Best Solar Filter for Solar Eclipse

Portraiter

New member
Messages
5
Reaction score
0
I want to capture upcoming solar eclipses, especially the pink prominences and corona during totality. Of course, I want a true solar filter that will protect from UV and IR light. For me, it is critically important that the filter allow the capture of the prominences. I am impressed by the MrStarGuy 95mm Thread-in White-Light Solar Filter because it does not tint the color of the sun. But their description does not specifically address photographing the prominences (I did write to them asking that question directly but have not heard back). I am also considering the Helios Glass Threaded Camera Solar Filter, but am a bit leery since it tints the color of the sun. (1) Has anyone used these filters and captured the prominences and corona during an eclipse? (2) What is your recommendation on the best solar filter that allows a photograph to capture prominences and corona? Thanks to the Group!
 
During totality, you don't want any filter. The prominences are only visible during totality as well as the corona and are perfectly safe to photograph or look at without any filters.. The only time you need a filter is during the partial phases.

There is a HUGE difference in the brightness of the prominences and the corona. A 1/100-1/200" exposure is fine for the prominences but the corona has a huge brightness range and requires exposure from 1/100" all the way to several seconds long and require tracking.





52307236159_6a64beb0a9_h.jpg




52307248850_078ca6897c_h.jpg
 
Last edited:
I want to capture upcoming solar eclipses, especially the pink prominences and corona during totality. Of course, I want a true solar filter that will protect from UV and IR light. For me, it is critically important that the filter allow the capture of the prominences. I am impressed by the MrStarGuy 95mm Thread-in White-Light Solar Filter because it does not tint the color of the sun. But their description does not specifically address photographing the prominences (I did write to them asking that question directly but have not heard back). I am also considering the Helios Glass Threaded Camera Solar Filter, but am a bit leery since it tints the color of the sun. (1) Has anyone used these filters and captured the prominences and corona during an eclipse? (2) What is your recommendation on the best solar filter that allows a photograph to capture prominences and corona? Thanks to the Group!
You won't capture the corona with any filter attached, during totality you remove your filter to capture the various elements of the eclipse with a wide range of exposure lengths. The two eclipses I shot (2017 and 2019) I used an automated, pre-planned and pre-practiced exposure ramping script and took exposures from 1/4000s up to 4 seconds. You also will not see the corona during an annular eclipse as the majority of the sun's light is not blocked by the moon, it's one of those elements that is only captured during a totality.

The prominences you can capture at any time using a filter like the Daystar Quark or any other kind of specialized solar telescope, those usually run >$1,000. If the prominence is big enough you MIGHT be able to capture it with a standard solar filter during the annular, otherwise again you don't use a filter when capturing a total solar eclipse and you can definitely see the prominences without any filter if they are big enough.

This is an album of my shots from the 2017 eclipse, done with a Nikon d7000 (full spectrum modified with UV/IR cut filter) and Astrotech AT65EDQ, you can see the various phases which includes prominences, corona, bailey's beads, diamond ring, earth shine, etc.

 
I'll second the previous answers. No filter during totality, the only phase of the eclipse You can see both prominences and corona, and work safely (observe/photograph) without filter.

No safe solar filter is "rated for prominences" as this is physicaly imposible. Difference of light intensity between any level of even very deep partial eclipse phase and the total phase is of several orders of magnitude. No chance to see prominences/corona beyond totality, no chance to work safely without filter too.

Regards,

-J.

PS. So just remove Your solar filter during totality (and only totality). Unless the eclipse would be spoiled by dense cloud cover (suffered it in China, 2009), You will not have doubts in which moment. Oh, belive me You won't! :)

PS.1 Simple rule of safety: If You still can see anything through Your solar filter, it's too early and You're still not in the full shadow of the Moon...
 
These responses have been spot-on ... very very helpful!! Thank you for taking the time to give me your insights.
 
During the partial phases, you must use a filter. With the soar cycle increasing, sunspots that nearly lacking on the last eclipse can provide visual interest during the lead up to the main event.

52306719281_6ffda80b46_o.jpg






52307182528_e50edd56da_o.jpg
 
During totality, you don't want any filter. The prominences are only visible during totality as well as the corona and are perfectly safe to photograph or look at without any filters.. The only time you need a filter is during the partial phases.
I assume that the OP understands this, but an annular eclipse (such as the upcoming one in October) never reaches totality and you will need a solar filter throughout--and probably will not be able to see any prominences or corona. The sun's disk is way too bright.

There are special hydrogen alpha filters or telescopes for solar observation and you can see the prominences anytime, but these are expensive (especially since they can only be used for solar observation).

Also, I;d recommend not worrying about the color of the sun through a filter--none are correct, but it's easy to fix afterward by adjusting the color temperature.
 
I had the same question and wondering if I could use something like the Celestron EclipSmart filter attached to my lens hood for easy removal/install before and after totality. I also read that attaching the film/filter further from the lens element can help with reflections if that's a problem.


I'm using a Nikon Z8 with a Z100-400 lens with a 2x TC. Any reason I couldn't use the Celestron filter strapped to the lens hood as a cheap and easy way for solar photography? This seems a lot cheaper than getting the Baader Astrosolar filter or a Thousand Oaks glass filter.
 
I had the same question and wondering if I could use something like the Celestron EclipSmart filter attached to my lens hood for easy removal/install before and after totality. I also read that attaching the film/filter further from the lens element can help with reflections if that's a problem.

https://www.bhphotovideo.com/c/product/1719336-REG/celestron_94251_eclipsmart_solar_filter_for.html

I'm using a Nikon Z8 with a Z100-400 lens with a 2x TC. Any reason I couldn't use the Celestron filter strapped to the lens hood as a cheap and easy way for solar photography? This seems a lot cheaper than getting the Baader Astrosolar filter or a Thousand Oaks glass filter.
I think You can as long as lens hood diameter is smaller than inner diameter of the filter frame. You have screws for easy (and safe!!!) fixing the filter on the tube. On one of the photos from the linked offer You have rear/inner side of the filter with some info about diameter. To be sure just try to verify it by contacting the supplier.

One caveit: I hope Your lens hood is not of petal shape (it could cause some problem with side light and safe mounting). But it's common rather for WA lenses, not tele zooms like Your Z100-400.

Note, I have no idea about optical quality of the Celestron solar filter. I was using only Baader Astrosolar and occasionally another type of polymer filter (mediocre compared to Baader) got together with small short tube Bresser refractor.

Regards,

-J.
 

Keyboard shortcuts

Back
Top