A question regarding manual focus lens

William in Canada

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When you use those manual focus lenses, how do you know the object is in the best focus? How do you know you don't need adjust focus?

"I just knew it " is not the answer :)
 
When you use those manual focus lenses, how do you know the object is in the best focus? How do you know you don't need adjust focus?

"I just knew it " is not the answer :)
 
The old fashioned way is to measure the distance to the subject and turn the dial on the lens to match.

Otherwise, the camera’s viewfinder will give you focus information. It depends on the camera and type of viewfinder (optical or EVF). Some methods include
  • Dithering prism
  • Split screen prism
  • LED indicator
  • Focus peaking highlights
However, DSLRs with optical viewfinders are not well suited for manual focus. You’d need to turn on the LED display in live mode and focus that way.

Autofocus is very fast, but manual focus is generally the most accurate.
 
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I never tried an adapted manual focus lens on a digital camera but most AF lenses can be used on MF and I don't have any problem focusing those by hand (apart from the speed ) with my EVF. I do need to go back and forth a bit and it is a slower process but at times I need to do that when my camera refuses to AF behind a twig/branch or sometime or something like that. (most often can't focus on the red part of a bird...) The image on the screen just becomes clearer just as it does on AF.Sometime the Green rectangle appears, at other times it does not.

With OVF is a different matter.
 
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The old fashioned way is to measure the distance to the subject and turn the dial on the lens to match.

Otherwise, the camera’s viewfinder will give you focus information. It depends on the camera and type of viewfinder (optical or EVF). Some methods include
  • Dithering prism
  • Split screen prism
  • LED indicator
  • Focus peaking highlights
However, DSLRs with optical viewfinders are not well suited for manual focus. You’d need to turn on the LED display in live mode and focus that way.

Autofocus is very fast, but manual focus is generally the most accurate.
Thanks

a bit confused: I would think autofocus is more accurate than manual because autofocus relies on system and manual relies on people. System is more consistent than people?
 
On my mirrorless (Panasonic M43), I have upto 10x focus point magnification either in PiP or Full screen mode, like putting on a magnifier to check the focus condition.

Then on later models there is Focus Peaking which can show the sharpest in focus point/line/edge of the frame to help MF.

These 2 MF aids can make MF easy, accurate and fun. I had adapted vintage film MF lens on my MILC back 14 years ago by a few US$ dummy adapter.

Also the IBIS which can offer a steady view all the time during MF making handhold MF easier. Before my brand uses IBIS, I would need a monopod for MF.

What I need is just a lens which has a smooth focusing ring... One of my earliest adapted film lens:



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:-)

--
Albert
** Please forgive my typo error.
** Please feel free to download my image and edit it as you like :-) **
 
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The old fashioned way is to measure the distance to the subject and turn the dial on the lens to match.

Otherwise, the camera’s viewfinder will give you focus information. It depends on the camera and type of viewfinder (optical or EVF). Some methods include
  • Dithering prism
  • Split screen prism
  • LED indicator
  • Focus peaking highlights
However, DSLRs with optical viewfinders are not well suited for manual focus. You’d need to turn on the LED display in live mode and focus that way.

Autofocus is very fast, but manual focus is generally the most accurate.
Thanks

a bit confused: I would think autofocus is more accurate than manual because autofocus relies on system and manual relies on people. System is more consistent than people?
Is it because there are the front/back focusing on DSLR's AF system? Therefore you are right if you are shooting with mirrorless and its on sensor focusing method can avoid this.

Also under the modern AF the system which might have chances to pick on the wrong focusing point (not desirable to the shooter) as well...

MF can, if under perfect focusing, address both of the above two issues.
 
Manual focus can be done as fast as AF....it's a matter of practice...or desire. Pick an area on the subject and turn the lens barrel. It's really not complicated.

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I shoot in manual (it's a preference) even AF lenses.
 
No experience on your camera.

AFAIK under OVF shooting (non Live View mode), basically focus point magnification or Focus Peaking should not be available.

Not sure under Live View mode would these MF aid features be available or not. If not, just do focusing as usual: you should still able to find the in focus area sharp. If yes, activate them to assist your MF.
 
The old fashioned way is to measure the distance to the subject and turn the dial on the lens to match.

Otherwise, the camera’s viewfinder will give you focus information. It depends on the camera and type of viewfinder (optical or EVF). Some methods include
  • Dithering prism
  • Split screen prism
  • LED indicator
  • Focus peaking highlights
However, DSLRs with optical viewfinders are not well suited for manual focus. You’d need to turn on the LED display in live mode and focus that way.

Autofocus is very fast, but manual focus is generally the most accurate.
Thanks

a bit confused: I would think autofocus is more accurate than manual because autofocus relies on system and manual relies on people. System is more consistent than people?
Autofocus doesn’t always pick the desired spot. E.g. bird’s beak or bird’s eye? Or which petal on the flower? Landscape photographers often use manual focus on a magnified live view where the detail in the distance is critical. Also, when your depth of field is extremely narrow, the distance between the eyelash and eyeball can make a difference. Another scenario where manual focus is preferred would be where one is stitching together multiple shots for a panorama - can’t have the camera changing focus from shot to shot, so AF needs to be turned off.

AF is the normal way of shooting, but there are plenty of scenarios where MF is better.
 
I use nine manual focus lenses and two with AF. I have been manually focusing for 39 years.

Manually focusing with DSLRs is a challenge. For landscapes I am primarily shooting at infinity, or I am focus stacking and using the lens markings. I have a couple of lenses where focusing through the viewfinder is reasonably accurate. Over the years I have had good success with manual focus primes in the 200 to 400mm range. I do get a focus confirmation beep with one manual focus lens. For motorsports, other landscape scenarios, and family portraits I preview the scene in Liveview and use the magnified view to determine focus and then I revert to the viewfinder for shooting. At least 75% of my manual focus images are taken from a tripod which provides the stability and time to set focus.

Cameras often choose the wrong focusing points. For critical focus of still subjects I will even turn AF off on AF lenses.

There are times in motorsports when manual focus techniques, like trap focusing, is far more reliable. For panning AF is far more reliable.

Nikon has a focus confirmation light for lenses like the Nikon 180/2.8. I used that a lot with the Nikon DSLR that I used for three years. Unfortunately Canon does not provide this for adapted manual lenses.

I think you will do reasonably well with manual focusing that lens through the viewfinder. Wider and faster lenses, like my manual 55/1.2 lens are impossible to focus through the viewfinder.
 
One thing I loved about my old Pentax DSLRs was how i could use the AF system to set the camera to only fire when it was in focus with a manual focus lens.

Mind you, AF is not 100% accurate 100% of the tome with any camera I have used.
 
Manual focus can be done as fast as AF....it's a matter of practice...or desire. Pick an area on the subject and turn the lens barrel. It's really not complicated.
But it can be a bit tricky when following a moving subject while shooting in continuous mode at perhaps 10 shots per second.
I shoot in manual (it's a preference) even AF lenses.
There are some who prefer to do things the hard way.
 
The old fashioned way is to measure the distance to the subject and turn the dial on the lens to match.

Otherwise, the camera’s viewfinder will give you focus information. It depends on the camera and type of viewfinder (optical or EVF). Some methods include
  • Dithering prism
  • Split screen prism
  • LED indicator
  • Focus peaking highlights
However, DSLRs with optical viewfinders are not well suited for manual focus. You’d need to turn on the LED display in live mode and focus that way.

Autofocus is very fast, but manual focus is generally the most accurate.
Thanks

a bit confused: I would think autofocus is more accurate than manual because autofocus relies on system and manual relies on people. System is more consistent than people?
William, you are absolutely correct. A camera AF system, unless you have a crappy camera with crappy lenses, is WAY more accurate than MF, don't let anyone tell you otherwise. Maybe on live view on a rock solid tripod with x10 magnification the best you'll get is the same as the camera on AF and that's if the subject is stationary.

If you're using a deep dof you could use focus peaking(FP) on some cameras but with very shallow DoF and if the subject is constantly moving with FP you'll miss focus. The cameras computer system is probably 1000x faster and more accurate than the human world champion focus king.

As Bob said in the old days there was ground glass and split screens etc but that was only because there was NO choice but MF.

A modern ML camera is so fast and accurate you'd only by a MF lens if you were flat broke!!!

John
 
I shoot in manual (it's a preference) even AF lenses.
There are some who prefer to do things the hard way.
My granny once told a tale of a young couple standing up on a hammock…

I sold an inexpensive, fully automatic camera to a friend, but he rejected it on the grounds that there were no manual controls. He replaced it with a mid-range Canon DSLR and never used any of the excellent automatic features. The results were not impressive, mostly demonstrating poor MF.
 
Provided you have time and your subject is not moving manual focus can be more accurate/precise.

As mentioned Mirrorless cameras have focus magnification aids that allow for easy manual focus will allow you to really dial in and see what you are focusing on. Auto Focus is still superior in any setting where the subject is moving or you are rushed.

The alternative method involves some sort of hyperfocal / distance based setting. On wide to normal focal lengths one can often visually measure the distance of their subject and set the manual focusing distance to that amount and get approx. half of what is before the subject as well as what is after the subject in acceptable focus. If something is extremely close to the camera your success will vary. Also with very long focal lengths this method can be flawed so primarily a good option for 50 mm and under on your ASPC camera.

Even easier if you have a very wide lens under 20mm for your ASPC camera it is actually remarkably easy to just set the manual focus to a distance like 2 meters with middle aperture like F8 and go around shooting most everything in perfect focus like a range finder camera. Works really well but only on the very wide focal lengths.

Manual focus of a telephoto length without focusing magnification type aids I wouldn't do that other than an infinity type setting for moon/star type shots. The distances are just too great to accurately guess by eye.

--
Online Gallery here
https://www.mattreynoldsphotography.com/
 
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When you use those manual focus lenses, how do you know the object is in the best focus? How do you know you don't need adjust focus?

"I just knew it " is not the answer :)
My subject matter is often complicated, so even using the MF override with autofocus, I'll focus in/out to find the precise point I need. Quite often, I have to focus between two points, so there is nothing in clear focus when I press the shutter button.
 

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