Tips for better colour with the OM-5

Tannin

Veteran Member
Messages
1,562
Solutions
1
Reaction score
524
Location
Ballarat, AU
I'm struggling a bit with one aspect of the OM-5, namely, getting good, realistic sky colours on sunny days.

As I have done for years, I'm doing raw conversions with Photo Lab as my standard workflow, but I notice that the OM-5 in-camera JPG colours aren't so very different to the raw results.

Does anybody have any tips or tricks to getting good, realistic sky colours from the OM-5?

(When I get a chance, I'll take some example shots back to back with the OM-5 and a 5D. The results are very different!)
 
Last edited:
Without examples, it’s hard to comment.



736ff47c5c8447b992a2fce151c163c7.jpg



536412b1b191452d90d4e5df2e1d017a.jpg

I mostly use C1, but also have PhotoLab. I find PhotoLab harder to get to where I want, but it does have DeepPrime.

Blue skies can be noisy, even at base ISO. What is your exposure strategy? Do you expose for RAW or jpeg?

Andrew

--
Infinite are the arguments of mages. Truth is a jewel with many facets. Ursula K LeGuin
Please feel free to edit any images that I post
 
Have you tried Workspace? I found Workspace uses same color profile as your camera mode setting. If everything is set by default, you camera and Workspace is set as "Natural". The sky color should be as close as what you see in the EVF. You can change the mode, in Workspace, to make the sky turns dramatic for example, "cloudy" or "in the shade", without retaking the actual picture with the camera. You can of course experiment with taking pictures with your camera at different mode setting.
 
What do you call realistic sky color? Natural color? Example please. Can't comment without side-by-side same time same location example of what you call realistic sky color. What you call realistic color may not be natural color, just saying. Generally realistic means less contrast and less saturation than what most people consider good.

In camera JPEG colors are entirely set by you. If you do nothing it defaults to the same RAW colors. Also different PP applications will interpret colors differently. Use OM Workspace if in camera colors is what you are after.
 
Last edited:
I'm struggling a bit with one aspect of the OM-5, namely, getting good, realistic sky colours on sunny days.

As I have done for years, I'm doing raw conversions with Photo Lab as my standard workflow, but I notice that the OM-5 in-camera JPG colours aren't so very different to the raw results.

Does anybody have any tips or tricks to getting good, realistic sky colours from the OM-5?

(When I get a chance, I'll take some example shots back to back with the OM-5 and a 5D. The results are very different!)
Having come from Canon to Olympus/OM quite a few years ago I recall there being quite a big difference in the colors. The Olympus colors were a bit more saturated and tended to be warmer (the default for OM is to have the "Keep Warm Color" setting to "on". Find it in the menu and turn it off if the colors don't look as cool as your Canon experience.
 
I'm struggling a bit with one aspect of the OM-5, namely, getting good, realistic sky colours on sunny days.

As I have done for years, I'm doing raw conversions with Photo Lab as my standard workflow, but I notice that the OM-5 in-camera JPG colours aren't so very different to the raw results.

Does anybody have any tips or tricks to getting good, realistic sky colours from the OM-5?

(When I get a chance, I'll take some example shots back to back with the OM-5 and a 5D. The results are very different!)
Having come from Canon to Olympus/OM quite a few years ago I recall there being quite a big difference in the colors. The Olympus colors were a bit more saturated and tended to be warmer (the default for OM is to have the "Keep Warm Color" setting to "on". Find it in the menu and turn it off if the colors don't look as cool as your Canon experience.
RAW conversions with PhotoLab suggests this is the classic problem with clear blue skies on a sunny day, where the sky is actually horribly underexposed even at base ISO. All the signal is in the B channel with very little except noise in the RGG ones. Depending on settings and how PhotoLab deals with this, you can have trouble with sky colour and posterisation.

Alternatively, you might be right that this is another example of my RAW processor produces different colours with my new camera than my old one. I always turn off Warm, because I want the flattest profile for RAW metering.

A
 

Keyboard shortcuts

Back
Top