Cheap Wide Angle Conversion Lens hack theory.

Invanovich22

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As you might know all Wide Angle Conversion Lenses that not very expensive have round area in the center of photo (black circle) that is in focus, edges outside of it are blurred out.

By default at widest angle of your camera (red rectangle) you see that outside of black circle everything is blurred out.

Fact, after zooming-in camera optics (green rectangle) to the area of conversion lens that is good quality entire picture will be in focus properly, however obviously desired wide angle effect is lost.

My theory, if i have 40.5mm mounting thread on your optics then if i buy 40.5 mm wide angle lens and get problem with edges being out of focus, but if i get bigger 82mm wide angle adapter and mount on 40.5mm lens then i will be closer to center of the lens without zooming in because lens is oversized.

Have someone tried this what are results?

f4c715c4cffc406ebcc54c9c2554aef9.jpg
 
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That won't work, the issue is the optical design not simply the size of the mounting thread.
 
When i attach 52mm wide angle adapter to cell phone camera it works fine described no blur.

Why 82mm adapter won't work with DSLR?
 
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Quick test that shows little difference between 52 and 72mm for same brand Xit Pro however still unacceptable, i and 82mm Vivitar cost $250 which is big difference that i am sure is not worth it.



Original Nex5-T 16mm
Original Nex5-T 16mm



Xit Pro 52mm
Xit Pro 52mm



Xit Pro 72mm
Xit Pro 72mm



Vivitar HD4 72mm
Vivitar HD4 72mm
 

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Xit Pro for $18 has better detail than Vivitar HD4 for $30 also i ordered 2 vivitar's by mistake and both had optics lose one i tightened by hand however other one was sideways against thread and not possible to adjust.

Original 16mm, range about 3-4 feet
Original 16mm, range about 3-4 feet

Xit 52mm
Xit 52mm

Xit 72mm
Xit 72mm

Vivitar HD4 72mm
Vivitar HD4 72mm

Vivitar HD4 72mm - lose optics
Vivitar HD4 72mm - lose optics
 
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Original Downsized to match Xit Pro 72mm
Original Downsized to match Xit Pro 72mm

Xit Pro 72mm crop + transform
Xit Pro 72mm crop + transform
 
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Wide angle converters come from an earlier era of photography - the time of fixed lens cameras with 40-55mm "standard" lenses in 35mm film format.

Used in that setting - the results can be very good - especially if you optimise lens quality by stopping down to the mid-range aperture (usually close to to F8) and photographing distant objects such as landscapes.

The problem today is that we try to use these on lenses that are already wide-angle - hoping to create an ultra-wide angle lens on the cheap - and here they vignette and distort badly.

Making a good ultra-wide angle lens requires very advanced optics - with high density and aspheric glass and often floating position lens elements that move separately as you focus closer. All that costs a lot - such that you need to pay many 100s of £ or $ to begin to get any reasonable quality.

The cheap option is to put your kit lens in vertical format and shoot 3-5 frames overlapping by 33% and fuse into a panorama with software. Anything else for a stills photographer gets expensive - and there are only 2 solutions
[1] buy an expensive "rectilinear" ultra-wideangle (<24mm in 35mm film format) lens
[2] buy a "fisheye" lens and convert to a rectilinear with your photo-processing software

Fisheye lenses are a simpler optical engineering solution - in that they do not need high density and aspheric glass and often floating position lens elements. This means that often good pictures can be got with £100/$125 generic lens brand products from 7-Artisans, Samyang etc...

For video shooters - the loss in quality with a moderate strength conversion lens may be acceptable for "You Tube" type uses - but those converters are often expensive - as a hint theses often increase the angle of view by only about 20% and have very large diameter front lens elements. Olympus sold several to go with film cameras that had a maximum of 35mm wide zoom lenses - but these sold for >100 £/$ when new - so expect to pay a bit even when bought on auction sites.

There are some modern examples at mid price - I got one from a manufacturer called OPTEKA that is good for 6x4 prints and video - but these are hard to track down even on large selling sites such as Amazon. Even then - for best quality stop down and be prepared to correct barrel distortion in software afterwards.

After tying all the solutions I have settled on the following two options for getting "ultrawide" images for my M4/3 cameras.

[1] panorama pictures using Panorama Stitcher Mini (free from most app stores for a version that will do 5 images or less)

[2] the £90/$110 priced 7-Artisans 7.5mm F2.8 lens for M4/3 and corrected using DXO software

When I get rich I would get the Panasonic Lumix G Vario 7-14mm f4.0 (current price >£700/>$800 in 2020) !
 
Wide angle converters come from an earlier era of photography - the time of fixed lens cameras with 40-55mm "standard" lenses in 35mm film format.
First party manufacturers offer wide angle converters today for their current lenses. Sony offers 4 such converters for E-mount. The Sony FE 2/28 has a sensor to detect the converters allowing it to send the proper lens profile to the camera. The Sony converters also work on lenses there are not designated for.

There may be many reasons why third party converters don't work well, but photography era is not one.
 
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The cheap option is to put your kit lens in vertical format and shoot 3-5 frames overlapping by 33% and fuse into a panorama with software. Anything else for a stills photographer gets expensive - and there are only 2 solutions
[1] buy an expensive "rectilinear" ultra-wideangle (<24mm in 35mm film format) lens
[2] buy a "fisheye" lens and convert to a rectilinear with your photo-processing software

Fisheye lenses are a simpler optical engineering solution - in that they do not need high density and aspheric glass and often floating position lens elements. This means that often good pictures can be got with £100/$125 generic lens brand products from 7-Artisans, Samyang etc...
I agree. Very often wide angle scenes are such that they avail themselves well, if not better, to panoramas. Perhaps I'm influenced by being in the west, but wide long panos have been a thing because of the mountains and terrain since before cameras. Once one gets good at the basic creation (and boy is software good at stitching), one can move on to some basic compositing in Ps and the ability to move or ameliorate artifacts and moving bits that interfere. And if you've already got decent software, this "hack" is free. And indeed often the resolution and sharpness of good panos are superior to single shots made with even very very good UWA lenses.

Furthermore, given the distortion etc mentioned by PC UK query whether your smartphone, esp one with good computational photography, does a better job. When I've got say a 50mm prime on my camera I often switch to an iPhone when say in church or large-interior building.

And software can help a lot with defishing those relatively inexpensive fisheyes. Still some soft on the side though.
 
First party manufacturers offer wide angle converters today for their current lenses. Sony offers 4 such converters for E-mount. The Sony FE 2/28 has a sensor to detect the converters allowing it to send the proper lens profile to the camera. The Sony converters also work on lenses there are not designated for.

There may be many reasons why third party converters don't work well, but photography era is not one.
Yes - this is a good point: There are camera makers that produce "matched" multipliers for telephoto and wide adapters - usually for specific lenses. This is often to make a very expensive camera or lens more "valuable" to a user. Fuji springs to mind as a current example with several options while Panasonic have a moderate wide-angle adapter for the 14mm M4/3 lens.

Olympus had a series of well made but heavy conversion lenses made for the era when they abandoned film SLRs with interchangeable lenses and made the first "bridge" cameras for 35mm film - in cooperation with Ricoh (now Pentax). Those often have 55 or 58mm filter threads, and are often found on eBay.

This thread is on wide angles - but I will just mention that some of those moderate telephoto converters in the Olympus TCON 1.3-1.5x range are excellent; for example turning the Lumix 25mm F1.7 M4/3 "standard " lens into a moderate fast telephoto for portrait work, as it still keeps its wide F1.7 aperture. In that setting, soft edges is part of the appeal for shallow depth of field portraits. At the 70mm equiv. kit zoom setting most lenses will be at F5.6. However, the inexpensive olympus 42.5mm for M4/3 is just so wonderful, and not too expensive second hand - that my advise is to save u and buy that (or the very good hard to find Chinese Yi 42.5mm F1.8 AF lens for M4/3, at 1/3 the price)

Panasonic and Sony made adapter lenses for their digital bridge cameras that are good - but are often heavy and cost £/$100s. The uniform factor is that these were matched to cameras with zooms that went no wider than 35mm equivalent - and the conversion lenses took them to 28mm equiv. Using them on cameras already reaching 28mm wide takes them beyond their design specification - with loss of image quality. Many of these lenses are huge and heavy - so beware !

I have read widely on the topic, and looked at a lot of websites and videos as well as tried conversion lenses out for myself. The conclusion looks to me to be:

[1] matched multipliers and wide conversion lenses are near uniformly excellent
- when paired with the lens and camera for which they were designed for - but they are often expensive and heavy and typically are only matched to moderate wide-angle parent lenses
[2] "generic" wide converters are near uniformly poor when used on wide angles at 28mm full frame equivalent or wider - they distort and have soft edges with chromatic aberration - a combination of faults that is very hard to fix in software.
[3] moderate conversion lenses (x0.7 or lower strength) with multiple lenses and a big difference in front filter to back filter sizes are good for video work where the soft corners are not the key subject matter. This is even more so when you switch to a "letterbox" format such as 16x9 or wider. I have an "opteka" brand example that is 52mm rear thread and 72mm front, also sold under lots of different brand names today on the web. For still photos taken stopped down to f8, with barrel distortion corrected they can be just OK - but I have never good a "good enough" image for a 10x12' print from them. But - for "vloggers" shooting web-standard video they can be a "Best Buy".
[4] stronger wide converters such as the widely advertised x0.45 models (with 10x macro) are a uniform disaster when applied to an already wide-angle lens. They distort and vignette such that they are unusable. However, as an experiment, I found them to be "just OK" on standard 50mm equiv. length lenses. However, every camera system sells a cheap "kit zoom" that covers the 28-70mm equivalent range - and these are optically way ahead.

I would love to "find" a perfect conversion lens - one that took a 28mm wide kit zoom to a 18mm equivalent rectilinear equivalent perspective that weighs 100g, costs £/$50 or less and fits in my pocket and does not distort. However - when you look at the design spec' for such "ultrawide' rectilinear lenses, they typically have 15 or more lens elements, with many having costly high density glass, are very bulky and cost >>£/$500, you know that a cheap lightweight conversion lens from eBay or Amazon just cannot compete - it is just physics.

So this is why my advice for still shooters is to learn how to do panorama shots, or get a fisheye and learn how to "defuse" the image. Every other good solution is either very expensive or sacrifices too much in image quality to be worthwhile.
 
Cheap teleconversion lenses

I know this is about wide angle conversion lenses - but just a pointer to the opposite impact of "teleconversion lenses".


As the original post mentioned - unless an optically matched pair of lenses are used there tends to be a big fall in image quality at the edges of the image. These lenses tend to be expensive at >$100/£100. Fuji and Panasonic make some good ones.

However this works to your advantage when trying to get a fast-aperture portrait lens "on the cheap". I have tried several tele conversion lenses with strengths from x1.4 to 2.0 added to fast 50mm lenses (or the 25mm fast AF lenses on micro 4/3).

With a 1.4X lens on the Lumix 25mm F1.7 I get the equivalent of an F1.7 70mm with AF. This is an excellent set up for portraits in a small area - such as our homes. It gives a pleasing perspective and great bokeh. Softer edges work great for portraits.

My experiments show that:
[1] the larger the front lens element of the converter the greater the sharp central zone.

[2] the larger the front element the better the performance at wide-open apertures and the lower the chance of vignetting.

[3] all telephoto lenses tend to pincushion distortion, just like wide-angles tend to barrel distortion. With geometric backgrounds, be ready to fix this in post-processing. To correct this in-lens explains the weight and ost of top-spec fast telephotos.

[4] beware - some conversion lenses have the filter thread set too close to the rear lens. I have fixed this in one case by adding a 49mm filter with the glass taken out between the main and conversion lens as a "spacer".

So try out the bigger and heavier conversion lenses if you want to shoot at wide apertures. The best I have tried have 72mm or 75mm diameter front elements and 46mm or 49mm rear filter threads. All have at least 3 internal lens elements. All cost a lot origionally when made for 1980s high-spec video cameras. This is why this only works on an internally focusing prime lens as the weight of a good converter with a lens that moves in and out risks damaging the lens motor or zoom mechanism.

After trying 4 different tele-conversion lenses - I now have the equivqlent of a fast AF of 70mm F1.7 spec that works great on a micro 4/3 and takes fantastic portraits (Lumix 25mm F1.7 + Sony VCL1446 converter = 2 x 25 x 1.4 lens = 70mm F1.7 equivalent in 35mm terms) . Outdoors I use a 72mm filter size telephoto lens hood to stop lateral light causing veiling flare.I only ever use it wide open at F1.7 or F2.0. Beyond that - I may as well use a kit zoom.

If absolute quality of the image is needed, then the Lumix 14-42mm kit lens is optically very good at F5.6 and when shot in JPEG mode, automatically corrects any lens distortions.

Of course, the expensive solution is to get the Lumix or Olympus 42mm fast AF lenses - but where is the fun in that? Sometimes, being challenged in photography works to spur creativity - when adapting what you already have can be "good enough" for many of us!
 

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