Filter System Or Circular Thread Filter For Landscape

[mhwong]

Hi All

I have Olympus EM5 Mk2 with 12-40 Pro. Recently added Pan-Leica 8-18 to my collection for landscape photos.

Will be travelling to Asia (Tokyo, HK, and Sabah) this Summer and hope to get some inexpensive filter solution for day-time landscape. I know the advantage of having a filter system, but they all add up. Adaptor Rings, holder, ND/Grad filters and C-PL etc. will cost a few hundred £££.

On the other hand screw on filters may be cheaper and simpler solution, but the lifespan will pretty much depends on what lens I am keeping.

For individual filters solution, I am thinking to get 67mm CPL and ND screw onto 8-18 (will this cause vignette?). And when using with 12-40 PRO, I can use 62mm to 67mm step ring. But worry about the vignette. Anyone has experience with these lenses?

If filter system is still the better solution, which one would you suggest? I looked at Cokin EVO and NiSi v5 Pro 100mm. I don't want something too bulky to counter-act the relative lightweight M43 setup.

Thanks.

 

[Doux Vide]

I consider grad ND being useless nowadays. You get as good (or even better) results with an exposure bracketing and a little blending in PP.

If you like very long exposures (smooth water) a ND1000 could be useful.

The only filter you can't really emulate in PP is a polarizer.

For those 2, it's much more convenient to user circular ones than a filter system IMHO.

Actually, I think that filter systems are outdated, they are part of the shooting techniques of the 20th century. Some might choose them because they like to work old school (or because they don't know how to do otherwise), but I recommend to avoid them, especially if you want to save space and money.

 

[mhwong]

Thanks for the reply.

I agree that RAW these days plus exposure bracket could get some nice results.

But for me, the ND filters are more for long exposure. Not just for water photos, but also for crowded touristy spots. Long exposure can make crowds more dramatic and less distracting in the frame. Don't think this could be solved by software and exposure bracket yet. (iPhone iOS's 'long exposure' Live Photos could be the solution, but not available in camera world just yet.) I would keen to know if software can replicate this function though. Save me money!

 

[Doux Vide]

Some Sony cameras have a feature to simulate long exposures like that (it's called "smooth water" but it should work with people too).

Anyway as I said, you buy a CPL and a ND1000, it doesn't take a lot of space and you can easily find good yet inexpensive ones (for instance I use w-tianya xs-pro1 digital cpl)...

 

[Jamster007]

Hi. I occasionally use a CPL on my 12-40 without any problems with vignetting, though it is tricky to see the effect with an Electronic view finder. This means in practice that you’ll also need to watch the exposure settings change as you turn it.

Like you, I didn’t want to spend a small fortune on a filter system, and was also put off my the size. I use Gobe lens filter caps to pack them as small as possible in a filter stack.

Jamie

 

[Mark Thornton]

Anyway as I said, you buy a CPL and a ND1000, it doesn't take a lot of space and you

Depending on how many different thread sizes you need to cover. I have 37mm, 46mm and 52mm.

 

[Sujiar]

My Hoya HMC CPL lives on my 12-40 and I highly recommend one for reducing glare off water and leaves and generally adding punch to skies and clouds. I have a step-down ring for my 9-18. No vignetting on that until I stack my NDX8 and if I'm careful with the composition both can still work.

A CPL on anything wider than 12 can be problematic with uneven darkening of clear skies. It can be stacked with the ND to add even more to long exposures.

 

[LMNCT]

I solved that problem years ago by purchasing the largest size filter that I expected to use and then adding step down conversion rings. Cheap and easy to carry.

 

[MickeyVee]

Going through a similar thought process and doing some research, here's what I ended up with and am purchasing the last item. This will cover off Oly 12-100 {72mm}, PL 12-60 {62mm} and PL 8-18 {67mm}...

Al items are Breakthrough Photography except the step rings...

• 72mm Circ Pol
• 72mm 6 Stop ND
• 3 Stop Soft Grad 100x150 + x100 Holder + 72mm Ring {next purchase}
• 72-67 step down ring {for PL8-18} & 72-62 Step down ring {for PL12-60}

Should cover off pretty much most cases for landscape photography.. no vignetting that I have seen so far but haven't tried all three stacked..

 

[mhwong]

Thank you all for the input.

I now kind of leaning towards 1x CPL and a NDx variable thread filter instead of system.

I am considering GOBE filters for the cost/perf. ratio. I wonder if I should get both CPL and NDx at 67mm {for PL 8-18 and step ring to fit Oly 12-40} or a large mm with step ring to avoid vignetting (e.g. 77mm glass with 67=>77 step ring) thoughts?

Also, should I just get NDx rather than both, coz it is likely to be 2 Polariser stacking up?

 

[Doux Vide]

Thank you all for the input.

I now kind of leaning towards 1x CPL and a NDx variable thread filter instead of system.

IMHO, avoid variable ND. They all produce non-homogeneous color casts. There was a hype about them some years ago but today I don't know any serious photographer who still use them...

I am considering GOBE filters for the cost/perf. ratio.

Very good. I own a couple of these and am very satisfied.

I wonder if I should get both CPL and NDx at 67mm {for PL 8-18 and step ring to fit Oly 12-40} or a large mm with step ring to avoid vignetting (e.g. 77mm glass with 67=>77 step ring) thoughts?

From my experience (which includes the 12-40), getting a larger filter isn't really useful unless you stack them. But stacking filters is something I don't recommend unless in some very special conditions. So I'd take 67mm.

Also, should I just get NDx rather than both, coz it is likely to be 2 Polariser stacking up?

Better forget the variable ND...

 

[Mark Thornton]

For stills you don't really need a variable ND. Consider a 3 stop to allow use of lenses wide open in sunlight (may not be needed if your camera offers 1/16000 shutter), and a 10 stop for long exposure effects. Some might want an extra 6 stop to stack with the 10 stop for really long exposures.

Mark

 

[Chris666666]

I agree that variable NDs are to be avoided. The problem with circular filters is that you can't use ND grads and these can be some of the most useful for landscapes and seascapes. You will need a rectangular system for these.

There are advantages to rectangular systems beyond ND Grads. Once mounted it is very quick to slide filters in and out - much quicker than having to keep screwing circular filters on and off.

 

[Doux Vide]

I agree that variable NDs are to be avoided. The problem with circular filters is that you can't use ND grads and these can be some of the most useful for landscapes and seascapes. You will need a rectangular system for these.

ND grads were useful in the film-era... Pretty useless nowadays as long as you know how to use a digital camera and some minimal PP...

There are advantages to rectangular systems beyond ND Grads. Once mounted it is very quick to slide filters in and out - much quicker than having to keep screwing circular filters on and off.

Agree on this, even if I hardly see situations where I would like to slide filters in and out, perhaps some people do.

 

[pocoloco]

I have a Lee like filter system and use screw in filters. The Lee like gathers dust. In yhe end, the screw in I find easier to use. Less bulky as well. But I guess this is very subjective.

I have several 77mm filters, polarizer, 10 stopper, nd grads. I use step up rings, even from 46mm to 77mm.

The smaller the lens diameter, the less likely vignetting will ocur. Even if stacked.

Don't rely on post to emulate filters. It is always better to get it right in camera.

 

[Chris666666]

I agree that variable NDs are to be avoided. The problem with circular filters is that you can't use ND grads and these can be some of the most useful for landscapes and seascapes. You will need a rectangular system for these.

ND grads were useful in the film-era... Pretty useless nowadays as long as you know how to use a digital camera and some minimal PP...

Well there seem to be 2 types of photography these days

- Some of us still go out with a camera and try to take a photograph which is as good as our skills and equipment allow us to take.

- Others go out and take a photograph, load it onto a PC and then modify it to show what they would like the photograph to look like.

I would suggest that to be successful in the former you need photography skills, whereas in the latter you need PC skills.