What are your U1, U2, and U3 Settings on GR III(x)

Started 3 months ago | Discussions
Starny Senior Member • Posts: 1,070
What are your U1, U2, and U3 Settings on GR III(x)
2

I have an incoming GR III and I'm curious what settings you guys save and Box Name as Ricoh calls it.

And according to the owner's manual, there is U1, U2, and U3, but also 3 more spots for up to 6 custom settings.

Are the last 3 custom settings only accessible via the monitor?

Appreciate any feedback.

 Starny's gear list:Starny's gear list
Ricoh GR III
Ricoh GR III
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ViMa
ViMa Senior Member • Posts: 1,847
Re: What are your U1, U2, and U3 Settings on GR III(x)

I have My1 named Street but it is basically my go-to for daylight shooting outdoors. In the GR III it's set in Aperture priority at f8, ISO 1600 (I don't mind high ISO and would rather have a high shutter speed, especially when shooting monochrome which I generally do) and snap focus at 1.5 or 2 (my GR III is on its way to MPB as I await my GR IIIx so can't check). WB is at daylight and I have a monotone preset that is as flat as possible. I mostly use the histogram to deal with the exposure.

My2 is named Night and is my go-to indoors or night shooting. It is Aperture priority at f2.8, ISO 6400, flat monochrome, multi auto WB and single point AF with full press snap enabled. I've been using this most of the time as I'm more or less confined home with a baby.

My3 is named Travel and is my main mode when travelling but also in general when I'm doing "dedicated photography" where I can take some more time to compose etc. (Not street or portraits). It's set on manual at f8, ISO100 and SS100 with auto WB and a flat monochrome setting as above. It's single shot AF but I've set the FN button for switch to manual focus (My1 and My2 I have been trying crop mode for my FN button, tentatively).

I have another setting called IR saved, in which I have the WB and settings saved for when I used a 500smth IR filter I have for monochrome IR photography. I have used that maybe once so far.

There's a way to access the other 3 settings but you can only use 3 at a time. Basically you relegate 3 of your 6 saved settings to your 3 options.

-- hide signature --

Cheers,
Vittorio
_________________________________________________
https://www.flickr.com/photos/155724624@N06/

 ViMa's gear list:ViMa's gear list
Ricoh GR III Ricoh GR IIIx
OP Starny Senior Member • Posts: 1,070
Re: What are your U1, U2, and U3 Settings on GR III(x)

ViMa wrote:

I have My1 named Street but it is basically my go-to for daylight shooting outdoors. In the GR III it's set in Aperture priority at f8, ISO 1600 (I don't mind high ISO and would rather have a high shutter speed, especially when shooting monochrome which I generally do) and snap focus at 1.5 or 2 (my GR III is on its way to MPB as I await my GR IIIx so can't check). WB is at daylight and I have a monotone preset that is as flat as possible. I mostly use the histogram to deal with the exposure.

My2 is named Night and is my go-to indoors or night shooting. It is Aperture priority at f2.8, ISO 6400, flat monochrome, multi auto WB and single point AF with full press snap enabled. I've been using this most of the time as I'm more or less confined home with a baby.

My3 is named Travel and is my main mode when travelling but also in general when I'm doing "dedicated photography" where I can take some more time to compose etc. (Not street or portraits). It's set on manual at f8, ISO100 and SS100 with auto WB and a flat monochrome setting as above. It's single shot AF but I've set the FN button for switch to manual focus (My1 and My2 I have been trying crop mode for my FN button, tentatively).

I have another setting called IR saved, in which I have the WB and settings saved for when I used a 500smth IR filter I have for monochrome IR photography. I have used that maybe once so far.

There's a way to access the other 3 settings but you can only use 3 at a time. Basically you relegate 3 of your 6 saved settings to your 3 options.

Thank you for your excellent response ViMa.

So, in your My1 example, the only variable would be shutter speed and maybe EC via the control dial?  On a mostly sunny day your exposure would need to be changed for bright sunlight to sunny but under a cloud, so you just change up your shutter speed in this case?

I am still trying to wrap my head around the Snap Focus feature.  I could possibly understand this at night because many have complained about its low-light focusing abilities, but why would you want this during the day?  Just for some type of preset DOF?

I would probably be ok with just the three U1, U2, and U3 settings on the Mode Dial...but who knows!  I will probably try some video but my Sony is much better at it, and oddly, probably my smart phone too, from what I'm hearing.

 Starny's gear list:Starny's gear list
Ricoh GR III
maltmoose Senior Member • Posts: 2,481
Re: What are your U1, U2, and U3 Settings on GR III(x)

Ive got u1 as my primary snap mode. With a minimum shutter speed that is high enough to freeze some movement and aperature high enough to give a good depth of field.

U2 ive been changing around and experimenting. Currently experimenting with the wide dof setting for p mode.

U3 is my long exposure setting, with 2 sec time fixed iso 100 etc.

I have a closeup setting which uses manual mode saved in a box, tbh i never use it as its quicker to just change my manual settings in m mode on dial.

OP Starny Senior Member • Posts: 1,070
Re: What are your U1, U2, and U3 Settings on GR III(x)

maltmoose wrote:

Ive got u1 as my primary snap mode. With a minimum shutter speed that is high enough to freeze some movement and aperature high enough to give a good depth of field.

U2 ive been changing around and experimenting. Currently experimenting with the wide dof setting for p mode.

U3 is my long exposure setting, with 2 sec time fixed iso 100 etc.

I have a closeup setting which uses manual mode saved in a box, tbh i never use it as its quicker to just change my manual settings in m mode on dial.

Thanks maltmoose.

Would something like this make sense for an instant must capture (gotta have) photo in U1?

1/250, f2.8, ISO 100.

Can I assume at these settings that if the software feels a scene is blown out that the ND filter will take over if left on Auto?  Does the ND filter only work in jpeg?  I'm not sure I've ever seen an in-camera ND filter before.

I know many people will say, if you gotta have it pump up the ISO very high and close it down some, more or less what you're doing I think.

 Starny's gear list:Starny's gear list
Ricoh GR III
maltmoose Senior Member • Posts: 2,481
Re: What are your U1, U2, and U3 Settings on GR III(x)

Starny wrote:

maltmoose wrote:

Ive got u1 as my primary snap mode. With a minimum shutter speed that is high enough to freeze some movement and aperature high enough to give a good depth of field.

U2 ive been changing around and experimenting. Currently experimenting with the wide dof setting for p mode.

U3 is my long exposure setting, with 2 sec time fixed iso 100 etc.

I have a closeup setting which uses manual mode saved in a box, tbh i never use it as its quicker to just change my manual settings in m mode on dial.

Thanks maltmoose.

Would something like this make sense for an instant must capture (gotta have) photo in U1?

1/250, f2.8, ISO 100.

No i wouldnt use that with snap as 2.8 the dof will be thin, better to use f8 in A mode or P mode with the deep dof setting. Iso100 assumes you will always have plenty of light

1/250 will be ok as minimum for people, faster for faster things like dogs, bikes etc.

Good idea to set auto iso, better to have high shutter to freeze motion and higher aperture like f8 for wide dof to capture more in focus.

A bit of grain with higher iso is better than blurred image.

Can I assume at these settings that if the software feels a scene is blown out that the ND filter will take over if left on Auto? Does the ND filter only work in jpeg? I'm not sure I've ever seen an in-camera ND filter before.

Nd filter is only 2 stops. And works in raw and jpeg. Leave in auto untill you know why you need to change it. but you can still under and over expose. If you exceed the max shutter speed auto nd will save you upto 2 stops over exposure.

I know many people will say, if you gotta have it pump up the ISO very high and close it down some, more or less what you're doing I think.

I would recommend p mode and auto iso until you get to grips with it.

I use p mode for walk around, gets the job done nice and simple, when i need more control i changed modes.

OP Starny Senior Member • Posts: 1,070
Re: What are your U1, U2, and U3 Settings on GR III(x)

maltmoose wrote:

Starny wrote:

maltmoose wrote:

Ive got u1 as my primary snap mode. With a minimum shutter speed that is high enough to freeze some movement and aperature high enough to give a good depth of field.

U2 ive been changing around and experimenting. Currently experimenting with the wide dof setting for p mode.

U3 is my long exposure setting, with 2 sec time fixed iso 100 etc.

I have a closeup setting which uses manual mode saved in a box, tbh i never use it as its quicker to just change my manual settings in m mode on dial.

Thanks maltmoose.

Would something like this make sense for an instant must capture (gotta have) photo in U1?

1/250, f2.8, ISO 100.

No i wouldnt use that with snap as 2.8 the dof will be thin, better to use f8 in A mode or P mode with the deep dof setting. Iso100 assumes you will always have plenty of light

1/250 will be ok as minimum for people, faster for faster things like dogs, bikes etc.

Good idea to set auto iso, better to have high shutter to freeze motion and higher aperture like f8 for wide dof to capture more in focus.

A bit of grain with higher iso is better than blurred image.

Can I assume at these settings that if the software feels a scene is blown out that the ND filter will take over if left on Auto? Does the ND filter only work in jpeg? I'm not sure I've ever seen an in-camera ND filter before.

Nd filter is only 2 stops. And works in raw and jpeg. Leave in auto untill you know why you need to change it. but you can still under and over expose. If you exceed the max shutter speed auto nd will save you upto 2 stops over exposure.

I know many people will say, if you gotta have it pump up the ISO very high and close it down some, more or less what you're doing I think.

I would recommend p mode and auto iso until you get to grips with it.

I use p mode for walk around, gets the job done nice and simple, when i need more control i changed modes.

My main thought with f2.8 was to just get light to the sensor no matter the conditions.  If it focuses correctly at least I'd have a photo but little DOF.

On my Sony I have the ISO capped at 12,800, which, hard to believe, is still on the edge of usable.  I'll probably do the same with the GR III unless I hear differently.  However, I would like to try a grainy Hi-Contrast shot some time.

From what I've read P mode is basically the Auto mode for this camera.  So I'm assuming the index finger front dial operates both the shutter speed and/or aperture depending which way you rotate it, right?

 Starny's gear list:Starny's gear list
Ricoh GR III
ViMa
ViMa Senior Member • Posts: 1,847
Re: What are your U1, U2, and U3 Settings on GR III(x)
1

Starny wrote:

ViMa wrote:

I have My1 named Street but it is basically my go-to for daylight shooting outdoors. In the GR III it's set in Aperture priority at f8, ISO 1600 (I don't mind high ISO and would rather have a high shutter speed, especially when shooting monochrome which I generally do) and snap focus at 1.5 or 2 (my GR III is on its way to MPB as I await my GR IIIx so can't check). WB is at daylight and I have a monotone preset that is as flat as possible. I mostly use the histogram to deal with the exposure.

My2 is named Night and is my go-to indoors or night shooting. It is Aperture priority at f2.8, ISO 6400, flat monochrome, multi auto WB and single point AF with full press snap enabled. I've been using this most of the time as I'm more or less confined home with a baby.

My3 is named Travel and is my main mode when travelling but also in general when I'm doing "dedicated photography" where I can take some more time to compose etc. (Not street or portraits). It's set on manual at f8, ISO100 and SS100 with auto WB and a flat monochrome setting as above. It's single shot AF but I've set the FN button for switch to manual focus (My1 and My2 I have been trying crop mode for my FN button, tentatively).

I have another setting called IR saved, in which I have the WB and settings saved for when I used a 500smth IR filter I have for monochrome IR photography. I have used that maybe once so far.

There's a way to access the other 3 settings but you can only use 3 at a time. Basically you relegate 3 of your 6 saved settings to your 3 options.

Thank you for your excellent response ViMa.

So, in your My1 example, the only variable would be shutter speed and maybe EC via the control dial?

Yes, or in the unlikely case I wished to change the snap focus distance. Sometimes I'd also change ISO.

On a mostly sunny day your exposure would need to be changed for bright sunlight to sunny but under a cloud, so you just change up your shutter speed in this case?

Yes and no. Since it's aperture priority, I don't change anything - the camera does it for me. I'd only change exposure compensation if I'm not happy with the exposure.

I am still trying to wrap my head around the Snap Focus feature. I could possibly understand this at night because many have complained about its low-light focusing abilities, but why would you want this during the day? Just for some type of preset DOF?

I took a while before I realised how much greater this is than I initially thought. I used to only have it as full press snap. Think of snap focus as a really well implemented zone focus. You have it at a preset distance and aperture and with the GR III you know your shots will be in focus from 1 to 6 metres (say). Therefore you don't even have to think of focussing when out and about, unless your subject is closer or further than that. In that case, simply change the snap focus. Snap focus will always be faster than the fastest autofocus, but you need to learn to gauge distance with your eyes. With the GR IIIx I expect this to become much harder, but I'll try.

I would probably be ok with just the three U1, U2, and U3 settings on the Mode Dial...but who knows! I will probably try some video but my Sony is much better at it, and oddly, probably my smart phone too, from what I'm hearing.

I basically only use those 3. As for video, I'd suggest you forget it exists. I've remapped my video button to the ND filter (which I rarely remember to use other than when I mount my 16 stop NDs and they are not enough for long exposures - Greece can be very bright.

If you have a 6 year old phone or newer, your video will be better.

-- hide signature --

Cheers,
Vittorio
_________________________________________________
https://www.flickr.com/photos/155724624@N06/

 ViMa's gear list:ViMa's gear list
Ricoh GR III Ricoh GR IIIx
OP Starny Senior Member • Posts: 1,070
Re: What are your U1, U2, and U3 Settings on GR III(x)

ViMa wrote:

Starny wrote:

ViMa wrote:

I have My1 named Street but it is basically my go-to for daylight shooting outdoors. In the GR III it's set in Aperture priority at f8, ISO 1600 (I don't mind high ISO and would rather have a high shutter speed, especially when shooting monochrome which I generally do) and snap focus at 1.5 or 2 (my GR III is on its way to MPB as I await my GR IIIx so can't check). WB is at daylight and I have a monotone preset that is as flat as possible. I mostly use the histogram to deal with the exposure.

My2 is named Night and is my go-to indoors or night shooting. It is Aperture priority at f2.8, ISO 6400, flat monochrome, multi auto WB and single point AF with full press snap enabled. I've been using this most of the time as I'm more or less confined home with a baby.

My3 is named Travel and is my main mode when travelling but also in general when I'm doing "dedicated photography" where I can take some more time to compose etc. (Not street or portraits). It's set on manual at f8, ISO100 and SS100 with auto WB and a flat monochrome setting as above. It's single shot AF but I've set the FN button for switch to manual focus (My1 and My2 I have been trying crop mode for my FN button, tentatively).

I have another setting called IR saved, in which I have the WB and settings saved for when I used a 500smth IR filter I have for monochrome IR photography. I have used that maybe once so far.

There's a way to access the other 3 settings but you can only use 3 at a time. Basically you relegate 3 of your 6 saved settings to your 3 options.

Thank you for your excellent response ViMa.

So, in your My1 example, the only variable would be shutter speed and maybe EC via the control dial?

Yes, or in the unlikely case I wished to change the snap focus distance. Sometimes I'd also change ISO.

How do you go to and from Snap Focus to Auto Focus?  "Fn" button?  What is your opinion of Manual Focus?  Must be somewhat difficult with the monitor only.  Do you use the MF Auto Magnifier and does the Focus Bar on the left actually help?

On a mostly sunny day your exposure would need to be changed for bright sunlight to sunny but under a cloud, so you just change up your shutter speed in this case?

Yes and no. Since it's aperture priority, I don't change anything - the camera does it for me. I'd only change exposure compensation if I'm not happy with the exposure.

So your U1 or U2, etc., is more or less a starting point for exposure, not really fixed?

I am still trying to wrap my head around the Snap Focus feature. I could possibly understand this at night because many have complained about its low-light focusing abilities, but why would you want this during the day? Just for some type of preset DOF?

I took a while before I realised how much greater this is than I initially thought. I used to only have it as full press snap. Think of snap focus as a really well implemented zone focus. You have it at a preset distance and aperture and with the GR III you know your shots will be in focus from 1 to 6 metres (say). Therefore you don't even have to think of focussing when out and about, unless your subject is closer or further than that. In that case, simply change the snap focus. Snap focus will always be faster than the fastest autofocus, but you need to learn to gauge distance with your eyes. With the GR IIIx I expect this to become much harder, but I'll try.

Does the monitor show the DOF depending on distance and aperture in Snap?

I would probably be ok with just the three U1, U2, and U3 settings on the Mode Dial...but who knows! I will probably try some video but my Sony is much better at it, and oddly, probably my smart phone too, from what I'm hearing.

I basically only use those 3. As for video, I'd suggest you forget it exists. I've remapped my video button to the ND filter (which I rarely remember to use other than when I mount my 16 stop NDs and they are not enough for long exposures - Greece can be very bright.

If you have a 6 year old phone or newer, your video will be better.

I am not planning to use the video function at all.  I even reprogrammed the video button on my Sony to Aspect Ratio I think.  I can still shoot video since the top dial has a video notch and then I just start a video with the shutter release.

 Starny's gear list:Starny's gear list
Ricoh GR III
ViMa
ViMa Senior Member • Posts: 1,847
Re: What are your U1, U2, and U3 Settings on GR III(x)

Starny wrote:

ViMa wrote:

Starny wrote:

ViMa wrote:

I have My1 named Street but it is basically my go-to for daylight shooting outdoors. In the GR III it's set in Aperture priority at f8, ISO 1600 (I don't mind high ISO and would rather have a high shutter speed, especially when shooting monochrome which I generally do) and snap focus at 1.5 or 2 (my GR III is on its way to MPB as I await my GR IIIx so can't check). WB is at daylight and I have a monotone preset that is as flat as possible. I mostly use the histogram to deal with the exposure.

My2 is named Night and is my go-to indoors or night shooting. It is Aperture priority at f2.8, ISO 6400, flat monochrome, multi auto WB and single point AF with full press snap enabled. I've been using this most of the time as I'm more or less confined home with a baby.

My3 is named Travel and is my main mode when travelling but also in general when I'm doing "dedicated photography" where I can take some more time to compose etc. (Not street or portraits). It's set on manual at f8, ISO100 and SS100 with auto WB and a flat monochrome setting as above. It's single shot AF but I've set the FN button for switch to manual focus (My1 and My2 I have been trying crop mode for my FN button, tentatively).

I have another setting called IR saved, in which I have the WB and settings saved for when I used a 500smth IR filter I have for monochrome IR photography. I have used that maybe once so far.

There's a way to access the other 3 settings but you can only use 3 at a time. Basically you relegate 3 of your 6 saved settings to your 3 options.

Thank you for your excellent response ViMa.

So, in your My1 example, the only variable would be shutter speed and maybe EC via the control dial?

Yes, or in the unlikely case I wished to change the snap focus distance. Sometimes I'd also change ISO.

How do you go to and from Snap Focus to Auto Focus? "Fn" button? What is your opinion of Manual Focus? Must be somewhat difficult with the monitor only. Do you use the MF Auto Magnifier and does the Focus Bar on the left actually help?

If i'm shooting Snap Focus proper, then I just change focus from the quick option via the back wheel press (where y ou change exposure compensation). If I'm on full press snap, i'm already on AF. I do not use the magnifier. Even when I shot with the manual mitakon f0.95, I hated the magnifier.

On a mostly sunny day your exposure would need to be changed for bright sunlight to sunny but under a cloud, so you just change up your shutter speed in this case?

Yes and no. Since it's aperture priority, I don't change anything - the camera does it for me. I'd only change exposure compensation if I'm not happy with the exposure.

So your U1 or U2, etc., is more or less a starting point for exposure, not really fixed?

It's fixed for U1 and U2 in that I could simply change to that and shoot and know I'll get a +/-0 Exposure with those settings, but I change the settings when needed. If it's really bright outside, for instance, I'll lower the ISO.

I am still trying to wrap my head around the Snap Focus feature. I could possibly understand this at night because many have complained about its low-light focusing abilities, but why would you want this during the day? Just for some type of preset DOF?

I took a while before I realised how much greater this is than I initially thought. I used to only have it as full press snap. Think of snap focus as a really well implemented zone focus. You have it at a preset distance and aperture and with the GR III you know your shots will be in focus from 1 to 6 metres (say). Therefore you don't even have to think of focussing when out and about, unless your subject is closer or further than that. In that case, simply change the snap focus. Snap focus will always be faster than the fastest autofocus, but you need to learn to gauge distance with your eyes. With the GR IIIx I expect this to become much harder, but I'll try.

Does the monitor show the DOF depending on distance and aperture in Snap?

It does. It's really helpful.

I would probably be ok with just the three U1, U2, and U3 settings on the Mode Dial...but who knows! I will probably try some video but my Sony is much better at it, and oddly, probably my smart phone too, from what I'm hearing.

I basically only use those 3. As for video, I'd suggest you forget it exists. I've remapped my video button to the ND filter (which I rarely remember to use other than when I mount my 16 stop NDs and they are not enough for long exposures - Greece can be very bright.

If you have a 6 year old phone or newer, your video will be better.

I am not planning to use the video function at all. I even reprogrammed the video button on my Sony to Aspect Ratio I think. I can still shoot video since the top dial has a video notch and then I just start a video with the shutter release.

-- hide signature --

Cheers,
Vittorio
_________________________________________________
https://www.flickr.com/photos/155724624@N06/

 ViMa's gear list:ViMa's gear list
Ricoh GR III Ricoh GR IIIx
OP Starny Senior Member • Posts: 1,070
Re: What are your U1, U2, and U3 Settings on GR III(x)

ViMa wrote:

Starny wrote:

ViMa wrote:

Starny wrote:

ViMa wrote:

I have My1 named Street but it is basically my go-to for daylight shooting outdoors. In the GR III it's set in Aperture priority at f8, ISO 1600 (I don't mind high ISO and would rather have a high shutter speed, especially when shooting monochrome which I generally do) and snap focus at 1.5 or 2 (my GR III is on its way to MPB as I await my GR IIIx so can't check). WB is at daylight and I have a monotone preset that is as flat as possible. I mostly use the histogram to deal with the exposure.

My2 is named Night and is my go-to indoors or night shooting. It is Aperture priority at f2.8, ISO 6400, flat monochrome, multi auto WB and single point AF with full press snap enabled. I've been using this most of the time as I'm more or less confined home with a baby.

My3 is named Travel and is my main mode when travelling but also in general when I'm doing "dedicated photography" where I can take some more time to compose etc. (Not street or portraits). It's set on manual at f8, ISO100 and SS100 with auto WB and a flat monochrome setting as above. It's single shot AF but I've set the FN button for switch to manual focus (My1 and My2 I have been trying crop mode for my FN button, tentatively).

I have another setting called IR saved, in which I have the WB and settings saved for when I used a 500smth IR filter I have for monochrome IR photography. I have used that maybe once so far.

There's a way to access the other 3 settings but you can only use 3 at a time. Basically you relegate 3 of your 6 saved settings to your 3 options.

Thank you for your excellent response ViMa.

So, in your My1 example, the only variable would be shutter speed and maybe EC via the control dial?

Yes, or in the unlikely case I wished to change the snap focus distance. Sometimes I'd also change ISO.

How do you go to and from Snap Focus to Auto Focus? "Fn" button? What is your opinion of Manual Focus? Must be somewhat difficult with the monitor only. Do you use the MF Auto Magnifier and does the Focus Bar on the left actually help?

If i'm shooting Snap Focus proper, then I just change focus from the quick option via the back wheel press (where y ou change exposure compensation). If I'm on full press snap, i'm already on AF. I do not use the magnifier. Even when I shot with the manual mitakon f0.95, I hated the magnifier.

I apologize in advance for asking questions without having the camera in my hands, but I am somewhat confused on what the back top wheel does.  It seems like most of the time it changes the shutter speed but if you press it the wheel changes to EC?  I am really looking forward to having two dedicated and intuitive dials for shutter and aperture in M mode.  And from what I've read, when in M mode, the back lower control dial changes the EC.

On a mostly sunny day your exposure would need to be changed for bright sunlight to sunny but under a cloud, so you just change up your shutter speed in this case?

Yes and no. Since it's aperture priority, I don't change anything - the camera does it for me. I'd only change exposure compensation if I'm not happy with the exposure.

So your U1 or U2, etc., is more or less a starting point for exposure, not really fixed?

It's fixed for U1 and U2 in that I could simply change to that and shoot and know I'll get a +/-0 Exposure with those settings, but I change the settings when needed. If it's really bright outside, for instance, I'll lower the ISO.

But if you're in U1, let's say, and you've programmed in f-stop 2.8, you can still change it on the fly, right?  All settings can be changed in U1 just not saved unless you want them saved?

I am still trying to wrap my head around the Snap Focus feature. I could possibly understand this at night because many have complained about its low-light focusing abilities, but why would you want this during the day? Just for some type of preset DOF?

I took a while before I realised how much greater this is than I initially thought. I used to only have it as full press snap. Think of snap focus as a really well implemented zone focus. You have it at a preset distance and aperture and with the GR III you know your shots will be in focus from 1 to 6 metres (say). Therefore you don't even have to think of focussing when out and about, unless your subject is closer or further than that. In that case, simply change the snap focus. Snap focus will always be faster than the fastest autofocus, but you need to learn to gauge distance with your eyes. With the GR IIIx I expect this to become much harder, but I'll try.

Does the monitor show the DOF depending on distance and aperture in Snap?

It does. It's really helpful.

I would probably be ok with just the three U1, U2, and U3 settings on the Mode Dial...but who knows! I will probably try some video but my Sony is much better at it, and oddly, probably my smart phone too, from what I'm hearing.

I basically only use those 3. As for video, I'd suggest you forget it exists. I've remapped my video button to the ND filter (which I rarely remember to use other than when I mount my 16 stop NDs and they are not enough for long exposures - Greece can be very bright.

If you have a 6 year old phone or newer, your video will be better.

I am not planning to use the video function at all. I even reprogrammed the video button on my Sony to Aspect Ratio I think. I can still shoot video since the top dial has a video notch and then I just start a video with the shutter release.

 Starny's gear list:Starny's gear list
Ricoh GR III
ViMa
ViMa Senior Member • Posts: 1,847
Re: What are your U1, U2, and U3 Settings on GR III(x)

Starny wrote:

ViMa wrote:

Starny wrote:

ViMa wrote:

Starny wrote:

ViMa wrote:

I have My1 named Street but it is basically my go-to for daylight shooting outdoors. In the GR III it's set in Aperture priority at f8, ISO 1600 (I don't mind high ISO and would rather have a high shutter speed, especially when shooting monochrome which I generally do) and snap focus at 1.5 or 2 (my GR III is on its way to MPB as I await my GR IIIx so can't check). WB is at daylight and I have a monotone preset that is as flat as possible. I mostly use the histogram to deal with the exposure.

My2 is named Night and is my go-to indoors or night shooting. It is Aperture priority at f2.8, ISO 6400, flat monochrome, multi auto WB and single point AF with full press snap enabled. I've been using this most of the time as I'm more or less confined home with a baby.

My3 is named Travel and is my main mode when travelling but also in general when I'm doing "dedicated photography" where I can take some more time to compose etc. (Not street or portraits). It's set on manual at f8, ISO100 and SS100 with auto WB and a flat monochrome setting as above. It's single shot AF but I've set the FN button for switch to manual focus (My1 and My2 I have been trying crop mode for my FN button, tentatively).

I have another setting called IR saved, in which I have the WB and settings saved for when I used a 500smth IR filter I have for monochrome IR photography. I have used that maybe once so far.

There's a way to access the other 3 settings but you can only use 3 at a time. Basically you relegate 3 of your 6 saved settings to your 3 options.

Thank you for your excellent response ViMa.

So, in your My1 example, the only variable would be shutter speed and maybe EC via the control dial?

Yes, or in the unlikely case I wished to change the snap focus distance. Sometimes I'd also change ISO.

How do you go to and from Snap Focus to Auto Focus? "Fn" button? What is your opinion of Manual Focus? Must be somewhat difficult with the monitor only. Do you use the MF Auto Magnifier and does the Focus Bar on the left actually help?

If i'm shooting Snap Focus proper, then I just change focus from the quick option via the back wheel press (where y ou change exposure compensation). If I'm on full press snap, i'm already on AF. I do not use the magnifier. Even when I shot with the manual mitakon f0.95, I hated the magnifier.

I apologize in advance for asking questions without having the camera in my hands, but I am somewhat confused on what the back top wheel does.

That's okay.

It seems like most of the time it changes the shutter speed but if you press it the wheel changes to EC?

I think by default the back one always does exposure compensation, and if you press it rather than toggle it, it gives you up to 4 quick setting options. If in manual mode, it does shutter speed unless you swap them around.

I've never shot shutter priority but I think the shutter speed would be the front wheel there too.

I am really looking forward to having two dedicated and intuitive dials for shutter and aperture in M mode.

In M mode, you can choose whether the back one is Aperture or Shutter Speed.

Andnd from what I've read, when in M mode, the back lower control dial changes the EC.

It does. Unless you have manual ISO.

On a mostly sunny day your exposure would need to be changed for bright sunlight to sunny but under a cloud, so you just change up your shutter speed in this case?

Yes and no. Since it's aperture priority, I don't change anything - the camera does it for me. I'd only change exposure compensation if I'm not happy with the exposure.

So your U1 or U2, etc., is more or less a starting point for exposure, not really fixed?

It's fixed for U1 and U2 in that I could simply change to that and shoot and know I'll get a +/-0 Exposure with those settings, but I change the settings when needed. If it's really bright outside, for instance, I'll lower the ISO.

But if you're in U1, let's say, and you've programmed in f-stop 2.8, you can still change it on the fly, right?

Of course. An when you turn the camera on, it remembers the previous settings, even if they have been changed from the Mysetting.

All settings can be changed in U1 just not saved unless you want them saved?

I am still trying to wrap my head around the Snap Focus feature. I could possibly understand this at night because many have complained about its low-light focusing abilities, but why would you want this during the day? Just for some type of preset DOF?

I took a while before I realised how much greater this is than I initially thought. I used to only have it as full press snap. Think of snap focus as a really well implemented zone focus. You have it at a preset distance and aperture and with the GR III you know your shots will be in focus from 1 to 6 metres (say). Therefore you don't even have to think of focussing when out and about, unless your subject is closer or further than that. In that case, simply change the snap focus. Snap focus will always be faster than the fastest autofocus, but you need to learn to gauge distance with your eyes. With the GR IIIx I expect this to become much harder, but I'll try.

Does the monitor show the DOF depending on distance and aperture in Snap?

It does. It's really helpful.

I would probably be ok with just the three U1, U2, and U3 settings on the Mode Dial...but who knows! I will probably try some video but my Sony is much better at it, and oddly, probably my smart phone too, from what I'm hearing.

I basically only use those 3. As for video, I'd suggest you forget it exists. I've remapped my video button to the ND filter (which I rarely remember to use other than when I mount my 16 stop NDs and they are not enough for long exposures - Greece can be very bright.

If you have a 6 year old phone or newer, your video will be better.

I am not planning to use the video function at all. I even reprogrammed the video button on my Sony to Aspect Ratio I think. I can still shoot video since the top dial has a video notch and then I just start a video with the shutter release.

-- hide signature --

Cheers,
Vittorio
_________________________________________________
https://www.flickr.com/photos/155724624@N06/

 ViMa's gear list:ViMa's gear list
Ricoh GR III Ricoh GR IIIx
OP Starny Senior Member • Posts: 1,070
Re: What are your U1, U2, and U3 Settings on GR III(x)

ViMa wrote:

Starny wrote:

ViMa wrote:

Starny wrote:

ViMa wrote:

Starny wrote:

ViMa wrote:

I have My1 named Street but it is basically my go-to for daylight shooting outdoors. In the GR III it's set in Aperture priority at f8, ISO 1600 (I don't mind high ISO and would rather have a high shutter speed, especially when shooting monochrome which I generally do) and snap focus at 1.5 or 2 (my GR III is on its way to MPB as I await my GR IIIx so can't check). WB is at daylight and I have a monotone preset that is as flat as possible. I mostly use the histogram to deal with the exposure.

My2 is named Night and is my go-to indoors or night shooting. It is Aperture priority at f2.8, ISO 6400, flat monochrome, multi auto WB and single point AF with full press snap enabled. I've been using this most of the time as I'm more or less confined home with a baby.

My3 is named Travel and is my main mode when travelling but also in general when I'm doing "dedicated photography" where I can take some more time to compose etc. (Not street or portraits). It's set on manual at f8, ISO100 and SS100 with auto WB and a flat monochrome setting as above. It's single shot AF but I've set the FN button for switch to manual focus (My1 and My2 I have been trying crop mode for my FN button, tentatively).

I have another setting called IR saved, in which I have the WB and settings saved for when I used a 500smth IR filter I have for monochrome IR photography. I have used that maybe once so far.

There's a way to access the other 3 settings but you can only use 3 at a time. Basically you relegate 3 of your 6 saved settings to your 3 options.

Thank you for your excellent response ViMa.

So, in your My1 example, the only variable would be shutter speed and maybe EC via the control dial?

Yes, or in the unlikely case I wished to change the snap focus distance. Sometimes I'd also change ISO.

How do you go to and from Snap Focus to Auto Focus? "Fn" button? What is your opinion of Manual Focus? Must be somewhat difficult with the monitor only. Do you use the MF Auto Magnifier and does the Focus Bar on the left actually help?

If i'm shooting Snap Focus proper, then I just change focus from the quick option via the back wheel press (where y ou change exposure compensation). If I'm on full press snap, i'm already on AF. I do not use the magnifier. Even when I shot with the manual mitakon f0.95, I hated the magnifier.

I apologize in advance for asking questions without having the camera in my hands, but I am somewhat confused on what the back top wheel does.

That's okay.

It seems like most of the time it changes the shutter speed but if you press it the wheel changes to EC?

I think by default the back one always does exposure compensation, and if you press it rather than toggle it, it gives you up to 4 quick setting options. If in manual mode, it does shutter speed unless you swap them around.

I've never shot shutter priority but I think the shutter speed would be the front wheel there too.

I am really looking forward to having two dedicated and intuitive dials for shutter and aperture in M mode.

In M mode, you can choose whether the back one is Aperture or Shutter Speed.

Andnd from what I've read, when in M mode, the back lower control dial changes the EC.

It does. Unless you have manual ISO.

On a mostly sunny day your exposure would need to be changed for bright sunlight to sunny but under a cloud, so you just change up your shutter speed in this case?

Yes and no. Since it's aperture priority, I don't change anything - the camera does it for me. I'd only change exposure compensation if I'm not happy with the exposure.

So your U1 or U2, etc., is more or less a starting point for exposure, not really fixed?

It's fixed for U1 and U2 in that I could simply change to that and shoot and know I'll get a +/-0 Exposure with those settings, but I change the settings when needed. If it's really bright outside, for instance, I'll lower the ISO.

But if you're in U1, let's say, and you've programmed in f-stop 2.8, you can still change it on the fly, right?

Of course. An when you turn the camera on, it remembers the previous settings, even if they have been changed from the Mysetting.

All settings can be changed in U1 just not saved unless you want them saved?

I am still trying to wrap my head around the Snap Focus feature. I could possibly understand this at night because many have complained about its low-light focusing abilities, but why would you want this during the day? Just for some type of preset DOF?

I took a while before I realised how much greater this is than I initially thought. I used to only have it as full press snap. Think of snap focus as a really well implemented zone focus. You have it at a preset distance and aperture and with the GR III you know your shots will be in focus from 1 to 6 metres (say). Therefore you don't even have to think of focussing when out and about, unless your subject is closer or further than that. In that case, simply change the snap focus. Snap focus will always be faster than the fastest autofocus, but you need to learn to gauge distance with your eyes. With the GR IIIx I expect this to become much harder, but I'll try.

Does the monitor show the DOF depending on distance and aperture in Snap?

It does. It's really helpful.

I would probably be ok with just the three U1, U2, and U3 settings on the Mode Dial...but who knows! I will probably try some video but my Sony is much better at it, and oddly, probably my smart phone too, from what I'm hearing.

I basically only use those 3. As for video, I'd suggest you forget it exists. I've remapped my video button to the ND filter (which I rarely remember to use other than when I mount my 16 stop NDs and they are not enough for long exposures - Greece can be very bright.

If you have a 6 year old phone or newer, your video will be better.

I am not planning to use the video function at all. I even reprogrammed the video button on my Sony to Aspect Ratio I think. I can still shoot video since the top dial has a video notch and then I just start a video with the shutter release.

In your opinion, how intuitive is the GR III?  My Sony is not that intuitive and takes a while to set up, learn, and use properly, but most of the stuff is there, quite a camera really and the auto focus is insane!  However, there are many times when you're in whatever mode and try to change something only to get a message from Sony that "this setting cannot be changed in this mode".

 Starny's gear list:Starny's gear list
Ricoh GR III
ViMa
ViMa Senior Member • Posts: 1,847
Re: What are your U1, U2, and U3 Settings on GR III(x)

Starny wrote:

ViMa wrote:

Starny wrote:

ViMa wrote:

Starny wrote:

ViMa wrote:

Starny wrote:

ViMa wrote:

I have My1 named Street but it is basically my go-to for daylight shooting outdoors. In the GR III it's set in Aperture priority at f8, ISO 1600 (I don't mind high ISO and would rather have a high shutter speed, especially when shooting monochrome which I generally do) and snap focus at 1.5 or 2 (my GR III is on its way to MPB as I await my GR IIIx so can't check). WB is at daylight and I have a monotone preset that is as flat as possible. I mostly use the histogram to deal with the exposure.

My2 is named Night and is my go-to indoors or night shooting. It is Aperture priority at f2.8, ISO 6400, flat monochrome, multi auto WB and single point AF with full press snap enabled. I've been using this most of the time as I'm more or less confined home with a baby.

My3 is named Travel and is my main mode when travelling but also in general when I'm doing "dedicated photography" where I can take some more time to compose etc. (Not street or portraits). It's set on manual at f8, ISO100 and SS100 with auto WB and a flat monochrome setting as above. It's single shot AF but I've set the FN button for switch to manual focus (My1 and My2 I have been trying crop mode for my FN button, tentatively).

I have another setting called IR saved, in which I have the WB and settings saved for when I used a 500smth IR filter I have for monochrome IR photography. I have used that maybe once so far.

There's a way to access the other 3 settings but you can only use 3 at a time. Basically you relegate 3 of your 6 saved settings to your 3 options.

Thank you for your excellent response ViMa.

So, in your My1 example, the only variable would be shutter speed and maybe EC via the control dial?

Yes, or in the unlikely case I wished to change the snap focus distance. Sometimes I'd also change ISO.

How do you go to and from Snap Focus to Auto Focus? "Fn" button? What is your opinion of Manual Focus? Must be somewhat difficult with the monitor only. Do you use the MF Auto Magnifier and does the Focus Bar on the left actually help?

If i'm shooting Snap Focus proper, then I just change focus from the quick option via the back wheel press (where y ou change exposure compensation). If I'm on full press snap, i'm already on AF. I do not use the magnifier. Even when I shot with the manual mitakon f0.95, I hated the magnifier.

I apologize in advance for asking questions without having the camera in my hands, but I am somewhat confused on what the back top wheel does.

That's okay.

It seems like most of the time it changes the shutter speed but if you press it the wheel changes to EC?

I think by default the back one always does exposure compensation, and if you press it rather than toggle it, it gives you up to 4 quick setting options. If in manual mode, it does shutter speed unless you swap them around.

I've never shot shutter priority but I think the shutter speed would be the front wheel there too.

I am really looking forward to having two dedicated and intuitive dials for shutter and aperture in M mode.

In M mode, you can choose whether the back one is Aperture or Shutter Speed.

Andnd from what I've read, when in M mode, the back lower control dial changes the EC.

It does. Unless you have manual ISO.

On a mostly sunny day your exposure would need to be changed for bright sunlight to sunny but under a cloud, so you just change up your shutter speed in this case?

Yes and no. Since it's aperture priority, I don't change anything - the camera does it for me. I'd only change exposure compensation if I'm not happy with the exposure.

So your U1 or U2, etc., is more or less a starting point for exposure, not really fixed?

It's fixed for U1 and U2 in that I could simply change to that and shoot and know I'll get a +/-0 Exposure with those settings, but I change the settings when needed. If it's really bright outside, for instance, I'll lower the ISO.

But if you're in U1, let's say, and you've programmed in f-stop 2.8, you can still change it on the fly, right?

Of course. An when you turn the camera on, it remembers the previous settings, even if they have been changed from the Mysetting.

All settings can be changed in U1 just not saved unless you want them saved?

I am still trying to wrap my head around the Snap Focus feature. I could possibly understand this at night because many have complained about its low-light focusing abilities, but why would you want this during the day? Just for some type of preset DOF?

I took a while before I realised how much greater this is than I initially thought. I used to only have it as full press snap. Think of snap focus as a really well implemented zone focus. You have it at a preset distance and aperture and with the GR III you know your shots will be in focus from 1 to 6 metres (say). Therefore you don't even have to think of focussing when out and about, unless your subject is closer or further than that. In that case, simply change the snap focus. Snap focus will always be faster than the fastest autofocus, but you need to learn to gauge distance with your eyes. With the GR IIIx I expect this to become much harder, but I'll try.

Does the monitor show the DOF depending on distance and aperture in Snap?

It does. It's really helpful.

I would probably be ok with just the three U1, U2, and U3 settings on the Mode Dial...but who knows! I will probably try some video but my Sony is much better at it, and oddly, probably my smart phone too, from what I'm hearing.

I basically only use those 3. As for video, I'd suggest you forget it exists. I've remapped my video button to the ND filter (which I rarely remember to use other than when I mount my 16 stop NDs and they are not enough for long exposures - Greece can be very bright.

If you have a 6 year old phone or newer, your video will be better.

I am not planning to use the video function at all. I even reprogrammed the video button on my Sony to Aspect Ratio I think. I can still shoot video since the top dial has a video notch and then I just start a video with the shutter release.

In your opinion, how intuitive is the GR III? My Sony is not that intuitive and takes a while to set up, learn, and use properly, but most of the stuff is there, quite a camera really and the auto focus is insane! However, there are many times when you're in whatever mode and try to change something only to get a message from Sony that "this setting cannot be changed in this mode".

I bought mine while on vacation in Catalonia and used just fine from day one. I found it quite easy to use, though it becomes way more powerful once you really get used to it and set it up perfectly. I find that the Ricoh became an extension of my hand. I could get extremely specific in my settings while using only one hand and very quickly.

-- hide signature --

Cheers,
Vittorio
_________________________________________________
https://www.flickr.com/photos/155724624@N06/

 ViMa's gear list:ViMa's gear list
Ricoh GR III Ricoh GR IIIx
OP Starny Senior Member • Posts: 1,070
Re: What are your U1, U2, and U3 Settings on GR III(x)

ViMa wrote:

Starny wrote:

ViMa wrote:

Starny wrote:

ViMa wrote:

Starny wrote:

ViMa wrote:

Starny wrote:

ViMa wrote:

I have My1 named Street but it is basically my go-to for daylight shooting outdoors. In the GR III it's set in Aperture priority at f8, ISO 1600 (I don't mind high ISO and would rather have a high shutter speed, especially when shooting monochrome which I generally do) and snap focus at 1.5 or 2 (my GR III is on its way to MPB as I await my GR IIIx so can't check). WB is at daylight and I have a monotone preset that is as flat as possible. I mostly use the histogram to deal with the exposure.

My2 is named Night and is my go-to indoors or night shooting. It is Aperture priority at f2.8, ISO 6400, flat monochrome, multi auto WB and single point AF with full press snap enabled. I've been using this most of the time as I'm more or less confined home with a baby.

My3 is named Travel and is my main mode when travelling but also in general when I'm doing "dedicated photography" where I can take some more time to compose etc. (Not street or portraits). It's set on manual at f8, ISO100 and SS100 with auto WB and a flat monochrome setting as above. It's single shot AF but I've set the FN button for switch to manual focus (My1 and My2 I have been trying crop mode for my FN button, tentatively).

I have another setting called IR saved, in which I have the WB and settings saved for when I used a 500smth IR filter I have for monochrome IR photography. I have used that maybe once so far.

There's a way to access the other 3 settings but you can only use 3 at a time. Basically you relegate 3 of your 6 saved settings to your 3 options.

Thank you for your excellent response ViMa.

So, in your My1 example, the only variable would be shutter speed and maybe EC via the control dial?

Yes, or in the unlikely case I wished to change the snap focus distance. Sometimes I'd also change ISO.

How do you go to and from Snap Focus to Auto Focus? "Fn" button? What is your opinion of Manual Focus? Must be somewhat difficult with the monitor only. Do you use the MF Auto Magnifier and does the Focus Bar on the left actually help?

If i'm shooting Snap Focus proper, then I just change focus from the quick option via the back wheel press (where y ou change exposure compensation). If I'm on full press snap, i'm already on AF. I do not use the magnifier. Even when I shot with the manual mitakon f0.95, I hated the magnifier.

I apologize in advance for asking questions without having the camera in my hands, but I am somewhat confused on what the back top wheel does.

That's okay.

It seems like most of the time it changes the shutter speed but if you press it the wheel changes to EC?

I think by default the back one always does exposure compensation, and if you press it rather than toggle it, it gives you up to 4 quick setting options. If in manual mode, it does shutter speed unless you swap them around.

I've never shot shutter priority but I think the shutter speed would be the front wheel there too.

I am really looking forward to having two dedicated and intuitive dials for shutter and aperture in M mode.

In M mode, you can choose whether the back one is Aperture or Shutter Speed.

Andnd from what I've read, when in M mode, the back lower control dial changes the EC.

It does. Unless you have manual ISO.

On a mostly sunny day your exposure would need to be changed for bright sunlight to sunny but under a cloud, so you just change up your shutter speed in this case?

Yes and no. Since it's aperture priority, I don't change anything - the camera does it for me. I'd only change exposure compensation if I'm not happy with the exposure.

So your U1 or U2, etc., is more or less a starting point for exposure, not really fixed?

It's fixed for U1 and U2 in that I could simply change to that and shoot and know I'll get a +/-0 Exposure with those settings, but I change the settings when needed. If it's really bright outside, for instance, I'll lower the ISO.

But if you're in U1, let's say, and you've programmed in f-stop 2.8, you can still change it on the fly, right?

Of course. An when you turn the camera on, it remembers the previous settings, even if they have been changed from the Mysetting.

All settings can be changed in U1 just not saved unless you want them saved?

I am still trying to wrap my head around the Snap Focus feature. I could possibly understand this at night because many have complained about its low-light focusing abilities, but why would you want this during the day? Just for some type of preset DOF?

I took a while before I realised how much greater this is than I initially thought. I used to only have it as full press snap. Think of snap focus as a really well implemented zone focus. You have it at a preset distance and aperture and with the GR III you know your shots will be in focus from 1 to 6 metres (say). Therefore you don't even have to think of focussing when out and about, unless your subject is closer or further than that. In that case, simply change the snap focus. Snap focus will always be faster than the fastest autofocus, but you need to learn to gauge distance with your eyes. With the GR IIIx I expect this to become much harder, but I'll try.

Does the monitor show the DOF depending on distance and aperture in Snap?

It does. It's really helpful.

I would probably be ok with just the three U1, U2, and U3 settings on the Mode Dial...but who knows! I will probably try some video but my Sony is much better at it, and oddly, probably my smart phone too, from what I'm hearing.

I basically only use those 3. As for video, I'd suggest you forget it exists. I've remapped my video button to the ND filter (which I rarely remember to use other than when I mount my 16 stop NDs and they are not enough for long exposures - Greece can be very bright.

If you have a 6 year old phone or newer, your video will be better.

I am not planning to use the video function at all. I even reprogrammed the video button on my Sony to Aspect Ratio I think. I can still shoot video since the top dial has a video notch and then I just start a video with the shutter release.

In your opinion, how intuitive is the GR III? My Sony is not that intuitive and takes a while to set up, learn, and use properly, but most of the stuff is there, quite a camera really and the auto focus is insane! However, there are many times when you're in whatever mode and try to change something only to get a message from Sony that "this setting cannot be changed in this mode".

I bought mine while on vacation in Catalonia and used just fine from day one. I found it quite easy to use, though it becomes way more powerful once you really get used to it and set it up perfectly. I find that the Ricoh became an extension of my hand. I could get extremely specific in my settings while using only one hand and very quickly.

I am getting pretty excited to receive it should it ever be shipped.  The original auto reply was 3-5 days.  I haven't heard anything since.  I really hope I made the right decision by going with the III vs. the IIIx.  I'm not sure I even want to ask you which one you like more.

Assuming mine comes in good shape, I will most likely remove the yellow/orange contacts ring cover and put on the black.  However, with all the comments I've read, it sounds like I'll probably loose one or both.  Apparently the new ring has a click notch on it to help secure it to the ring mount.

 Starny's gear list:Starny's gear list
Ricoh GR III
ViMa
ViMa Senior Member • Posts: 1,847
Re: What are your U1, U2, and U3 Settings on GR III(x)

Starny wrote:

ViMa wrote:

Starny wrote:

ViMa wrote:

Starny wrote:

ViMa wrote:

Starny wrote:

ViMa wrote:

Starny wrote:

ViMa wrote:

I have My1 named Street but it is basically my go-to for daylight shooting outdoors. In the GR III it's set in Aperture priority at f8, ISO 1600 (I don't mind high ISO and would rather have a high shutter speed, especially when shooting monochrome which I generally do) and snap focus at 1.5 or 2 (my GR III is on its way to MPB as I await my GR IIIx so can't check). WB is at daylight and I have a monotone preset that is as flat as possible. I mostly use the histogram to deal with the exposure.

My2 is named Night and is my go-to indoors or night shooting. It is Aperture priority at f2.8, ISO 6400, flat monochrome, multi auto WB and single point AF with full press snap enabled. I've been using this most of the time as I'm more or less confined home with a baby.

My3 is named Travel and is my main mode when travelling but also in general when I'm doing "dedicated photography" where I can take some more time to compose etc. (Not street or portraits). It's set on manual at f8, ISO100 and SS100 with auto WB and a flat monochrome setting as above. It's single shot AF but I've set the FN button for switch to manual focus (My1 and My2 I have been trying crop mode for my FN button, tentatively).

I have another setting called IR saved, in which I have the WB and settings saved for when I used a 500smth IR filter I have for monochrome IR photography. I have used that maybe once so far.

There's a way to access the other 3 settings but you can only use 3 at a time. Basically you relegate 3 of your 6 saved settings to your 3 options.

Thank you for your excellent response ViMa.

So, in your My1 example, the only variable would be shutter speed and maybe EC via the control dial?

Yes, or in the unlikely case I wished to change the snap focus distance. Sometimes I'd also change ISO.

How do you go to and from Snap Focus to Auto Focus? "Fn" button? What is your opinion of Manual Focus? Must be somewhat difficult with the monitor only. Do you use the MF Auto Magnifier and does the Focus Bar on the left actually help?

If i'm shooting Snap Focus proper, then I just change focus from the quick option via the back wheel press (where y ou change exposure compensation). If I'm on full press snap, i'm already on AF. I do not use the magnifier. Even when I shot with the manual mitakon f0.95, I hated the magnifier.

I apologize in advance for asking questions without having the camera in my hands, but I am somewhat confused on what the back top wheel does.

That's okay.

It seems like most of the time it changes the shutter speed but if you press it the wheel changes to EC?

I think by default the back one always does exposure compensation, and if you press it rather than toggle it, it gives you up to 4 quick setting options. If in manual mode, it does shutter speed unless you swap them around.

I've never shot shutter priority but I think the shutter speed would be the front wheel there too.

I am really looking forward to having two dedicated and intuitive dials for shutter and aperture in M mode.

In M mode, you can choose whether the back one is Aperture or Shutter Speed.

Andnd from what I've read, when in M mode, the back lower control dial changes the EC.

It does. Unless you have manual ISO.

On a mostly sunny day your exposure would need to be changed for bright sunlight to sunny but under a cloud, so you just change up your shutter speed in this case?

Yes and no. Since it's aperture priority, I don't change anything - the camera does it for me. I'd only change exposure compensation if I'm not happy with the exposure.

So your U1 or U2, etc., is more or less a starting point for exposure, not really fixed?

It's fixed for U1 and U2 in that I could simply change to that and shoot and know I'll get a +/-0 Exposure with those settings, but I change the settings when needed. If it's really bright outside, for instance, I'll lower the ISO.

But if you're in U1, let's say, and you've programmed in f-stop 2.8, you can still change it on the fly, right?

Of course. An when you turn the camera on, it remembers the previous settings, even if they have been changed from the Mysetting.

All settings can be changed in U1 just not saved unless you want them saved?

I am still trying to wrap my head around the Snap Focus feature. I could possibly understand this at night because many have complained about its low-light focusing abilities, but why would you want this during the day? Just for some type of preset DOF?

I took a while before I realised how much greater this is than I initially thought. I used to only have it as full press snap. Think of snap focus as a really well implemented zone focus. You have it at a preset distance and aperture and with the GR III you know your shots will be in focus from 1 to 6 metres (say). Therefore you don't even have to think of focussing when out and about, unless your subject is closer or further than that. In that case, simply change the snap focus. Snap focus will always be faster than the fastest autofocus, but you need to learn to gauge distance with your eyes. With the GR IIIx I expect this to become much harder, but I'll try.

Does the monitor show the DOF depending on distance and aperture in Snap?

It does. It's really helpful.

I would probably be ok with just the three U1, U2, and U3 settings on the Mode Dial...but who knows! I will probably try some video but my Sony is much better at it, and oddly, probably my smart phone too, from what I'm hearing.

I basically only use those 3. As for video, I'd suggest you forget it exists. I've remapped my video button to the ND filter (which I rarely remember to use other than when I mount my 16 stop NDs and they are not enough for long exposures - Greece can be very bright.

If you have a 6 year old phone or newer, your video will be better.

I am not planning to use the video function at all. I even reprogrammed the video button on my Sony to Aspect Ratio I think. I can still shoot video since the top dial has a video notch and then I just start a video with the shutter release.

In your opinion, how intuitive is the GR III? My Sony is not that intuitive and takes a while to set up, learn, and use properly, but most of the stuff is there, quite a camera really and the auto focus is insane! However, there are many times when you're in whatever mode and try to change something only to get a message from Sony that "this setting cannot be changed in this mode".

I bought mine while on vacation in Catalonia and used just fine from day one. I found it quite easy to use, though it becomes way more powerful once you really get used to it and set it up perfectly. I find that the Ricoh became an extension of my hand. I could get extremely specific in my settings while using only one hand and very quickly.

I am getting pretty excited to receive it should it ever be shipped. The original auto reply was 3-5 days. I haven't heard anything since.

I hope you get it soon. My IIIx arrived a few hours ago - delayed by about 2 weeks.

I really hope I made the right decision by going with the III vs. the IIIx. I'm not sure I even want to ask you which one you like more.

They're exactly the same camera. Never has a first day with a nee camera felt so uneventful. But I say this positively. It feels like I simply swapped lenses. I'm in the camp 40mm but I mostly shoot my baby daughter these days - indoors - so appreciate the more flattering 40mm.

Assuming mine comes in good shape, I will most likely remove the yellow/orange contacts ring cover and put on the black.

I bought a third party green one and miss it already. I've also gotten the IIIx bronze but it hasn't arrived. I find these give it character and if nothing else make it look even less professional to the people outside, which helps make me less conspicuous.

However, with all the comments I've read, it sounds like I'll probably loose one or both.

I never had such trouble with either black or green rings. They've never fallen or shown any proclivity to doing so.

Apparentlyly the new ring has a click notch on it to help secure it to the ring mount.

-- hide signature --

Cheers,
Vittorio
_________________________________________________
https://www.flickr.com/photos/155724624@N06/

 ViMa's gear list:ViMa's gear list
Ricoh GR III Ricoh GR IIIx
OP Starny Senior Member • Posts: 1,070
Re: What are your U1, U2, and U3 Settings on GR III(x)

ViMa wrote:

Starny wrote:

ViMa wrote:

Starny wrote:

ViMa wrote:

Starny wrote:

ViMa wrote:

Starny wrote:

ViMa wrote:

Starny wrote:

ViMa wrote:

I have My1 named Street but it is basically my go-to for daylight shooting outdoors. In the GR III it's set in Aperture priority at f8, ISO 1600 (I don't mind high ISO and would rather have a high shutter speed, especially when shooting monochrome which I generally do) and snap focus at 1.5 or 2 (my GR III is on its way to MPB as I await my GR IIIx so can't check). WB is at daylight and I have a monotone preset that is as flat as possible. I mostly use the histogram to deal with the exposure.

My2 is named Night and is my go-to indoors or night shooting. It is Aperture priority at f2.8, ISO 6400, flat monochrome, multi auto WB and single point AF with full press snap enabled. I've been using this most of the time as I'm more or less confined home with a baby.

My3 is named Travel and is my main mode when travelling but also in general when I'm doing "dedicated photography" where I can take some more time to compose etc. (Not street or portraits). It's set on manual at f8, ISO100 and SS100 with auto WB and a flat monochrome setting as above. It's single shot AF but I've set the FN button for switch to manual focus (My1 and My2 I have been trying crop mode for my FN button, tentatively).

I have another setting called IR saved, in which I have the WB and settings saved for when I used a 500smth IR filter I have for monochrome IR photography. I have used that maybe once so far.

There's a way to access the other 3 settings but you can only use 3 at a time. Basically you relegate 3 of your 6 saved settings to your 3 options.

Thank you for your excellent response ViMa.

So, in your My1 example, the only variable would be shutter speed and maybe EC via the control dial?

Yes, or in the unlikely case I wished to change the snap focus distance. Sometimes I'd also change ISO.

How do you go to and from Snap Focus to Auto Focus? "Fn" button? What is your opinion of Manual Focus? Must be somewhat difficult with the monitor only. Do you use the MF Auto Magnifier and does the Focus Bar on the left actually help?

If i'm shooting Snap Focus proper, then I just change focus from the quick option via the back wheel press (where y ou change exposure compensation). If I'm on full press snap, i'm already on AF. I do not use the magnifier. Even when I shot with the manual mitakon f0.95, I hated the magnifier.

I apologize in advance for asking questions without having the camera in my hands, but I am somewhat confused on what the back top wheel does.

That's okay.

It seems like most of the time it changes the shutter speed but if you press it the wheel changes to EC?

I think by default the back one always does exposure compensation, and if you press it rather than toggle it, it gives you up to 4 quick setting options. If in manual mode, it does shutter speed unless you swap them around.

I've never shot shutter priority but I think the shutter speed would be the front wheel there too.

I am really looking forward to having two dedicated and intuitive dials for shutter and aperture in M mode.

In M mode, you can choose whether the back one is Aperture or Shutter Speed.

Andnd from what I've read, when in M mode, the back lower control dial changes the EC.

It does. Unless you have manual ISO.

On a mostly sunny day your exposure would need to be changed for bright sunlight to sunny but under a cloud, so you just change up your shutter speed in this case?

Yes and no. Since it's aperture priority, I don't change anything - the camera does it for me. I'd only change exposure compensation if I'm not happy with the exposure.

So your U1 or U2, etc., is more or less a starting point for exposure, not really fixed?

It's fixed for U1 and U2 in that I could simply change to that and shoot and know I'll get a +/-0 Exposure with those settings, but I change the settings when needed. If it's really bright outside, for instance, I'll lower the ISO.

But if you're in U1, let's say, and you've programmed in f-stop 2.8, you can still change it on the fly, right?

Of course. An when you turn the camera on, it remembers the previous settings, even if they have been changed from the Mysetting.

All settings can be changed in U1 just not saved unless you want them saved?

I am still trying to wrap my head around the Snap Focus feature. I could possibly understand this at night because many have complained about its low-light focusing abilities, but why would you want this during the day? Just for some type of preset DOF?

I took a while before I realised how much greater this is than I initially thought. I used to only have it as full press snap. Think of snap focus as a really well implemented zone focus. You have it at a preset distance and aperture and with the GR III you know your shots will be in focus from 1 to 6 metres (say). Therefore you don't even have to think of focussing when out and about, unless your subject is closer or further than that. In that case, simply change the snap focus. Snap focus will always be faster than the fastest autofocus, but you need to learn to gauge distance with your eyes. With the GR IIIx I expect this to become much harder, but I'll try.

Does the monitor show the DOF depending on distance and aperture in Snap?

It does. It's really helpful.

I would probably be ok with just the three U1, U2, and U3 settings on the Mode Dial...but who knows! I will probably try some video but my Sony is much better at it, and oddly, probably my smart phone too, from what I'm hearing.

I basically only use those 3. As for video, I'd suggest you forget it exists. I've remapped my video button to the ND filter (which I rarely remember to use other than when I mount my 16 stop NDs and they are not enough for long exposures - Greece can be very bright.

If you have a 6 year old phone or newer, your video will be better.

I am not planning to use the video function at all. I even reprogrammed the video button on my Sony to Aspect Ratio I think. I can still shoot video since the top dial has a video notch and then I just start a video with the shutter release.

In your opinion, how intuitive is the GR III? My Sony is not that intuitive and takes a while to set up, learn, and use properly, but most of the stuff is there, quite a camera really and the auto focus is insane! However, there are many times when you're in whatever mode and try to change something only to get a message from Sony that "this setting cannot be changed in this mode".

I bought mine while on vacation in Catalonia and used just fine from day one. I found it quite easy to use, though it becomes way more powerful once you really get used to it and set it up perfectly. I find that the Ricoh became an extension of my hand. I could get extremely specific in my settings while using only one hand and very quickly.

I am getting pretty excited to receive it should it ever be shipped. The original auto reply was 3-5 days. I haven't heard anything since.

I hope you get it soon. My IIIx arrived a few hours ago - delayed by about 2 weeks.

Congrats!  Sorry, I'm getting confused bc any number of members here are starting to see highly anticipated boxes on their front entry ways.  Keep us informed on your thoughts vs the III.

I really hope I made the right decision by going with the III vs. the IIIx. I'm not sure I even want to ask you which one you like more.

They're exactly the same camera. Never has a first day with a nee camera felt so uneventful. But I say this positively. It feels like I simply swapped lenses. I'm in the camp 40mm but I mostly shoot my baby daughter these days - indoors - so appreciate the more flattering 40mm.

Assuming mine comes in good shape, I will most likely remove the yellow/orange contacts ring cover and put on the black.

I bought a third party green one and miss it already. I've also gotten the IIIx bronze but it hasn't arrived. I find these give it character and if nothing else make it look even less professional to the people outside, which helps make me less conspicuous.

However, with all the comments I've read, it sounds like I'll probably loose one or both.

I never had such trouble with either black or green rings. They've never fallen or shown any proclivity to doing so.

I'm not hard on my stuff so I hope that keeping track of the ring is not going to be an issue.  But it must be enough of a prob that the new one has a click.

Apparentlyly the new ring has a click notch on it to help secure it to the ring mount.

 Starny's gear list:Starny's gear list
Ricoh GR III
ViMa
ViMa Senior Member • Posts: 1,847
Re: What are your U1, U2, and U3 Settings on GR III(x)

Starny wrote:

ViMa wrote:

Starny wrote:

ViMa wrote:

Starny wrote:

ViMa wrote:

Starny wrote:

ViMa wrote:

Starny wrote:

ViMa wrote:

Starny wrote:

ViMa wrote:

I have My1 named Street but it is basically my go-to for daylight shooting outdoors. In the GR III it's set in Aperture priority at f8, ISO 1600 (I don't mind high ISO and would rather have a high shutter speed, especially when shooting monochrome which I generally do) and snap focus at 1.5 or 2 (my GR III is on its way to MPB as I await my GR IIIx so can't check). WB is at daylight and I have a monotone preset that is as flat as possible. I mostly use the histogram to deal with the exposure.

My2 is named Night and is my go-to indoors or night shooting. It is Aperture priority at f2.8, ISO 6400, flat monochrome, multi auto WB and single point AF with full press snap enabled. I've been using this most of the time as I'm more or less confined home with a baby.

My3 is named Travel and is my main mode when travelling but also in general when I'm doing "dedicated photography" where I can take some more time to compose etc. (Not street or portraits). It's set on manual at f8, ISO100 and SS100 with auto WB and a flat monochrome setting as above. It's single shot AF but I've set the FN button for switch to manual focus (My1 and My2 I have been trying crop mode for my FN button, tentatively).

I have another setting called IR saved, in which I have the WB and settings saved for when I used a 500smth IR filter I have for monochrome IR photography. I have used that maybe once so far.

There's a way to access the other 3 settings but you can only use 3 at a time. Basically you relegate 3 of your 6 saved settings to your 3 options.

Thank you for your excellent response ViMa.

So, in your My1 example, the only variable would be shutter speed and maybe EC via the control dial?

Yes, or in the unlikely case I wished to change the snap focus distance. Sometimes I'd also change ISO.

How do you go to and from Snap Focus to Auto Focus? "Fn" button? What is your opinion of Manual Focus? Must be somewhat difficult with the monitor only. Do you use the MF Auto Magnifier and does the Focus Bar on the left actually help?

If i'm shooting Snap Focus proper, then I just change focus from the quick option via the back wheel press (where y ou change exposure compensation). If I'm on full press snap, i'm already on AF. I do not use the magnifier. Even when I shot with the manual mitakon f0.95, I hated the magnifier.

I apologize in advance for asking questions without having the camera in my hands, but I am somewhat confused on what the back top wheel does.

That's okay.

It seems like most of the time it changes the shutter speed but if you press it the wheel changes to EC?

I think by default the back one always does exposure compensation, and if you press it rather than toggle it, it gives you up to 4 quick setting options. If in manual mode, it does shutter speed unless you swap them around.

I've never shot shutter priority but I think the shutter speed would be the front wheel there too.

I am really looking forward to having two dedicated and intuitive dials for shutter and aperture in M mode.

In M mode, you can choose whether the back one is Aperture or Shutter Speed.

Andnd from what I've read, when in M mode, the back lower control dial changes the EC.

It does. Unless you have manual ISO.

On a mostly sunny day your exposure would need to be changed for bright sunlight to sunny but under a cloud, so you just change up your shutter speed in this case?

Yes and no. Since it's aperture priority, I don't change anything - the camera does it for me. I'd only change exposure compensation if I'm not happy with the exposure.

So your U1 or U2, etc., is more or less a starting point for exposure, not really fixed?

It's fixed for U1 and U2 in that I could simply change to that and shoot and know I'll get a +/-0 Exposure with those settings, but I change the settings when needed. If it's really bright outside, for instance, I'll lower the ISO.

But if you're in U1, let's say, and you've programmed in f-stop 2.8, you can still change it on the fly, right?

Of course. An when you turn the camera on, it remembers the previous settings, even if they have been changed from the Mysetting.

All settings can be changed in U1 just not saved unless you want them saved?

I am still trying to wrap my head around the Snap Focus feature. I could possibly understand this at night because many have complained about its low-light focusing abilities, but why would you want this during the day? Just for some type of preset DOF?

I took a while before I realised how much greater this is than I initially thought. I used to only have it as full press snap. Think of snap focus as a really well implemented zone focus. You have it at a preset distance and aperture and with the GR III you know your shots will be in focus from 1 to 6 metres (say). Therefore you don't even have to think of focussing when out and about, unless your subject is closer or further than that. In that case, simply change the snap focus. Snap focus will always be faster than the fastest autofocus, but you need to learn to gauge distance with your eyes. With the GR IIIx I expect this to become much harder, but I'll try.

Does the monitor show the DOF depending on distance and aperture in Snap?

It does. It's really helpful.

I would probably be ok with just the three U1, U2, and U3 settings on the Mode Dial...but who knows! I will probably try some video but my Sony is much better at it, and oddly, probably my smart phone too, from what I'm hearing.

I basically only use those 3. As for video, I'd suggest you forget it exists. I've remapped my video button to the ND filter (which I rarely remember to use other than when I mount my 16 stop NDs and they are not enough for long exposures - Greece can be very bright.

If you have a 6 year old phone or newer, your video will be better.

I am not planning to use the video function at all. I even reprogrammed the video button on my Sony to Aspect Ratio I think. I can still shoot video since the top dial has a video notch and then I just start a video with the shutter release.

In your opinion, how intuitive is the GR III? My Sony is not that intuitive and takes a while to set up, learn, and use properly, but most of the stuff is there, quite a camera really and the auto focus is insane! However, there are many times when you're in whatever mode and try to change something only to get a message from Sony that "this setting cannot be changed in this mode".

I bought mine while on vacation in Catalonia and used just fine from day one. I found it quite easy to use, though it becomes way more powerful once you really get used to it and set it up perfectly. I find that the Ricoh became an extension of my hand. I could get extremely specific in my settings while using only one hand and very quickly.

I am getting pretty excited to receive it should it ever be shipped. The original auto reply was 3-5 days. I haven't heard anything since.

I hope you get it soon. My IIIx arrived a few hours ago - delayed by about 2 weeks.

Congrats! Sorry, I'm getting confused bc any number of members here are starting to see highly anticipated boxes on their front entry ways. Keep us informed on your thoughts vs the III.

I really hope I made the right decision by going with the III vs. the IIIx. I'm not sure I even want to ask you which one you like more.

They're exactly the same camera. Never has a first day with a nee camera felt so uneventful. But I say this positively. It feels like I simply swapped lenses. I'm in the camp 40mm but I mostly shoot my baby daughter these days - indoors - so appreciate the more flattering 40mm.

Assuming mine comes in good shape, I will most likely remove the yellow/orange contacts ring cover and put on the black.

I bought a third party green one and miss it already. I've also gotten the IIIx bronze but it hasn't arrived. I find these give it character and if nothing else make it look even less professional to the people outside, which helps make me less conspicuous.

However, with all the comments I've read, it sounds like I'll probably loose one or both.

I never had such trouble with either black or green rings. They've never fallen or shown any proclivity to doing so.

I'm not hard on my stuff so I hope that keeping track of the ring is not going to be an issue. But it must be enough of a prob that the new one has a click.

Not sure I understand what this click is. My GR IIIx ring looks exactly the same as the GR III one (only thicker).

Apparentlyly the new ring has a click notch on it to help secure it to the ring mount.

-- hide signature --

Cheers,
Vittorio
_________________________________________________
https://www.flickr.com/photos/155724624@N06/

 ViMa's gear list:ViMa's gear list
Ricoh GR III Ricoh GR IIIx
OP Starny Senior Member • Posts: 1,070
Re: What are your U1, U2, and U3 Settings on GR III(x)

ViMa wrote:

Starny wrote:

ViMa wrote:

Starny wrote:

ViMa wrote:

Starny wrote:

ViMa wrote:

Starny wrote:

ViMa wrote:

Starny wrote:

ViMa wrote:

Starny wrote:

ViMa wrote:

I have My1 named Street but it is basically my go-to for daylight shooting outdoors. In the GR III it's set in Aperture priority at f8, ISO 1600 (I don't mind high ISO and would rather have a high shutter speed, especially when shooting monochrome which I generally do) and snap focus at 1.5 or 2 (my GR III is on its way to MPB as I await my GR IIIx so can't check). WB is at daylight and I have a monotone preset that is as flat as possible. I mostly use the histogram to deal with the exposure.

My2 is named Night and is my go-to indoors or night shooting. It is Aperture priority at f2.8, ISO 6400, flat monochrome, multi auto WB and single point AF with full press snap enabled. I've been using this most of the time as I'm more or less confined home with a baby.

My3 is named Travel and is my main mode when travelling but also in general when I'm doing "dedicated photography" where I can take some more time to compose etc. (Not street or portraits). It's set on manual at f8, ISO100 and SS100 with auto WB and a flat monochrome setting as above. It's single shot AF but I've set the FN button for switch to manual focus (My1 and My2 I have been trying crop mode for my FN button, tentatively).

I have another setting called IR saved, in which I have the WB and settings saved for when I used a 500smth IR filter I have for monochrome IR photography. I have used that maybe once so far.

There's a way to access the other 3 settings but you can only use 3 at a time. Basically you relegate 3 of your 6 saved settings to your 3 options.

Thank you for your excellent response ViMa.

So, in your My1 example, the only variable would be shutter speed and maybe EC via the control dial?

Yes, or in the unlikely case I wished to change the snap focus distance. Sometimes I'd also change ISO.

How do you go to and from Snap Focus to Auto Focus? "Fn" button? What is your opinion of Manual Focus? Must be somewhat difficult with the monitor only. Do you use the MF Auto Magnifier and does the Focus Bar on the left actually help?

If i'm shooting Snap Focus proper, then I just change focus from the quick option via the back wheel press (where y ou change exposure compensation). If I'm on full press snap, i'm already on AF. I do not use the magnifier. Even when I shot with the manual mitakon f0.95, I hated the magnifier.

I apologize in advance for asking questions without having the camera in my hands, but I am somewhat confused on what the back top wheel does.

That's okay.

It seems like most of the time it changes the shutter speed but if you press it the wheel changes to EC?

I think by default the back one always does exposure compensation, and if you press it rather than toggle it, it gives you up to 4 quick setting options. If in manual mode, it does shutter speed unless you swap them around.

I've never shot shutter priority but I think the shutter speed would be the front wheel there too.

I am really looking forward to having two dedicated and intuitive dials for shutter and aperture in M mode.

In M mode, you can choose whether the back one is Aperture or Shutter Speed.

Andnd from what I've read, when in M mode, the back lower control dial changes the EC.

It does. Unless you have manual ISO.

On a mostly sunny day your exposure would need to be changed for bright sunlight to sunny but under a cloud, so you just change up your shutter speed in this case?

Yes and no. Since it's aperture priority, I don't change anything - the camera does it for me. I'd only change exposure compensation if I'm not happy with the exposure.

So your U1 or U2, etc., is more or less a starting point for exposure, not really fixed?

It's fixed for U1 and U2 in that I could simply change to that and shoot and know I'll get a +/-0 Exposure with those settings, but I change the settings when needed. If it's really bright outside, for instance, I'll lower the ISO.

But if you're in U1, let's say, and you've programmed in f-stop 2.8, you can still change it on the fly, right?

Of course. An when you turn the camera on, it remembers the previous settings, even if they have been changed from the Mysetting.

All settings can be changed in U1 just not saved unless you want them saved?

I am still trying to wrap my head around the Snap Focus feature. I could possibly understand this at night because many have complained about its low-light focusing abilities, but why would you want this during the day? Just for some type of preset DOF?

I took a while before I realised how much greater this is than I initially thought. I used to only have it as full press snap. Think of snap focus as a really well implemented zone focus. You have it at a preset distance and aperture and with the GR III you know your shots will be in focus from 1 to 6 metres (say). Therefore you don't even have to think of focussing when out and about, unless your subject is closer or further than that. In that case, simply change the snap focus. Snap focus will always be faster than the fastest autofocus, but you need to learn to gauge distance with your eyes. With the GR IIIx I expect this to become much harder, but I'll try.

Does the monitor show the DOF depending on distance and aperture in Snap?

It does. It's really helpful.

I would probably be ok with just the three U1, U2, and U3 settings on the Mode Dial...but who knows! I will probably try some video but my Sony is much better at it, and oddly, probably my smart phone too, from what I'm hearing.

I basically only use those 3. As for video, I'd suggest you forget it exists. I've remapped my video button to the ND filter (which I rarely remember to use other than when I mount my 16 stop NDs and they are not enough for long exposures - Greece can be very bright.

If you have a 6 year old phone or newer, your video will be better.

I am not planning to use the video function at all. I even reprogrammed the video button on my Sony to Aspect Ratio I think. I can still shoot video since the top dial has a video notch and then I just start a video with the shutter release.

In your opinion, how intuitive is the GR III? My Sony is not that intuitive and takes a while to set up, learn, and use properly, but most of the stuff is there, quite a camera really and the auto focus is insane! However, there are many times when you're in whatever mode and try to change something only to get a message from Sony that "this setting cannot be changed in this mode".

I bought mine while on vacation in Catalonia and used just fine from day one. I found it quite easy to use, though it becomes way more powerful once you really get used to it and set it up perfectly. I find that the Ricoh became an extension of my hand. I could get extremely specific in my settings while using only one hand and very quickly.

I am getting pretty excited to receive it should it ever be shipped. The original auto reply was 3-5 days. I haven't heard anything since.

I hope you get it soon. My IIIx arrived a few hours ago - delayed by about 2 weeks.

Congrats! Sorry, I'm getting confused bc any number of members here are starting to see highly anticipated boxes on their front entry ways. Keep us informed on your thoughts vs the III.

I really hope I made the right decision by going with the III vs. the IIIx. I'm not sure I even want to ask you which one you like more.

They're exactly the same camera. Never has a first day with a nee camera felt so uneventful. But I say this positively. It feels like I simply swapped lenses. I'm in the camp 40mm but I mostly shoot my baby daughter these days - indoors - so appreciate the more flattering 40mm.

Assuming mine comes in good shape, I will most likely remove the yellow/orange contacts ring cover and put on the black.

I bought a third party green one and miss it already. I've also gotten the IIIx bronze but it hasn't arrived. I find these give it character and if nothing else make it look even less professional to the people outside, which helps make me less conspicuous.

However, with all the comments I've read, it sounds like I'll probably loose one or both.

I never had such trouble with either black or green rings. They've never fallen or shown any proclivity to doing so.

I'm not hard on my stuff so I hope that keeping track of the ring is not going to be an issue. But it must be enough of a prob that the new one has a click.

Not sure I understand what this click is. My GR IIIx ring looks exactly the same as the GR III one (only thicker).

Apparentlyly the new ring has a click notch on it to help secure it to the ring mount.

The one video I saw shows two guys, one with a III and one with a IIIx.  The first guy was complaining about the loose ring on the III.  The guy with the IIIx said that as the ring is screwed on and just as it tightens all the way there is a click (detent), which helps secure the ring.

 Starny's gear list:Starny's gear list
Ricoh GR III
ViMa
ViMa Senior Member • Posts: 1,847
Re: What are your U1, U2, and U3 Settings on GR III(x)

Starny wrote:

ViMa wrote:

Starny wrote:

ViMa wrote:

Starny wrote:

ViMa wrote:

Starny wrote:

ViMa wrote:

Starny wrote:

ViMa wrote:

Starny wrote:

ViMa wrote:

Starny wrote:

ViMa wrote:

I have My1 named Street but it is basically my go-to for daylight shooting outdoors. In the GR III it's set in Aperture priority at f8, ISO 1600 (I don't mind high ISO and would rather have a high shutter speed, especially when shooting monochrome which I generally do) and snap focus at 1.5 or 2 (my GR III is on its way to MPB as I await my GR IIIx so can't check). WB is at daylight and I have a monotone preset that is as flat as possible. I mostly use the histogram to deal with the exposure.

My2 is named Night and is my go-to indoors or night shooting. It is Aperture priority at f2.8, ISO 6400, flat monochrome, multi auto WB and single point AF with full press snap enabled. I've been using this most of the time as I'm more or less confined home with a baby.

My3 is named Travel and is my main mode when travelling but also in general when I'm doing "dedicated photography" where I can take some more time to compose etc. (Not street or portraits). It's set on manual at f8, ISO100 and SS100 with auto WB and a flat monochrome setting as above. It's single shot AF but I've set the FN button for switch to manual focus (My1 and My2 I have been trying crop mode for my FN button, tentatively).

I have another setting called IR saved, in which I have the WB and settings saved for when I used a 500smth IR filter I have for monochrome IR photography. I have used that maybe once so far.

There's a way to access the other 3 settings but you can only use 3 at a time. Basically you relegate 3 of your 6 saved settings to your 3 options.

Thank you for your excellent response ViMa.

So, in your My1 example, the only variable would be shutter speed and maybe EC via the control dial?

Yes, or in the unlikely case I wished to change the snap focus distance. Sometimes I'd also change ISO.

How do you go to and from Snap Focus to Auto Focus? "Fn" button? What is your opinion of Manual Focus? Must be somewhat difficult with the monitor only. Do you use the MF Auto Magnifier and does the Focus Bar on the left actually help?

If i'm shooting Snap Focus proper, then I just change focus from the quick option via the back wheel press (where y ou change exposure compensation). If I'm on full press snap, i'm already on AF. I do not use the magnifier. Even when I shot with the manual mitakon f0.95, I hated the magnifier.

I apologize in advance for asking questions without having the camera in my hands, but I am somewhat confused on what the back top wheel does.

That's okay.

It seems like most of the time it changes the shutter speed but if you press it the wheel changes to EC?

I think by default the back one always does exposure compensation, and if you press it rather than toggle it, it gives you up to 4 quick setting options. If in manual mode, it does shutter speed unless you swap them around.

I've never shot shutter priority but I think the shutter speed would be the front wheel there too.

I am really looking forward to having two dedicated and intuitive dials for shutter and aperture in M mode.

In M mode, you can choose whether the back one is Aperture or Shutter Speed.

Andnd from what I've read, when in M mode, the back lower control dial changes the EC.

It does. Unless you have manual ISO.

On a mostly sunny day your exposure would need to be changed for bright sunlight to sunny but under a cloud, so you just change up your shutter speed in this case?

Yes and no. Since it's aperture priority, I don't change anything - the camera does it for me. I'd only change exposure compensation if I'm not happy with the exposure.

So your U1 or U2, etc., is more or less a starting point for exposure, not really fixed?

It's fixed for U1 and U2 in that I could simply change to that and shoot and know I'll get a +/-0 Exposure with those settings, but I change the settings when needed. If it's really bright outside, for instance, I'll lower the ISO.

But if you're in U1, let's say, and you've programmed in f-stop 2.8, you can still change it on the fly, right?

Of course. An when you turn the camera on, it remembers the previous settings, even if they have been changed from the Mysetting.

All settings can be changed in U1 just not saved unless you want them saved?

I am still trying to wrap my head around the Snap Focus feature. I could possibly understand this at night because many have complained about its low-light focusing abilities, but why would you want this during the day? Just for some type of preset DOF?

I took a while before I realised how much greater this is than I initially thought. I used to only have it as full press snap. Think of snap focus as a really well implemented zone focus. You have it at a preset distance and aperture and with the GR III you know your shots will be in focus from 1 to 6 metres (say). Therefore you don't even have to think of focussing when out and about, unless your subject is closer or further than that. In that case, simply change the snap focus. Snap focus will always be faster than the fastest autofocus, but you need to learn to gauge distance with your eyes. With the GR IIIx I expect this to become much harder, but I'll try.

Does the monitor show the DOF depending on distance and aperture in Snap?

It does. It's really helpful.

I would probably be ok with just the three U1, U2, and U3 settings on the Mode Dial...but who knows! I will probably try some video but my Sony is much better at it, and oddly, probably my smart phone too, from what I'm hearing.

I basically only use those 3. As for video, I'd suggest you forget it exists. I've remapped my video button to the ND filter (which I rarely remember to use other than when I mount my 16 stop NDs and they are not enough for long exposures - Greece can be very bright.

If you have a 6 year old phone or newer, your video will be better.

I am not planning to use the video function at all. I even reprogrammed the video button on my Sony to Aspect Ratio I think. I can still shoot video since the top dial has a video notch and then I just start a video with the shutter release.

In your opinion, how intuitive is the GR III? My Sony is not that intuitive and takes a while to set up, learn, and use properly, but most of the stuff is there, quite a camera really and the auto focus is insane! However, there are many times when you're in whatever mode and try to change something only to get a message from Sony that "this setting cannot be changed in this mode".

I bought mine while on vacation in Catalonia and used just fine from day one. I found it quite easy to use, though it becomes way more powerful once you really get used to it and set it up perfectly. I find that the Ricoh became an extension of my hand. I could get extremely specific in my settings while using only one hand and very quickly.

I am getting pretty excited to receive it should it ever be shipped. The original auto reply was 3-5 days. I haven't heard anything since.

I hope you get it soon. My IIIx arrived a few hours ago - delayed by about 2 weeks.

Congrats! Sorry, I'm getting confused bc any number of members here are starting to see highly anticipated boxes on their front entry ways. Keep us informed on your thoughts vs the III.

I really hope I made the right decision by going with the III vs. the IIIx. I'm not sure I even want to ask you which one you like more.

They're exactly the same camera. Never has a first day with a nee camera felt so uneventful. But I say this positively. It feels like I simply swapped lenses. I'm in the camp 40mm but I mostly shoot my baby daughter these days - indoors - so appreciate the more flattering 40mm.

Assuming mine comes in good shape, I will most likely remove the yellow/orange contacts ring cover and put on the black.

I bought a third party green one and miss it already. I've also gotten the IIIx bronze but it hasn't arrived. I find these give it character and if nothing else make it look even less professional to the people outside, which helps make me less conspicuous.

However, with all the comments I've read, it sounds like I'll probably loose one or both.

I never had such trouble with either black or green rings. They've never fallen or shown any proclivity to doing so.

I'm not hard on my stuff so I hope that keeping track of the ring is not going to be an issue. But it must be enough of a prob that the new one has a click.

Not sure I understand what this click is. My GR IIIx ring looks exactly the same as the GR III one (only thicker).

Apparentlyly the new ring has a click notch on it to help secure it to the ring mount.

The one video I saw shows two guys, one with a III and one with a IIIx. The first guy was complaining about the loose ring on the III. The guy with the IIIx said that as the ring is screwed on and just as it tightens all the way there is a click (detent), which helps secure the ring.

That'd be Kai Wong. There have been some complaints about the GR III ring. I've not had a problem irl. But in terms of clicks etc., What Lok said in that video makes no sense. They might have tightened the ring in the IIIx but it locks in exactly the same way. Nothing has changed.

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Cheers,
Vittorio
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