Protective UV Filters ... quality vs safety?

This is a classic example of what sort of issue you can see with a filter. In this case a Hoya UV filter on a 35F2 on a D300.

b41e2fd59ef745ce82c2e95f9a9471f2.jpg

Taking off the filter resulted in no reflections.

It was at this point (in 2008) that I abandoned 'protective' filters.

--
Phoenix Arizona Craig
www.cjcphoto.net
"I miss the days when I was nostalgic."
 
I think the difference should be invisible, if any. Just think about this: How about using the CPL or graduated filters, and even both? There are two pieces of glass in the CPL. I cleaned my protectors every time before taking pictures. Having done some comparison, I liked the colors (or saturation) with the protector.
 
Last edited:
I even brushed one of my good lenses (a 16-80mm) against an object when mounting it during a trip to the Northwest. I broke the filter, which I then removed, and the lens was fine.
I fell on my face high up in the Colorado mountains and shattered the filter on the front of my Tamron 24-70 but the front element was untouched.

OTOH I've used filters for a long time and I cannot tell that they have an affect on sharpness. I can imagine that there could be problems with flare and so forth.
 
I use 'em** on lenses that have shallow, poorly protective lens hoods. I don't have to clean lens front surfaces often, and when I do it's usually not in a clean place with lens tissue, lens cleaning liquid, and blower available. So I wipe the filter with my shirt. I'd really rather not do that to the front surface of a lens.

Of course, if a client were paying for the best possible shot, and ghost images of light sources weren't included in the definition of "best possible", then I'd take the clear filter off. But, philosophically, I think that if you point a lens into the sun or other bright light source, you should expect some sort of trouble from flare and ghosts.

** Clear filters, not "UV" filters. Nikon NC or B+W 007.
 
I liked the colors (or saturation) with the protector.
Nikon NC, or Protector etc are claimed to be colourless - and should not changed colour and in a non-flare situation should not reduce saturation.
 
My general rule of thumb (same as the angry photographer) is any lens that cost over 1k usd gets a filter at all times. I use one on my tamron 24-70 2.8 and haven't noticed a difference in output, except for increased chromatic aberrations at times. I have yet to use one on my 80-200 2.8 (uv filter for the size of the front element) or my zeiss 25mm 2.8 zf.2 distagon. If it helps, I use the Hoya nxtplus
 
My general rule of thumb (same as the angry photographer)...
He would certainly not be my choice if I were looking for someone to emulate ;-)
 
Here is s great video by photographer Steve Perry where he discusses the issue and puts filters to the test.


Personally I quit using protection filters years ago unless I’m in a dusty or salt spray situation.
 
I live between the desert and the sea. I spend a lot of time hiking in a dry, dusty mountain environment. All of these conditions make it necessary to clean the lens or filter often. This is why I use clear UV filters.
OK, I have to admit I hear this all the time but have never understood it.

The reason many people say they use a filter is that they 'have to clean the lens or the filter'. And somehow the reasoning is that .... ? I guess the argument is cleaning is destructive, and thus you 'wear out' a filter instead of a lens?

So - how many filters have you destroyed in your life simply by cleaning them?

A bonus question. If you are only worried about a dirty lens, why buy a UV filter instead of an NC filter?
 
That's a pretty good little video. I was surprised how easily the filters broke, especially compared to how much more then lens elements could take.
 
Can i ask why that is? I mean, he can be a bit raunchy and a little like Jared Polin or Ken Rockwell, but he knows a lot
 
Can i ask why that is? I mean, he can be a bit raunchy and a little like Jared Polin or Ken Rockwell, but he knows a lot
Not as far as I'm concerned. I put no trust in those bloggers and vloggers who make controversial statements in order to to attract attention rather than to educate.
 
Not as far as I'm concerned. I put no trust in those bloggers and vloggers who make controversial statements in order to to attract attention rather than to educate.
If you follow the link - no controversial statement or claim is made :-)

All Steve Perry does is use a "drop test" to compare how impact resistant flat filters are compared to lens front elements.

You are free to accept or reject his test methodology as of some relevance to the topic.
 
Not as far as I'm concerned. I put no trust in those bloggers and vloggers who make controversial statements in order to to attract attention rather than to educate.
If you follow the link - no controversial statement or claim is made

All Steve Perry does is use a "drop test" to compare how impact resistant flat filters are compared to lens front elements.

You are free to accept or reject his test methodology as of some relevance to the topic.
My post was a reply to someone else, who said that he followed the approach advocated by "The Angry Photographer". I was not referring to Steve Perry, and have nothing against him.
 
True...and with all due respect all of his lens reccomendations have been right in my experience...i have yet to trust his camera reccomendations though. I got the tamron 24-70 2.8, nikon 80-200 2.8, and the zeiss distagon 25mm 2.8 zf.2 all off of his reccomendations and all three have been amazing.
 
Not as far as I'm concerned. I put no trust in those bloggers and vloggers who make controversial statements in order to to attract attention rather than to educate.
If you follow the link - no controversial statement or claim is made :-)

All Steve Perry does is use a "drop test" to compare how impact resistant flat filters are compared to lens front elements.

You are free to accept or reject his test methodology as of some relevance to the topic.
Again. totally agree, Leonard!
 
Thanks Renato,

That's a good cost-benefit analysis of the cost of replacing a front lens element versus buying a good high quality filter. My Zeiss Otus lens will definitely have a clear filter on it at all times. But it may not be economical to put one on my Nikon 50 mm f/1.4 or 35 mm f/1.8 lenses.

Still, it's easier and better to clean a good clear filter than an expensive front lens element in the field, IMO.
 
Here is s great video by photographer Steve Perry where he discusses the issue and puts filters to the test.


...
Thanks for the link. However, I don't think the video is conclusive for more ordinary damage we might encounter on a lens. The video presents a weighted, 1/2" round threaded rod jamming the center of a filter or lens. This is not the typical kind of damage we'd expect.

I get concerned about scratching my lens as I bushwhack through mountain and desert trails, pushing brush aside as I go. If the brush snaps into the lens it can scratch it. If I fall (more common than I like) and land on a pile of dirt that dirt can get pushed into the front of the lens even if I don't fall directly on the camera. Out in the deserts of So Cal or anywhere it's windy, blowing sand and dust, the front element is going to be subjected to a light sanding of the polished surface. Salt spray on the ocean is very common and unavoidable. Removing that salt from the front glass can be a lot easier and less expensive on a flat filter than an expensive front lens element.

See my post above about the cost-benefit analysis of using a filter versus replacing the front element. Some of the info in the short article that reggie stration posted may surprise you.

--
Dave - Be safe. Stay Healthy.
 
Last edited:

Keyboard shortcuts

Back
Top