Equipment needed for product photography?

vrivr

New member
Messages
2
Reaction score
0
Hello. I'm planning on getting into product photography (clothes, jewelry, accessories, etc...) and i've been investigating the ideal equipment. I think I know what i need but wanted to ask you for guidance anyway.

I don't have a lot of budget, so this is what i'm planning on buying:

  • 3 speedlights and a controller. (Yongnuos 560 IV and 560 tx)
  • 3 backdrops. (white, black, green)
  • 3 softboxes? octaboxes? umbrellas? with bracket for the flashes.
  • 3 light stands.
  • 1 5 in 1 reflector maybe?
  • Stands for the backdrops and some clamps.
Right now I can't afford strobes, so that's out of the question. Also I was thinking I could use this setup for more than products.

Could you please tell me if I'm heading in the right direction with this list, or if I need to change/add smth? thank you!
 
First purchase?

Some C stands. The most important thing!

Then: zoom reflectors, stripbox, snoots…

Backdrop: white or white+grey

3 speedlights? Ok.

Clamps? A lot of different.
 
Three speedlights are fine.

Backdrops - what kind? Seamless paper backdrops in white and grey and a backdrop stand make sense. Forget about the green (unless you love green and don’t think green screen photography)

Softboxes with speedlights, maybe. I’d rather get a couple of umbrellas, silver, white.

Lightstands and brackets - get some decent quality.

A reflector maybe. But I prefer a silver / white one. Much easier to use than the 5 in 1s.

Don’t start with overbuying. A lot in product photography is improvising with available materials.

You want a collection of strange stuff, that can be used as reflectors (cardboard, styrofoam board… ) and as diffusion material (white fabric, baking paper, shower curtains… )

And you want lots of A-clamps, binder clips, maybe Super clamps and broomsticks, aluminium tubes, stiff wire etc to keep these materials in place.

And you need cardboard and tape to shape the light, block it, reflect it. Cinefoil can also be useful.

If you think it’s mainly about equipment, you’re heading in the wrong direction.

It’s about playing with light and learning how it behaves. This can be done with all kinds of non photographic materials and equipment.
 
For most products you'll be fine with speedlights. Modifiers depend on what you're shooting, but I get the most usage out of a pair of stripboxes (with grids) and a 2x3' softbox. I used to use Profoto for my softboxes, but then I realized that for most things there's little to no difference (other than a slight color cast...but you should be retouching your product shots anyway so that's a non-issue) between the $300+ Profotos and the ~$40-50 Fotodiox brand. Build quality is better on the Profoto but if you don't tear down and set up for every shoot the cheaper ones should last a while.

I'd also factor in little things like various cardstock for fill light, a large roll of tracing paper for more diffusion, some of that poster adhesive (or the real tacky stuff if you wanna spend the money) for holding your products in place. Off the top of my head though other than any props/backgrounds you might want that's about it. The setup you have is fine. Oh, and a tripod.
 
Some suggestions to save you money

1. You can just buy a grey backdrop and use flash gels to give colour:

2. You need clamps try here and here.

3. DYI reflectors here and holder here.

4. Umbrellas can give great light if used well and without the big $

5. Do you want to learn more about product photography try here.

Regards
 
Last edited:
Hello. I'm planning on getting into product photography (clothes, jewelry, accessories, etc...) and i've been investigating the ideal equipment. I think I know what i need but wanted to ask you for guidance anyway.

I don't have a lot of budget, so this is what i'm planning on buying:
  • 3 speedlights and a controller. (Yongnuos 560 IV and 560 tx)
Godox TT600 or Adorama rebranded one.

Adorama Flashpoint Zoom R2 Manual Flash with Integrated R2 Radio Transceiver (TT600)

Godox XPRO controller/transmitter or Flashpoint rebranded one.

Adorama Flashpoint R2 PRO 2.4GHz Transmitter for Canon (XPro-C)
  • 3 backdrops. (white, black, green)
Forget green unless you enjoy pain because trying to do green screen without spending the money for PhotoKey Pro or GreenScreen Wizard is painful.

White is generally seamless white, which is best done with a light table for smaller items. Back light the background to 1/3 stop of overexposure. Find the subject exposure, add back light until the background just starts to blink when the camera's Highlight Alert is turned on. The HA will also help you get and even overexposure.

Do NOT light the floor separately from above or below.

Position the camera so the background reflects off the shiny floor and the floor will look pure white.

Set Shop Tutorials: "Learn How To Build A Light Table" Featuring Steve Sint - YouTube

For black us a fabric like black velvet, velveteen, or Duvetyne (best of the three).

Adorama Studio Depot Duvetyne Black Light Block-Out Roll (54" x 5 Yards) PP197
  • 3 softboxes? octaboxes? umbrellas? with bracket for the flashes.
A 30" to 45" white umbrella with a black backing is your cheapest option for lighting clothing on a model or Mannequin. The size depends on the the subject but this 45" umbrella is as close to one that can be used from head shots to full length shots as you can get.

Adorama Westcott 45" Optical White Satin Umbrella, Cover - Fiberglass Frame 2016

Use paper rolls for backgrounds. Easy to use and you can tear off dirty parts and throw them away or use them as diffusers or for reflectors. Store rolls on end. Keep a damp towel at the edge of the background for the subject to wipe bare feet to keep dirt off the paper. If they are wearing shoes cover the soles with blue painter's masking tape and have them wipe the soles before stepping onto the paper.

More flexible for table photography is a the bare flash and a variety of diffusers. The diffusers can be any frame with a diffuser stretched across it. Wood artist canvas stretchers, picture frames, cardboard, PVC pipe, etc for frames. Tracing paper, translucent white nylon, Dacron or silk fabric, white plastic shower curtain, etc.

With a separate flash and diffuser you can vary the size of the diffuser by varying the distance between the two and by zooming the flash head. You can vary the softness by also changing the distance between the diffuser and subject.

You need lots of reflectors of various sizes. White plastic cardboard (Coroplast) is good. White foam core board is good. Crush aluminum foil, flatten it out, and stick it on one side of a white reflector using spray on contact cement. Mirrors are good for highlighting areas or giving you catchlights.
  • 3 light stands.
  • 1 5 in 1 reflector maybe?
Don't bother. Make what you need in the sizes you need.
  • Stands for the backdrops and some clamps.
Lots of clamps.
Right now I can't afford strobes, so that's out of the question. Also I was thinking I could use this setup for more than products.
A 300Ws strobe for $109.

Adorama Flashpoint Studio 300 Monolight with Built-in R2 Radio
Could you please tell me if I'm heading in the right direction with this list, or if I need to change/add smth? thank you!
 
  • 3 speedlights and a controller. (Yongnuos 560 IV and 560 tx)
Another vote to swap this selection for Godox TT600 ($65) speedlights and a Godox XPro transmitter ($70), instead. Pretty much the same cost. Also has built-in radio triggers that allow for remote power control.

You'll be giving up zoom control and remote wakeup in the switch, but (if you shoot Canon, Nikon, Sony, µ4/3, Fuji, or Pentax), you'll gain HSS, and entry into the Godox system.

With YN-560 gear, you're stuck with manual-only speedlights.

You can't just add Yongnuo's TTL gear (622 system or RT system) to the 560 stuff. If you try it, you either have to stack triggers, or you have to turn off the TTL/HSS capability in the TTL gear to get everything to work together. YN TTL/HSS gear only works for Canon or Nikon, and can't work for either/both (Godox TTL gear will switch between all the supported systems). And Godox has much bigger-than-speedlight options in their system; Yongnuo doesn't.

Going with Yongnuo 560 gear will pretty much dead end you in terms of future expansion, while Godox won't.
 
Right now I can't afford strobes, so that's out of the question.
For product photography, a single monoblock, with a decent modelling light, is preferable to three speedlights.
 
Just



3b5b31ccecee40b2a04f4d3e8965f0d9.jpg



46fe1207255044888882ea0c9a2e712b.jpg



All made with  the one light + reflecter method.
All made with the one light + reflecter method.
vrivr, post: 62183376, member: 1919922"]
Hello. I'm planning on getting into product photography (clothes, jewelry, accessories, etc...) and i've been investigating the ideal equipment. I think I know what i need but wanted to ask you for guidance anyway.

I don't have a lot of budget, so this is what i'm planning on buying:
  • 3 speedlights and a controller. (Yongnuos 560 IV and 560 tx)
  • 3 backdrops. (white, black, green)
  • 3 softboxes? octaboxes? umbrellas? with bracket for the flashes.
  • 3 light stands.
  • 1 5 in 1 reflector maybe?
  • Stands for the backdrops and some clamps.
Right now I can't afford strobes, so that's out of the question. Also I was thinking I could use this setup for more than products.

Could you please tell me if I'm heading in the right direction with this list, or if I need to change/add smth? thank you!
[/QUOTE]
--
Ed Shapiro

My full time "day job" is commercial photography- mainly products and photography for the food service industry.We do the occasional fashion assignment but mine is not a fashion manufacturing or importing town so we do a bit of that work for the retail trade.

If you are going to equip yourself for a wide scope of products, speedlights alone will not suffice.You will be dealing with a wide variety of surfaces, textures with many different levels of reflectivity and you will need to pre-visualize the lighting in a precise manner. There are many different lighting approaches ranging form very large soft boxes to Fresnel spotlights. To start off with, however, a simple system is advisable.

For static stationary subjects you can use electronic flash or continuous tungsten, quartz or LED lighting. I recommend electronic flash because you can use it for still life, tabletop work etc. and fashion work with models as well.

A good starting system shoud consist of a mono-light (self contained studio type electronic flash unit) equipped with a and 1,000 watt/seconds that can be powered down will enable a rage of apertures for various levels of depth of field. The unit shoud be suspended over you table or works space, overhead, on a solid counter-weighted boom stand.

The essential feature of the mono light is the modeling lamp which enables your seeing and adjusting the light to the best angle of incidence to deal with reflection and surface textures. The large soft box type ligh source will provide relatively soft even illumination.

This unit is you man ligh. Fill illumination can be provided by various white and "silver" reflectors most if which can be home-made and improvised with white Foam-Cor board and crushed and re-expanded aluminum foil.

For jewelry, mirrors, highly polished items, small appliances with "chrome" finishes, this ligh sour will work well. White Foam-Cor board or seamless background paper can be use to make TENTS when required.

Most surfaces can be well rendered with the overhead unit moves slightly to the back of the subject where a soft "drop shadow" is formed a the front of the subject. Feathering the light forward and upward toward the camera position will allow some of the beam to strike the reflector(s) and thereby providing fill light and ratio adjustment.

You can add more light to your system as you business progresses. Meanwhile, you can use your speedlights for background, kickers or accent lights. Without modeling lamps, however, guess work, experimentation and experience will have to suffice.

The mono-light can be mounted on a conventional stand and equipped with an umbrella for fashion work with live models. A speedlight or two bounced off a white ceiling or another umbrellas can provide fill illumination. At least, you wimp in the main light.

To become successful in the commercial photography field your work needs to be outstanding- a cut above the average. Nowadays, folks are doing the own online product shots with smartphone cameras with a "store-photo app".Good photo-illustration are more of a rarity so it is important for you to create an attractive and outstanding portfolio.

Seamless paper is pretty standard for "floating" products on a cyclorama type of background.You can also collect other improvised background materials such a fabric ruminants, a few yards of velvet or velveteen, burlap, textured metals, sheets of wood paneling, old barn wood planks,A few sheets of Plexiglas, tile board etc. behind and underneath and provide a seamless floating background. Colored gels can be added to to the lights ad color to the Plexiglas cyclorama.

For small pieces of jewelry, you might consider a macro lens. For perspective control and enhanced depth of field you may need a PC (tilt and shift)lens.

Equipment and the right tool for the job are important factors but most importantly are you skills in composition, lightg aesthetics, image management and let's not forget about business savvy and good financial planning. Do your market research and focus in on you market and specialties and equip accordingly.

Good luck I wish you every success in you ventures. It's hard work and it ain't for the faint of heart or the lazy photographer. 50% of commercial photography is PROBLEM SOLVING!
 

Attachments

  • 1c7313f12f3f49f3aae614083ed0d0c3.jpg
    1c7313f12f3f49f3aae614083ed0d0c3.jpg
    74 KB · Views: 0
  • dd22d754e0c542e6a3c7bae896697693.jpg
    dd22d754e0c542e6a3c7bae896697693.jpg
    251.4 KB · Views: 0
  • d07afcf40c404ba2a573cbd3a4b31524.jpg
    d07afcf40c404ba2a573cbd3a4b31524.jpg
    120.8 KB · Views: 0
  • 2fca084eab444f78a0c1f147d39c2079.jpg
    2fca084eab444f78a0c1f147d39c2079.jpg
    277.4 KB · Views: 0
Last edited:
Life for beginners doing product shooting is easier with constant lighting.

BAK
 
Ed, good to see you are still active and now posting on DPReview. I know I learned a lot from you on Photocamel. It is great to have a professional like you on this forum.

One question. Isn't 1000Ws overkill for tabletop and fashion?

I can shoot waist up portraits at ISO 100 and f/16 with my 300Ws strobes using my 40" square (1600 in²) softboxes or a 43" (40" diameter so 1260 in²) white reflection umbrella. If I had a very large (>2500 in²) softbox then I could see needing that power, but not for tabletop or waist up fashion.
 

Keyboard shortcuts

Back
Top