Yeah, eye focus is a great feature, particularly with shallow depth of field, but that’s only really necessary with a wide lens, and only recommended with good bokeh.
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Yeah, eye focus is a great feature, particularly with shallow depth of field, but that’s only really necessary with a wide lens, and only recommended with good bokeh.
That’s why I wrote “wide lens”. That covers anything with a large value of focal length divided by f-number.Have to disagree. Eye AF with tracking is terrific with long lenses when trying to take “portraits” of subjects that move. Neither the RP nor the 5D Mk iii can do that, but the inexpensive, new R50 can.Yeah, eye focus is a great feature, particularly with shallow depth of field, but that’s only really necessary with a wide lens, and only recommended with good bokeh.
That’s why I wrote “wide lens”. That covers anything with a large value of focal length divided by f-number.Have to disagree. Eye AF with tracking is terrific with long lenses when trying to take “portraits” of subjects that move. Neither the RP nor the 5D Mk iii can do that, but the inexpensive, new R50 can.Yeah, eye focus is a great feature, particularly with shallow depth of field, but that’s only really necessary with a wide lens, and only recommended with good bokeh.
Let me add to this. I just looked at the comparison of 5D3 vs R50, and the only major thing to me that matters is that the sensor pixel area is much smaller (185% less)At this point, the only thing I care about in the RP vs 5D3 is that the RP is really small. I dislike small cameras like that and I am hoping that I don't end up not liking my camera choice at all because of it. I like big, bulky cameras.
This difference is due primarily to the cameras you are comparing being full frame vs APS-C. The 5D3 has a sensor that is 1.6 times larger along each edge than the R50 (or R7 or any Canon APS-C camera). This will matter primarily in low-light situations, where each pixel will encounter more photons, but it will also impact the depth of field and the look of bokeh (background blur) at a given f-stop. Smooth bokeh is often prized in portraiture, and it is easier to achieve on full frame, but APS-C will still be good for portraits.Let me add to this. I just looked at the comparison of 5D3 vs R50, and the only major thing to me that matters is that the sensor pixel area is much smaller (185% less)At this point, the only thing I care about in the RP vs 5D3 is that the RP is really small. I dislike small cameras like that and I am hoping that I don't end up not liking my camera choice at all because of it. I like big, bulky cameras.
Does it matter in landscape and portrait photography?
If you dislike small cameras then you may not like the R50. Is there are camera store near you where you could see it?At this point, the only thing I care about in the RP vs 5D3 is that the RP is really small. I dislike small cameras like that and I am hoping that I don't end up not liking my camera choice at all because of it. I like big, bulky cameras.
I usually shoot portraits around f/8,Yeah, eye focus is a great feature, particularly with shallow depth of field,
Please explain what the bokeh of lenses has to do with AF?but that’s only really necessary with a wide lens, and only recommended with good bokeh.
That's unusual. People often go for shallower (sometimes much shallower) depth of field to isolate their subject in portraits. Higher f-stops are more common for group photos where greater depth of field is needed to capture everyone clearly, or if you want to keep the background recognizable, such as in front of a monument or Christmas tree.I usually shoot portraits around f/8,Yeah, eye focus is a great feature, particularly with shallow depth of field,
If you're trying to shoot with a shallow depth of field, you want good AF to nail the focus on your subject and also pleasing bokeh so that the resulting blurred background looks nice.Please explain what the bokeh of lenses has to do with AF?but that’s only really necessary with a wide lens, and only recommended with good bokeh.
I don't take many portraits, but this is pretty standard stuff and why nearly every wedding photographer has an 85 mm f/1.X lens in their kit.I don't see you sharing many portraits, so maybe you speak from a more theoretical point of view?
I think that’s a good choice, it’s a fine camera.Thanks all for the responses. I'm probably going to get a 5D3 because the body is much bigger and can fit my hands.
Not as unusual as you seem to think. Portrait photographers control background in numerous ways and know that shallow DoF doesn't save you from thinking about and working with the background. And Eye-AF is also useful at f/8.That's unusual. People often go for shallower (sometimes much shallower) depth of field to isolate their subject in portraits.I usually shoot portraits around f/8,Yeah, eye focus is a great feature, particularly with shallow depth of field,
I'd like to know what Mark S Abeln meant. Why Eye-AF is only necessary with shallow DoF and recommended with good bokeh. I simply can't imagine how not using Eye-AF can be helpful if you have a lens with questionable bokeh?Higher f-stops are more common for group photos where greater depth of field is needed to capture everyone clearly, or if you want to keep the background recognizable, such as in front of a monument or Christmas tree.
If you're trying to shoot with a shallow depth of field, you want good AF to nail the focus on your subject and also pleasing bokeh so that the resulting blurred background looks nice.Please explain what the bokeh of lenses has to do with AF?but that’s only really necessary with a wide lens, and only recommended with good bokeh.
The discussion with Mark S Abeln was about the advantages of Eye-AF and having sensor-wide AF point coverage. His claim that "for portraiture, you only need one focus point" is not corroborated by my experience.I don't take many portraits, but this is pretty standard stuff and why nearly every wedding photographer has an 85 mm f/1.X lens in their kit.I don't see you sharing many portraits, so maybe you speak from a more theoretical point of view?
If a lens has questionable bokeh, then maybe it isn’t suited for portraiture with a shallow DoF. Well focused junk is still junk: however, I’ll admit to blurring backgrounds in post after doing impromptu portraits with otherwise unsuitable lenses.I'd like to know what Mark S Abeln meant. Why Eye-AF is only necessary with shallow DoF and recommended with good bokeh. I simply can't imagine how not using Eye-AF can be helpful if you have a lens with questionable bokeh?
Not all portraits need shallow DoF.The discussion with Mark S Abeln was about the advantages of Eye-AF and having sensor-wide AF point coverage. His claim that "for portraiture, you only need one focus point" is not corroborated by my experience.
IMHO, it's more a question of layout than of size, but it has never mattered much to me. My first digital camera was a pocketable P&S. The 7D was comparable to the 5D in size.At this point, the only thing I care about in the RP vs 5D3 is that the RP is really small. I dislike small cameras like that and I am hoping that I don't end up not liking my camera choice at all because of it. I like big, bulky cameras.
You have $100. 100% of that is $100, so 100% less i $0. 185% less means you owe the bank $85. ;-)Let me add to this. I just looked at the comparison of 5D3 vs R50, and the only major thing to me that matters is that the sensor pixel area is much smaller (185% less)
Not as much as you apparently think.Does it matter in landscape and portrait photography?
Yeah, I mentioned that. The OP has said that they want a big camera. They may want to try the R10 instead of R50. It is tiny but has a very deep grip that feels great IMO.I notice that you have another thread running on basically the same subject only with more old dslrs tossed in. One of the posters there suggested that you look at the Canon RF50. You really should. You can buy it NEW in your price range, with a full one year warranty. It has modern AF, so it can do all the things those old dslrs can do and a lot more. You may not realize what you would be missing. Read some reviews and if possible try one at a camera store. It’s not as good as cameras that cost a lot more, but that is relative: it is still good, inexpensive, warrantied, new technology. You may like it. Beware of hair splitting distinctions. Save such ruminations for later, once you have more experience.
Fair enough. I felt “fine” with my Sigma 100-400 on the 7d2 until I tried light mirrorless cameras and realized I didn’t even know what I had been missing. I could now have optically better gear for lighter weight. I realize the weight is not important to everyone though.One day I went to downtown in my city and walked around for about 8 hours. I had a 24-70 f2.8 and a Panasonic Lumix gh5. I was fine.
Yeah, a lot of people discount ergonomics, so you were wise to handle it first. I’d suggest telling the sales person your problem and ask to try other models.Today I went to my local camera store and held the RP, but I didn't really like it. My pinky doesn't really go in the right place. IDK what to do.