LED Light Panel for Macro Photography

[Zed H]

Hello Members,

I am reaching out to seek your guidance and recommendations on getting the LED Light panels for macro photography. I found some reviews on YouTube however, most of these reviews are focused on videography.

I am more interested for LED panels as I would be using these to experiment various shots with my Z mount 105mm 2.8G. Your guidance in this regard will be highly appreciated.

Looking forward......


Zahid HAFEEZ

 

[Mike Engles]

Been there. Really not enough light to to allow high shutter speeds to freeze images, like flash does, as well as high apertures for DOF. You end up,using high ISOs and then have to mess with NR

I have two, but with batteries, much heavier than flash, for the light output

 

[c h u n k]

Been there. Really not enough light to to allow high shutter speeds to freeze images, like flash does, as well as high apertures for DOF. You end up,using high ISOs and then have to mess with NR

I have two, but with batteries, much heavier than flash, for the light output

Depends what the use is. I clicked thread bc Im about to buy some but some people get results. Using them for single shots in place of flash def does NOT make sense. But people are using them to do hand held stacks too. The options with current cameras are to use flash, which means using mechanical shutter and slow burst rate. You also have to use external power source for the flash to keep up even at regular burst. Its very doable though - Look at project Maritus. He gets like 30 frames on a 5DIV and twin flash or speedlight.

The other option is, of course, using LED panels. One guy was just in a convo with me about it in another thread. Cant remember his name - he shoots the stacks of sand/garnets and some spiders with a single Godox LED panel. Remember, you dont have to stop way down as the DOF is managed with the stacking.

Like I said, I havent tried them myself yet, but Ive seen images made with them and its definitely doable.

 

[c h u n k]

Hello Members,

I am reaching out to seek your guidance and recommendations on getting the LED Light panels for macro photography. I found some reviews on YouTube however, most of these reviews are focused on videography.

I am more interested for LED panels as I would be using these to experiment various shots with my Z mount 105mm 2.8G. Your guidance in this regard will be highly appreciated.

Looking forward......

Zahid HAFEEZ

What is your reason for wanting constant light vs flash? Flash is usually the best option, but for some more advanced techniques, as I posted in last response, LEDs seems to be a solution.

 

[Zed H]

HI Chunk,

Thanks for your feedback.

I am considering the LCD panels due to cost factor as I can get two LED panels for almost USD 200 whereas Flash lights will be expensive proposition.

Thanks and Regards

Zahid HAFEEZ

 

[jonbev]

I think you guys should explore the benefits of Panels, I bit the bullet and acquired an Andoer W64, very expensive (sixteen dollars) plus shipping, an amazing light, and ideal for outside macro work. Good luck.

 

[c h u n k]

HI Chunk,

Thanks for your feedback.

I am considering the LCD panels due to cost factor as I can get two LED panels for almost USD 200 whereas Flash lights will be expensive proposition.

Thanks and Regards

Zahid HAFEEZ

You can get good flashes for less than $80. Look at Godox or Yongnuo. I suggest Godox if you want to grow a light kit. If you just want a single flash and dont expect to do more, then either is fine.

 

[Mike Engles]

On a really bright day, to be able to use say 1/1000 to freeze movement and say f11, you will need a ISO of 500. That is with daylight. How much brighter will a panel have to be, to better this. I have experimented with this, using 2 LEDs one taking a Sony rechargable and the other 4 NIMH batteries, I was getting to ISO of 2000 and much over that. You have to get a double arm to mount these as well as somehow secure them to... what? The whole thing is so front heavy, that it is almost impossible to hold steadily.

One light has 160 LEDs, un diffused and the other 96 diffused. In the un diffued one you see the LEDs in any reflection. Once you add a good diffuser, the light loss is considerable. I have also experimented using the brighter light with diffuser and a flash. Also very heavy. You will not notice the LED as the flash is so bright even at 1/64 power. The two LEDs and batteries,will set back more than a cheap flash. LED lights will work very well with still life macros and the use of a tripod. They will allow you to model the subject. They are not much use for anything to be wielded in a field or garden.

This year I took several hundred pictures using that combination. I have thrown them away, much too noisy. I do not use heavy NR. If you are prepared to, you might get away with it. You might be on better ground to use magnifications of x1 or greater, as the LED can be really bright at close working distances. It is not bright enough at half life size, if you wish to get some DOF and use lower ISOs.

LEDs might be sufficient for stacking, as f4 or 5.6 might be enough to give high shutter speeds and low ISO.

 

[c h u n k]

On a really bright day, to be able to use say 1/1000 to freeze movement and say f11, you will need a ISO of 500. That is with daylight. How much brighter will a panel have to be, to better this. I have experimented with this, using 2 LEDs one taking a Sony rechargable and the other 4 NIMH batteries, I was getting to ISO of 2000 and much over that. You have to get a double arm to mount these as well as somehow secure them to... what? The whole thing is so front heavy, that it is almost impossible to hold steadily.

One light has 160 LEDs, un diffused and the other 96 diffused. In the un diffued one you see the LEDs in any reflection. Once you add a good diffuser, the light loss is considerable. I have also experimented using the brighter light with diffuser and a flash. Also very heavy. You will not notice the LED as the flash is so bright even at 1/64 power. The two LEDs and batteries,will set back more than a cheap flash. LED lights will work very well with still life macros and the use of a tripod. They will allow you to model the subject. They are not much use for anything to be wielded in a field or garden.

This year I took several hundred pictures using that combination. I have thrown them away, much too noisy. I do not use heavy NR. If you are prepared to, you might get away with it. You might be on better ground to use magnifications of x1 or greater, as the LED can be really bright at close working distances. It is not bright enough at half life size, if you wish to get some DOF and use lower ISOs.

LEDs might be sufficient for stacking, as f4 or 5.6 might be enough to give high shutter speeds and low ISO.

Like I said, there is no point for f11 in the scenarios you would use this for. More like 2.8 - 4. That brings you back down to below base iso so diffusion is then fine. Sounds like it would be fine. Also, iso 500 is NO PROBLEM for my cameras.

I dont know why in the world anyone would even attempt this for single exposures. I cant imagine ome reason. But for stacking multiple exposures, ability to use electronic shutter, in camera bracketing, super high speed bursts for stacking handheld, it makes tons of sense...and its being done well.

I also, if you are happy with F/11 at 1:2 magnification, Im sure F8 is very doable. That would have brought iso to around 250 which any camera should be fine with. I have some shots at lower mags with my R7 and iso 2000 which are fine. I mean they needed some processing and noise reduction, but it was relatively mild NR.

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[Mike Engles]

I think I gave both sides of the story, but as you might have gathered, I favour single, shot using positioning to maximise DOF.and control of lighting to make images look as natural as possible.In a way to me, impressive as they are,the human eye cannot take in all the detail stacked images produce and instead focus on the irregularities that actually catch the eye, because they look 'odd'.

 

[c h u n k]

I think I gave both sides of the story, but as you might have gathered, I favour single, shot using positioning to maximise DOF.and control of lighting to make images look as natural as possible.In a way to me, impressive as they are,the human eye cannot take in all the detail stacked images produce and instead focus on the irregularities that actually catch the eye, because they look 'odd'.

Some stacks are no good, very distracting and, as you said, look odd. But many others are incredible and I dont think look odd at all. Deeper dof on its own can be distracting in any genre of photography. I just processed a large stack of an orb weaver, but Im going to redo it with less stacked to bring focus back to only head/eyes.

Either way, there is a place for focus stacking even if its not your thing. I primarily shoot single frames myself and like to use some background color or environment the insect is standing on or perched in. But even in those types of shots, Ive seen incredible uses for stacking. Like I said, for your use, there is certainly no point in constant light. I still dont understand why you would habe even attempted it for single frames at higher fstop. Clearly, its use is for wider apertures and stacking, or for photographing, say mushrooms where using a tripod is practical.

 

[Pedagydusz]

[…] One guy was just in a convo with me about it in another thread. Cant remember his name - he shoots the stacks of sand/garnets and some spiders with a single Godox LED panel. […]

i think you are talking about onofone25, in case you want to check this out

 

[c h u n k]

[…] One guy was just in a convo with me about it in another thread. Cant remember his name - he shoots the stacks of sand/garnets and some spiders with a single Godox LED panel. […]

i think you are talking about onofone25, in case you want to check this out