First M4/3 photos

[Hornsbee]

I've been using a Panasonic LX3 for a few years but wanted to try wildlife. After considering many options, I found an Olympus combo for sale locally at a price I could not resist. Spent a couple weeks in the manual, familiarizing myself with the camera and finally took it out last weekend to find some subjects. Probably not the best time of day but next time I'll choose some better light. Although I'm happy with these results I know they could have been much better without the deep shadows and highlights. No matter, it was a lot of fun chasing these little birds who never stood still for a second and with having a zoom to get close is fantastic!

My next task is to identify all these birds.

 

[Ontarian]

Very nice. You are off to a great start.

Don

 

[kitjephotos]

I've been using a Panasonic LX3 for a few years but wanted to try wildlife. After considering many options, I found an Olympus combo for sale locally at a price I could not resist. Spent a couple weeks in the manual, familiarizing myself with the camera and finally took it out last weekend to find some subjects. Probably not the best time of day but next time I'll choose some better light. Although I'm happy with these results I know they could have been much better without the deep shadows and highlights. No matter, it was a lot of fun chasing these little birds who never stood still for a second and with having a zoom to get close is fantastic!

My next task is to identify all these birds.

Identifying plants and birds is the fun part of photography, too. Lovely pictures.

 

[Hornsbee]

Very nice. You are off to a great start.

Don

Thanks Don. A friend of mine a pro photographer gave me some simple advice: Familiarize yourself with the camera manual but start with basic settings. Master them then all the controls on your camera. He said today's cameras are like learning to play a musical instrument where you need to find all the buttons by reflex otherwise you'll be producing sour notes. I think he was right about that. The summary of his advice was one step at a time. Lastly he said in music you need to have an "ear" for it, in photography you have to have an "eye" for it.

He was right about the musical instrument though. Made me think about my piano lessons many years ago. I didn't try to play a Beethoven piano concerto the fist week. Seems same applies with these cameras. Learning the keys/notes then cords, then practice, practice practice.

 

[Marko_Finland]

Lovely set of waders. Looking forward to more bird shots from you

Marko

 

[Hornsbee]

I've been using a Panasonic LX3 for a few years but wanted to try wildlife. After considering many options, I found an Olympus combo for sale locally at a price I could not resist. Spent a couple weeks in the manual, familiarizing myself with the camera and finally took it out last weekend to find some subjects. Probably not the best time of day but next time I'll choose some better light. Although I'm happy with these results I know they could have been much better without the deep shadows and highlights. No matter, it was a lot of fun chasing these little birds who never stood still for a second and with having a zoom to get close is fantastic!

My next task is to identify all these birds.




Identifying plants and birds is the fun part of photography, too. Lovely pictures.

Yes, it is fun and interesting not only to identify these birds but also learn of their migration, matting/non mating colors, juvenile colors male vs female etc etc.

I'm finding many of these birds look so much like others and it takes careful study to get an exact ID.

 

[Parshua]

Although I'm happy with these results I know they could have been much better without the deep shadows and highlights.

I don't quite understand what you mean by that, but a couple of hints based on my own experience:

1. If these are jpegs, you can control highlight and shadow curves in the camera, quite effectively at that.

2. If RAW, you should keep in mind that Olympus cameras usually under expose the RAW up to 2/3 of a stop to prevent highlight blow out. To get better RAW files, you can tell the camera to over expose half a stop, enable the shadow/highlight view in view finder, and control it manually yourself. You will get better results that way.

 

[Hornsbee]

Lovely set of waders. Looking forward to more bird shots from you

Marko

Thanks Marko. I'm excited to explore a lot of wildlife photography but my only problem is getting the time. I just got a promotion at work which is good $$$ but much less free time:-(

My friend who gave me advice on my new gear also told me to focus on my photography and stay away from gear reviews. I think he's spot on about that.

 

[Hornsbee]

Although I'm happy with these results I know they could have been much better without the deep shadows and highlights.

I don't quite understand what you mean by that, but a couple of hints based on my own experience:

1. If these are jpegs, you can control highlight and shadow curves in the camera, quite effectively at that.

2. If RAW, you should keep in mind that Olympus cameras usually under expose the RAW up to 2/3 of a stop to prevent highlight blow out. To get better RAW files, you can tell the camera to over expose half a stop, enable the shadow/highlight view in view finder, and control it manually yourself. You will get better results that way.

Hi Parshua, I shot raw per advice from my friend a pro photographer. He walked me through editing and told me bad light cannot be properly overcome in edits. And suggested better light. I tend to agree with that. Shooting in good light is what pros do, don't they?

I've seen some spectacular photos of these birds shot in early morning or early evening and it's absolutely clear to me that's the best time. A couple of my birds were Ok but others were beyond highlight recovery. We tried to recover them but it's just not possible. Excessive shadow & highlight recovery created some very unpleasant images.

I'll do the right thing next time and try not to cripple my photos then try to salvage them.

Thanks

 

[Ergellegre]

Lovely. Good light and birds, accurately depicted, get lower

 

[Hornsbee]

Lovely. Good light and birds, accurately depicted, get lower

Thanks,

 

[Parshua]

Although I'm happy with these results I know they could have been much better without the deep shadows and highlights.

I don't quite understand what you mean by that, but a couple of hints based on my own experience:

1. If these are jpegs, you can control highlight and shadow curves in the camera, quite effectively at that.

2. If RAW, you should keep in mind that Olympus cameras usually under expose the RAW up to 2/3 of a stop to prevent highlight blow out. To get better RAW files, you can tell the camera to over expose half a stop, enable the shadow/highlight view in view finder, and control it manually yourself. You will get better results that way.

Hi Parshua, I shot raw per advice from my friend a pro photographer. He walked me through editing and told me bad light cannot be properly overcome in edits. And suggested better light. I tend to agree with that. Shooting in good light is what pros do, don't they?

I've seen some spectacular photos of these birds shot in early morning or early evening and it's absolutely clear to me that's the best time. A couple of my birds were Ok but others were beyond highlight recovery. We tried to recover them but it's just not possible. Excessive shadow & highlight recovery created some very unpleasant images.

I'll do the right thing next time and try not to cripple my photos then try to salvage them.

Thanks

That is true indeed. You can't fix a photo taken in bad light. But post production can enhance a good photo quite a lot, and helping the camera capture to its full potential is the first step in that regard. That was my point.

 

[seanofford]

Grey Plover, Turnstone, Dunlin, Bar-tailed Godwit

 

[Hornsbee]

Although I'm happy with these results I know they could have been much better without the deep shadows and highlights.

I don't quite understand what you mean by that, but a couple of hints based on my own experience:

1. If these are jpegs, you can control highlight and shadow curves in the camera, quite effectively at that.

2. If RAW, you should keep in mind that Olympus cameras usually under expose the RAW up to 2/3 of a stop to prevent highlight blow out. To get better RAW files, you can tell the camera to over expose half a stop, enable the shadow/highlight view in view finder, and control it manually yourself. You will get better results that way.

Hi Parshua, I shot raw per advice from my friend a pro photographer. He walked me through editing and told me bad light cannot be properly overcome in edits. And suggested better light. I tend to agree with that. Shooting in good light is what pros do, don't they?

I've seen some spectacular photos of these birds shot in early morning or early evening and it's absolutely clear to me that's the best time. A couple of my birds were Ok but others were beyond highlight recovery. We tried to recover them but it's just not possible. Excessive shadow & highlight recovery created some very unpleasant images.

I'll do the right thing next time and try not to cripple my photos then try to salvage them.

Thanks

That is true indeed. You can't fix a photo taken in bad light. But post production can enhance a good photo quite a lot, and helping the camera capture to its full potential is the first step in that regard. That was my point.

Hi, I understand the benefits of raw editing as upon the advice of my pro friend I'm taking a Digital photography course which includes mastering Photoshop editing. Of course I've already learned that rule # 1 is shoot in good light. Rule # 2 is don't waste time trying to salvage a bad photo instead get it right to begin with. That in itself eliminates a lot of wasted time trying to salvage a photo I could retake.

I'm glad Im studying not only digital photography but also digital editing. I've already learned a lot and I would suggest many in these forums would benefit from learning how to do it right. While in college I worked as a groundskeeper on a private golf course and I was permitted to play a round on maintenance day when the course was closed to members. At times the course pro would join me and helped me develop essential basic golf skills. Pro told me its was easier to learn the correct skills than it was to correct aged bad habits. He was 100% right as most members who played golf their entire lives never had one great game!

I'm glad to have this opportunity to learn the right skills but I'll also admit I should not have posted those half baked images. Next time I will get it right!

Thanks

 

[Hornsbee]

Grey Plover, Turnstone, Dunlin, Bar-tailed Godwit

Thanks,

I plan to get a bird ID app for my phone.

 

[seanofford]

Grey Plover, Turnstone, Dunlin, Bar-tailed Godwit

Thanks,

I plan to get a bird ID app for my phone.

Get the Collins Bird Guide app. Far and away the best.

 

[Hornsbee]

Grey Plover, Turnstone, Dunlin, Bar-tailed Godwit

Thanks,

I plan to get a bird ID app for my phone.

Get the Collins Bird Guide app. Far and away the best.

Hi,

I just saw your message & thanks.

I decided on iBird Pro which I think is truly amazing! Not only bird ID, bird sounds, range habitat and via wifi/cellular an encyclopedia of birds. I also got Audubon Bird Guide, a free app and rather good. I'm now armed in bird ID knowledge but need to sharpen my photo skills!

 

[Isabel Cutler]

Wonderful first set of pictures!

I can imagine your delight with micro43 after "suffering" the LX3 which produced gorgeous pictures for me despite it's viewfinder I couldn't see outside!

It really was a terrific camera, otherwise.

If I can suggest a couple of aids for IDing your birds: #1 Google Lens in your phone, and ##2 the Merlin app for your phone as well. I recently learned to appreciate Merlin's identification of bird calls. You just turn on the app and it will "hear" the bird calls and ID them for you. You can download some info for your area that will help Merlin decide what your birds may be.

Isabel

 

[Hornsbee]

Wonderful first set of pictures!

I can imagine your delight with micro43 after "suffering" the LX3 which produced gorgeous pictures for me despite it's viewfinder I couldn't see outside!

It really was a terrific camera, otherwise.

If I can suggest a couple of aids for IDing your birds: #1 Google Lens in your phone, and ##2 the Merlin app for your phone as well. I recently learned to appreciate Merlin's identification of bird calls. You just turn on the app and it will "hear" the bird calls and ID them for you. You can download some info for your area that will help Merlin decide what your birds may be.

Isabel

Thanks Isabel,

That LX3 has traveled with me more than all my friends combined! Four continents and thousands of photos. That little thing captured a lot of memories. I'm thinking of getting an Lx100 for its added features and of course sensor.

Before I received suggestions on bird ID apps I got iBird. Being my first, it's amazing to me but I'll keep Merlin in mind.

Google lens is really amazing! I heard of it but never knew what it did. Odd name though for what it does but nonetheless amazing!

 

[Isabel Cutler]

Thanks Isabel,

That LX3 has traveled with me more than all my friends combined! Four continents and thousands of photos. That little thing captured a lot of memories. I'm thinking of getting an Lx100 for its added features and of course sensor.

Before I received suggestions on bird ID apps I got iBird. Being my first, it's amazing to me but I'll keep Merlin in mind.

Google lens is really amazing! I heard of it but never knew what it did. Odd name though for what it does but nonetheless amazing!

You're very welcome...and kudos for your patience with the LX3 and its limitations. It did have great IQ, didn't it? Loved its dynamic(?) b/w mode.

Isabel