PL 100-400 vs Sigma 150-600

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Is it worth the extra 200mm if you already own a 100-400? Will it yield any better result than cropping the 100-400 @ 400mm? I am hopeful that there are either some users of both, or users of the Sigma 150-600 that can speak to its capability at 600mm. In comparison, I am very pleased with the performance of the 1000-400.
 
Is it worth the extra 200mm if you already own a 100-400? Will it yield any better result than cropping the 100-400 @ 400mm? I am hopeful that there are either some users of both, or users of the Sigma 150-600 that can speak to its capability at 600mm. In comparison, I am very pleased with the performance of the 1000-400.
 
Is it worth the extra 200mm if you already own a 100-400? Will it yield any better result than cropping the 100-400 @ 400mm? I am hopeful that there are either some users of both, or users of the Sigma 150-600 that can speak to its capability at 600mm. In comparison, I am very pleased with the performance of the 1000-400.

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http://www.greinerstudio.com
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Olympus O-MD E-M1 ii
Panasonic Leica 12-60 f/2.8-4
Olympus 60 f/2.8 macro
Olympus Pro 40-150 f/2.8
Pansonic Leica 100-400 f/4-6.3
Olympus 300mm f/2.8
I used the sigma 150-600 C via a metabones smart T on my EM-1 and it was a superb match and value for money.

If it hadn't been for the fact the weight was too much for me to hand-hold (I'm old and decrepit) I would probably have kept it to run alongside my 40-150 pro

As it is, I went for the 100-400 which is the best compromise between price, weight and performance for my use

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I agree with Brian. I had the Tamron 150-600mm G2 and this was one of the main reasons for jumping to M4/3. Plus I am also very old and decrepit, maybe even older than the other Bryan/Brian :-)

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Bryan
Box-Brownie and other stuff.
Still looking for a digital back for my Box Brownie.
 
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Is it worth the extra 200mm if you already own a 100-400? Will it yield any better result than cropping the 100-400 @ 400mm? I am hopeful that there are either some users of both, or users of the Sigma 150-600 that can speak to its capability at 600mm. In comparison, I am very pleased with the performance of the 1000-400.

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Then why not? But if you lose AF and OIS, will it be worth it (I don't know which lens version or adapters you have, so I don't know if you will lose either or both).

I would find it too unwieldy to traipse through the woods with, personally, so for me I would say not. But, if that doesn't bother you and you use a tripod anyway, then why not?

-J
 
I would simply crop the 100-400mm images, or as I do use the DTC to get a resampled 2X center crop that allows you to compose in camera. I get a 200-800mm equivalent FOV without losing exposure speed -- and it produces very sharp results.

Example:



16b02b113ef74de68e890a1e737d368d.jpg



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God Bless,
Greg
www.imagismphotos.com
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It's 2022 now so it's an old thread.

I cannot compare the PL100-400 to the Sigma 150-600 but can to the olde Sigma 50-500 "for Olympus" - that's The Bigma, the original one for Olympus 4/3 not MFT. Which I've had for years, and despite its problems in use is far better than the unremarkable Pany 100-300. So it has to use an active adapter, as you can for Canon EF but not Nikon fit.

The old lens does not have OIS but will control aperture and AF although it makes a noise like a coffee grinder, old tech. But it has stunning glass, and weighs a ton. I always want the tripod because it is long and heavy and cannot be hand-held steadily.

The Sigma 150-600 weighs about 2kg, the PL100-400 weighs about half that. The old Bigma is slightly lighter than the 150-600 Contemporary at 1.8kg. Yes they're very good glass and longer than the Leica but not as easy to use. If push comes to shove I've got an 800mm reflex and X2 tele somewhere

With the PL100-400 you have to ask which camera. On the G9 we get Dual2 stabilisation. That lets it not only be hand-held (bearing in mind it's equivalent to "800mm") but you can wave it about. Which is of great use framing the shot, not so much for using a slow shutter as it's probably in use for wildlife and the perishing things insist on moving. Other Lumix also support Dual-IS and Dual2 but not quite up to the level of the G9. Imo the pairing of PL100-400 and G9 is a wildlife photographer's dream.

With Olympus it gets complicated. Their Sync-IS only works with very few of their Pro lenses. But there is a little known patent pending Olympus "Dual Image Stabilisation", Which is not Sync-IS but part and part, and is present on the E-M5ii (and I'm guessing E-M1) - it works with Lumix lenses that have an OIS switch. Turn the lens OIS switch ON. In the menu turn the "Use Lens IS" OFF. You can hear both the IBIS and Lens-OIS motors running. It is not up to Dual-IS performance but is better than IBIS alone. If the lens has no OIS switch the Olympus camera will turn the OIS off.

I use both flavours of MFT. Imo Olympus IBIS is a little better than Panasonic Body -IS alone with lightweight lenses, but not Dual-IS. And certainly not with the heavier long lenses the do want Lens-OIS. From what I've seen of it Sync-IS is not up to Dual-IS, possibly because lens stabilisation is quite a new thing for Olympus but old hat to Panasonic.
 
I don't think that the Sigma is known for its sharpness; see: https://photographylife.com/reviews/sigma-150-600mm-f5-6-3-dg-os-hsm-c

The additional 200mm reach is hard to argue against, though!
I have this lense and I don't see as big drop in sharpness at 600 as the above review implies. The opticallimits.com review below seems closer to my experience.

https://www.opticallimits.com/canon_eos_ff/1009-sigma150600f563c?start=1
Yeah the Sigmae are very good glass but like all zoom lenses (and I have more than a few), they want pulling back a trifle from the extremes.

The 150-600 is a X4 zoom but like all extra-long zoom the wide end is for finding the subject, and collapsing it for storage. The PL100-400 is like that too, it's more like a X3 zoom. And the Bigma 50-500 should not be thought of as a X10, the wide end is mushy, you're not going to use it for 50mm. The Bigma, PL100-400, G100-300, G45-200, etc, all want nudging back a trifle. And all of them except maybe the Leica want the aperture clicked shut a notch from full open; I think maybe Leica design their lenses for wider and then reduce the maximum aperture from what it could have been.

A X3 zoom is always going to be better than a X10 super-zoom but the longer they are the better they can build a zoom range into them. An ultra-wide zoom is probably best limited to X2.
 

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