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The problem is trying to come anywhere close to matching luminescence. That's probably a 150 watt incandescent bulb putting out over 2,000 lumens. If that's a halogen bulb, it's putting out a bit more.Many modeling lights are 150w fairly standard halogen bulbs (like the one in the middle below).
Has anyone replaced some of those with LED "bulbs"?
If so, any recommendation/advice?
Thanks.
If you want to be able to dim the light, you need a dimmable LED that's compatible with the dimming circuit in your strobe. Not all combinations are compatible.Many modeling lights are 150w fairly standard halogen bulbs (like the one in the middle below).
Has anyone replaced some of those with LED "bulbs"?
If so, any recommendation/advice?
Thanks.
1600 lumen is comparable to 100 watts. The LED I referred to above are 15 watts and not the less powerful 6 watts (I think) that would not be very bright.They're also not very powerful. LEDs become comparable at about 30 watts.These are good points. I usually dim the halogen because of the heat but I could leave the LED at full power all the time given that they don't get very warm.
These 1600 lumen bulbs don't seem to be too big...
But give them a try.
Ah! Very helpful. Thanks jlafferty.Someone on another forum used an LED corn bulb and was pleased with the results. Not this model per se, but to give you an idea:
https://alexnld.com/product/e27-e14...500lm-led-cover-corn-light-lamp-bulb-ac-220v/
Good point. I think I would just turn off the “proportional” feature of the strobe as I would not have to worry about heat.If you want to be able to dim the light, you need a dimmable LED that's compatible with the dimming circuit in your strobe. Not all combinations are compatible.
That's unlikely to be much of an issue on the larger E27 bulbs that these LEDs would replace (typically 100-250 W, they have a secondary glass cover), yes certainly an issue for the 300+ stuff but these LEDs aren't much use as replacements there.I really dislike halogen bulbs because these energy hogs really suck up power and are hot enough to char flesh. Also, they've been known to explode from fingerprint oil if someone is sloppy changing the bulb.
I can confirm the secondary glass cover on the halogen as this is what broke on my modeling light. The inner halogen is still working actually.That's unlikely to be much of an issue on the larger E27 bulbs that these LEDs would replace (typically 100-250 W, they have a secondary glass cover), yes certainly an issue for the 300+ stuff but these LEDs aren't much use as replacements there.I really dislike halogen bulbs because these energy hogs really suck up power and are hot enough to char flesh. Also, they've been known to explode from fingerprint oil if someone is sloppy changing the bulb.