Advice for group photo

[MikeDale]

I’ve been asked to photograph a group of people at work consisting of about 20 people. It will be the typical front row sitting and back row standing situation. It will be in an interior room with minimal natural lighting.



I have a D850 and a Z7 with a variety of lenses. 11,15, 20, 24-70, 35, 70-200 etc. For lighting I have an SB-910 an SB-5000 and the R1C1 close up system. I have a Magmod bounce if that’s helpful.



I don’t usually photograph people so I don’t have a clue of arranging what flashes I need.



Can you give me advice on how to do it.

 

[elliotn]

If you've got a typical ceiling (i.e. white, and not too high), bounce both flashes (SB910, SB5000) off the ceiling. Have one flash to your left, and the other to your right. Make sure no direct flash hits your subjects.

 

[BAK]

Find 20 coins and a sheet of photocopy paper.

Place ten coins side by side, and the second ten coins above or below.

That should give you an idea of how much space is wasted , and how unnecessarily small to heads will be with two rows of ten.

But cropping can give you a wide, shallow, image that might work fine on a web page.

But let's say I was shooting two rows of ten, I'd put ond flash in anumbrella, and i'd put this very close to the camera, but raised high and tilted down, to even out the distance from flash to people in both rows.

I'd point the second flash up at the ceiling, or even better circumstances permit, I'd tip the flash backwards to hit the intersection of the wall and ceiling behind me.

If there is a plan to make 8x10 prints, leave the edges (sides) of the frame empty.

BAK

 

[photolando]

I've been shooting groups for years. My typical lighting set up is a simple two umbrella set up. For a 2 row group of 20 people my lights would probably be about arms length on either side of me. Up high pointed down a bit. But not too high. The bottom of the umbrella is usually just above my head @ about 6 feet.

35mm lens would probably be best for a group this size. Depends on the room size as well. But this gets you a little closer and no distortion. Although the 24-70 would work fine. Use f/5.6 - F/8. You may need to set the speedlights to 1/1since your not using studio lights. But it's a slow shoot. You'll have time for them to recharge. You want nice even light but you don't want the lights too far back either since your not using really high powered lights. I'm guessing but I have the lights about 10 feet away with each light placed 1/4 into each side of the group. In other words each light lights one half, the other the other half.

Make sure you leave room in the crop. They may need 8x10 or 5x7 or maybe it won't matter. But aways be prepared for it. Especially 8x10 since it will crop in more than 5x7, dimensionally.

 

[elliotn]

Make sure you leave room in the crop. They may need 8x10 or 5x7 or maybe it won't matter. But aways be prepared for it. Especially 8x10 since it will crop in more than 5x7, dimensionally.

Nikon's 5:4 crop mode is very useful. (I use it most of the time.)

When photographing 20 people, you'll get a more interesting composition if you can arrange them in three rows instead of two - perhaps 8 standing, 7 on chairs, and 5 sat on the floor. (Of course this won't be viable in all workplace scenarios.)

 

[MikeDale]

Thanks for the advice guys.

 

[Photomonkey]

I’ve been asked to photograph a group of people at work consisting of about 20 people. It will be the typical front row sitting and back row standing situation. It will be in an interior room with minimal natural lighting.

I have a D850 and a Z7 with a variety of lenses. 11,15, 20, 24-70, 35, 70-200 etc. For lighting I have an SB-910 an SB-5000 and the R1C1 close up system. I have a Magmod bounce if that’s helpful.

I don’t usually photograph people so I don’t have a clue of arranging what flashes I need.

Can you give me advice on how to do it.

The 24-70 will give you the range you need to crop appropriately.

As others noted you don't really want to pose 2 rows of 10. Maybe one row of 6 with 2 rows of 7 behind or 4 rows of 5.

Whatever you do you need to make sure they are arranged so you can see all faces. If you can get chairs for the front row to sit in, second row standing and third row standing on chairs (carefully) that will give you faces that can be seen. But of course you need to make sure the ceiling has enough clearance.

You will also need f8 to ensure enough depth of field. Adjust exposure using ISO and shoot RAW.

Your two flashes can work if you can trigger one off the camera bouncing to the ceiling and another with an umbrella if you have one, if not, bounce that one too. The color of the ceiling is important if you are bouncing. White is ideal. Cream is OK but darker colors will kill you.

Test and good luck.

 

[photolando]

The 24-70 will give you the range you need to crop appropriately.

As others noted you don't really want to pose 2 rows of 10. Maybe one row of 6 with 2 rows of 7 behind or 4 rows of 5.

Whatever you do you need to make sure they are arranged so you can see all faces. If you can get chairs for the front row to sit in, second row standing and third row standing on chairs (carefully) that will give you faces that can be seen. But of course you need to make sure the ceiling has enough clearance.

Yeah, no. If the OP doesn't have any risers or a stage, I would not recommend placing a third row of people on chairs. HR would probably have a cow. The best to prevent a mishap like someone falling is to not put them in that situation in the first place. I would not even recommend a third row unless they do provide a riser or stage. of some sort.

Heck, I've even had risers and a stage and people still get clumsy and fall but at least we had a safer set up.

Besides, most chairs seat have you at about 2 feet off the ground. That would put that third row two feet above the second row. Way too high.

Two rows of 10 will be fine for what it is. Tallest people in the middle working your way down.