fuji fx 10 24 nodal point

[evert100]

is there anyone who knows at which distance from the flim point the nodal point is at the Fuji FX 10 24 then I have a starting point to calculate it exactly

 

[a_c_skinner]

If this is to take panoramas then you can determine the no parallax point by experiment.

I THINK the point moves as you zoom too.

If you have another need for the nodal points you'd need to know front or rear nodal point, there being two.

The no parallax point is, BTW, the entrance pupil. The rear nodal point is pertinent with swinging lens cameras, not the whole system movements.

 

[sluggy_warrior]

is there anyone who knows at which distance from the flim point the nodal point is at the Fuji FX 10 24 then I have a starting point to calculate it exactly

A good simple method to find out the nodal point (I used two toothpicks sticking up with play-doh):
https://dgrin.smugmug.com/Tutorials/Shooting-Tech-and-Tips/Finding-The-Nodal-Point-of/

Note that the nodal point will be different at different focal lengths, I usually shoot panos at 18mm so I only measured mine at 18mm and stick to it.

On the 18-55, the nodal point happens to be right on the focus ring for 18mm, so, when I put my left thumb there to rotate the camera, sometimes it'll change the focus, took me a while to figure out why my pano shots got out of focus occasionally. I had to disable the MF override, and use the front switch to MF when needed instead.

 

[evert100]

thanks, i've been busy for a while. to my surprise, the point was about 9 cm from the sensor. Both for 24 mm and 10 mm. It is strange that zooming does not change that. Anyone have experience with the fuji x 10 24?

 

[lewiedude2]

is there anyone who knows at which distance from the flim point the nodal point is at the Fuji FX 10 24 then I have a starting point to calculate it exactly

A good simple method to find out the nodal point (I used two toothpicks sticking up with play-doh):
https://dgrin.smugmug.com/Tutorials/Shooting-Tech-and-Tips/Finding-The-Nodal-Point-of/

Note that the nodal point will be different at different focal lengths, I usually shoot panos at 18mm so I only measured mine at 18mm and stick to it.

On the 18-55, the nodal point happens to be right on the focus ring for 18mm, so, when I put my left thumb there to rotate the camera, sometimes it'll change the focus, took me a while to figure out why my pano shots got out of focus occasionally. I had to disable the MF override, and use the front switch to MF when needed instead.

Great information and I will have to work through it for my 16-55 - at a couple of different FLs. Here is a question, why don’t the ‘youtube’ landscape ‘Pros’ have gear that affords them perfect pano shooting? I mean, some that have 100,000’s of subscribers with rather high view counts and they clearly don’t use the bottom plate utilized in the blog post. I would have thought that if they were real pros they would have this type of tool that makes for fantastic imagery.

I’m just curious about it.

 

[a_c_skinner]

"why don’t the ‘youtube’ landscape ‘Pros’ have gear that affords them perfect pano shooting?"

Rotation around the no-parallax point only makes a big difference when there are objects in the foreground or complex scenes in the medium distance. In addition dedicated stitching software (ptGui, MS-ICE, Hugin, perhaps Adobe and Affinity) can correct small to medium parallax errors that a decade ago mandated a panorama head.

All but one of the panos on here http://www.flickr.com/photos/hafan_storth/ were hand held. You need to have a rough idea where the no-parallax point is and rotate around that rather than the natural tendency to rotate around your feet.

This was a mosaic, hand held because I didn't have a wide enough lens with me:

https://live.staticflickr.com/4819/31862441538_6869fc7de3_k.jpg

Andrew Skinner

 

[lewiedude2]

Thanks, Andrew. Makes sense as I didn’t really think about the foreground’s part in the composition but rather zeroed in on a mountain far off in the distance. The handheld tip is valuable to me. Also, would it necessarily be the same for all 16-55 zooms? Just looking to close the loop on this so I don’t have to purchase another piece of gear that I may seldom use ! Who says GAS isn’t real!?

 

[a_c_skinner]

I doubt there is important copy to copy variation. I've got a more or less unused panorama head..

 

[sluggy_warrior]

Also, would it necessarily be the same for all 16-55 zooms?

It should be the same for all samples of the same lens, as the lenses are built almost exact to specs, so the entrance pupil should be exactly where it should be.

 

[sluggy_warrior]

"why don’t the ‘youtube’ landscape ‘Pros’ have gear that affords them perfect pano shooting?"

Rotation around the no-parallax point only makes a big difference when there are objects in the foreground or complex scenes in the medium distance. In addition dedicated stitching software (ptGui, MS-ICE, Hugin, perhaps Adobe and Affinity) can correct small to medium parallax errors that a decade ago mandated a panorama head.

Yup, I always should handheld, and usually only get minor error when I'm sloppy indoor (e.g. a quick visit to a model house), otherwise most of my panos are pretty good. Hugin is very forgiving, and its include/exclude masks allow room for minor error.

I usually should vertically, put my left thumb under the nodal point, snap, rotate, snap, don't even look into the viewfinder or LCD, just a guess of overlapping, usually within 3-5 seconds of each other. When I had the Nikon 18-140 with VR, its floating elements inside actually caused blur when I rotate and stop the camera too fast

It's common practice to lock the exposure for more consistency, but for high DR scenes (e.g. indoor/shadow on left and bright sunlight on right), I don't lock exposure and Hugin/Enblend can make a seamless nice transitioning pano.

Some samples of my panos, all hand-held and stitched with Hugin:

Flickr Search — “Hugin”

www.flickr.com

 

[a_c_skinner]

Locking exposure seems arguable either way. What is essential is to lock white balance, that does seem difficult to correct.

 

[sluggy_warrior]

Locking exposure seems arguable either way. What is essential is to lock white balance, that does seem difficult to correct.

I always shoot RAW so WB has never been a concern. I usually choose a different WB from the camera's about 80% of the time.

 

[LH]

thanks, i've been busy for a while. to my surprise, the point was about 9 cm from the sensor. Both for 24 mm and 10 mm. It is strange that zooming does not change that. Anyone have experience with the fuji x 10 24?

I'll do 360°x180° panoramas with a X-T3 using PTGui Pro. I've carefully found the no-parallax point for the 10-24 several times and I've tried some test panoramas. At least with my sample of this lens, If you're doing more landscape kinda panoramas it's fine, but I've yet to get interiors or even outdoor shots with relatively close objects to stitch without some weird artifacts coming up. I've given up on using this lens for this purpose. Instead use either a Zeiss 12mm or the 16mm f1.4. Both create flawless results even with very tight interior shots with some objects only 3 feet from the camera. Maybe my sample of the 10-24 is just crappy, but sending it back to Fujifilm for a check found nothing wrong in their estimation.

Here is an outdoor one I did with the 12mm several month ago... https://roundme.com/tour/373512/view/1277632/

 

[a_c_skinner]

I cannot give details, but distortion may be the issue there, that also makes good stitching difficult. My old Nikon 18-200 never stitched well for that reason.

--
Andrew Skinner

 

[sluggy_warrior]

I cannot give details, but distortion may be the issue there, that also makes good stitching difficult. My old Nikon 18-200 never stitched well for that reason.

That's what I suspect, too. Maybe check if PTGui has the lens in its database. All of my panos so far all shot at 18mm (Nikon 18-55, 18-140, Fuji XF 18-55, XF 18-135). Granted, I had to take calibration shots for the 18-140 and submitted it to Lensfun in order to have it supported in Hugin and darktable.

 

[Banderras]

Nice gathering of pano shooters here. I also find it acceptable to shoot single row panorama handheld with a thumb under the nodal point.

Anyone has success with multi-row panorama handheld?

 

[a_c_skinner]

Yes, lots. My Flickr pages have several mosaics taken mainly to get wider than the lens I had with me. This is 12 images:

https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/47791950892_bbf7e7c05d_h.jpg

Fuji 16-55 wasn't wide enough. Big church, small churchyard.

--
Andrew Skinner

 

[Banderras]

Great result, it's a 4x3 shot panorama I suppose? I tried a few times with 18mm and was good also. I wonder if it is harder to get good results handheld with longer lenses, like 50mm or 90mm. I tried a few times with a 50mm and about 3m subject distance, a shot of a tree trunk - the branches were all over the place.

 

[a_c_skinner]

"I tried a few times with a 50mm and about 3m subject distance, a shot of a tree trunk - the branches were all over the place."

I think that close and that complex will need a carefully set up panorama head as well as a bit of luck.

 

[sluggy_warrior]

Nice gathering of pano shooters here. I also find it acceptable to shoot single row panorama handheld with a thumb under the nodal point.

Anyone has success with multi-row panorama handheld?

Usually just two rows. I shoot for the little planet handheld sometimes, but it's weird/hard to hold my thumb in one place while rotating the camera all around it.

XF18-135, at 18mm, 16 shots.