Filters VS hoods?

[Currantos]

Hi,

I am experimenting with different filters but I don't think I can put a hood on after?

I am using variable density filter and they all seem to be bigger than the opening of the hood for the lens?

Or am I doing something wrong. Shooting in bright light, so nice to cut down the light, but then can't use the hood problem.

 

[KCook]

You may need a different hood that threads onto the filter. Instead of the usual bayonet hood that comes with the lens.

Kelly

 

[FrancoD]

The ND filter should have a thread at the front that could be larger than the screw in thread at the back. So you need to buy a hood that has the larger diameter thread.

Some lenses have a hood, with a bayonet mount , that is much larger than the filter thread but if there is no slot to access the filter ring they don't work with PL or V ND.

 

[BBbuilder467]

Hi,

I am experimenting with different filters but I don't think I can put a hood on after?

I am using variable density filter and they all seem to be bigger than the opening of the hood for the lens?

Or am I doing something wrong. Shooting in bright light, so nice to cut down the light, but then can't use the hood problem.

My variable ND has a built-in step, so my bayonet hoods won't fit over it. I think most variables are like that. A standard ND8 is usually enough to use for f/1.4 or f/1.8 on bright days at ISO100 and the bayonet hood fits.

 

[LordKOTL]

Hi,

I am experimenting with different filters but I don't think I can put a hood on after?

I am using variable density filter and they all seem to be bigger than the opening of the hood for the lens?

Or am I doing something wrong. Shooting in bright light, so nice to cut down the light, but then can't use the hood problem.

In a similar vein I picked up a B+W XS-77 pro CP filter, and a Sensei 77mm collapsable rubber hood. The hood screws to the rotatable part of the filter.

The only neg is that the filter thread depth on the hood vignettes at 20mm. Granted, I might never use a CP at 20mm; I mainly got the hood for use on my other lenses when I use a step-up ring.

While a rubber hood might not have much drop protection, if you get an adjustable one it might help with not only fitting the filter on other lenses with differing AoV, but it should also help you adjust variable filters like a VND/CP.

just make sure you only lightly tighten the filter to the hood--just enough that you can spin the filter in either direction--don't wrench it on there.

Good luck and happy shooting!

 

[BBbuilder467]

Hi,

I am experimenting with different filters but I don't think I can put a hood on after?

I am using variable density filter and they all seem to be bigger than the opening of the hood for the lens?

Or am I doing something wrong. Shooting in bright light, so nice to cut down the light, but then can't use the hood problem.

FWIW, you're just running into one of the same issues others have. A lot of us went back to the standard NDs. The variable is more trouble than it's worth.

 

[Bob]

On most lenses, the hood fits over the outside and does not interfere with the screw-in type of filters.

 

[BBbuilder467]

On most lenses, the hood fits over the outside and does not interfere with the screw-in type of filters.

The variable NDs have a built-in step-ring from 3mm to 5mm oversize. The bayonet hood won't fit over them like a standard filter. The manufacturers don't always mention it.

 

[Mark_A]

Hi,

I am experimenting with different filters but I don't think I can put a hood on after?

I am using variable density filter and they all seem to be bigger than the opening of the hood for the lens?

Or am I doing something wrong. Shooting in bright light, so nice to cut down the light, but then can't use the hood problem.

Yes, there sometimes is that tradeoff, a hood or a filter but often not both.

I bought the Cokin P set which works well for larger lens front filters like 77mm but there is no way I can use the lens's dedicated hood with it.

So if I want to use a ND Grad which are my most used filters I have to pop the hood in my bag.

Mark_A
.
A Thread Of Pics Where The Subject Is RED!
https://www.dpreview.com/forums/post/64016142

 

[Bob]

Right - good point.

 

[Michael Fryd]

...

Or am I doing something wrong. Shooting in bright light, so nice to cut down the light, but then can't use the hood problem.

Out of curiosity, why do you want to cut down on the light? Generally more light gets you less image noise and less motion bur (from subject or camera movement).

 

[Currantos]

Yes, learning on every mistake.

Buying wrong cables, wrong size clamps, etc etc.

This photography business, LOL, I tell you.

 

[SmilerGrogan]

Variable NDs are more of a moviemaking tool and movie people use a different kind of lens hood called a matte box specifically so they can mount layers of filters on the front of their lenses and access them from the side or top. A matte box looks like this.

Movie camera people also use what's called a French flag to block sun from hitting the lens. It's basically a small black card on a flexible arm that you can place between the lens and the sun.



French flag:

Yes, learning on every mistake.

Buying wrong cables, wrong size clamps, etc etc.

This photography business, LOL, I tell you.

 

[Currantos]

Yes, I love matte boxes, but they are completely impractical for hand holding the camera type images that I do while chasing athletic/acrobatic models around the beach or on a hill, etc.

I would love to have something like this that I could use, it would make things so much nicer.

Maybe I should look into the smallest possible one that is available.

 

[Currantos]

The ND filter is bigger than normal to allow for the way it is contstructed.

Normal ones are ok, I have them but LOVE the flexibility of the ND, dialing in just the perfect amount on the fly feels like such a luxury, no screwing around with things, literally.



LOL

 

[Currantos]

Because I shoot in bright sunny conditions and I have to keep the aperture pretty wide to blur out the background and the shutter speed under 1/250 to be able to sync with the flash light.

ISO 100

F 1.4-4

Sv 1/200 - 1/250s

That lets in tons and tons of light, so I usually cut down by about 3-4 stops to get good exposure, and even then things are pretty bright I have to tone down in LR/PS.

Wish I could include examples but not really such a great idea, kinda private images just for the model/person, not for public view.

 

[Currantos]

I found the regular filters a bit finnicky. The lighting conditions change pretty quickly, a passing cloud, the sun fluctuates in intensity and also moves, so sometimes a shade appears.

So constantly screwing filters on and off and adjusting is tough and wastes a lot of time. With variable ND it is so convenient, dialing in and adjusting takes literally one shot, chimp, turn a little more and done.

To have a ND 2, 3, 4, 5 stops and to throw them back up and down is a pain in the neck.

 

[Michael Fryd]

Because I shoot in bright sunny conditions and I have to keep the aperture pretty wide to blur out the background and the shutter speed under 1/250 to be able to sync with the flash light.

ISO 100

F 1.4-4

Sv 1/200 - 1/250s

That lets in tons and tons of light, so I usually cut down by about 3-4 stops to get good exposure, and even then things are pretty bright I have to tone down in LR/PS.

Wish I could include examples but not really such a great idea, kinda private images just for the model/person, not for public view.

That's a good reason.

When in that situation, I use a flash that offers high speed sync, or use a reflector for fill.

High speed sync allows me to use flash with high shutter speeds.

I've tried variable ND filters, but I have had bad luck. The variable ND filter I tried added unwanted interference patterns to the image. It's possible I didn't have a good Variable ND filter and/or I was asking too much from it.

 

[BBbuilder467]

I found the regular filters a bit finnicky. The lighting conditions change pretty quickly, a passing cloud, the sun fluctuates in intensity and also moves, so sometimes a shade appears.

So constantly screwing filters on and off and adjusting is tough and wastes a lot of time. With variable ND it is so convenient, dialing in and adjusting takes literally one shot, chimp, turn a little more and done.

To have a ND 2, 3, 4, 5 stops and to throw them back up and down is a pain in the neck.

I can stack NDs or 2 polarizers without vignetting. If I could find a variable without the step, I think it would work.

 

[SmilerGrogan]

, I've seen them in vintage photos on the front of still cameras but I wonder if they're still made. Might be something to hunt for on eBay. Or since you're not shooting for MGM, an inexpensive one made of plastic might be just the thing. All it's doing is blocking light—the movie making type have slots where you insert $400 and $500 rectangular filters.

Yes, I love matte boxes, but they are completely impractical for hand holding the camera type images that I do while chasing athletic/acrobatic models around the beach or on a hill, etc.

I would love to have something like this that I could use, it would make things so much nicer.

Maybe I should look into the smallest possible one that is available.