3rd party flashes compatible with RC mode on Olympus E-M10II

[Werner Gansz]

I've searched the forum and there are lots of variants of this question but none that I've found quite gets me a definitive answer.

I'm looking to shoot closeups and macros with the camera in one hand and the flash in the other using the Oly's built-in flash as the optical trigger in RC mode. I don't need lots of power, the flash is close to the subject and to the camera. Ideally I would like to use non-rechargeable batteries since they don't drain when not in use. I would rather not add a radio trigger so I am hoping that the flash has true RC compatibility.

Thank you for your help

 

[Albert Valentino]

As far as I know there are no third party flashes that can be triggered from the camera flash , so you will need something like an Olympus 600r flash. They go for about $200 plus Used and $300 new.

I am planning on doing similar to what you describe and was about to get the 600r but after some research I picked up a Godox TT350o flash for about $85. The flash has both Manual control and TTL which in my early tests worked perfectly, even flash exposure comp can be comtrolled on the flash or the camera itself. It only requires two AA batteries instead of the usual four. I picked up a set of four high power AA rechargable batteries from Amazon which work great https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00HZV9TGS/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o01_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

To fire the flash off camera I still need to pick up the Godox X1T-O for about $47

Amazon.com

All in all this solution costs far less than picking up an Olympus flash and the flash itself gets rave r views - check out youtube videoa

 

[Guy Parsons]

I've searched the forum and there are lots of variants of this question but none that I've found quite gets me a definitive answer.

I'm looking to shoot closeups and macros with the camera in one hand and the flash in the other using the Oly's built-in flash as the optical trigger in RC mode. I don't need lots of power, the flash is close to the subject and to the camera.

For that purpose (macro/closeups) I bought 2 of the little Oly FL-300R flashes, that way I know everything works. One on Group A and the other on B so I can vary the ratio between them via the RC menu in the camera.

Other solutions are third party flashes that have S1/S2 slave modes and use the camera with

Ideally I would like to use non-rechargeable batteries since they don't drain when not in use.

It seems the Ikea batteries are the best bang for buck https://www.dpreview.com/videos/863...ries-beat-panasonic-eneloop-pro-recycle-speed

I've long used Eneloop batteries and they are definitely always ready to go even a year since last charge. They seem to retain maybe 75% of charge after a year, and I've never had one leak like those usually tragic alkaline batteries do.

The Eneloops definitely recycle the flash faster than the alkalines. The Ikea ones better still it seems.

I would rather not add a radio trigger so I am hoping that the flash has true RC compatibility.

Otherwise it's 2.4GHz radio where a number of other problems are solved, think Nissin or Godox systems for that. The radio method for closeups does not have the master flash on the camera possibly causing lighting problems.

If the flash is always close to the camera then a wired setup makes more sense, the Canon flash extender cable works as it has pins in all the right places, then there's no need for RC mode at all.

Regards..... Guy

 

[enossified]

These third party flashes have RC. All work as slaves, a few will work as masters as well.

Metz: 26AF-2, 44AF-2, 52AF-2, 64AF-2, 76-MZ5

Nissin: i40, i60a

Ironically, all except the 26AF-2 cost more than an Olympus FL600R!

 

[Werner Gansz]

Thank you both for your answers. I just found a FL-300R on Ebay for $75. The seller has a 100% rating and claims it's new / open box. It's worth a shot: If it;s gray market, it will go in the trash if it breaks. The E-M10II manual (and Guy) say that it is compatible with RC mode. It's nice and small and should be easy to manage.

Guy, did you find any light modifiers to fit the 300R? I used to use a Flashbender on a Nikon flash that I used the same way, flash in one hand and DSLR in the other, but it was a bit awkward.

 

[Guy Parsons]

Thank you both for your answers. I just found a FL-300R on Ebay for $75. The seller has a 100% rating and claims it's new / open box. It's worth a shot: If it;s gray market, it will go in the trash if it breaks. The E-M10II manual (and Guy) say that it is compatible with RC mode. It's nice and small and should be easy to manage.

Yes, RC mode works fine but the features that the FL-300R lack are Auto mode (where the flash itself detects reflected light) or High Speed Sync mode. Otherwise I find that it works well as TTL RC mode and always carry one as my emergency on-camera flash, but rarely use flash anyway.

Always Eneloops AAA size and they stay alive for ages, they are always ready. Every few months I do a routine re-charge whether used or not.

Naturally it is a small flash and once the limits are found then think about raising the ISO to 400 or even 800 to make it "bigger".

Guy, did you find any light modifiers to fit the 300R? I used to use a Flashbender on a Nikon flash that I used the same way, flash in one hand and DSLR in the other, but it was a bit awkward.

No modifiers tried so far. The flash itself has a little slider built in that diffuses the flash for a wider coverage. I would use some scrap white plastic if needing modifiers/reflectors.

Some inspirational macro work from macromeds is here and about 1/4 way down the long page shows some flash modifiers https://beingmark.com/macro-illustrated/

Regards...... Guy

 

[Werner Gansz]

Thanks for that link, Guy. It looks like it's scissors and duck tape time. He does beautiful work.

 

[Guy Parsons]

Thanks for that link, Guy. It looks like it's scissors and duck tape time.

Yes, anything is possible with that.

He does beautiful work.

No argument there, plus, do you notice his apertures? He happily works at f/16 or whatever and ignores the notion of diffraction. It seems to work nicely as I've not seen more consistent and nicer insect macro work.

Regards..... Guy

 

[Torsten Hoff]

I know of at least one vendor -- Metz has some flashes that support RC mode.

I owned one very briefly a few years ago, unfortunately it died after just a few actuations (less than a dozen), and Manfrotto (the importer/distributor for Metz in the USA) didn't have any replacements, so the flash was returned and I replaced it with a FL-50R.

 

[Paulmorgan]

I've searched the forum and there are lots of variants of this question but none that I've found quite gets me a definitive answer.

I'm looking to shoot closeups and macros with the camera in one hand and the flash in the other using the Oly's built-in flash as the optical trigger in RC mode. I don't need lots of power, the flash is close to the subject and to the camera. Ideally I would like to use non-rechargeable batteries since they don't drain when not in use. I would rather not add a radio trigger so I am hoping that the flash has true RC compatibility.

Thank you for your help

--
Werner
http://wernergvt.tumblr.com/

Personally I would just attach a lead if your going to be using the flash close to the camera, its far more reliable than the RC system (especially outdoors) saves camera battery power and its dead simple to set up and use with no diving into menu`s.

I always carry a lead in my bag, even if I will be using the RC control for handy backup just in case.

 

[Werner Gansz]

Thanks for the idea. I've used Nikon's equivalent to RC for years and never had an issue even outdoors. I'll see how it goes with the 300R.

 

[Peter 1745]

Guy, did you find any light modifiers to fit the 300R? I used to use a Flashbender on a Nikon flash that I used the same way, flash in one hand and DSLR in the other, but it was a bit awkward.

I use a pair of FL-300R flashes I bought second hand for macro work. Due to their shape I have never found a satifactory way to attach my Flashbender to it. If you find a way let me know.

Instead I made some diffusers from cut down liquid soap bottles. These spread and soften the light. To soften it further I insert a 5mm thick pad of foam packing material into it.

In the photos note how the glare on the wooden worksurface is softened by the diffuser and softened further by the foam pad.

I used adhesive velcro strips to attach the diffuser to the back of the flash.




Bare flash and plastic diffuser






Plastic diffuser with foam insert (left) and plastic diffuser on its own (right).








Doner soap bottle and DIY diffusers showing cutdown for controls and velcro attachment. The foam diffuser, which slots between the front of the flash and the plastic diffuser, is also shown.





--
Regards,
Peter
'Keep taking the photos'

 

[Werner Gansz]

That is very cool. Thanks for the ideas and the pics.

 

[Paulmorgan]

Thanks for the idea. I've used Nikon's equivalent to RC for years and never had an issue even outdoors. I'll see how it goes with the 300R.

 

[Paulmorgan]

Thank you both for your answers. I just found a FL-300R on Ebay for $75. The seller has a 100% rating and claims it's new / open box. It's worth a shot: If it;s gray market, it will go in the trash if it breaks. The E-M10II manual (and Guy) say that it is compatible with RC mode. It's nice and small and should be easy to manage.

Guy, did you find any light modifiers to fit the 300R? I used to use a Flashbender on a Nikon flash that I used the same way, flash in one hand and DSLR in the other, but it was a bit awkward.

--
Werner
http://wernergvt.tumblr.com/

Yes big flash units and flash benders can be it bit cumbersome although they do work well.



For macro your will probably be better off with a smaller flash and a cheap 5 in 1 reflector for shadow fill.

Amazon.co.uk : 5 in 1 reflector

 

[Werner Gansz]

Thanks for your two recent posts, Paul. I read the article on RC flash. I guess I'm surprised that even with a full size flash the RC success rate isn't great but I've never tried using the Nikon system at "normal" model shoot distances outside so I don't have a reference to his testing. I'll see what happens with the 300R.

I see you have a cable connection to the flash in the picture above. Does the process still work the same way with the cable, ie, pre-flashes and automatic exposure set by the camera?

 

[Ken Croft]

As far as I know there are no third party flashes that can be triggered from the camera flash , so you will need something like an Olympus 600r flash. They go for about $200 plus Used and $300 new.

I am planning on doing similar to what you describe and was about to get the 600r but after some research I picked up a Godox TT350o flash for about $85. The flash has both Manual control and TTL which in my early tests worked perfectly, even flash exposure comp can be comtrolled on the flash or the camera itself. It only requires two AA batteries instead of the usual four. I picked up a set of four high power AA rechargable batteries from Amazon which work great https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00HZV9TGS/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o01_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

To fire the flash off camera I still need to pick up the Godox X1T-O for about $47

https://www.amazon.com/Godox-Wirele...rd_wg=aCuDX&psc=1&refRID=DRQJKV50GR8PMPPVRNWB

All in all this solution costs far less than picking up an Olympus flash and the flash itself gets rave r views - check out youtube videoa

--
If you don't get older and wiser, than you just get older.

My Yongnuo YN560 IV flashes are triggered by the little hot shoe mounted flash of my Oly M1/1. They are not ttl flashes however.

Ken C

 

[Paulmorgan]

Thanks for your two recent posts, Paul. I read the article on RC flash. I guess I'm surprised that even with a full size flash the RC success rate isn't great but I've never tried using the Nikon system at "normal" model shoot distances outside so I don't have a reference to his testing. I'll see what happens with the 300R.

I see you have a cable connection to the flash in the picture above. Does the process still work the same way with the cable, ie, pre-flashes and automatic exposure set by the camera?

 

[Guy Parsons]

Thanks for your two recent posts, Paul. I read the article on RC flash. I guess I'm surprised that even with a full size flash the RC success rate isn't great but I've never tried using the Nikon system at "normal" model shoot distances outside so I don't have a reference to his testing. I'll see what happens with the 300R.

High ambient light can cause problems, but up close with macro and where the flash "sees" the RC control flashes bouncing off the subject should be OK.

I see you have a cable connection to the flash in the picture above. Does the process still work the same way with the cable, ie, pre-flashes and automatic exposure set by the camera?

A flash extender cable solves all problems, they are usually short curly cords and (guess) would only stretch out less than a metre. Olympus makes one at great expense but Canon ones probably are less expensive, Canon has all the contacts in the right places. Some cheapo Canon clone cables may give problems.

With the extender cable all the usual TTL signals are handled safely and reliably, no need to use RC mode then.

As well as a real Olympus cable for TTL I do have some old Nikon flash extender cables. Using the Nikon ones on Olympus I only get the trigger signal and no TTL signals to control the flash. That's OK if I use Nikon flashes (or Olympus flashes) and I set the flash power or flash self-auto mode.

Reminder again, the FL-300R does not have a self-auto mode or power settings controllable on the body. But if used with the flash extender cable works just as it would in the hot-shoe with TTL or body controlled power settings.

Aside: That's a thought for a test, I could tape off all hot-shoe contacts, mount an RC flash in the hot-shoe, and use my E-P5 pop-up to RC control the flash and see how it behaves when it needs to rely on the RC control flashes being bounced off the subject at various distances and in various lighting. Just an idea for a test, may not happen.

Regards..... Guy

 

[Guy Parsons]

Aside: That's a thought for a test, I could tape off all hot-shoe contacts, mount an RC flash in the hot-shoe, and use my E-P5 pop-up to RC control the flash and see how it behaves when it needs to rely on the RC control flashes being bounced off the subject at various distances and in various lighting. Just an idea for a test, may not happen.

Well, it did happen.

Inside at room distances and the isolated FL-300R in the hot-shoe worked fine as RC TTL mode, working from the command pulses bounced back off the subjects.

Went outside in the sunlight and with full bright afternoon sun beaming directly onto the flash and camera front the RC bounce back failed as I moved further than about 600mm from the subject, closer than 600mm and the control signal bounce back worked fine.

When I angled the camera and flash about 45 degrees or more away from the direct sun, still shining on the front, the RC TTL worked fine. Tested aimed at items from closeup to about 2 metres away.

I've always found RC with the FL-300R good, as it seems to work around corners as well, seems not so critical about direct line of sight from master to slave. That works well because the FL-300R body does not twist, the control signal window always faces the subject.

Regards...... Guy