How good is the Panasonic G9 for birds in flight?

[Bill_Edmunds]

The thread title says it all, really. One thing I am interested, apart from the camera's ability to achieve good autofocus for a fast moving bird in flight, is the "flicker" that shows in the viewfinder during AFC burst mode, as seen at the 10:33 mark in this video . Is this only when using the electronic shutter? I know it doesn't affect the image, but I would find it distracting while trying to follow a bird.

 

[Trevor Carpenter]

I have never seen flicker anything like that example but I rarely shoot BIFs with electronic shutter. The only time I do is when using SH1/SH2 30/60 fps RAW. My latest birds including BIFs are at this link. https://photos.app.goo.gl/4fREJtD7QRRVdMer5

All pictures are G9 and PL100-400. You can judge for yourself if the meet your standard

 

[ToxicTabasco]

The thread title says it all, really. One thing I am interested, apart from the camera's ability to achieve good autofocus for a fast moving bird in flight, is the "flicker" that shows in the viewfinder during AFC burst mode, as seen at the 10:33 mark in this video . Is this only when using the electronic shutter?

Yes only with electronic shutter or any one of the 4K, 6K, or High Speed burst options. As well as the focus stacking or pre-focusing feature.

Unlike my DSLRs I couldn't burst well because of the blackout and subject jumping all over the frame due to the optical stabilization with long lenses (much more extreme than in that video). Thus, I had to back off the zoom and crop in more.

With Lumix G9 there is no black out using mechanical shutter. But mechanical shutter works only with Medium and High burst rates which are already up to 9fps. G9 also has 2 High Speed burst options which are in electronic shutter (what they used in the video), and it will have black out. But, their frame rates are 50p with several options for triggering the burst or pre-burst. And limited to about 50 to 60 shots per burst of 1 to 1.4 seconds. Hence the reason I use High burst rate for most of my BIF and wildlife. Medium works well with motor sports, and the buffer takes a lot longer to fill.

I know it doesn't affect the image, but I would find it distracting while trying to follow a bird.

My experience with G9 and other digital cameras are, that the electronic shutter does have some compromises to the image. Rolling shutter is usually big with some cameras, and really well controlled with the G9. And sometimes the bokeh can look haloed depending on how high the shutter is, and the brightness of the scene.

Anyway, that's my take on the Lumix G9 for wildlife. Hope you find it helpfull.

 

[Bill_Edmunds]

That was very helpful. Just so I make sure I understand, the mechanical shutter doesn't have blackout at any speed? And pre-burst doesn't work with the mechanical shutter?

 

[ToxicTabasco]

That was very helpful. Just so I make sure I understand, the mechanical shutter doesn't have blackout at any speed? And pre-burst doesn't work with the mechanical shutter?

That is about right. My previous post may be incorrect in some parts. I just put the G9 through some burst tests. With H burst using AFC in mechanical shutter there will be some blackout between burst shots if the light is low and shutter is slow (like in the video). And depending on how bright it is, the burst rate can vary as will the blackout.

HOWEVER, with HS1 burst that uses electronic shutter, as well as H burst using mechanical shutter with AF set to Manual + AF (not AFC), there is no black out.

Hope this helps.

 

[hifi]

The thread title says it all, really. One thing I am interested, apart from the camera's ability to achieve good autofocus for a fast moving bird in flight, is the "flicker" that shows in the viewfinder during AFC burst mode, as seen at the 10:33 mark in this video . Is this only when using the electronic shutter? I know it doesn't affect the image, but I would find it distracting while trying to follow a bird.

The G9 is currently Panasonic's flagship m43 body. There are many examples on this forum of it getting some great BIF shots. I am very pleased with mine and the AF on it is great for this type of photography.

 

[aayjay]

Here's my take on the G9 for BIF.

The issue with the EVF is that the EVF resolution decreases slightly during fast bursts of picture taking. It appears slightly out-of-focus as you rapid fire, both with mechanical and electronic shutter. The EVF just can't refresh fast enough. It's a bit annoying, but not a show-stopper.

When using mechanical shutter, there is a flickering but any camera shooting with a mechanical shutter will do this. It's the nature of the beast.

For tracking BIF, shooting birds against a solid sky works quite well.

For tracking BIF against a busy background can be an issue. There will be times that the camera has a hard time distinguishing between the background and foreground subjects.

Also, the scan rate of the sensor is not fast enough to freeze-frame wings when shooting at high shutter speeds above 1/2000 sec. For example, freeze-framing an Eastern Bluebird requires shutter speeds above 1/4000 sec. The wings will appear distorted in electronic shutter mode. Shooting in mechanical shutter mode will remedy this.

I keep the G9 with the 100-400 lens with me most times for the most versatile system to quickly get shots of birds, but if you want the best mirrorless camera for BIF, the Sony A9 is the one to beat.

 

[HappyJack67]

I have the G9 and 100-300mk2 at present but looking at the 100-400 - can you help with settings for birds against grey skies as mine are always a dark shadow, very underexposed

 

[Trevor Carpenter]

I have the G9 and 100-300mk2 at present but looking at the 100-400 - can you help with settings for birds against grey skies as mine are always a dark shadow, very underexposed

It's a fact of life that shooting BIFs in grey conditions is likely to give you some not so good results.

I would start by looking at your focus area experimenting between multi point (I use the custom multi star) and a smallish but not too small single square. The objective is to get the exposure from the birds body but not always that easy when the subject is moving. Try both and see what gives you best results.

You can they try EC+ a bit probably at least one, you may of course be in danger of blowing highlights in your sky so shoot in RAW to give you a better chance of recovery.

You can also try ETTR (Expose to the right), a technique that I never find works very well for me but many people swear by it.

 

[itsallBb2me]

G9, Leica 100-400




Camera got it right.

Gray sky, mediocre light.


This one was just a speck in the sky.

 

[DDoram]

Hi Bill:

The article below is a good summation. The G9 will work but is not quite as good as some other models. For the small amount of this type of photography that I do, it is fine.

The Best Mirrorless Cameras for Birds in Flight Ranked - Mirrorless Comparison

A few years ago, our reader Alfredo suggested an idea for an article. Since we test the autofocus performance of many cameras at the same red kite feeding stations, why not publish a list of all the cameras we use with their keeper rate for birds in flight? I liked ... Read more

mirrorlesscomparison.com

Dale

The thread title says it all, really. One thing I am interested, apart from the camera's ability to achieve good autofocus for a fast moving bird in flight, is the "flicker" that shows in the viewfinder during AFC burst mode, as seen at the 10:33 mark in this video . Is this only when using the electronic shutter? I know it doesn't affect the image, but I would find it distracting while trying to follow a bird.

 

[Roxy1945]

I had the G9 and 100-400mm for awhile but with the focusing and weight hand holding it gave me problems so eventually went for the Sony RX10IV and haven't looked back. It's great at focusing for BIF and everything else. Some of my images below.

 

[Mr Giggles]

I had the G9 and did birds in flight with the Oly 300 prime and the 200 Panny prime with tele convertor

if BIF is you r primary goal get a Nikon D500 - its extremely better for that

on the other hand it can be done as my Turkey Vulture image shows

 

[Roxy1945]

I had the G9 and did birds in flight with the Oly 300 prime and the 200 Panny prime with tele convertor

if BIF is you r primary goal get a Nikon D500 - its extremely better for that

on the other hand it can be done as my Turkey Vulture image shows

Of course it can be done. But question is how easy. I found it not easy so I changed.

--
Peter:

Peter J. Maudsley

Explore Peter J. Maudsley’s 1,743 photos on Flickr!

www.flickr.com

Birds & Animals

Okanagan Birds and Animals

www.flickr.com

Insect macros

Explore this photo album by Peter J. Maudsley on Flickr!

www.flickr.com

Costa Rica wildlife

Explore this photo album by Peter J. Maudsley on Flickr!

www.flickr.com

Peter J. Maudsley’s albums | Flickr

www.flickr.com

 

[Trevor Carpenter]

I had the G9 and 100-400mm for awhile but with the focusing and weight hand holding it gave me problems so eventually went for the Sony RX10IV and haven't looked back. It's great at focusing for BIF and everything else. Some of my images below.

I can't tell from your links which shots were taken with the Sony. Can you be more specific.

 

[Roxy1945]

I had the G9 and 100-400mm for awhile but with the focusing and weight hand holding it gave me problems so eventually went for the Sony RX10IV and haven't looked back. It's great at focusing for BIF and everything else. Some of my images below.

I can't tell from your links which shots were taken with the Sony. Can you be more specific.

The top link shows the Sony gallery to look through for BIF. I only started taking more this winter.

 

[itsallBb2me]

...you would just stop setting AF sensitivity to +2. I know it seems right...who wouldn’t want AF Sensitivity at its MAX? Answer: if you’re shooting BIFS, you don’t. A “Responsive” setting means the camera will wander at will within the frame, sampling interesting focal objects at its whim, hoping you might like one. A setting of -2 (Fixed) means just what it says: acqure a subject and stick with it.



So, when you’re shooting BIFs, the holy grail is to nail that spot-on focus in the first frame of your burst and then STAY WITH IT (fix on it), come what may (busy background, intrusive foreground object, whatever.)

There’s a lot more to it, but -2 AF sensitivity is a good start. Try these settings;

AF SET: -2- 2 +1

Animal Detect.

Wide AF Mode

Preset Burst Mode

AFC

Quick Focus

Tell us how you do.

 

[Trevor Carpenter]

...you would just stop setting AF sensitivity to +2. I know it seems right...who wouldn’t want AF Sensitivity at its MAX? Answer: if you’re shooting BIFS, you don’t. A “Responsive” setting means the camera will wander at will within the frame, sampling interesting focal objects at its whim, hoping you might like one. A setting of -2 (Fixed) means just what it says: acqure a subject and stick with it.

So, when you’re shooting BIFs, the holy grail is to nail that spot-on focus in the first frame of your burst and then STAY WITH IT (fix on it), come what may (busy background, intrusive foreground object, whatever.)

There’s a lot more to it, but -2 AF sensitivity is a good start. Try these settings;

AF SET: -2- 2 +1

Animal Detect.

Wide AF Mode

Preset Burst Mode

AFC

Quick Focus

Tell us how you do.

Your post highlights what a can of worms this subject is. The Lumix AF Guide shows +2 +1 +2 for wildlife. I have serious doubts whether any of these settings make enough difference to care about.

 

[itsallBb2me]

The Panasonic AF guide is useless for BIF shooters. It is outmoded (pre-V2.0 Bird Detect), poorly written (translated?) and flat wrong (IMO) in some of its recommendations (especially “Wildlife”). Ignore the recommendations and read the technical descriptions for the 3 settings very closely - especially for AF sensitivity.



In most BIF shooting situations, at least in my experience, a bird does not suddenly jump into the frame and then flit about. Rather, the shooter spots the bird in flight and then attempts to frame it and stick with it while shooting. Does that sound like a job for “Locked” or “Responsive”? Read the descriptions carefully and then decide for yourself . And then, why not try the settings in my earlier post for yourself? You’ve got the equipment.

 

[Bassaidai]

Hi David,

thanks for posting the settings - I snapshoted your G9 BIF recommendations. For sure this is a good starting point (or final) to do some more experimentation.