Effects of Very Cold Weather on Equipment?

[SoupOrPhoto]

The good news is that the forecast for Sunday night is now predicting clear skies in my area (although it is changing daily). The bad news is that the temperature is expected to be below zero F (which is like -167.8 C--or something). Gear I'm using:

Primary:
Nikon D750
-- TetherTools CaseRelay power via USB to large Li battery (also have battery grip)
-- Long USB cord to laptop (warm, in house/car) - rated only to 32 deg F
Nikon 200-500 f/5.6
iOptron SkyGuider Pro (connected to battery via USB)



Secondary:
Nikon D90 with battery grip on fixed tripod for moon trail (no cables or tracking)

My largest concern is that the cables may get too cold and not work--but I've never tried using them in temperatures this low. I'm also concerned the the SkyGuider Pro may be affected by the cold. I think that the battery will be fine as long as the cables work as it is nearly 30,000 mAH and so it should provide enough power even if efficiency is reduced.

Have others experienced trouble at very low temperatures? Are there other issues that I'm not considering? I can insulate the battery but is there an easy way to insulate the cables (do I need to)?

Thanks for any advice.

 

[1llusive]

I don't think I would worry about the cables. If anything the copper wire will be more efficient at cold temperatures, but nothing that you would notice. I would think more about the ports and interfaces and keeping them frost-free.

 

[Tristimulus]

Here we have temperatures well below freezing - down to about -30 C (-22 F).

No problems exept having to change batteries more often. And yes, cables get a bit stiff.

The observer is the weakest point, freezing you see... :-D

 

[1DSmII]

I wouldn't worry too much about the electronic side of things, apart from the battery drain aspect, which should be manageable if you insulate a bit.

As far as I'm aware cameras are cold rated mainly for the mechanical lubricants used, which can become much stiffer at extreme temps. If you could strip down the camera/lenses lubricants can be replaced for ultra-cold weather lubricants I think (this is sometimes done with EQ mounts), but it'll probably be OK anyway as long as the camera is left constantly running - the internal heat generated should keep the mechanism going, I would suspect till at least -25C, but that is just a guess.

 

[SoupOrPhoto]

Here we have temperatures well below freezing - down to about -30 C (-22 F).

No problems exept having to change batteries more often. And yes, cables get a bit stiff.

The observer is the weakest point, freezing you see... :-D

No question I'm the weak point in the plan...cold and tired is not my favorite condition!

Thanks for the info.

 

[SoupOrPhoto]

I wouldn't worry too much about the electronic side of things, apart from the battery drain aspect, which should be manageable if you insulate a bit.

As far as I'm aware cameras are cold rated mainly for the mechanical lubricants used, which can become much stiffer at extreme temps. If you could strip down the camera/lenses lubricants can be replaced for ultra-cold weather lubricants I think (this is sometimes done with EQ mounts), but it'll probably be OK anyway as long as the camera is left constantly running - the internal heat generated should keep the mechanism going, I would suspect till at least -25C, but that is just a guess.

Helpful, thanks. I hadn't considered leaving the camera on for heat--good idea.

 

[NancyP]

For equipment or people, those disposable chemical hand-warmers are great. Gaff-tape one on a lens near the front element to avoid fogging (more importantly, use that lens hood!).

Loading…

cen.acs.org

Make your own rust!

 

[swimswithtrout]

As has been pointed out, the electronics will be fine.


Once the shows over and you're picking up, be EXTREMELY careful handling your cables. They will become extremely brittle.


It's also best to try and avoid bring your camera/lens' directly inside to the heated, humid air as this will will cause a lot of frost and condensation .

 

[SoupOrPhoto]

For equipment or people, those disposable chemical hand-warmers are great. Gaff-tape one on a lens near the front element to avoid fogging (more importantly, use that lens hood!).

https://cen.acs.org/articles/88/i4/Hand-Warmers.html

Make your own rust!

Good idea. I looked online and that have foot-shaped ones, too!

 

[Lyle Aldridge]

I'm not quite so clear as others seem about all the electrical issues. As I understand it, the SkyGuider Pro uses an internal lithium battery, and I can't tell from your OP whether you intend to remove it and supply power from your "large lithium battery," or whether you're thinking the large battery will be charging the internal battery.

The latter may be a problem, because lithium batteries can't be charged at temps below freezing. They can be used in the cold, but trying to charge one will often destroy the Li battery right then and there.

 

[SoupOrPhoto]

I'm not quite so clear as others seem about all the electrical issues. As I understand it, the SkyGuider Pro uses an internal lithium battery, and I can't tell from your OP whether you intend to remove it and supply power from your "large lithium battery," or whether you're thinking the large battery will be charging the internal battery.

The latter may be a problem, because lithium batteries can't be charged at temps below freezing. They can be used in the cold, but trying to charge one will often destroy the Li battery right then and there.

I have been connecting the battery to the SkyGuider Pro via USB. I think that this just charges the internal battery (I assume that it runs off of the internal battery). I'm not sure if the internal battery can be removed.

Maybe I should leave it unplugged? It is supposed to last about 12 hours, if I remember correctly, and I should only need 3-4 hours. I was thinking that, as the battery cooled, it may further reduce the time so I should leave it plugged in.

 

[timbazi]

I had a Nikon D40 slow down quite a bit in -30C, also the batteries wont last too long. Maybe put them in a styrofoam box :-D Cables just go stiff cause of the plastic.

Let your gear warm slowly in your camera bag when you get back inside.

Happy shooting!

 

[1llusive]

Let your gear warm slowly in your camera bag when you get back inside.

Best thing is to put cameras and lenses in sealed bags before bringing them inside.

 

[SoupOrPhoto]

Let your gear warm slowly in your camera bag when you get back inside.

Best thing is to put cameras and lenses in sealed bags before bringing them inside.

I just set some out to remind myself with dry packs in them. Thanks.

 

[SoupOrPhoto]

The combination of the Nikon EP-5B power supply and the TetherTools Case Relay just failed in testing outside in 5-7 degree (F) weather (wind chill -11 F). The camera would almost immediately stop live view mode and display "Err" in the LCD. When I switched to an internal battery, no problems.

Not sure where the problem lies and I'm going to put together insulation and possibly heat for it and try again. My bet is that the battery in the Case Relay got too cold.

 

[SoupOrPhoto]

FYI, after shooting the eclipse in very cold weather (-4 F, -21 wind chill), I discovered an issues with the Nikon 200-500 f/5.6: the zoom and focus rings froze. I could move the focus ring very slowly but it was very hard to be precise--especially with gloves and hand warmers.

When I tried to zoom, I ended up applying enough force to knock everything out of alignment (tracking mount/head). But it did zoom. And the lens is fine. (I think if I did not have to have gloves on, I could have managed better.)

As in my post above, the combination of the Nikon EP-5B power supply and the TetherTools Case Relay was the weak point in the cold (or maybe separate from the cold?). I built an insulated bag with hand warmers and monitored the temperature (45-55 F). This helped, but for some reason the Case Relay was not charging its internal battery from my lithium battery. It gave up the ghost right as totality started but I was up and running again quickly after putting a battery in the camera (which had no apparent difficulty in the cold).

Overall, I'm very impressed with my Nikon gear (D750, 200-500) for being rock solid outside for 5 hours in these temperatures!

 

[Rudy Pohl]

FYI, after shooting the eclipse in very cold weather (-4 F, -21 wind chill), I discovered an issues with the Nikon 200-500 f/5.6: the zoom and focus rings froze. I could move the focus ring very slowly but it was very hard to be precise--especially with gloves and hand warmers.

When I tried to zoom, I ended up applying enough force to knock everything out of alignment (tracking mount/head). But it did zoom. And the lens is fine. (I think if I did not have to have gloves on, I could have managed better.)

As in my post above, the combination of the Nikon EP-5B power supply and the TetherTools Case Relay was the weak point in the cold (or maybe separate from the cold?). I built an insulated bag with hand warmers and monitored the temperature (45-55 F). This helped, but for some reason the Case Relay was not charging its internal battery from my lithium battery. It gave up the ghost right as totality started but I was up and running again quickly after putting a battery in the camera (which had no apparent difficulty in the cold).

Overall, I'm very impressed with my Nikon gear (D750, 200-500) for being rock solid outside for 5 hours in these temperatures!

Glad it worked for you. I have used Nikon cameras, lenses and batteries for 6 years all winter long in insanely cold weather and never had a single problem. It is truly amazing gear!

Rudy