ES vs MS for sunstars?

[vegetaleb]

Reading this article https://photographylife.com/mechanical-electronic-shutter-efcs made me wonder if indeed electronic shutter is the way to go for sunstars

I am indeed encountering what he called ''sunstar flare'' in many of my sunstars photos , somehow less concentrated and only at the bottom of the sun, I will try ES next time I will be at the ski resort, but I also wonder if it will reduce the infamous mirrorless sensor green and magenta spots?

Did you try ES with your sunstars? If yes do you recommend it?

An example of the sensor spots that are all around the sun in this photo very noticeable on the tree on the left, I would love to avoid them



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For lenses reviews and tutorials about Fuji Raf editing https://fujiandstuff.wordpress.com/
My shutterstock https://www.shutterstock.com/g/jeffmerheb
My Flickr https://www.flickr.com/photos/147690104@N02/

 

[Erik Baumgartner]

Reading this article https://photographylife.com/mechanical-electronic-shutter-efcs made me wonder if indeed electronic shutter is the way to go for sunstars

I am indeed encountering what he called ''sunstar flare'' in many of my sunstars photos , somehow less concentrated and only at the bottom of the sun, I will try ES next time I will be at the ski resort, but I also wonder if it will reduce the infamous mirrorless sensor green and magenta spots?

Did you try ES with your sunstars? If yes do you recommend it?

An example of the sensor spots that are all around the sun in this photo very noticeable on the tree on the left, I would love to avoid them

Most people would much prefer this effect to just a burnt hole in the sky (including me). The effect is due to aperture blade diffraction spikes, so I can’t imagine using the ES would make any difference. If you want to avoid (or greatly reduce) the effect, simply don’t stop down so far - shoot at f/5.6 or f/8 instead. You’ll still have plenty of DOF at 18mm and significantly sharper results too.

The colored spots are sensor reflections and can usually be avoided with a very slight change in camera angle, usually visible in the EVF. I doubt the ES would help here either, but there’s one way to find out - do a comparison next time.

 

[lewiedude2]

ES. I was experimenting. Right one are headlights from a car. Middle are parking lot lights from the side of the building. Left one looks best and is a parking lot security light.

 

[McWoodley]

I’m with Erik, I see this being more of a characteristic of the lens and no effect of MS or ES. Coincidentally I believe I have some photos from yesterday with the 18 1.4 and sun stars. I think some might have been taken with ES. I’ll review later and if I have ones with ES and MS I’ll post.

 

[vegetaleb]

I’m with Erik, I see this being more of a characteristic of the lens and no effect of MS or ES. Coincidentally I believe I have some photos from yesterday with the 18 1.4 and sun stars. I think some might have been taken with ES. I’ll review later and if I have ones with ES and MS I’ll post.

Thanks

 

[vegetaleb]

Reading this article https://photographylife.com/mechanical-electronic-shutter-efcs made me wonder if indeed electronic shutter is the way to go for sunstars

I am indeed encountering what he called ''sunstar flare'' in many of my sunstars photos , somehow less concentrated and only at the bottom of the sun, I will try ES next time I will be at the ski resort, but I also wonder if it will reduce the infamous mirrorless sensor green and magenta spots?

Did you try ES with your sunstars? If yes do you recommend it?

An example of the sensor spots that are all around the sun in this photo very noticeable on the tree on the left, I would love to avoid them

Most people would much prefer this effect to just a burnt hole in the sky (including me). The effect is due to aperture blade diffraction spikes, so I can’t imagine using the ES would make any difference. If you want to avoid (or greatly reduce) the effect, simply don’t stop down so far - shoot at f/5.6 or f/8 instead. You’ll still have plenty of DOF at 18mm and significantly sharper results too.

The colored spots are sensor reflections and can usually be avoided with a very slight change in camera angle, usually visible in the EVF. I doubt the ES would help here either, but there’s one way to find out - do a comparison next time.

What about a cpl? It will help slowing a bit the shutter speed so the sunstar would get only the nicest flares, no?

--
For lenses reviews and tutorials about Fuji Raf editing https://fujiandstuff.wordpress.com/
My shutterstock https://www.shutterstock.com/g/jeffmerheb
My Flickr https://www.flickr.com/photos/147690104@N02/

 

[oscarvdvelde]

Erik Baumgartner wrote: If you want to avoid (or greatly reduce) the effect, simply don’t stop down so far - shoot at f/5.6 or f/8 instead.

I think this is a good solution. It will avoid the excessive flaring out of the flare tips as well?

 

[vegetaleb]

Reading this article https://photographylife.com/mechanical-electronic-shutter-efcs made me wonder if indeed electronic shutter is the way to go for sunstars

I am indeed encountering what he called ''sunstar flare'' in many of my sunstars photos , somehow less concentrated and only at the bottom of the sun, I will try ES next time I will be at the ski resort, but I also wonder if it will reduce the infamous mirrorless sensor green and magenta spots?

Did you try ES with your sunstars? If yes do you recommend it?

An example of the sensor spots that are all around the sun in this photo very noticeable on the tree on the left, I would love to avoid them

Most people would much prefer this effect to just a burnt hole in the sky (including me). The effect is due to aperture blade diffraction spikes, so I can’t imagine using the ES would make any difference. If you want to avoid (or greatly reduce) the effect, simply don’t stop down so far - shoot at f/5.6 or f/8 instead. You’ll still have plenty of DOF at 18mm and significantly sharper results too.

The colored spots are sensor reflections and can usually be avoided with a very slight change in camera angle, usually visible in the EVF. I doubt the ES would help here either, but there’s one way to find out - do a comparison next time.

So we had 10mn of sun today, I took some shots with and without the cpl as well as ES and MS.

The ES gave the best results with no "fat" flare at the bottom it also reduces the green spots, they are still there but far less obvious, the cpl filter helped reduce the shutter speed to help with MS as the slower the better to avoid the fat flare. Well yeah I will definitely use ES next time for my landscape sunstar photos

--
For lenses reviews and tutorials about Fuji Raf editing https://fujiandstuff.wordpress.com/
My shutterstock https://www.shutterstock.com/g/jeffmerheb
My Flickr https://www.flickr.com/photos/147690104@N02/

 

[McWoodley]

Pretty sure these were all ES. I was doing some testing with other compositions doing focus stacks so I was trying to eliminate the possibility of shutter shock and had it in ES. FWIW I also find it depends a lot on where you place the star in your composition. Some locations seem to flare others not so much.

All SOOC.











Example of a slightly different position and more flare.

 

[vegetaleb]

Pretty sure these were all ES. I was doing some testing with other compositions doing focus stacks so I was trying to eliminate the possibility of shutter shock and had it in ES. FWIW I also find it depends a lot on where you place the star in your composition. Some locations seem to flare others not so much.

All SOOC.





Example of a slightly different position and more flare.

The 1st 2 are amazing,definitely next time at the ski slopes I will use ES

--
For lenses reviews and tutorials about Fuji Raf editing https://fujiandstuff.wordpress.com/
My shutterstock https://www.shutterstock.com/g/jeffmerheb
My Flickr https://www.flickr.com/photos/147690104@N02/