High ISO vs 64

[Models By Day]

I don't know why every time I start doing outdoor/street my camera is always on high iso but it shows that even at high iso the Z7ii is not bad

Had a chance today to walk to the Don Valley to finally get some pictures.


High ISO


ISO 64 (my favourite ASA from Film days, Kodakchrome 64)

Need to find a Kodakchrome film profile/preset

 

[Quarkcharmed]

I don't know why every time I start doing outdoor/street my camera is always on high iso but it shows that even at high iso the Z7ii is not bad

Being "not bad" probably depends on your requirements to the image quality. I can see a lot of noise, the foliage turns into a mess, "Vote for Nick Pachis" sign is not readable etc.

Had a chance today to walk to the Don Valley to finally get some pictures.


High ISO


ISO 64 (my favourite ASA from Film days, Kodakchrome 64)

Need to find a Kodakchrome film profile/preset

--
https://www.instagram.com/quarkcharmed/
https://500px.com/quarkcharmed

 

[Martin_99]

Question is, why you set so bad exposure parameters on first photo? f22 and 1/8000 is nonsense to use for such shot. ISO had to go high to balance the exposure. Balanced setting would be something like f11 and 1/500 with correspondingly significantly lower ISO.

I suggest to use aperture mode with autoISO and minSS or manual mode with autoISO.

 

[kciuk aka Ken60]

May I, at chance of seeming rude.... which I do not intend, suggest the OP looks for a copy of Hyperfocal Pro to run on his mobile phone. When considering a shot and lens used, it is easy to plug this into the App and see the depth of field created by the combination. No point hugely exceeding what is required and moving into ISO levels that spoil the image. Another issue with very small apertures is that diffraction starts to destroy detail too.

It is all rather like a spending spree, where it is no point walking out in hand made leather brogues, wearing budget shorts and a T shirt. By learning the best balance of settings you can benefit all parts of your exposure.

If you want to use Auto ISO , many cameras allow for a range to be selected, so perhaps 100 - 800 iso could be specified as a reasonable range to avoid golf balls. With your 70mm lens and cars moving towards you < 50 mph 1/500 to 1/1000 sec would most probably suffice , so your 1/8000 sec is costing you 3 stops ... and your f22 2 stops from a usable f11 ... meaning you could have easily shot at around 400 iso and had far nicer smooth image.

With a full frame camera and a 70mm lens focused on 60 meters you would be sharp from 12 m to infinity . ( rough figures)

 

[mreynolds767]

I mean as a torture test ; at F22 , ISO 12800 is better than I would have expected, so that is a positive. Not sure that combination in real world would ever be used on purpose.

 

[Models By Day]

I mean as a torture test ; at F22 , ISO 12800 is better than I would have expected, so that is a positive. Not sure that combination in real world would ever be used on purpose.

It was accidentally , as I was doing Astrophotography the night before and left my camera on High ISO.

I just did some HI ISO tests with my D300 and ouch mind you it was not bad at that time 13 years ago.

It only goes to 6400 (3200 + H1)


D300 ISO 6400






Z7ii ISO 6400

 

[Gary from Seattle]

The difference in noise (see sky) and detail are pretty substantial.

 

[mreynolds767]

Has definitely come a long way since! Of course the noise is visible and fine detail gone when zooming in but at thumbnail size is hard to tell much from your first images but easy to see with your D300 examples.

The lens also has something to do with it as you are at well past diffraction point in your 2 examples (f22 on 1 and f20 on the other) so hard to say how much is the sensor and how much is the lens difference.

Will say that noise tends to hide in the shadows so testing ISO 12800 in sunlight may give you better results than a test at night when you would actually use such an ISO.

--
Online Gallery here
https://www.mattreynoldsphotography.com/

 

[Models By Day]

Will say that noise tends to hide in the shadows so testing ISO 12800 in sunlight may give you better results than a test at night when you would actually use such an ISO.

I was not even really planning on comparing D300 12mp DX to Z7ii 45mp FF

But looks like I may just need to do more extensive tests , Night tests.

1. D300 (ISO 3200 max) +H1

2. D7100 (ISO 6400 max) +H1 +H2

3. Z7ii (ISO 25600 max) +H1 +H2

Not sure what lens I should use.

1. Nikkor 50mm 1:1.8D

2. Nikkor 16-85 DX

 

[mreynolds767]

Will say that noise tends to hide in the shadows so testing ISO 12800 in sunlight may give you better results than a test at night when you would actually use such an ISO.

I was not even really planning on comparing D300 12mp DX to Z7ii 45mp FF

But looks like I may just need to do more extensive tests , Night tests.

1. D300 (ISO 3200 max) +H1

2. D7100 (ISO 6400 max) +H1 +H2

3. Z7ii (ISO 25600 max) +H1 +H2

Not sure what lens I should use.

1. Nikkor 50mm 1:1.8D

2. Nikkor 16-85 DX

But why test at all especially on the old cameras. The Z7 will obviously be superior.

Do a test in low light with your new camera to find out what ISO you can personally tolerate and then you have all you need to know moving forward.

Shoot at a normal aperture too.

Lens only matters if comparing detail / softness which was more aperture related since you were using F20 , F22 ; will not matter for your ISO tolerance or amount of noise you will see.