Nikon D780 with Nikon SB-800 Flash for "fill flash"

mikejmyers

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Is there a way to use an SB-800 flash as a "fill flash" on a Nikon D780?

In other words, if I take a photo with the D780, I want the SB-800 to fill in any areas that need more light, without over-powering the image about to be captured.

I just want "fill flash".

Can I do this? Are there any suggestions posted somewhere for what settings to use, on both camera and flash?

......or, do I just need to buy a newer flash.
 
Solution
Is there a way to use an SB-800 flash as a "fill flash" on a Nikon D780?
Both responses by Wahrsager and Simon are good. I use flash almost all the time, well, very frequently anyway. I have a SB800, nice flashgun but awful user interface. I also have 9 or 10 other flashguns. Very often I take control of everything manually.

Typically my camera will be in A mode, ISO=400, WB=cloudy. If using my SB800 I will set a flash EV of -0.7 though that can change depending on the subject matter, subject distance and ambient light conditions, also whether or not I am using an off-camera slave, whether or not I am bouncing the light from the flashgun and so on.

You need to experiment for yourself and get a feel for the situation.

One...
Is there a way to use an SB-800 flash as a "fill flash" on a Nikon D780?

In other words, if I take a photo with the D780, I want the SB-800 to fill in any areas that need more light, without over-powering the image about to be captured.

I just want "fill flash".

Can I do this? Are there any suggestions posted somewhere for what settings to use, on both camera and flash?

......or, do I just need to buy a newer flash.
Put it in "TTL BL" mode.
 
Dial down the flash compensation, or put the flash in manual and set the power as desired
 
Is there a way to use an SB-800 flash as a "fill flash" on a Nikon D780?
Both responses by Wahrsager and Simon are good. I use flash almost all the time, well, very frequently anyway. I have a SB800, nice flashgun but awful user interface. I also have 9 or 10 other flashguns. Very often I take control of everything manually.

Typically my camera will be in A mode, ISO=400, WB=cloudy. If using my SB800 I will set a flash EV of -0.7 though that can change depending on the subject matter, subject distance and ambient light conditions, also whether or not I am using an off-camera slave, whether or not I am bouncing the light from the flashgun and so on.

You need to experiment for yourself and get a feel for the situation.

One thing though, never use auto-ISO and flash together. You will get the most idiosyncratic results imaginable if you do.
 
Solution
Good tips!

I rarely use flash, but have both cheap Amazon Basic clones and the orginal versions from Godox. Plus Metz and a few more, including a Nikon for my Nikon 1 stuff! Possibly a Pentax as well!
 
I've noticed there are two books (maybe more?) available on the D780. If I'd like to buy one to have with me when I'm traveling, any recommendations?

OK, will make sure camera is NOT in auto-iso mode.

Would it be better to buy a newer flash than to continue to use my old SB-800 ?
 
David

One thing though, never use auto-ISO and flash together. You will get the most idiosyncratic results imaginable if you do.
Good catch, I forgot to mention that, flash and auto-iso have never played nicely 👍🏻
I use AutoISO and flash together often, and find they play very well nicely. What kind of issues have you run in to?
 
David

One thing though, never use auto-ISO and flash together. You will get the most idiosyncratic results imaginable if you do.
Good catch, I forgot to mention that, flash and auto-iso have never played nicely 👍🏻
I use AutoISO and flash together often, and find they play very well nicely. What kind of issues have you run in to?
Same here.

I use flash for most indoor shots. I just set the camera to P mode, AF-S or AF-A, matrix metering and auto ISO.

I am always very happy with how well the Auto ISO can adjust the ISO to different focal lengths. It works extremely well with iTTL flash control, for direct or bounced flash.
 
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David

One thing though, never use auto-ISO and flash together. You will get the most idiosyncratic results imaginable if you do.
Good catch, I forgot to mention that, flash and auto-iso have never played nicely 👍🏻
I use AutoISO and flash together often, and find they play very well nicely. What kind of issues have you run in to?
Exposure variance, the camera has to control two variables in TTL and seems to get fooled, typically into over exposure. Much more predictable to turn auto-iso off and have the camera just decide flash power.
 
Exposure variance, the camera has to control two variables in TTL and seems to get fooled, typically into over exposure. Much more predictable to turn auto-iso off and have the camera just decide flash power.
Certainly not the case with the SB-400 on my D5100 and D5600.

Auto ISO works well with my SB-400. These were taken with Sigma 30mm F1.4 on my D5100.

ISO 2000 at a wider scene
ISO 2000 at a wider scene

Lowered to ISO 1600 when the dancer was very close. No over exposure, taken with direct flash.
Lowered to ISO 1600 when the dancer was very close. No over exposure, taken with direct flash.

Works well on my D5600 too, with 18-140 mm.

ISO 400 when zoomed in
ISO 400 when zoomed in

ISO 640 when zoomed out
ISO 640 when zoomed out

Don't have over exposure at all.
 
Well we are talking about SB800’s and Ive never had a D5600. Certainly in the D70/200/300/700 it never seemed to play nicely, these days I use a single SB800 or dual wireless off camera Godox but I still turn off auto-iso out of habit Lol
 
Well we are talking about SB800’s and Ive never had a D5600. Certainly in the D70/200/300/700 it never seemed to play nicely, these days I use a single SB800 or dual wireless off camera Godox but I still turn off auto-iso out of habit Lol
Not sure how you set up your cameras and flash, I always use P mode and matrix metering and Auto ISO when using flash. I have found these settings integrating well with the iTTL flash control.

I don't think the Nikon iTTL will work differently with SB800 than the SB400. If anything, it will be your camera settings that could have compromised the overall exposure control.
 
Well we are talking about SB800’s and Ive never had a D5600. Certainly in the D70/200/300/700 it never seemed to play nicely, these days I use a single SB800 or dual wireless off camera Godox but I still turn off auto-iso out of habit Lol
Not sure how you set up your cameras and flash, I always use P mode and matrix metering and Auto ISO when using flash. I have found these settings integrating well with the iTTL flash control.

I don't think the Nikon iTTL will work differently with SB800 than the SB400. If anything, it will be your camera settings that could have compromised the overall exposure control.
Nothing weird, Aperture priority, perhaps Program is the magic fix.
 
Nothing weird, Aperture priority, perhaps Program is the magic fix.
Personally I do not like P-mode and never use it. I have numerous flashguns and a typical setup for me is two remote SB26s in delayed autoranging mode plus the popup flash to trigger them in iTTL mode usually at flash EV -0.7 or even less. I also have two flashguns that I have modified to emit only infrared and those I use wiith my D90 I modified for infrared at 720nm. The IR flashguns I can also use remotely.

I get good, very reliable, accurate results both with visible light setup and IR setup. That is not the case if auto-ISO is on. However, I don't care at all what other people do or do not do.
 
Nothing weird, Aperture priority, perhaps Program is the magic fix.
Personally I do not like P-mode and never use it. I have numerous flashguns and a typical setup for me is two remote SB26s in delayed autoranging mode plus the popup flash to trigger them in iTTL mode usually at flash EV -0.7 or even less. I also have two flashguns that I have modified to emit only infrared and those I use wiith my D90 I modified for infrared at 720nm. The IR flashguns I can also use remotely.

I get good, very reliable, accurate results both with visible light setup and IR setup. That is not the case if auto-ISO is on. However, I don't care at all what other people do or do not do.
You know I’m not the one with the issue, or using P mode right?
 
Well we are talking about SB800’s and Ive never had a D5600. Certainly in the D70/200/300/700 it never seemed to play nicely, these days I use a single SB800 or dual wireless off camera Godox but I still turn off auto-iso out of habit Lol
Not sure how you set up your cameras and flash, I always use P mode and matrix metering and Auto ISO when using flash. I have found these settings integrating well with the iTTL flash control.

I don't think the Nikon iTTL will work differently with SB800 than the SB400. If anything, it will be your camera settings that could have compromised the overall exposure control.
Nothing weird, Aperture priority, perhaps Program is the magic fix.
This flash/Auto iso discussion intrigued me enough to try how my cameras behave with an SB-800. Result: with auto iso on, all cameras defaulted to ISO 100.

The Df and D850 were in M mode at 1/60 and 1/80 sec, D750 in A. With the flash on, D750 selected 1/60 sec for shutter speed. All pictures were correctly exposed.

-Topi
 
The Df and D850 were in M mode at 1/60 and 1/80 sec, D750 in A. With the flash on, D750 selected 1/60 sec for shutter speed. All pictures were correctly exposed.

-Topi
All my Nikon cameras, D40x, D5100, Coolpix A and D5600 default to 1/60 - 1/80 sec when flash is used.

When flash is used, shutter speed is somewhat meaningless as the duration of exposure will be dictated by the duration of the flash, which normally will be very short, like about 1/750 to 1/1000 sec.
 
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This flash/Auto iso discussion intrigued me enough to try how my cameras behave with an SB-800. Result: with auto iso on, all cameras defaulted to ISO 100.

The Df and D850 were in M mode at 1/60 and 1/80 sec, D750 in A. With the flash on, D750 selected 1/60 sec for shutter speed. All pictures were correctly exposed.

-Topi
Thanks for prompting me to try auto ISO with flash in various camera settings and lighting conditions as well.

I have taken a series of photos of my grandson's book shelf, using the built in flash of my D5600 at auto ISO and Centre weight metering, one was taken in pitch dark, some with room light on, some set to P, some set to various apertures in A.

fe2549a74a6f43c298c9b9a3961cd82b.jpg

74a54f38554a4ba7b526ac545cffe27e.jpg

892ed681cdc94612ba269cdede2faea5.jpg

5feadc48c9e441cbaaacc3d71c598783.jpg

8d32fc5758ef43bf9cae6c0227d7f5d1.jpg

2c99ecaaa7f04f0dba76502855c5443a.jpg

They all seem to have the correct exposure, only with very minor variance. Without checking the EXIF, I can't tell the difference in settings from the photos.

I then repeated the same with the SB400, which is more powerful than the built-in flash. The ISO was dropped from 12800 to 640 with room light. Again the exposures are very consistent.

dcdae126c46343b38dfcb905bd7f2552.jpg

9005141de7f44eb7ae220e886ebc97a5.jpg

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I've noticed there are two books (maybe more?) available on the D780. If I'd like to buy one to have with me when I'm traveling, any recommendations?

OK, will make sure camera is NOT in auto-iso mode.

Would it be better to buy a newer flash than to continue to use my old SB-800 ?
I bought Thom Hogan’s digital book on the D780. It’s a very comprehensive guide

The SB800 is a fine flash. As long as it's working well you should be good. I have two SB800’s and recently added a newer model, an SB910, to expand my multi-flash options and plan on using the newer unit as my primary on-camera flash, both on the D780 and D850.

--
"There's shadows in life, baby.." Jack Horner- Boogie Nights
 
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