David
***************************************
Until one has loved an animal, a part of one’s soul remains unawakened - Anatole France.

 

[Dak on cam]

This thread has reminded me I still have a Canon 250D on 58mm which was always very good with older cameras. If I get a 72 to 58 ring, which settings and distances/zoom would be optimum with an RX10m4? I also have an led ring light for inanimate closeups.

250D is 4 dioptres and will focus up to a distance of 25cm (and not shorter than about 18cm). You'll want to zoom enough that you don't get vignetting with a 58mm filter.

 

[Dak on cam]

Hi and thanks for nice comment and examples!

You know a difficult situation ... capturing a macro picture from a big (live) fly!
I did it handheld, a few min ago, with most careful moves.

Shown here is a crop of a 100%, [Sony's Full Auto Mode, Full Auto Focus] picture in late afternoon sunshine, first one unprocessed then next one denoised / sharpened (from original JPG).

Note: seen best when choosing "original size".
If somebody can show me a better resolution image (on the eyes, eg.) with the RX10 camera, I would be grateful!


Color balance done as near sunset sunshine, no other processing.


Color balance done, Topaz photo AI.

Well, first order of proceeding here is to stop using F4. While the RX10M4 is known to not stop down overly gracefully (somehow it manages an uncommon lot of diffraction), at F4 your depth of field for this kind of image is just not helpful. Go down at least to F8 if not more.

Here is some more depth of field from a small-sensor camera:



And here from a large-sensor camera (APS-C-like)

I rather like f/4 (at times).

It depends on the magnification and the subject. Once you get to stacking on significant amounts of dioptres on long zoom lenses and have subjects where you want more than a small section to be in focus, you tend to want all the depth of field you can get.

--
Dak