A7III IBIS Doesn't Seem to Make a Difference At All???

[jameszhan]

Ever since I first picked up my A7 III back in April, I have always noticed that IBIS doesn't seem to work at all either in stills or in video.

Here are some test images I did. It's not a scientific test, but honestly I don't know how else I can test it.

Basically, I took a two photos with every shutter speed going down from 1/60th of a second (since the FL is 28mm), one with IBIS on and one without.

The images with a lens cap in them means that IBIS is on, and the images without a lens cap in them means that IBIS is off. The focus is always at the third square box that says "Converter Compatible...." Flexible spot small, AF-S. EXIF data is intact.

























































































If you examine the photos at 100% at the text box I focused at, you will notice that IBIS did not make a difference at all. In a couple of them you see a difference, but in some cases the ones without IBIS actually look less blurry than the ones with IBIS.

I also made a quick IBIS test in video:





Again, I don't see a difference with IBIS on and off at all.

Is this normal? Am I doing something wrong? I'm starting to think that my camera's IBIS may actually be broken.



--
...I also own the Voigtlander Nokton 40mm f1.2, which somehow isn't in DP's lens data bank.
Portrait photographer in Toronto, Canada

James Zhan

jameszhanphotography.myportfolio.com

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[splashy]

I think you used the wrong lens for this.

Are these cap + pictures with a tripod with IBIS on?

 

[jameszhan]

I think you used the wrong lens for this.

Are these cap + pictures with a tripod with IBIS on?

Why is it the wrong lens?

No, all handheld.

 

[splashy]

On a tele you can actually see if the IBIS is working while halfpressing the shutter.

 

[jameszhan]

On a tele you can actually see if the IBIS is working while halfpressing the shutter.

Well, it should work with a 28mm too when I'm using slow shutter speed. From the test images I did, it doesn't seem like the IBIS help with hand movement at all.

 

[splashy]

I will try it with the same lens.

 

[npires]

The benefits of stabilisation become less obvious the wider the lens. Plus also keep in mind the distance you're shooting from that box and how steady your own hands are. That's why a tele lens would be more appropriate to see if your IBIS is working. Especially focusing on an object 30+ feet away.

 

[kolyy]

If you examine the photos at 100% at the text box I focused at, you will notice that IBIS did not make a difference at all. In a couple of them you see a difference, but in some cases the ones without IBIS actually look less blurry than the ones with IBIS.

If you can take sharp pictures at 1/6s handheld, as you seem to suggest, then you don't need IBIS. But, somehow, I doubt this is the case. I tested IBIS with my Samyang 35mm F2.8 and roughly half of the pictures were sharp with IBIS

at 1/4s​

, none without it. The majority were sharp at 1/8s with IBIS. Without IBIS, I did get around the same success rate at 1/30s. This means a solid 2-3 stops of improvement.

Try the same, shoot not one, but ten images handheld. Stand, don't lean to anything. Report back

I also made a quick IBIS test in video:

I don't understand why are you moving the camera all the time. Just keep the camera straight. IBIS will smooth out the small judders, it should be noticable immediately. It will help with panning as well. It's less effective while walking, but still an improvement compared to no stabilization at all.

 

[sgkoala]

The benefits of stabilisation become less obvious the wider the lens. Plus also keep in mind the distance you're shooting from that box and how steady your own hands are. That's why a tele lens would be more appropriate to see if your IBIS is working. Especially focusing on an object 30+ feet away.

 

[jameszhan]

If you examine the photos at 100% at the text box I focused at, you will notice that IBIS did not make a difference at all. In a couple of them you see a difference, but in some cases the ones without IBIS actually look less blurry than the ones with IBIS.

If you can take sharp pictures at 1/6s handheld, as you seem to suggest, then you don't need IBIS. But, somehow, I doubt this is the case. I tested IBIS with my Samyang 35mm F2.8 and roughly half of the pictures were sharp with IBIS at 1/4s, none without it. The majority were sharp at 1/8s with IBIS. Without IBIS, I did get around the same success rate at 1/30s. This means a solid 2-3 stops of improvement.

Try the same, shoot not one, but ten images handheld. Stand, don't lean to anything. Report back

Maybe I just have steady hands or something, but I took those without leaning to anything. I held my breath and tried really hard not to move though, haha.

I will definitely try again with my 85 1.4—hopefully that's tele enough?

I also made a quick IBIS test in video:

I don't understand why are you moving the camera all the time. Just keep the camera straight. IBIS will smooth out the small judders, it should be noticable immediately. It will help with panning as well. It's less effective while walking, but still an improvement compared to no stabilization at all.

I moved the camera like that because that's how the official Sony video showcases their IBIS technology. I was simply copying what they are doing. I was trying to recreate the shakes that the IBIS is supposed to be able to stabilize.

 

[bobhp]

I am 72years old and have quite a severe tremor , I bought into the Sony system because of IBIS, believe me when I tell you it works.

 

[OFremen]

I think there's nothing unusual here. This is a great illustration of why in the Canon world people would laugh at the idea of wanting OIS on a wide lens like this. Its not very useful at wide angles. Its why we have the 1/f rule for shutter speed. You also probably have steadier hands that some people...I bet if I did it, I would see some difference as I have noticed I don't have the steadiest hands when shooting photos.

Try this with an 85mm instead. I would be really surprised if you saw no difference with that one

 

[kolyy]

If you examine the photos at 100% at the text box I focused at, you will notice that IBIS did not make a difference at all. In a couple of them you see a difference, but in some cases the ones without IBIS actually look less blurry than the ones with IBIS.

If you can take sharp pictures at 1/6s handheld, as you seem to suggest, then you don't need IBIS. But, somehow, I doubt this is the case. I tested IBIS with my Samyang 35mm F2.8 and roughly half of the pictures were sharp with IBIS at 1/4s, none without it. The majority were sharp at 1/8s with IBIS. Without IBIS, I did get around the same success rate at 1/30s. This means a solid 2-3 stops of improvement.

Try the same, shoot not one, but ten images handheld. Stand, don't lean to anything. Report back

Maybe I just have steady hands or something, but I took those without leaning to anything. I held my breath and tried really hard not to move though, haha.

Well, I still don't really believe you can do it reliably. What you need to do is to take many shots, at least ten, at the same shutter speed and then count how many of them are sharp. Do it at several shutter speeds and then you'll get an idea. Take a look at my test with my M43 camera:

Panasonic GX80 IBIS test

I will definitely try again with my 85 1.4—hopefully that's tele enough?

It is not about focal length, IBIS works at wide angles just fine. Of course, it might be interesting to see whether it works better at 28mm or 85mm, but it most certainly should have a major effect in both cases.

I also made a quick IBIS test in video:

I don't understand why are you moving the camera all the time. Just keep the camera straight. IBIS will smooth out the small judders, it should be noticable immediately. It will help with panning as well. It's less effective while walking, but still an improvement compared to no stabilization at all.

I moved the camera like that because that's how the official Sony video showcases their IBIS technology. I was simply copying what they are doing. I was trying to recreate the shakes that the IBIS is supposed to be able to stabilize

That is an illustration, look further in the video for the kind of motion it affects. It is supposed to stabilize quick random motion, not a slower and deliberate one, like you do. In no way will IBIS attempt to stabilize your wild moves. Just hold the camera steady and turn IBIS on and off. Watch the jittering go away.

 

[kolyy]

I think there's nothing unusual here. This is a great illustration of why in the Canon world people would laugh at the idea of wanting OIS on a wide lens like this. Its not very useful at wide angles. Its why we have the 1/f rule for shutter speed. You also probably have steadier hands that some people...I bet if I did it, I would see some difference as I have noticed I don't have the steadiest hands when shooting photos.

Try this with an 85mm instead. I would be really surprised if you saw no difference with that one

OIS is not very effective at wide angles, but IBIS is. 2-3 stops with the A7 III according to my test. There is nothing to laugh at. If you don't realize you can shoot at pretty slow shutter speed handheld with IBIS without needing a tripod, e.g. nights scenes, museums, cathedral interiors etc., then you have just learned something new. IBIS is really a fantastic technology for special situations, because when you need it, it really works. I use IBIS instead of a tripod for several years now, really liberating.

 

[splashy]

As you can see I had camera shake @ 1/13 and less @ 1/10 without IBIS.

With IBIS on it's not much better, as should be expected on these low shutter speeds. Maybe your structure is trembling of traffic or similar, or just camera shake even with IBIS on.

 

[JimKasson]

I think there's nothing unusual here. This is a great illustration of why in the Canon world people would laugh at the idea of wanting OIS on a wide lens like this. Its not very useful at wide angles.

I beg to differ:

Sony a7II IBIS with a 16mm lens - the last word

A reader asked if I'd test the in-body image stabilization (IBIS) on the Sony alpha 7II with a really short lens, to add to the testing I've done previously with a 180mm Apo-Telyt and the Zony 55mm FE and the Leica 28mm f/2.8 Elmarit-R. I selected the Leica 16/18/21mm f/4 Tri-Elmar, aka the...

blog.kasson.com

Jim

 

[splashy]

Right C my 1st+ 2nd answer.

It was just to show.

 

[JimKasson]

Right C my 1st+ 2nd answer.

It was just to show.

Please explain what that means and what it has to do with my point that IBIS is useful on short lenses.

Jim

 

[splashy]

It's nice to know there will always be some who know better and take the time to correct the mistakes .:-D

 

[andrewD2]

On the Leica Q (also 28mm) there is an OIS auto setting that activates on exposures longer than 1/60th second. So 1/60th is what the consider borderline useful.

Something no one mentions with respect to IS , it has to detect forces to respond, hand shake is well delt with but a smooth constant velocity sway is not. If you are standing looking down a sway pivoting at the lower back is likely, for example.

It could, of course, be broken but I'd test with a video clip with and without and at slower shutter speeds trying to eliminate sway rather than vibration.

On 42MP and 35mm even with IBIS I shoot at 1/125 or 1/250th second most of the time and I'm as steady as anyone.

Andrew