Lumix 12-35 on Olympus IS?

Lichtspiel

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Recently got the Lumix for my EM10ii. Never paid much attention but assumed the lens IS would not work with an Olympus camera.

So I think I was wrong, at least from what I can tell from the viewfinder.

Has anyone done tests (or good info) on whether the ILIS or Olympus IBIS are better in freezing the frames? Or both??
 
Solution
I have done some tests but they were inconclusive so far. Need to test more.

Just wondering if there is some indication that having both systems on at the same time leads to conflicts and general havoc.
The story is that with the E-M10 Mk2 and the 12-35/2.8 that you can leave IBIS switched on to any mode you need, then keep the lens OIS switch off to allow the IBIS to work.

If you need to test the OIS performance, then simply turn it on, the body firmware detects the lens switch on and automatically disables the IBIS, so there is no conflict.

Only the very old bodies (before E-PL5 in 2012) had problems. See my Timeline to sort out some of those details...
Recently got the Lumix for my EM10ii. Never paid much attention but assumed the lens IS would not work with an Olympus camera.

So I think I was wrong, at least from what I can tell from the viewfinder.

Has anyone done tests (or good info) on whether the ILIS or Olympus IBIS are better in freezing the frames? Or both??
AFAIK on Oly body you either have IBIS of EM10-II, or Lens OIS of the 12~35. There is no DUAL IS nor Syn IS be supported.

It seems that the CIPA rated Lens OIS (IIRC) of 12~35 Mk-I as published by Pany should be around 3~3.5 stops. My home testing suggested DUAL IS of this lens on GX85 should be around 5 stops. How effective the IBIS of EM10-II you might in a better position to find out.

--
Albert
 
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On my GM5 this lens worked with OIS, on my E-M1with IBIS. My non-scientific take was that IBIS worked better, but the Olympus is heavier and as such not as prone to shake. Overall i was satisfied with both systems.
 
Recently got the Lumix for my EM10ii. Never paid much attention but assumed the lens IS would not work with an Olympus camera.

So I think I was wrong, at least from what I can tell from the viewfinder.

Has anyone done tests (or good info) on whether the ILIS or Olympus IBIS are better in freezing the frames? Or both??
The rules re stabilisation of Panasonic lenses on Olympus bodies are on my page at http://homepages.ihug.com.au/~parsog/olyepl1/30-oly-stabilisation.html

The general comments are that IBIS does a better job than lens stabilisation particularly at focal lengths shorter than long tele.

Lens stabilisation cannot correct for roll about the camera axis whereas IBIS can.

Lens stabilisation is on all the time when selected, no need for half press, unlike body stabilisation where the option is to have half press stabilisation or not.

Test both and see what you like.

Regards.... Guy
 
Recently got the Lumix for my EM10ii. Never paid much attention but assumed the lens IS would not work with an Olympus camera.

So I think I was wrong, at least from what I can tell from the viewfinder.

Has anyone done tests (or good info) on whether the ILIS or Olympus IBIS are better in freezing the frames? Or both??
AFAIK on Oly body you either have IBIS of EM10-II, or Lens OIS of the 12~35. There is no DUAL IS nor Syn IS be supported.
I know there is no Dual or Sync IS, but I am not sure about the "either or". I think if you have both switched "on" that both are working, not in sync, and maybe against each other.

Reason why I would like to know is because I usually leave IS on all the time. So if a) the Lens IS is better and b) having both on leads to erratic results then I will need to remember to turn off the IBIS which then leads to forgetting to turn it back on which can ruin quite a few shots.
It seems that the CIPA rated Lens OIS (IIRC) of 12~35 Mk-I as published by Pany should be around 3~3.5 stops. My home testing suggested DUAL IS of this lens on GX85 should be around 5 stops. How effective the IBIS of EM10-II you might in a better position to find out.
Thank you for that - sounds like the lens OIS is pretty good. I can see that in the VF but not sure if its better than IBIS or not.
 
Recently got the Lumix for my EM10ii. Never paid much attention but assumed the lens IS would not work with an Olympus camera.

So I think I was wrong, at least from what I can tell from the viewfinder.

Has anyone done tests (or good info) on whether the ILIS or Olympus IBIS are better in freezing the frames? Or both??
The rules re stabilisation of Panasonic lenses on Olympus bodies are on my page at http://homepages.ihug.com.au/~parsog/olyepl1/30-oly-stabilisation.html

The general comments are that IBIS does a better job than lens stabilisation particularly at focal lengths shorter than long tele.

Lens stabilisation cannot correct for roll about the camera axis whereas IBIS can.

Lens stabilisation is on all the time when selected, no need for half press, unlike body stabilisation where the option is to have half press stabilisation or not.

Test both and see what you like.

Regards.... Guy
Thanks Guy. Can't look at your link here at work but will check it out later.

I have done some tests but they were inconclusive so far. Need to test more.

Just wondering if there is some indication that having both systems on at the same time leads to conflicts and general havoc.
 
I have done some tests but they were inconclusive so far. Need to test more.

Just wondering if there is some indication that having both systems on at the same time leads to conflicts and general havoc.
The story is that with the E-M10 Mk2 and the 12-35/2.8 that you can leave IBIS switched on to any mode you need, then keep the lens OIS switch off to allow the IBIS to work.

If you need to test the OIS performance, then simply turn it on, the body firmware detects the lens switch on and automatically disables the IBIS, so there is no conflict.

Only the very old bodies (before E-PL5 in 2012) had problems. See my Timeline to sort out some of those details http://homepages.ihug.com.au/~parsog/olyepl1/80-Oly-timeline.html and of course the Stabilisation Rules again at http://homepages.ihug.com.au/~parsog/olyepl1/30-oly-stabilisation.html

Generally folks seem to say that OIS works better for extreme tele and IBIS for everything else. Not much point in choosing OIS when under maybe 100mm, but seems to be easier for handling and framing when say at 300mm and up. The main difference being that OIS stabilises all the time, while IBIS only during exposure and optionally only during shutter half press.

Folks vary in the way they handle cameras and that strongly affects the results they get from IBIS or OIS, so only individual testing will give an idea of what to expect. Stay off coffee or limit to only a couple a day does help. :-)

I do use a mix of Panasonic and Olympus lenses on Olympus bodies and never bother using the OIS as the IBIS works so much better for me. Olympus/Samyang lenses from 7.5mm to 300mm in my case, but Panasonic with OIS available only in the range 12mm to 100mm. Maybe if I had the Panasonic 100-400mm then I may be trying OIS more seriously.

Not using OIS is no crime, but having it does expand the range of choices of bodies to buy amongst the Olympus and Panasonic range.

Like me, stuck on Olympus E-P5 and nothing from Olympus now makes sense for me but the GX9 or what follows it may be in my future to then take advantage of my OIS lenses.

Regards..... Guy
 
Solution
Great, thanks so much for the explanation. So no worries if I keep IBIS on, it will deactivate automatically if the lens OIS is on. I think that answers my question.

I will still do some comparisons between the two IS's at different FL's and perhaps report back.
 

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