Inon Z330 sync together and pulselength

[daveco2]

I just received two Z330s for use with a Meikon housing with single sync cable connection. I assumed that the two strobes could be connected with the Y cable that Sea&Sea sells. This was wrong - the Inon instructions state (page 17) that connecting two strobes together will result in damage. This was news to the reseller, and they have accepted a return. Sea&Sea YS-2DJ strobes can be connected in parallel.

As an aside, I was able to trigger a single Z330 by either fiberoptic link or sync cord link with both of those links attached. Sea&Sea instructions state that hooking up the sync cable will disable the fiberoptic trigger.

I measured the Z330 output pulse length for kicks; and integrated the pulse waveforms to get total output energy and f-stop change. Power settings and f-stop changes as follows: From Full to -0.5 (1.4 stops), from -0.5 to -2 (1 stop), from -2 to -4 (0.06 stop), from -4 to -6 (0.32 stop). Curious that there isn't much f-stop difference in the lower settings, but understandable considering there isn't much pulselength to work with.


Z330 output pulse waveforms as function of power setting. T refers to pulselength.

Having returned the Z330s, I am now back after many months to the beginning of the search for suitable strobes. I am considering the following alternatives. I would appreciate comments and suggestions.

1. Stay with sync connection and give up on TTL.

2. Purchase a second, used, ST-100 and try a Sea&Sea Y sync cable. Relatively cheap experiment if they blow up.

3. Purchase Retra strobes with their Sync-fiberoptic converter. Convert to fiberoptic TTL if UW-Technics comes out with a TTL converter for Sony camera and Meikon case, which they say is under development.

 

[Barmaglot_07]

Can you sync just one of the strobes with a cable, and run the other one in slave mode using fiber optics off the first one? Sea & Sea strobes have dedicated connectors for that, but it should be possible to cobble together something with Inons as well.

 

[peterak]

Interesting waveform data. Assuming the scales are all the same, the difference between -2 and -4 looks like a lot more than 0.06 stop.

 

[daveco2]

Can you sync just one of the strobes with a cable, and run the other one in slave mode using fiber optics off the first one? Sea & Sea strobes have dedicated connectors for that, but it should be possible to cobble together something with Inons as well.

The reseller was not able to come up with such an alternative. I don't see how it's possible since there is only one fiberoptic connector on either strobe type, and that's a receiver, not a transmitter. Maybe there are aftermarket gadgets that could make it work. I'll check into it.

I never dreamed that this strobe thing would be such a problem. I'm thinking now that the most straightforward approach would be to stay with manual control, get another ST-100, and run two of them off a Sea&Sea Y cable, praying that such a connection won't destroy either or both as with the Inon type. Considering that the ST-100 has dumb electronics, maybe that could work. Aliexpress still shows them for $250, but who knows if that's real. If not, I'll stay with one strobe, if one of them survives.

Later, if the UW-Technics converter ever becomes available, I'll revisit the expensive dual TTL strobe approach then.

I investigated an entirely new case. Aquatica and Nauticam do not offer a TTL converter for a7Rii. Sea&Sea does offer the converter with their case. Total cost for case, ports for 16-35 mm and 90 mm macro, TTL converter, and strobes would be about $6,600. That's a little over the cost of the last trip I took to Palau and Yap.

 

[daveco2]

Interesting waveform data. Assuming the scales are all the same, the difference between -2 and -4 looks like a lot more than 0.06 stop.

You're right. More careful integrals show 1/3 stop difference. Here are the two traces overlaid.

Thanks




-2 and -4 traces superimposed.

 

[Barmaglot_07]

The reseller was not able to come up with such an alternative. I don't see how it's possible since there is only one fiberoptic connector on either strobe type, and that's a receiver, not a transmitter. Maybe there are aftermarket gadgets that could make it work. I'll check into it.

There is no special transmitter, you just put the fiber optic end in front of the main bulb. Sea & Sea strobes have a dedicated socket for it, like so:





Inon strobes don't, but you may be able to build a holder for the fiber optic cable and trigger the second strobe that way.

 

[daveco2]

The reseller was not able to come up with such an alternative. I don't see how it's possible since there is only one fiberoptic connector on either strobe type, and that's a receiver, not a transmitter. Maybe there are aftermarket gadgets that could make it work. I'll check into it.

There is no special transmitter, you just put the fiber optic end in front of the main bulb. Sea & Sea strobes have a dedicated socket for it, like so:



Inon strobes don't, but you may be able to build a holder for the fiber optic cable and trigger the second strobe that way.

Very interesting. I'll experiment with minimally obscuring attachments for my ST-100 and see if I can trigger my YS-03.

I suppose triggering would be reliable if demonstrated with a number of shots in the garage.

If all that works, I'll get another ST-100 and take the cheap way out.