-
Welcome to the new forums! Please read this first. For known issues we are working to resolve, click here.
Cheapest body to put the Summicron-M 35mm f/2 ASPH lens on
- Thread starter Hinoki
- Start date
jrethorst
Well-known member
Following (but my choice would be the v4 M Summicron).
John R.
John R.
Last edited:
One of the Fuji X cameras that have a lens mount. You might find a very affordable used X-E1. Still produces fine images. You must be willing to use the lens as one with a 50mm field of view. (These twenty photos were shot with an X-E1 and an adapted lens, some of them Leica M lenses: https://www.flickr.com/search/?user_id=41790885@N08&view_all=1&text=x-e1 )
For full-frame, a used Leica M240 is probably the cheapest or close to it. That puts you in the US$2000+ range. Once you are there, you might consider a Leica SL, particularly if you prefer manual focus by magnification rather than by rangefinder mechanism. SL prices are way down now that the SL2 is out.
For full-frame, a used Leica M240 is probably the cheapest or close to it. That puts you in the US$2000+ range. Once you are there, you might consider a Leica SL, particularly if you prefer manual focus by magnification rather than by rangefinder mechanism. SL prices are way down now that the SL2 is out.
You'll want full frame. Otherwise you'll have a 52 mm lens equivalent with different depth of field than the Cron naturally shoots at.
If you're looking to pair it with digital, then definitely an M. Shoot Leica glass with Leica sensors for optimal performance. This is especially important with wide glass. The SL2 is the best non-M with M glass, followed by the SL, then either the Nikon Z or Sony (Kolari modification) and/or Panasonic S1/R.
But if you want to go to the trouble of shooting an M35 (especially if a vintage lens), then do yourself a favor and pair it with a digital or film M.
If you're looking to pair it with digital, then definitely an M. Shoot Leica glass with Leica sensors for optimal performance. This is especially important with wide glass. The SL2 is the best non-M with M glass, followed by the SL, then either the Nikon Z or Sony (Kolari modification) and/or Panasonic S1/R.
But if you want to go to the trouble of shooting an M35 (especially if a vintage lens), then do yourself a favor and pair it with a digital or film M.
Last edited:
The 35 Summicron ASPH that the OP implies he already has is current rather than vintage. And if he does have it and does not want to conserve funds for now, an inexpensive but good quality APS-C camera like a Fuji X model works very well.
But this is his 2nd post:
Following (but my choice would be the v4 M Summicron).
And, while it would work okay on anything other than an M (or conceivably an SL2), why would anyone go to the trouble and expense to get such a specific type of equipment and not maximize its intended purpose?
I understand if someone is already committed to (say) Fuji and wants to try Leica glass on it. But if you're starting from scratch, why not go Leica? Sure it costs a bit more, but the thing is: you can always sell Leica. A used M body and a used M 35 (of whatever vintage) will bring back close to 100%. That's how I see it. I buy used and know I can get most or all of my money back.
aiphoto1980
Leading Member
Define affordable?
If its within leica realm, i would consider the m240, they can be bought used for 2.5k USD and they are great cameras, just a bit slow on the operation and not so good high iso, (but not terrible).
To me it produces the best colors out of any m system, (i am currently using an m10).
Pictures below with the m240 and a 35mm summilux preasph v2.
--
www.ilukewitsch.com
www.instagram.com
If its within leica realm, i would consider the m240, they can be bought used for 2.5k USD and they are great cameras, just a bit slow on the operation and not so good high iso, (but not terrible).
To me it produces the best colors out of any m system, (i am currently using an m10).
Pictures below with the m240 and a 35mm summilux preasph v2.
--
AI's Photography
Bucharest, Romania, Photography, Documentary, Photo, Street Photography, Portraits, Session, Photo Shoot, Headshots, Photoshoots, Alejandro, Ilukewitsch, Brazil, Brasil, Sao Paulo, Mexico
Login • Instagram
Welcome back to Instagram. Sign in to check out what your friends, family & interests have been capturing & sharing around the world.
www.instagram.com
R
Richard Thornton
Guest
I am looking for something similar to what you want, only for a different reason. I'd like to locate a cheap body on which to use my existing Leica lenses when I'm cycling. The bike sustains some serious jolts and I don't want to damage my M Type 262.
Leica Ms are tough, I had an accident, brand new bike a spoke broke when I was doing a good down hill. My M3 was in a back pack which I landed on. I had a 35 on the camera with goggles. Because of the goggles the 35 was sheared off the camera. Other than the pin holding on the lens on the camera, the body checked out fine. The lens needed a new mount otherwise it was fine. Because it was in a back pack there were no marks to the camera. Now I carry the camera in a handle bar pack, I use a Domke insert or foam for padding. Seems the safest way to carry a camera.
If you still want a cheaper camera to use look at the TL(2), CL or if the cropped sensor bothers you an M9 or M240. The TL is probably the cheapest option.
Good for you! I'd be interested in comparisons, especially with the 35, between the Lumix and a Leica sensor. I'm thinking 35 is pretty much as wide as you can go without some evidence of corner smearing when comparing IQ.
Artichoke
Forum Pro
the cheapest digital body new is the Pixii announced on this site ...used they will probably go for much less
used, go with an M9, but one with a good sensor will cost more than the Pixii
many GREAT film M mount bodies can be had
check out Camerquest's list, which I don't believe has been updated for some time
Loading…
www.cameraquest.com
film has its advantages & some of these are very inexpensive if you can find them
happy hunting ...that Summicron deserves a nice home
;-)
---
pbase & dpreview supporter
DPR forum member since 5/2001
my PBase Galleries
"Avoid making a commotion, just as you wouldn’t stir up the water before fishing. Don’t use a flash out of respect for the natural lighting, even when there isn’t any. If these rules aren’t followed, the photographer becomes unbearably obtrusive" -- attributed to HCB
My understanding is that it isn't just a matter of wider is worse; some lens designs are worse than others because the rear element is so close to the film plane. In any event, I don't shoot M glass wider than 28mm.... I'm trying the S5 to see whether it works well enough to get rid of my M10-P. Makes sense to invest in glass, not (digital) bodies.
I was researching wide angle lenses (M mount) and adapting on non-Leica cameras.. i stumbled on this article that compares native Leica vs Sony (modified sensor stack). Interesting the 28mm corner difference... https://blog.kasson.com/the-last-word/kolari-thin-stack-mod-on-a7ii-vs-m240-leica-282-8-elmarit/
Thank you for that Raymond - very interesting to see that even with the conversion the Sony doesn't quite perform as well as it should. I haven't been as scientific (since I cannot view the S5's RAWs) but I can tell you the S5 seems to do quite well w 35mm and 50mm Leica lenses.
Keyboard shortcuts
- f
- Forum