canon imagePROGRAF PRO-1000 paper

[DC27]

Hi! Can I use cheap canon paper like canon Photo Paper Glossy? It’s because I want to experiment with the printer but don’t want to use expensive paper and the closest profile I can find on the printer is the Photo Paper Plus Glossy II, can I use this profile?

 

[soloryb]

Hi! Can I use cheap canon paper like canon Photo Paper Glossy? It’s because I want to experiment with the printer but don’t want to use expensive paper and the closest profile I can find on the printer is the Photo Paper Plus Glossy II, can I use this profile?

You can set any profile for use with any paper. You may or may not like the results.

Are referring specifically to the choices provided for printing found in the Canon Pro-1000 software dialog box, where Glossy II is listed and Glossy is not? If so, then make a small print on your Glossy paper using the Glossy II choice and see how it looks.

Also, some dialog box choices will switch the printer to the rear feed only - but you can still feed any paper.

 

[ProDude]

I've used the Glossy II paper at 4x6, 5x7 and 8.5x11 a number of times with my Pro1000. Works great. My favorite and preferred paper however is their Pro Luster by far. It's my general "go to" for sure. I stick with Canon native papers for best results.

 

[Priscilla Turner]

I'm using this printer all the time, with 100% cotton, ordinary lustre and ordinary matte of other brands that I can obtain in bulk as sheets or in roll form. The only differences that I notice are small almost imperceptible colour-balance variations from brand to brand with the same printing settings. If it matters that everything should match exactly in a given print run, I take care not to change papers in midstream.

 

[soloryb]

I'm using this printer all the time, with 100% cotton, ordinary lustre and ordinary matte of other brands that I can obtain in bulk as sheets or in roll form. The only differences that I notice are small almost imperceptible colour-balance variations from brand to brand with the same printing settings. If it matters that everything should match exactly in a given print run, I take care not to change papers in midstream.

Are you using paper/printer profiles in PS, LR or any other advanced photo-editing sofware? Or, are you allowing the printer to control the colors?

There are lots of reasons that you see color variations from different papers, especially with differing brands. The paper material, use (or not) of optical brighteners, the surface reflectivity, differing manufacturer's coatings and the whiteness of the paper fiber itself will all contribute to these variations. These variations also occur even within the same brand for different types of papers. A wet print will vary in color compared to a dry one. Varnishing can change colors quite a lot. Even the light the prints are viewed in can affect how colors are seen.

Paper profiles (softproofing) help to somewhat control all this but it cannot eliminate the color variations.

 

[soloryb]

I've used the Glossy II paper at 4x6, 5x7 and 8.5x11 a number of times with my Pro1000. Works great. My favorite and preferred paper however is their Pro Luster by far. It's my general "go to" for sure. I stick with Canon native papers for best results.

I like Canon Pro Luster for general photos but prefer Canson papers (non-OB) for important prints. I believe Canon papers contain optical brighteners which will change the print over time and exposure to UV and the atmosphere.

In any event, the Pro-1000 produces beautiful prints from just about any kind of paper.

 

[Gesture]

Why RC papers with pigment inks?

 

[soloryb]

Why RC papers with pigment inks?

I use Canon Photo Paper Pro Luster pre-cut sheets, not Premium RC Photo Luster that I've seen in rolls. I don't know how they differ or whether the stuff I use is RC. In any event, I use it mostly to print small snaps. I use Canson papers - mainly Print Maker - for larger work.

Now, why should pigment inks not be used on resin coated luster papers? I'm probably missing something here.

 

[Priscilla Turner]

I'm using this printer all the time, with 100% cotton, ordinary lustre and ordinary matte of other brands that I can obtain in bulk as sheets or in roll form. The only differences that I notice are small almost imperceptible colour-balance variations from brand to brand with the same printing settings. If it matters that everything should match exactly in a given print run, I take care not to change papers in midstream.

Are you using paper/printer profiles in PS, LR or any other advanced photo-editing sofware? Or, are you allowing the printer to control the colors?

For ordinary Lustre and Matte papers I let the printer control the colours. It reckons with some OBA effects.

For 100% matte cotton I choose Matte Photo Paper, and use Epson's profile for Ultrasmooth FA or Hotpress Natural, or else the IP Cool/Warm Tone profile as Inkpress recommend for this printer, depending on what I'm actually feeding into the printer. For the gently glossy Moab Juniper Baryta I choose Photo Paper Pro Platinum as Moab themselves tell one to do, and have downloaded their own profile for this paper/printer combo.

The resultant colours for the same image are remarkably close.

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[soloryb]

I'm using this printer all the time, with 100% cotton, ordinary lustre and ordinary matte of other brands that I can obtain in bulk as sheets or in roll form. The only differences that I notice are small almost imperceptible colour-balance variations from brand to brand with the same printing settings. If it matters that everything should match exactly in a given print run, I take care not to change papers in midstream.

Are you using paper/printer profiles in PS, LR or any other advanced photo-editing sofware? Or, are you allowing the printer to control the colors?

For ordinary Lustre and Matte papers I let the printer control the colours. It reckons with some OBA effects.

For 100% matte cotton I choose Matte Photo Paper, and use Epson's profile for Ultrasmooth FA or Hotpress Natural, or else the IP Cool/Warm Tone profile as Inkpress recommend for this printer, depending on what I'm actually feeding into the printer. For the gently glossy Moab Juniper Baryta I choose Photo Paper Pro Platinum as Moab themselves tell one to do, and have downloaded their own profile for this paper/printer combo.

The resultant colours for the same image are remarkably close.

The presence of optical brighteners (fluorescing additives) causes printed images to change over time from exposure to UV and the atmosphere. The OBAs chemically break down and stop brightening the whites in the paper. The paper whiteness diminishes and any ink overlayed on its surface shifts in color as a result. Inks themselves also fade over time for the same reason, but not as fast as that OBA breakdown. No printer or editing software can control for these effects.

Allowing your printer to control colors will not allow you to get the best color matching between what you see on a calibrated monitor and what you see on your print. That's the idea behind using paper/printer profiles and softproofing in PS, LR and other similar editing software.

Printer-controlled colors may get you in the ballpark, but that's about it. When the printer controls colors, you cannot make use of any imported profiles. Imported profiles are only applied from within editing software.

 

[Gesture]

Not interested in OBAs but also can live with them if they are in a paper I want to use for other reasons. Wonder why manufacturers couldn't have found another way to "brighten" the paper.

There are some printmaking/watercolor papers that are quite bright. Would have to try and find out what's involved.

 

[Molydoly]

Hi! Can I use cheap canon paper like canon Photo Paper Glossy? It’s because I want to experiment with the printer but don’t want to use expensive paper and the closest profile I can find on the printer is the Photo Paper Plus Glossy II, can I use this profile?

There are loads of various coatings utilized for making shiny paper, some of which will ruin the fuser in a laser printer and some of which function admirably.

At the point when I initially began working prepress, we would purchase reflexive paper uniquely intended for laser printers. I appear to review it was preferably costly a few times more over normal printer paper. (It's made by Hammermill; you can observe it at strength paper stores, and I bet you can most likely think that it is online as well.)

The lustrous paper made for inkjet printers truly isn't great for laser printers. Ideally, you need to dismantle it and scratch the gunk off the fuser rollers. Thinking pessimistically, you want to supplant the entire fuser get together.

You can stack plain paper or photograph paper. If you slice plain paper to a size of 5" x 7" (13 x 18 cm) or more modest to play out a preliminary attempt, it might cause a paper jam. We suggest Canon real photograph paper for printing photographs.

 

[soloryb]

Not interested in OBAs but also can live with them if they are in a paper I want to use for other reasons. Wonder why manufacturers couldn't have found another way to "brighten" the paper.

There are some printmaking/watercolor papers that are quite bright. Would have to try and find out what's involved.

I don't worry about OBA content in papers for simple snap shots. For anything that I spend lots of editing, mounting and framing time on, I use papers without OBA content. Many Canson papers - such as Print Maker for example - are very white without OBAs.

As to why paper manufacturers use fluorescent optical brighteners instead of other ways to brighten their whites, it has to be lower cost. OBA papers sure have bright whites when they first sell them so to heck with what happens to a print when its colors go dull after a few years.

 

[Priscilla Turner]

Not interested in OBAs but also can live with them if they are in a paper I want to use for other reasons. Wonder why manufacturers couldn't have found another way to "brighten" the paper.

There are some printmaking/watercolor papers that are quite bright. Would have to try and find out what's involved.

The way to find out in detail for particular papers is to run a search and then look at the fine print (!) about the specs. Sometimes when there are two versions of a paper, e.g. Epson Hot Press Bright and Warm, the Bright version will certainly have OBAs and even look 'cooler' to the naked eye. The printer set to that for colour will compensate. And yes, there will be yellowing over time, depending partly on how you glaze. Epson UltraSmooth is warmish. Use the official profiles and you will get something virtually identical colourwise for now.

Moab provide downloadable profiles for this printer, Inkpress commend Canon's own: http://www.inkpresspaper.com/profiles.asp?PaperID=29 for Inkpress Rag Warm Tone as an example , and for their other papers too.

I'm trying with my counsel here to simplify life for someone just starting out with the PRO-1000. He is not nearly as experienced as some of us.

 

[R M S]

Hi! Can I use cheap canon paper like canon Photo Paper Glossy? It’s because I want to experiment with the printer but don’t want to use expensive paper and the closest profile I can find on the printer is the Photo Paper Plus Glossy II, can I use this profile?

There are loads of various coatings utilized for making shiny paper, some of which will ruin the fuser in a laser printer and some of which function admirably.

At the point when I initially began working prepress, we would purchase reflexive paper uniquely intended for laser printers. I appear to review it was preferably costly a few times more over normal printer paper. (It's made by Hammermill; you can observe it at strength paper stores, and I bet you can most likely think that it is online as well.)

The lustrous paper made for inkjet printers truly isn't great for laser printers. Ideally, you need to dismantle it and scratch the gunk off the fuser rollers. Thinking pessimistically, you want to supplant the entire fuser get together.

You can stack plain paper or photograph paper. If you slice plain paper to a size of 5" x 7" (13 x 18 cm) or more modest to play out a preliminary attempt, it might cause a paper jam. We suggest Canon real photograph paper for printing photographs.

Sorry to ask, maybe I’m mis-reading you post, but why are you referring to laser printers?

the Pro 1000 is a 12 ink inkjet device (well 11 iks plus gloss to be more precise)