Proving that tilt-shift lenses are advantageous for landscapes.

ben sensler

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Some photographers might see this post as proof merely that my processing skills need upgrading. They might be among those landscape photographers who think that computer techniques now make tilt-shift lenses unnecessary. In any case, I am offering as evidence some examples that I suspect either would have been completely impossible to achieve without my tilt-shift lenses or, at the very least, would have required a prohibitive amount of time making corrections in the computer had I been using normal lenses. Whether members of this forum agree or disagree with my evidence and tentative conclusions, I hope they will respond with examples of their own that might bear on the issue. I'd prefer not lugging these heavy ts lenses around, so I would welcome being talked out of it.

I offer examples in support of two claims in favor of tilt-shift lenses. The first examples show why tilt is much better than focus stacking to achieve universal focus whenever compositional elements in the scene are in motion. The remaining examples in this post show why being able to shift the lens down is essential for wide angle landscapes.

First some examples of using tilt for moving subjects.

 Grass widow flowers with Pentax 645 45-85mm lens at 45mm with maximum tilt on GFX 100s.
Grass widow flowers with Pentax 645 45-85mm lens at 45mm with maximum tilt on GFX 100s.

This is a typical example of where tilt is required and focus stacking nearly impossible. My Pentax 645 45-85mm lens was set at 45mm and mounted to my Fuji GFX 100s with a Fotodiox tilt-shift adapter fully tilted down at eight degrees. These flowers were tiny and only inches from the ground, were positioned to within a foot of the lens, and were moving in a slight breeze. Getting this one exposure at the instant when everything was motionless required several attempts. That everything was in focus from front to back at that instant was a real advantage with a ts lens. Is there a stacking program that could align and bring into register a focus bracket of all these moving blossoms? Had everything been perfectly still, focus stacking would have resulted in a sharper image over all than this result from such an extreme tilt and the f16 aperture I used, but I was glad to get this image rather than no image.

Water is another subject in the landscape that tends to be in motion, not only ripples in lakes and ponds caused by breezes but ripples and waves produced by currents in streams and rivers. Here are a few examples of what tilt can achieve in just one exposure compared to the results achieved by stacking a focus bracket of several exposures.

 Pentax 645 45-85mm at about 65mm on Fuji  GFX 100s with Fotodiox tilt-shift adapter. A single exposure with the focus plane positioned  via tilt along the plane of the lake's surface.
Pentax 645 45-85mm at about 65mm on Fuji GFX 100s with Fotodiox tilt-shift adapter. A single exposure with the focus plane positioned via tilt along the plane of the lake's surface.



 Fuji GF 35-70mm lens at 65mm.  Many focus bracketed exposures stacked later in Photoshop.  Not stacked very well in my opinion!
Fuji GF 35-70mm lens at 65mm. Many focus bracketed exposures stacked later in Photoshop. Not stacked very well in my opinion!



Pentax 645 45-85mm lens at 85mm on GFX 100s with the Fotodiox tilted several degrees to make the  focus plane conform to  the plane of the lake.
Pentax 645 45-85mm lens at 85mm on GFX 100s with the Fotodiox tilted several degrees to make the focus plane conform to the plane of the lake.



Pentax 645 45-85mm  not tilted.  Five exposure focus bracket later stacked in Photoshop.
Pentax 645 45-85mm not tilted. Five exposure focus bracket later stacked in Photoshop.



Pentax 645 45-85mm lens at 85mm with Fotodiox adapter on Fuji GFX 100s.  This is a crop of an image featuring the texture of the ripples with the lens tilted and focused on the plane of the lake.
Pentax 645 45-85mm lens at 85mm with Fotodiox adapter on Fuji GFX 100s. This is a crop of an image featuring the texture of the ripples with the lens tilted and focused on the plane of the lake.



Fuji GF 35-70 at 63mm on Fuji GFX 100s.  I used auto bracket in the camera and later stacked in Photoshop.  This is a mess.  Cropped to match the above crop.
Fuji GF 35-70 at 63mm on Fuji GFX 100s. I used auto bracket in the camera and later stacked in Photoshop. This is a mess. Cropped to match the above crop.



Pentax 645 45-85mm at about 70mm on GFX 100s.  Fotodiox was tilted so that the focus plane ran along  the surface of this fast flowing river.
Pentax 645 45-85mm at about 70mm on GFX 100s. Fotodiox was tilted so that the focus plane ran along the surface of this fast flowing river.



This is a crop from the above to show the ripple texture.  This rendering of detail was achieved along the entire stretch of river.thanks to tilt-shift.
This is a crop from the above to show the ripple texture. This rendering of detail was achieved along the entire stretch of river.thanks to tilt-shift.



Fuji GF 35-70mm at 70mm on Fuji GFX 100s.  Auto focus bracket in camera and then stacked in Photoshop.  Again, a mess.
Fuji GF 35-70mm at 70mm on Fuji GFX 100s. Auto focus bracket in camera and then stacked in Photoshop. Again, a mess.



A crop from the above focus stacked image.  Attractive or not, a focus stack of moving water is not so much a photo of something as a computer fabrication, sometimes with appeal but usually not.
A crop from the above focus stacked image. Attractive or not, a focus stack of moving water is not so much a photo of something as a computer fabrication, sometimes with appeal but usually not.



So much for my evidence that you sometimes need tilt for for moving things. Now we turn to the advantages of being able to shift a lens down. It's often tempting to use wide-angle lenses to get photos with big foregrounds, but aiming the camera down to include those foregrounds rather than shifting the lens down often results in a distorted mess. (Maybe here is where better post-processing know-how would help me?)



 Fuji GF 20-35mm on Fuji GFX 100s.   Camera was  aimed down. .
Fuji GF 20-35mm on Fuji GFX 100s. Camera was aimed down. .



 Canon 17mm tilt-shift  on GFX 100s.  Shifted down rather than the camera aimed down.  Verticals look better to me. Also, shifting down makes the foreground bigger and the background smaller. Good or bad depending on the purpose of the photo.  In this case good.   Also, a slight tilt of the lens made everything sharp without needing to focus bracket.  Tilting just made this photo easier, but shifting down was (for me) what made the image worth taking.
Canon 17mm tilt-shift on GFX 100s. Shifted down rather than the camera aimed down. Verticals look better to me. Also, shifting down makes the foreground bigger and the background smaller. Good or bad depending on the purpose of the photo. In this case good. Also, a slight tilt of the lens made everything sharp without needing to focus bracket. Tilting just made this photo easier, but shifting down was (for me) what made the image worth taking.



Canon 17mm tilt-shift on Fuji GFX.  Lens was unshifted and camera was aimed down in order to emphasize shadows.
Canon 17mm tilt-shift on Fuji GFX. Lens was unshifted and camera was aimed down in order to emphasize shadows.



Canon 17mm tilt shift lens on Fuji GFX 100s.  Camera was level and lens was shifted down. It's so common in landscape photography to want to shift down instead of aim down.  For me at least it is less common in landscape photography to want to shift a wide angle up.  Shifting down is when tilt-shift is really helpful.
Canon 17mm tilt shift lens on Fuji GFX 100s. Camera was level and lens was shifted down. It's so common in landscape photography to want to shift down instead of aim down. For me at least it is less common in landscape photography to want to shift a wide angle up. Shifting down is when tilt-shift is really helpful.



Fuji GF 20-35mm at 20mm on Fuji GFX 100s.  Camera was aimed down, absurdly distorting the larch tree.  Correcting the distortion in this image might have been within my processing ability, but I decided instead to return to the location a week later with the 17mm tilt-shift.
Fuji GF 20-35mm at 20mm on Fuji GFX 100s. Camera was aimed down, absurdly distorting the larch tree. Correcting the distortion in this image might have been within my processing ability, but I decided instead to return to the location a week later with the 17mm tilt-shift.



Canon 17mm tilt-shift lens shifted down instead of aimed down.  Same larch tree from the same angle but admittedly a slightly different composition later in the season.  I felt better equipped to get what I wanted with the tilt-shift lens.
Canon 17mm tilt-shift lens shifted down instead of aimed down. Same larch tree from the same angle but admittedly a slightly different composition later in the season. I felt better equipped to get what I wanted with the tilt-shift lens.
 
Nice demonstration Ben!

That P645 45-85 is great value. It's the best 45mm lens in the Pentax medium format lineup.
 
Very nice images and I really like the sun star effect with the 45-85mm lens. Its rare to see that add to an image.
 
Thanks all. I was hoping for rebuttals. A storm of controversy. My impression is that very few serious landscape photographers use tilt-shift lenses.
 
Thanks all. I was hoping for rebuttals. A storm of controversy. My impression is that very few serious landscape photographers use tilt-shift lenses.
You're not wrong. You don't need camera movements (whether tilt-shift lenses or digital view cameras) to make landscape photographs.

However, there's also an element of "you don't know what you don't know" in play. Camera movements are a fringe oddity in popular photography. Most people don't know what they do, don't know how to use them, and don't understand the benefits.

It doesn't help that the most commonly understood use case is simply correcting verticals, and that actually can be done in post (to a point). Your post includes examples of things that can't be done in post, or can't be done as easily or as well with other techniques. These tend to fly over peoples' heads unless they already have a decent understanding of what's going on.

Can you tell that I combined tilt, swing and some shift to make this image? Would most people notice or care? It mattered to me that the scene is rendered pan-focal, but I doubt it matters to most people. The only thing that matters is, "Was the photograph successful?" If the technique I used is a factor that contributes to the success of the photograph, then it's worth the effort.

Mamiya N 43mm f/4 L on GFX 100S with a rather complicated Arca-Swiss F-Universalis. The image used some tilt, some swing, and a bit of shift to correct the composition.
Mamiya N 43mm f/4 L on GFX 100S with a rather complicated Arca-Swiss F-Universalis. The image used some tilt, some swing, and a bit of shift to correct the composition.
 
Thanks all. I was hoping for rebuttals. A storm of controversy. My impression is that very few serious landscape photographers use tilt-shift lenses.
I'm aware that some landscape photographers like to correct tree verticals. The decision to render trees as straight or curving inwards is clearly partly an aesthetic choice and in modern times we are used to see grossly distorted ultra wide shots but my feeling is that vertical trees should still have a place in landscape photography even with wide lenses. Shift provides that capability without sacrificing real estate to digital correction. The idea of shifting down seems rarer even amongst those who use shift lenses, but I've experimented with it a bit handheld (!) and I definitely think it is worth more experiment.

Tilt for infinite depth of field is technically more challenging - but so is focus stacking (at least it seems that way to me, as I've never done it).
 
Thanks all. I was hoping for rebuttals. A storm of controversy. My impression is that very few serious landscape photographers use tilt-shift lenses.
In the old days, nearly all the serious landscape photographers used cameras with tilt and shift capability.
 
Thanks all. I was hoping for rebuttals. A storm of controversy. My impression is that very few serious landscape photographers use tilt-shift lenses.
No your post made me buy a Pentax 645-FA 45-85mm for $95. I blame you. Hopefully it will be ok and have nice sun stars. I already own the Kipon tilt shift adapter.
 
Thanks all. I was hoping for rebuttals. A storm of controversy. My impression is that very few serious landscape photographers use tilt-shift lenses.
You presented well. 🍻

I also prefer not to in computer software.

Tilt Shift adapters Tilt Shift lenses have become a whole lot cheaper recently from the likes of TTArtisan, 7Artisan, as well as others, although they are for 35mm and smaller sensor mounts not for 44x33 and larger, whereas Fotodiox adapter you used covers larger than 35mm.

--
Photography after all is interplay of light alongside perspective.
 
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Thanks for many good examples! I may take some inspiration!

Regarding stacking, I often use an alternative I call 'focus blending, where I blend two images with different focus in Photoshop.



This image was focus blended from two images using a gradient mask in Photoshop. I could have used my tilt gear instead, but that would need another walk in the mud that I wanted to avoid.
This image was focus blended from two images using a gradient mask in Photoshop. I could have used my tilt gear instead, but that would need another walk in the mud that I wanted to avoid.



The small spruce in foreground is sharp and so are the trees in the background. Getting focus on both treetops and the rocks in the upper half was not possible. So I tilted for focus on the spruce and the treetops and did extensive sharpening on the rocks.
The small spruce in foreground is sharp and so are the trees in the background. Getting focus on both treetops and the rocks in the upper half was not possible. So I tilted for focus on the spruce and the treetops and did extensive sharpening on the rocks.



 Here I have focus on the small fern i the foregroun ad the root of the tree shooting a Contax 35-135 lens at 135 mm with thilt.
Here I have focus on the small fern i the foregroun ad the root of the tree shooting a Contax 35-135 lens at 135 mm with thilt.





Here I used swing to keep the lathe in focus.
Here I used swing to keep the lathe in focus.

Best regards

Erik

--
Erik Kaffehr
Website: http://echophoto.dnsalias.net
Magic tends to disappear in controlled experiments…
Gallery: http://echophoto.smugmug.com
Articles: http://echophoto.dnsalias.net/ekr/index.php/photoarticles
 
I offer examples in support of two claims in favor of tilt-shift lenses. The first examples show why tilt is much better than focus stacking to achieve universal focus whenever compositional elements in the scene are in motion. The remaining examples in this post show why being able to shift the lens down is essential for wide angle landscapes.
Totally agree, that's why I am using my full set of Canon TSE lenses on my GFX100s for landscape instead of using the regular Fuji GF lenes when the focal lengh i want is avaialble in the TSE line up. TSE17, 24LII, & 50 are all my favorite landscape lenses, 90 and 135 is a lot less used in my case and more for product shots. and I used them on all my other system via adapters too that how much I love them, it's my " universal lens set", I use both tilt and shift , I actually use tilt more often than shift, Tilt is very handy to get the whole landscape image in focus, feels even more important in medium Format than on FF due to shallower DOF on MF nature, to me it's a lot easier and more reliable than focus stack, no need to worry about wind and things like that, also I prefer spend my time in the field playing with lens than spending time in front of my computer.
 
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erik: that encompasses using a tripod with the camera at j a single position and simply changing the aperture and or the focus point or both ??

if that is so, could one simply put the two shots into helicon?

you call it blending . it feels like stacking . no?

tx .. les
 
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i guess that means you don't have to process your shots . which is great !

have you actually compared it to stacking the same subject for comparison ??

this is a big deal . at least to me .. as stacking takes time and is prone to motion issues !😂
 
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Sorry about your diversion of funds. I hope the FA works like my A version. I neglected to mention which version I have.

The 45-85mm seems to me to cover the range of focal lengths that really benefit from tilt-shift. Add a lightweight Pentax 645 35mm and you can do a lot with a tilt-shift adapter.

For very little more money, you can get the Pentax 645 150mm and have the poor man's version of Canon's 135mm ts and much lighter. Don't know what you are giving away. Probably run out of image circle sooner.

Ripples in a river.  Pentax 645 A 150mm  tilted with Fotodiox adapter to make every ripple in focus.  Camera Fuji GFX 100s.
Ripples in a river. Pentax 645 A 150mm tilted with Fotodiox adapter to make every ripple in focus. Camera Fuji GFX 100s.



Crop from above
Crop from above



Fuji GF 100-200 autofocus bracketed and stacked in Photoshop.  Interesting but not really a photograph of anything.
Fuji GF 100-200 autofocus bracketed and stacked in Photoshop. Interesting but not really a photograph of anything.
 
i guess that means you don't have to process your shots . which is great !

have you actually compared it to stacking the same subject for comparison ??

this is a big deal . at least to me .. as stacking takes time and is prone to motion issues !😂
Right, so that means I spent my time on the spot playing with the lens trying to get the " perfect" Tilt/Shift degree to maximize front to back focus before I press the shutter botton, and get one single photo instead of getting multiple image and stack them on the computer. of course there is In camera focus stack feature on the some camera model but most of them will end up with a JPG.
 
ben . you clearly showed TS benefit vs FS when motion is present as in rippling water.

Even a single image with reasonable DOF would be better than a focus stack when motion is present

.. might be useful to also compare the TS shot to a single image with a GF lens ..

les
 
erik: that encompasses using a tripod with the camera at j a single position and simply changing the aperture and or the focus point or both ??

if that is so, could one simply put the two shots into helicon?

you call it blending . it feels like stacking . no?

tx .. les
Yes it is stacking, but done manually in Photoshop. The workflow is:

Open the two images as layers, align the layers and use a mask with very soft edges to blend the pictures. For some pictures this works very well, in other cases it won't work.

Using Helicon or other tools they tend to use detail from the sharpest image, but that can yield some artifacts.

It makes sense to try different approaches, I think.

Best regards

Erik
 
Thanks all. I was hoping for rebuttals. A storm of controversy. My impression is that very few serious landscape photographers use tilt-shift lenses.
I am just a rookie but I use TS lenses. I always like something different. Good examples BTW.
 

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