A little Football advice?

[T. Marvin]

I agree with Bob, 70-200 2.8 is a great lens for football, but must disagree with those who don't like monopod. After putting the Sigma lens and the 550 EX flash on my D60, a monopod helps you keep camera up and ready to shoot.

I shoot on manual mode and shoot f3.5 early in games before light is gone with a least a 1/250 shutter speed with flash. Everyone uses flash on sidelines here (Fort Worth Star-Telegram and Dallas Morning News shooters and others) Even though lighting is pretty good at most stadiums in the area. In fact, there are a couple of stadiums I can shoot f3.5, 1/250 at ASA800 without flash but use it to get some light into the faces of the players otherwise the face is just a shadow because lights are high and helmets cast shadow on the face.

I try to shoot at ASA 800 with my D60 because noise is so much worse at ASA1000. If 10D has good noise level at ASA1600 you should be able to get great photos.

Here's a few examples of Sigma 70-200 ex with Canon D-60:



The next one is from back of endzone. Running back jumped over pile to score. Endzone have A LOT less light and a flash is required to get usuable images.



One more:



I usually shoot about 15 yards head of or behind the line of scrimmage. When the team I'm trying to get photos of is on offense I shoot ahead of the line of scrimmage. When they're on defense I shoot behind the line of scrimmage. That way you get faces in the photos.

I don't bother evening shooting photos if the play goes toward the opposite sideline. I only shoot when plays are up the middle or toward the sideline I'm standing on. (I break that rule on occasion when I have good line of sight of the play.) It's not so much that lens isn't long enough, but usually you end up with lots of players between you and the ball.

The 70-200 2.8 is a great lens. It's sometimes a little short for
football, but you will have lots of cropping power.

I use the 70-200 on manual at 2.8, 250th-320th, with 550EX on ETTL
at +1/2 to +3.4. ETTL stinks, but that is another issue. I start at
ISO 200-400 depending on light (shoot like crazy before the sun
sets during early season games) and end up at ISO 800.

Flash is fine (and expected) here on South Florida's poorly lighted
fields.

Experiment with your flash compensation, depending on jersey color.
Fire away and you'll be fine. I even got some good shots with the
D30.

Here are some archived shots (check last fall's dates):
http://www.palmswestpress.com/photos.htm

Good luck and remember to join our high school sports thread each
week.

-------------------------------
Bob Markey II
http://www.palmswestpress.com
Royal Palm Beach/Wellington, Fla.

 

[BMarkey]

The players do not notice the flash. No one complains in South Florida. Here, flash is banned only with baseball and softball.

A monopod is a must for me too, even with the 70-200 (I shoot with the 300 F/4L during the day). It can get heavy and the added stability is worth the expense.

-------------------------------
Bob Markey II
http://www.palmswestpress.com
Royal Palm Beach/Wellington, Fla.

 

[CPZ]

Thanks Ray, I glad you like them. 70-200 2.8 will do fine to start with although I do prefer a 300mm2.8. If you don't want to shoot flag football I'm sure you could find a local high school that would let you shoot.

 

[CPZ]

thanks kevin glad that you like them. I used a D30 and a 1D there are probaly a few more shots with the 1D. For night games I always shoot ISO 1600 most of the shots expect the ones in the end zone where done with the 300mm 2.8 sometimes with the 1.4exll. Most of the images have not been cropped and extreme amount but a few have.You should be able to sports fine with your 10D even though the 1D would be a little faster and better auto focus. I'm shooting am exhibition game friday night and after that its a game every friday night for the next 15 weeks. I'll post some from that when I have a chance.Heres one from last season with the D30 and 300mm 2.8. Its cropped at about 50%