Nikon F3HP and Fuji Slide Film

Kert

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I'm new too film photography (fed up with digital). I just bought a Nikon F3HP and some Fujifilm Slide Film Velvia ISO 50.

What's the difference between slide film and print film? Can the F3HP use both?

How do I develope slide film? I see some people have slide scanners -- do I have to have the film processed before I can scan it? If so, can places like Costco do this?
 
Please confirm your serious. I'd love to answer your questions, but... due to the length.. Just tell me your serious...

BKKSW
I'm new too film photography (fed up with digital). I just bought
a Nikon F3HP and some Fujifilm Slide Film Velvia ISO 50.

What's the difference between slide film and print film? Can the
F3HP use both?

How do I develope slide film? I see some people have slide
scanners -- do I have to have the film processed before I can scan
it? If so, can places like Costco do this?
 
I've never used a film camera before. These are serious questions.
BKKSW
I'm new too film photography (fed up with digital). I just bought
a Nikon F3HP and some Fujifilm Slide Film Velvia ISO 50.

What's the difference between slide film and print film? Can the
F3HP use both?

How do I develope slide film? I see some people have slide
scanners -- do I have to have the film processed before I can scan
it? If so, can places like Costco do this?
 
OK... takes a breath

First of all, any 35mm film camera can use any 35mm film. Including slide or print. Print film gives you negative images which are transferred onto paper into the usual 4x6 format most people acknowledge as 'photos'. Slide film (or transparency film as it is otherwise known) takes a picture who's colours are not inverted as normaly seen on print film negatives. The slides are usually mounted for projection or kept in strips for archival purposes. Both types of film need processing prior to being scanned into a computer.

Slide film gives sharper and more detailed photos with beter colour saturation than print film. However, slide film needs much more precise exposures than print film. Being off by more than + - half a stop is enough to pretty much ruin your slide shot, whereas prints can be quite tolerant of incorrect exposure.

Film comes in speeds, coming from 25 ASA all the way to 1600 ASA. The smaller the speed (lower number) the higher the quality, colour saturation and finer grain the film will have. However, slower film means that your exposures will be longer, or you will need to use wider aperatures. Films

Fourthly, you have to realise that by using Velvia, you are dealing with a professional slide film that has specific uses. It is highly saturated, with an incredible dmax (ie. the depth of colour able to be rendered) and extremely fine grain. However, its saturation of colour renders it practically useless for portraits (unless you want tomato-head coloured people) - its primary use is landscape/nature photography. It is also a very slow film (either 50 or 100 ASA) thus meaning you need to use a flash for indoor photography, and this further limits its usefulnes. If you want to shoot people I recommend using Fuji Astia or perhaps Provia (great all-round pro film). However, you seem to be a beginner to 35mm, thus I presume that you would be quite happy with Fuji Sensia - it is much cheaper, and still an excellent film overall. It also comes in faster speeds (such as 400 ASA).

If you want shots to show to your family and friends, then i recommend using print film instead. It is easier to use until you understand film photography better, and the results can be shown to everyone, unlike slides which need to be projected. Both can be scanned into a computer with pretty much same quality results. Any scanner can be used, but naturally, the better the scanner, the better the results. Professional film scanners provide the best results and are recommended for professional use.

OK I hope that's a help... post again if you don't understand something or need clarification.

--

'Computer games don't affect kids; I mean if Pac-Man affected us as kids, we'd all be running around in darkened rooms, munching magic pills and listening to repetitive electronic music.'
  • Kristian Wilson, Nintendo Inc, 1989
 
I've never used a film camera before. These are serious questions.
OK, just checking. There's no shortage of trolls on these forums so it never hurts to ask..:O)
I'm new too film photography (fed up with digital). I just bought
a Nikon F3HP and some Fujifilm Slide Film Velvia ISO 50.
I've never used a F3HP but I've read it's a fantastic camera. You should enjoy it quite a bit.
What's the difference between slide film and print film? Can the
F3HP use both?
Chich gave you some excellent advise and I'll try not to cover things twice. Basically slide film gives you a positive and print film a negative. The vast majority of pros shoot slide film, though I find uses for both. I use slide film for most everything but studio work, and in the studio I enjoy a fine grain neutral print film like Kodak's Portra 160nc. The lower the ASA number the tighter the grain and the less sensitive the film is to light, the higher the more grain and the more sensitivity. It would be a good idea to read Fuji's and Kodak's description of their line-ups. The Velvia you already have is a well known and used slide film which provides a high level of colour saturation, and is best used on bright days.

Most people start out with print film in the beginning, often getting their film developed and prints made at a discount place like Costco. This allows for cost effective processing which is necessary for your learning curve. Costco can also provide a "decent" digital file of your images on a CD for a nominal cost. These files are normally only good for sharing on the web or sending to friends vs. email, hardly ever are they large enough or of the quality to make good prints.
How do I develope slide film? I see some people have slide
scanners -- do I have to have the film processed before I can scan
it? If so, can places like Costco do this?
All the discount processors are set up by default for print film. This is what the overwhelming majority of amatuers shoot, and amatuers often select places like Costco or other discounters for their processing needs. This isn't to say you can't get good work done at Costco's because you can. My local Costco's uses Fuji equipment and if the chems are checked and kept tight then the results will be great. Most of these places will also process slide film, but they often only process slide film once per day or twice per week, or in some other limited way.

I'd recommend buying some cheap print film, shoot it up and try to keep notes on things like your exposure variables, get it processed and printed somewhere cheap, work in more "types" of films to see what's out there and available, and just give yourself time to let your experience grow. Working with film takes time, yet it can be very rewarding. It's very possible to master film and produce a 8/10 hit rate or better. It just depends on you and your needs.

Scanning... the best scans will come from prolabs who have long time employee's who have been scanning on drum scanners for years. This is pricey, but if you only scan what you intend to print it's not so bad.

Most of use mere mortals purchase an inexpensive strip scanner like the Minolta diamage for about $250.00 or so. It comes with software and will produce high quality scans in a reasonable amount of time. This can be fun and rewarding, or a major pain, it just depends on how you approach it. Some people who are a bit more crazy than normal buy expensive strip scanners like Nikons LS4000ED, and even pay more for a batch roll feeder so you can batch scan an entire roll at a time with little work at all. When you get to thhe point of buying a scanner it pays to ask around and if possible try out a few models.

With the release of the D2h my film days for professional work has come to a grinding halt! However, for recreational shooting I'll still be shooting film through my F5 or my Olympus OM bodies just because I really enjoy it... Even more so now that I don't have to "enjoy" it day in and day out..:O)

I'm not sure how much this has helped you, maybe enough to now ask some specifics? Ask away..

BKKSW
 
BKKSW --

Thanks for all the good replies.

What about XRAYS? If I develop film overseas and bring back the film to the US will it be OK going through the XRAYS?
 
Kert,

The x-rays will only affect undeveloped film. Once the film has been developed, the prints, negatives and slides are no longer light sensitive and will not be affected by the x-rays.

Further to what has been already said, I would recommend using inexpensive print film until you have figured out the basic camera operation. However, once you start to learn about exposure and composition I recommend using slide film. The reason for this is that when print film is processed into prints the operator can compensate for errors in exposure in the enlarger/printer. With slides, what you get back in the little frames is the same film that was in your camera. If you muff the exposure it will be apparent. Likewise with composition - the printer operator will often crop out things along the edge of the frame that you should be learning to eliminate from your images. Slide film is much more demanding of your skills than print film, and to my mind the better medium to learn on.

When you stop learning and want to take picture that you will use, the comments that others have made are valid for the virtues of the different types of film. Slide film has a much narrower latitude than print film - that is the range between the darkest and lightest tone that it can record is less. Another way of expressing that is to say it is more contrasty. For that reason it is generally not the best choice for people pictures. There are dozens of different print films that are designed specifically for different types of pictures. Kodak has lots of literature on these.

I envy your choice of film cameras. You undoubtedly have the best manual focus camera out there. Enjoy it.
'It's all about light'
Don McVee
http://www.pbase.com/mcveed/gallery01
 
Kert -

The answer to this question used to be NO, your film won't be damaged. HOWEVER, recently the airlines have acknowledged that not only do their new xrays and bomb detecting methods damage unexposed AND exposed film, but can also damage digital flash memory. I think this damaging screening is limited to checked luggage however. since the airlines recommend you hand carry those items...

Personally I believe we're in a state of flux regardiing such matters and I've started shipping my pro gear in hard cases via Fedex and bypassing airport screening altogether. But hey, what the heck do I know...:O)

BKKSW

P.S. I'm serious about sending my gear on ahead, I use Starlight hardcases and they are simply the strongest best cases made in the world PERIOD! There are other GOOD cases, but these are the best. http://www.starlightcases.com/
BKKSW --

Thanks for all the good replies.

What about XRAYS? If I develop film overseas and bring back the
film to the US will it be OK going through the XRAYS?
 
The Velvia you already have is a well known and used slide film
which provides a high level of colour saturation, and is best used
on bright days.
Kert,

What BKKSW said about Velvia is not untrue. At ISO 50, traditional Velvia, is a slow film and, naturally, having ample light is necessary...especially if you are hand-holding your camera.

However, and I don't really want to confuse things, there is a different usefulness you might see in time. In particular if you are willing to make use of a tripod. Because of the high color saturation of Velvia, it is very useful during lighting conditions where there is little natural saturation. When it is overcast and cloudy, maybe when there is fog about, or shortly before and after sunrise or before and after sunset. These conditions present an excellent time to make use of Velvia since it will bring out color in situations that do not have so much natural color. It can make situations that might seem lifeless for good color photography truly excellent opportunities. And, if you have any interest in looking into landscape photography, those times that might present very little natural color or often exactly the times that very good landscape photography is pursued.

See, one thing that has been alluded to in the very useful information that has been presented to you, and is certainly true, is that different films have different palettes. Which makes certain films useful in one situation but maybe less useful in another. That can be seen as a bother, but when a photographer learns what different films do and learns to exploit that, they have a very powerful, and even powerfully artistic, tool at their fingertips.

It is certainly possible that you will decide that after all film is not really for you, and that is all right. But if you stick with film with some dedication you might be one of the people who finds that it opens up a very vast world to explore. And...digital can still be a good tool to compliment that and add to your overall experience.

My best,

Ed

--
http://www.blackmallard.com/cal_ls/
California Light and Structure

http://www.blackmallard.com/o_barn/
One Barn
 
Airport Xray machines, so far, do NOT damage film, exposed or unexposed. HOWEVER, recent upgrades to airport security, and new high-power Xray machines MAY CHANGE THIS. Thus, if worried about Xrays, i suggest only one solution:

tell the airport security staff you have film in your bag, take it out and let them inspect it separately (even open the packaging/canisters). The hassle is worth it if you wish your pictures to remain safe!

You may have seen lead-lined bags/cases promising to protect your film from Xrays. Stay away from these as far as possible - they are only a gimmick. Sure, they will block Xrays (to an extent) but their usage will only intrigue the Xray machine's operator even more, and he/she will crank the power on the machine up until it manages to see into the film. And trust me, these machines WILL see through your little lead-lined bag. The amount of radiation pouring into your film now will be guaranteed to nuke it for life.

So, either show them the film and avoid the xrays or fedex it as somebody else suggested!
BKKSW --

Thanks for all the good replies.

What about XRAYS? If I develop film overseas and bring back the
film to the US will it be OK going through the XRAYS?
--

'Computer games don't affect kids; I mean if Pac-Man affected us as kids, we'd all be running around in darkened rooms, munching magic pills and listening to repetitive electronic music.'
  • Kristian Wilson, Nintendo Inc, 1989
 
I clicked on this initially because I love my F3HP and I have shot lots of film over the last 35 years.

I read it with disbelief, thinking "this is impossible. it can't be true, this question." Then I read the poster's other few posts, where he tells someone about pushing digital ISO a few stops, advice on lenses, and I thought "no way can someone know about such things and still not know the difference between slide and print film."

After the following posts on this thread, though, I guardedly believe him and it got me to thinking what a pivotal moment in time this is, when people are reverting from the known digital to the unknown film for the first time.
 
Paul,

Perhaps those who are much younger or started photography from the digital world have a very different platform and thus foundation. These days we talk about reducing noise by using lower ISO (which is something carried over from the film world) and also by using software like Neat Image (which in my opinion is like using a 32ASA b/w film and trying to develop it in DK-50 or Kodak Microfine or something...

But the principles are identical.

When one shoots with a smaller format, it becomes unforgiving in terms of grain (noise), luminosity etc. After a while, you become so tempted or frustrated that you move to mediium format and even 4x5 or 8x10 to get the ultimate sharp and grain-free photo you so desire.

I think, in time, when technology makes larger CCD backs much cheaper and faster and more reliable, there will be a gradual movement of people from the DSLR to medium format and some to large format digital products.

I'm also certain that in time, noise will be significantly lowered that we need not always try to underexpose and over develop just to tweak that little bit more out of our images.

Don't know if you see it that way too.

Regards,

Henry Goh
Singapore
I clicked on this initially because I love my F3HP and I have shot
lots of film over the last 35 years.

I read it with disbelief, thinking "this is impossible. it can't be
true, this question." Then I read the poster's other few posts,
where he tells someone about pushing digital ISO a few stops,
advice on lenses, and I thought "no way can someone know about such
things and still not know the difference between slide and print
film."

After the following posts on this thread, though, I guardedly
believe him and it got me to thinking what a pivotal moment in time
this is, when people are reverting from the known digital to the
unknown film for the first time.
--
Still learning....
 
I'm new too film photography (fed up with digital). I just bought
a Nikon F3HP and some Fujifilm Slide Film Velvia ISO 50.

What's the difference between slide film and print film? Can the
F3HP use both?

How do I develope slide film? I see some people have slide
scanners -- do I have to have the film processed before I can scan
it? If so, can places like Costco do this?
A roll of new unexposed film has the film leader sticking out of the casette. Pulling film out of the casette will fog film and make it useless unless you are in complete darkness or in a darkroom.

When loading film into the camera pull out only enough film necessary for loading.

Before taking your film roll out of the camera make sure you first rewind the film completely back into the casette so that no film leader sticks out.

I don't recommend changing film mid-roll.
 
These have been really great comments.

My background is sort of weird. I came into photography with digicams. I then moved into DSLRs.

I've owned about every DSLR out there. Nikon D100, D1H, D1X -- Canon 300D, Canon 10D, Canon 1D and the Canon 1Ds. I've had some longer than others and others no longer than 30 days before I returned them.

The thing that drove me nuts was wide angle and the crop factor. Some say it's great for telephoto work, but I certainly don't agree with that either. All that is going on is that the frame has been reduced.

I looked through a Nikon FE2 at a used camera store with a 20mm lens and it was WOW WOW WOW. This lens is wide!

I'm completely at place with DSLRs, photo editting and even basic photography techniques such as exposure, composition and the like. Going to a MF and even a manual exposure camera doesn't scare me -- I know how to use it.

I'm just confused about how to use film! I've never used it before, although I've always seen stunning results; especially with Fujifilm Velvia!

Thanks much
 
Kert,

Okay, you already understand that any 35mm film can be used in any 35mm camera...whether color print or color slide or black and white...or even speciality 35mm films like false color infrared. The thing that ties them all together is the 35mm film cartridge. It is the common element. It is possible that a film with an extremely high or extremely low ISO rating will be beyond the capability of a particular camera's built-in meter, but then a hand-held meter can be used...or experience can come into play. If it is 35mm film, it can be used in a 35mm camera.

If you'd like a film overview, I'll give you a link to a pretty decent one. It was written a few years ago, and things do change, but I'd say it is still pretty good:
http://www.photo.net/equipment/film.html

And good luck.

My best,

Ed

--
http://www.blackmallard.com/cal_ls/
California Light and Structure

http://www.blackmallard.com/o_barn/
One Barn
 
How does developed slide film come out? Can you get 5x7s and 8x10s? Or does it come in those little cardboard windows that you place in a slide projector?

If I shoot a roll of 36 pictures - how do I know which pictures I like? Is there a way for me to pick and choose which pictures I want to develop? How does one do this? What if I want an 8x10 of a shot in the middle of the roll?
 
Kert

If you are going to ask questions you should read the answers. I've already told you that when slide film is developed you get the original film that was in your camera back, developed, cut and mounted in the little frames.

It is extremely difficult to evaluate the negatives that result when print film is developed, unless you are an expert with lots of experience. It is almost impossible to find a shop that will develop 35mm print film without also making prints and charging you for them. Some pro shops will do so for medium and large format film. So when you get print film developed you are going to get a stack of prints. If there is a print there that you want to get enlarged, you can examine the negatives and find the correct one. Then just take it to the processor and tell him which frame you want enlarged. Dont cut the strip, just tell the processsor the number of the negative.

You can also get enlargements made from slides. In some processes they make direct prints onto specialized paper. This paper is generally pretty contrasty, and since the slide is already contrasty these prints can be very strong. The other process is to produce an internegative from the slide. This internegative is usually larger than the 35mm film and otherwise looks just like a negative from print film. This is then printed onto conventional print paper.
'It's all about light'
Don McVee
http://www.pbase.com/mcveed/gallery01
 
Look dude either you are taking everyone for a ride here

OR

You are not even at the "newbie stage".

I suggest you FIRST either read a Kodak book on photography or take a beginning photography class.
Then trade in that F3HP and lens for a Pentax K1000, tripod and lens.
Don't even worry about a flash at this point.

We all start out somewhere BUT with an F3HP and no clue about photography.

jb
How does developed slide film come out? Can you get 5x7s and
8x10s? Or does it come in those little cardboard windows that you
place in a slide projector?

If I shoot a roll of 36 pictures - how do I know which pictures I
like? Is there a way for me to pick and choose which pictures I
want to develop? How does one do this? What if I want an 8x10 of
a shot in the middle of the roll?
--
Johnny
Austin, Republic of Texas

Who is Johnny?
http://geocities.com/johnnycb
 
blow me, johnny
OR

You are not even at the "newbie stage".

I suggest you FIRST either read a Kodak book on photography or take
a beginning photography class.
Then trade in that F3HP and lens for a Pentax K1000, tripod and lens.
Don't even worry about a flash at this point.

We all start out somewhere BUT with an F3HP and no clue about
photography.

jb
How does developed slide film come out? Can you get 5x7s and
8x10s? Or does it come in those little cardboard windows that you
place in a slide projector?

If I shoot a roll of 36 pictures - how do I know which pictures I
like? Is there a way for me to pick and choose which pictures I
want to develop? How does one do this? What if I want an 8x10 of
a shot in the middle of the roll?
--
Johnny
Austin, Republic of Texas

Who is Johnny?
http://geocities.com/johnnycb
 

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